Which Switch? 12v light switches

[Arducius]

Hi all, I have spent the weekend fitting lights in the living areas of my boat, ready to be wired up once they're all in position. However I have so far been unable to find a 12v switch that looks like a normal light switch.

 

So my question to the good people of the forum: Can I use a standard mains (240v) light switch wired up to the lights?

 

In my googling I have seen people say that you should down-rate the switch by 50% to be on the safe side, so a switch rated at 10 amps with 240v AC should be considered ok for 5 amps with 12v DC.

 

I have also seen people mention the contacts becoming corroded in the switch is used with DC and others say this should be fine.

 

Also will this cause an issue for BSS? I will trawl through the documentation but if someone says "no, you cannot do this" it'll save me a lot of time!

 

If I shouldn't use a standard light switch, does anyone know where I can get 12v switches that look like normal ones you'd find in a house?

 

Thanks in advance!

[Ex- Member]

We've had standard 240v switches fitted for 9 years now, there's never been a problem or failed switch, that also goes for the 12v shower pump which is also a 240v switch.

[nicknorman]

Yes you can use normal house light switches for 12v, preferably with some de rating. If you have used LED lighting then the currents will be small anyway. If you haven't used LED lighting then WHY NOT! (Insert smiley). No BSS issues. Personally I would say that household light switches look pig ugly on boats and you should get something nicer, but that is just my personal taste!

[john6767]

Ours is all std mains switches for the lights, no problem and our boat is 9 years old too.

[ditchcrawler]

We've had standard 240v switches fitted for 9 years now, there's never been a problem or failed switch, that also goes for the 12v shower pump which is also a 240v switch.

Ours have been in use 12 years next month and not had one fail yet. I also use a standard lighting switch for the shower pump. We don't live aboard so its equal to 5 years continuous daily use. The shower switch will have done a minimum of 6000 operations.

 

Edit for spelling cause if its wrong the info is suspect, see alarms and cameras

Edited April 13, 2014 by ditchcrawler

[smileypete]

For something smaller than a standard switch, have a look for 'architrave switches' and the matching pattress boxes for surface mounting, Screwfix and Toolstation (cheaper) do them:

 

 

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/d190/sd2633/p35496/

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/d190/sd2634/p83684

 

Quite easy to conceal under the gunnel.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited April 13, 2014 by smileypete

[Phil Ambrose]

Our boat is 23 years old and has normal 240v switches from original, no problems

Phil

[Arducius]

Excellent. I'll go for "normal" switches then. And yes, LEDs used throughout!

 

Thanks for all the replies.

[ditchcrawler]

I fitted LEDs into some of my switches so you can locate them in the dark. just drilled a tiny hole through the cover to fit the LED behind.

[Ex- Member]

For something smaller than a standard switch, have a look for 'architrave switches' and the matching pattress boxes for surface mounting, Screwfix and Toolstation (cheaper) do them:

 

 

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/d190/sd2633/p35496/

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/d190/sd2634/p83684

 

Quite easy to conceal under the gunnel.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

 

We do have one of those for the 12v TV nice wee switches. I could only get them in White a pack of 3 from e-bay, so spray painted the TV one black.

 

All the other switches are Chrome. We originally bought ours from Screwfix, after purchasing the first lot though, Screwfix then annoyingly discontinued the range.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/x4-Double-Switched-Socket-2-gang-13-amp-in-Polished-Chrome-New-with-fixings-/321372674878?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Electrical_Fittings_MJ&hash=item4ad34ddb3e

 

We ended up buying some similar Chrome sockets. Then one day visiting Lidl hey presto, the original design sockets we chose were all available at a pretty cheap price. So we ended up with all matching, quite a fluke!

[BEngo]

The Toolstation and Screwfix own-brand ones are built to their price. The professionals use Crabtree day-to-day or MK for a ritzy job. They are more expensive but you do get what you pay for.

 

N

[Phil Ambrose]

I fitted LEDs into some of my switches so you can locate them in the dark. just drilled a tiny hole through the cover to fit the LED behind.

That, Brian, is a brilliant idea and one to go in my note book of things to do.

Phil

[bizzard]

But surely if the light is on the switch must be on, why would you need a pilot light in the switch to tell you its on.

Unless its for if the bulb blows.

Edited April 15, 2014 by bizzard

[by'eck]

Yes you can use normal house light switches for 12v, preferably with some de rating. If you have used LED lighting then the currents will be small anyway. If you haven't used LED lighting then WHY NOT! (Insert smiley). No BSS issues. Personally I would say that household light switches look pig ugly on boats and you should get something nicer, but that is just my personal taste!

