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28V dynamo I/D please


jake_crew

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Can anyone supply a makers name and spec for this unit.

 

I beleive its ex-land rover.

 

The only other markings are " 9R01 CMC EL 9767 ".

 

Also help with the meaning of the connection labels B1+, B2+ and WL.

 

Thanks

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Edited by jake_crew
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It's a Land Rover military alternator that was fitted to the 24V 88" & 109" FFR (fitted for radio) Land Rovers. It works using an external electro mechanical regulator to provide 24V. There is a way to connect it to get mains power from it (not sure if its 110 or 240V). Not sure of who the maker is. I know a few people who might know and I can ask them when I'm over at Solihull next week.

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Ex MoD CAV AC90. The ex MoD clue is in Assembly Record Card and the Modification Plate. Google the FV number and there are a load of hits.

 

Service manual: apra.org/Membership/Divisions/ELDivWebsite/Books/AlternatorServiceManual/CAV_ASM.pdf

 

N

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The mains output set up was only fitted to the FV430 series of vehicles as far as I remember, it was achived by changing various plugs over on the regulator box's in the drivers compartment, I seem to recall it produced 440 volts but I may be wrong, it was 30 years ago!

All the tools that could be used with the system were removed from service when I used to use vehicles with it because it was lethal!

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I've got a nice big upright chair, welding cables and a wet sponge to lend out.

 

I'm sure you could get some consultancy work in the good ole USA, Bizz. Recently they seem to have rather lost the knack of despatching people effectively. You could show them how to check all the connections, spray on some of that magic juice you have, and use a proper switch which won't burn out the contactors when the governor says Go! Not forgetting the self-amalgamating tape of course.

 

It's just like fixing an Eberspacher, really.

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Jake-crew, when I said this stuff was lethal I wasn't joking, the first line of the user instructions was to insert the earth spike into the ground attach it to the vehicle and pour a jerrycan of water over the spike to ensure a good earth. This stuff doesn't shock you, it just kills you.

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I'm sure you could get some consultancy work in the good ole USA, Bizz. Recently they seem to have rather lost the knack of despatching people effectively. You could show them how to check all the connections, spray on some of that magic juice you have, and use a proper switch which won't burn out the contactors when the governor says Go! Not forgetting the self-amalgamating tape of course.

 

It's just like fixing an Eberspacher, really.

I believe your right, having watched the film (The green mile) and how the prison in the state of whatever it was performed an execution with an electric chair on some poor bloke. It was quite a good film though really but spoiled as usual by bits of US sillyness. Tom Hanks is a good all round actor though.

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Thanks all, CWDF scores again !

 

Chalky - if you get any info about generating higher voltages I'd be very interested.

 

I'll ask around however I think that everyone involved in this has probably retired by now. One of my colleagues had one of these in his 101 forward control and I remember him having to adjust the regulator to avoid it cooking batteries. He sold the 101 about 10 years ago but he might know. The other one has built a number of strangerovers and might know something. All of the drawings and specs would have gone over to the museum at Gaydon by now since we've not used these for years.

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Higher voltages- The usual issue is that generators for low voltages (12 - 28 etc) usually need to produce DC in the end for battery type systems, so it matters not what rotational speed they have as the AC generated soon becomes DC. If you need AC then the rotational speed is critical to most appliances, 50Hz usually needs 3000 or 1500 or 750 RPM. At low speeds electricity generation is poorer. Some appliances get their speeds from the mains frequency so the rotational speed must be stable.

 

Machine Mart usually have a few mains voltage alternators, but these will need a steady speed drive which goes against using the main propulsion engine.

 

ALSO alternators used for supplying DC ultimately, have a polyphase winding and output, which helps produce a smoother DC. For good AC to UK standards this needs to be single phase for preference.

 

Probably on a boat a big DC supply fed into an inverter is a good idea -and it keeps all the mains voltages inside the box.

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