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No matter how often I tighten the jubilee clips around the cooling system hoses (and the ones to the calorifier) I still get what looks like cooling fluid on the floor the engine compartment.its coloured like anti freeze so can only assume its water from the cooling system. Would the hoses expand when hot and loosen the clips? Anyone else experienced this?

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Check you have the right size clips. If you use one that's too big then it will not form a nice circle. Can you tell which hose is leaking? if your not sure which hose may be leaking then run the engine till the thermostat cuts in (the point where hot engine water starts to circulate around the calorifier) Turn off the engine then see if you can find any leaks. Leaks could also be old stiff or cracked hoses.

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Are the hoses going on to proper hose tails or just stubs of plain pipe, if the latter then they will probably always leak no matter what and then one day blow off with a cloud of steam, guess how I know.

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Are the hoses going on to proper hose tails or just stubs of plain pipe, if the latter then they will probably always leak no matter what and then one day blow off with a cloud of steam, guess how I know.

Exactly what happened to a boat we helped recently. I did notice that the pipe had gone rather soft at the end, where it appeared to have been lying in bilge water/oil. I do find that double clips are better on plain stubs, and the boat in question had just single ones.

I have wondered if plain stubs would perform better with a ring of mig weld around them?

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I have wondered if plain stubs would perform better with a ring of mig weld around them?

 

Probably, yes.

 

It would then be similar to the hose connections on engines etc.

 

Of course there would have to be enough space to get the worm drive clamp in the correct position.

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I have wondered if plain stubs would perform better with a ring of mig weld around them?

 

Probably, yes.

 

It would then be similar to the hose connections on engines etc.

 

Of course there would have to be enough space to get the worm drive clamp in the correct position.

Prettymuch how I see it. The stubs onmy tank are fairly long, so a ring of mig weld near the outer end should leave enough space for the two jubille clips. Perhaps when I renew the hoses I will consider same.

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If there is enough room on a plain stub an olive squeezed on near the end can be done by using a brass compression fitting. Pop the nut over the stub, then the olive, then screw the fitting on, any fitting will do ie straight coupling, T, elbow. Tighten right up to squeeze the olive on tight and undo the fitting cutting of the trapped nut with a hacksaw, angle grinder. Fit hose with a couple of clips behind the olive.

  • Greenie 1
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If there is enough room on a plain stub an olive squeezed on near the end can be done by using a brass compression fitting. Pop the nut over the stub, then the olive, then screw the fitting on, any fitting will do ie straight coupling, T, elbow. Tighten right up to squeeze the olive on tight and undo the fitting cutting of the trapped nut with a hacksaw, angle grinder. Fit hose with a couple of clips behind the olive.

Sounds like a neat solution, without needing to weld. :)

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If all else fails, a smear of Fernox LSX jointing compound on the male stub may help to seal any tiny leaks, but wait an hour for it to set or it may slip off under pressure.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Interesting idea. I used Blue Hylomar yesterday on a frustrating coolant leak. Sealed so far but early days.

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