 

And to add to your dislike of household AC switches is the fact that when used with extremely low current DC fed LED lights the contacts don't seem to have enough self cleaning action to always provide a good circuit. This results in the lights glowing dimly occasionally until the switch is operated a few times.

[bizzard]

I too think that domestic light switch look ugly on narrow boats, too big and out of proportion. More in proportion on wide beam boats though.

[Phil Ambrose]

But surely if the light is on the switch must be on, why would you need a pilot light in the switch to tell you its on.

Unless its for if the bulb blows.

Only guessing Biz but I reckon the LED is permanently on

Phil

[nicknorman]

Only guessing Biz but I reckon the LED is permanently on

Phil

Or it could be fitted across the switch contacts so that it is on only when the switch is off. As an aid to finding the switch in the dark that is. Edited April 15, 2014 by nicknorman

[bizzard]

Sounds like a terrible waste of electricity to me and more to go wrong. Surely in a boat which is quite a small area one would know precisely by feel exactly where they are.

I suggest a lot of practice, creeping around blindfolded feeling about for them in the dark, bare footed, stubbing your toes on things to get yourselves properly acquainted with their exact positions and after a bit you should be able to plonk your finger straight on them without feeling about or for the need for pilot lights to guide you to their location. A bit like blind mans bluff.

[Phil Ambrose]

Sounds like a terrible waste of electricity to me and more to go wrong. Surely in a boat which is quite a small area one would know precisely by feel exactly where they are.

I suggest a lot of practice, creeping around blindfolded feeling about for them in the dark, bare footed, stubbing your toes on things to get yourselves properly acquainted with their exact positions and after a bit you should be able to plonk your finger straight on them without feeling about or for the need for pilot lights to guide you to their location. A bit like blind mans bluff.

I like it, nocturnal orienteering.

(LED's only consume milliamps)

Phil

[bizzard]

I like it, nocturnal orienteering.

(LED's only consume milliamps)

Phil

 

I like it, nocturnal orienteering.

(LED's only consume milliamps)

Phil

Yes but some folk have millions of em and they can all adds up to another battery'sworth.

[ditchcrawler]

The Toolstation and Screwfix own-brand ones are built to their price. The professionals use Crabtree day-to-day or MK for a ritzy job. They are more expensive but you do get what you pay for.

 

N

When I was on the tools we always rated MK stuff followed by Crabtree. Its good to know some things don't change

But surely if the light is on the switch must be on, why would you need a pilot light in the switch to tell you its on.

Unless its for if the bulb blows.

So I can find the switch in the dark to turn it on.

 

And to add to your dislike of household AC switches is the fact that when used with extremely low current DC fed LED lights the contacts don't seem to have enough self cleaning action to always provide a good circuit. This results in the lights glowing dimly occasionally until the switch is operated a few times.

And over what period of time have you observed that happening.

[sueb]

We got our switches from a caravan shop. A much better choice

[FadeToScarlet]

We used miniature dolly switches..... Designed for dolls houses! They take up to 500mA, but each only has one 100mA LED on it.

 

I've got so e genuine Bakelite switches to fit once they've been cleaned up properly, they're brilliant bits of kit and were a great find.

[John V]

I've got so e genuine Bakelite switches to fit once they've been cleaned up properly, they're brilliant bits of kit and were a great find.

 

If you hunt around there are some brilliant switches esp at boat jumbles / bootsales on Sabina H the nav light switches are 1940's brass and ceramic with an air ministry stamp on the side, they were in original boxes marked "save this carton for war salvage" they came from a militaria salvage yard and cost £1.00 each......the engine room light switches are lovely brass rotary switches, that I bought at a bootsale. The seller claimed they were from the Ark Royal .

 

edit for 'orrible grammar

Edited April 19, 2014 by John V

[nicknorman]

If you hunt around there are some brilliant switches esp at boat jumbles / bootsales on Sabina H the nav light switches are 1940's brass and ceramic with an air ministry stamp on the side, they were in original boxes marked "save this carton for war salvage" they came from a militaria salvage yard and cost £1.00 each......the engine room light switches are lovely brass rotary switches, that I bought at a bootsale. The seller claimed they were from the Ark Royal .

 

edit for 'orrible grammar

Dull dull dull. On our boat some of the switches are on a radio keyfob, so that sends a secure coded radio signal to the receiver, which operates a relay that send a signal to the aft Empirbus node, which interpreted by a microprocessor which then sends via CANBUS an instruction to the relevant node's microprocessor to bias the appropriate MOSFET on, so that the relevant circuit is powered up, and Lo, the light comes on. Now that's what I call proper switching!