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Looking on the internet I found a couple ideas but not a real solution. Image two, multiple connections for large lugs and smaller connections for voltmeters/ammeters the problem with that is the post connection. Image three is technically viable (so I believe), I can put one or two lugs on the terminal, pin down the extension with the lugs and the nut then put the remainder of the wires onto the additional threaded connection, the real problem is that I cannot find a UK/European supplier.

 

I guess the correct solution would be to install high current bus bars, I am a little resistant to this idea as this would mean making big changes to the wiring and the battery box.

 

 

Terms2.jpg

 

Many thanks,

 

Scott

however is defiantly not ideal as the post height (below the screw thread) is not full height. This leads me to my question, can anyone recommend a solution to my problem?

How about getting a piece of chucky copper or brass strip, (lets say 20mm x 8mm 40mm) Drilling a hole in it to fit the stud on your battery, along with two other holes for stainless bolts for your extra lugs - and create you own 'mini busbar' on the battery?

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I got the batteries installed without shocking myself or blowing any equipment.

 

One thing I had not considered when buying the batteries was the terminal height, on one of the positive and negative connections I had three lug connections which was too tall for the nut to grip the thread. Thankfully I had a number of post to thread connections but they needed opening out to fit around the larger/wider post bottoms (see image 1.), this however is defiantly not ideal as the post height (below the screw thread) is not full height. This leads me to my question, can anyone recommend a solution to my problem?

 

Looking on the internet I found a couple ideas but not a real solution. Image two, multiple connections for large lugs and smaller connections for voltmeters/ammeters the problem with that is the post connection. Image three is technically viable (so I believe), I can put one or two lugs on the terminal, pin down the extension with the lugs and the nut then put the remainder of the wires onto the additional threaded connection, the real problem is that I cannot find a UK/European supplier.

 

I guess the correct solution would be to install high current bus bars, I am a little resistant to this idea as this would mean making big changes to the wiring and the battery box.

 

 

Terms2.jpg

 

Many thanks,

 

Scott

I had the same problem with Trojans but managed to limit the connectors to 2 per terminal by a slightly sub-optimal arrangement.

 

Although I think G&F's idea is a good one, for a "posh" solution how about a blue seas terminal fuse at least for the +ve? I don't have this so I don't know how long the stud is, but it looks longer than the one on the battery. Also has the advantage of providing a mains fuse and not increasing the area of bare +ve metal (short circuit risk):

 

http://www.foxsmarineandcountry.com/products/blue-seas-systems-single-terminal-fuse-block-bs5191?utm_source=googlepla&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CIyc7KCCiL8CFa2WtAod4mMACw

 

There's a drawing here giving dimensions: http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/dimensioned_drawing/5191.jpg

Edited by nicknorman
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How about getting a piece of chucky copper or brass strip, (lets say 20mm x 8mm 40mm) Drilling a hole in it to fit the stud on your battery, along with two other holes for stainless bolts for your extra lugs - and create you own 'mini busbar' on the battery?

 

That's a pretty simple idea, and I like it. I could buy a long bus bar and chop it in half so I've got all the right nuts and bolts too. My only thought, is that I really don't know what sort of size to get as they all come with different Amp ratings.

 

 

 

I had the same problem with Trojans but managed to limit the connectors to 2 per terminal by a slightly sub-optimal arrangement.

 

Although I think G&F's idea is a good one, for a "posh" solution how about a blue seas terminal fuse at least for the +ve? I don't have this so I don't know how long the stud is, but it looks longer than the one on the battery. Also has the advantage of providing a mains fuse and not increasing the area of bare +ve metal (short circuit risk):

 

http://www.foxsmarineandcountry.com/products/blue-seas-systems-single-terminal-fuse-block-bs5191?utm_source=googlepla&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CIyc7KCCiL8CFa2WtAod4mMACw

 

I had a look at those but wasn't sure about the negative terminal

Edited by swmenzies
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That's a pretty simple idea, and I like it. I could buy a long bus bar and chop it in half so I've got all the right nuts and bolts too.

 

I had a look at those but wasn't sure about the negative terminal

If you like the idea of the copper bar then I would go for that - much cheaper! Just be careful not to allow the cables to put excessive force on the battery post with the extra leverage that a bar will bring, and I would insulate as much of the +ve bar as possible with heatshrink or at least tape.

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With 4x 6V, why are more than 2 terminals needed on a post?

 

Would have thought 1 link to the parallel batt, plus one going onto the loads etc would do.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

 

You'll need to use 3 on two of the posts of course. Then you may have the neutral to the starter battery, so that makes it 4 on that one connector.

 

Edit: Ignore me, I was thinking on my setup - I have 2 banks of 4 6 volts linked together to balance.

Edited by Robbo
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Three connections on the negative side: Parallel connection, starter negative and theoretical earth.

Three connections on the postive side: Parallel Connection, Inverter and 12v isolator. That now seems odd to have the inverter separate from the isolator, though the inverter does have a 'hard' on/off switch. Need to think about that.

 

I asked a question to my electrician friend and was handed 9inches of 5x25mm copper rod. Fantastic!

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Three connections on the negative side: Parallel connection, starter negative and theoretical earth.

Three connections on the postive side: Parallel Connection, Inverter and 12v isolator. That now seems odd to have the inverter separate from the isolator, though the inverter does have a 'hard' on/off switch. Need to think about that.

 

I asked a question to my electrician friend and was handed 9inches of 5x25mm copper rod. Fantastic!

I had exactly the same problem since our inverter (combi) doesn't go through the isolator. This is I think to allow the combi to charge the batteries whilst the isolator is off. It is OK for the BSC provided it is fused, which of course it is. In the end I put the inverter on the opposite diagonals which will make those of a sensitive disposition squeak, but in reality is of no consequence.

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Three connections on the negative side: Parallel connection, starter negative and theoretical earth.

Three connections on the postive side: Parallel Connection, Inverter and 12v isolator. That now seems odd to have the inverter separate from the isolator, though the inverter does have a 'hard' on/off switch. Need to think about that.

 

I asked a question to my electrician friend and was handed 9inches of 5x25mm copper rod. Fantastic!

 

OK does the inverter have a fuse like a mega fuse in the positive feed near the battery? (which it should really..!)

 

If so, you could daisy chain a feed for the domestic bank isolator from the batt side of the inverter fuse. Or if this is a bit tricky layout wise, alternatively daisy chain the inverter fuse feed off the batt side of the domestic bank isolator, but ideally give the most direct connection to whichever takes the most current.

 

Similarly for the negative side, if the hull earth stud can be located near the batts, consider connecting the domestic batt bank and starter batt returns to the stud, then put the return connections for the engine, inverter etc on the same stud. OK it's not ideal, but if you add a shunt for an ammeter later on it'll allow things to be rejigged more easily.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

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That's a pretty simple idea, and I like it. I could buy a long bus bar and chop it in half so I've got all the right nuts and bolts too. My only thought, is that I really don't know what sort of size to get as they all come with different Amp ratings.

 

 

 

 

I had a look at those but wasn't sure about the negative terminal

One option (do you have the victron combi) would be to use the DC link option, basically two bus bars, mega fuses and a shunt on one nice box.

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