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Hello all

Just installing my Morco, is there a specific height from the top of the Morco to the ceiling as I cannot seem to find it in the manual

Thanks .-)

Its a matter of the flue pipe needing to be about 18'' or so long, whether this 18'' is inside the boat with the heater unit fixed low down or sticking up from the roof outside with the heater at normal height in the boat is up to you.

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I would say they tend to work best, and with best chance of "drawing" well, and passing a spill test, if the flue is as long as possible.

 

Personally even if using the official Morco flue on the outside, I would still try to use the full length of a standard Morco internal flue on the inside.

From memory, by the time it has passed through roof ling and roof, and into the external fluing arrangements, there will still be about a foot visible inside the cabin.

 

This however can bring the bottom of the Morco quite low, which may be inconvenient if it sits over a cupboard or work surface, but I would still say leave the standard flue as long as circumstances permit.

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From memory, by the time it has passed through roof ling and roof, and into the external fluing arrangements, there will still be about a foot visible inside the cabin.

 

 

Something fishy about this statement?

 

N

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With all the pipe work and a backboiler taken into account, does anyone know the rough measurement from the cabin wall to, say, the front edge of the stove (squirrel 1410)? I'm trying to calculate the quarry tiles for the hearth!

 

The stove's going into a right-angled corner, hopefully to face out diagonally, so a measurement taken from the cabin corner to the front of the stove would be even better, if someone also has this set-up?

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With all the pipe work and a backboiler taken into account, does anyone know the rough measurement from the cabin wall to, say, the front edge of the stove (squirrel 1410)? I'm trying to calculate the quarry tiles for the hearth!

 

The stove's going into a right-angled corner, hopefully to face out diagonally, so a measurement taken from the cabin corner to the front of the stove would be even better, if someone also has this set-up?

This is the usual quoted source of info on the topic, looks like 225mm in front and 150mm at the sides.

K

http://www.soliftec.com/Boat%20Stoves%201-page.pdf

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This is the usual quoted source of info on the topic, looks like 225mm in front and 150mm at the sides.

K

http://www.soliftec.com/Boat%20Stoves%201-page.pdf

Many thanks, Kevin, but it's the physical 'extra' space required for an added back boiler and the associated pipe work (and bends to get it away down the wall) I was after. Mine will hopefully be a diagonal fit (facing out into the space) into a corner, though not sure of the possibility re space?
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  • 3 months later...

If anyone could advise me on another aspect of this issue your wealth of expertise would be greatly appreciated.

 

I'm about to drill a bloody big hole in my roof and I really don't want to be having a second go.

 

The distructions for my new Morco D61-B suggest a minimum distance from flue terminal to fixed ventilator or open window.

They recommend a minimum distance of 300mm from flue terminal to fixed vent or open window.

Should I interpret this to mean "top" of flue terminal or "wall" of flue terminal or is it centre to centre?

I know the easiest thing to do would be to site the thing as far away from any opening as possible but as this is an aftermarket retro fit I have other internal factors to take into consideration.

 

I am now receptive to your mubblings.

 

In advance I thankyou.

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If anyone could advise me on another aspect of this issue your wealth of expertise would be greatly appreciated.

 

I'm about to drill a bloody big hole in my roof and I really don't want to be having a second go.

 

The distructions for my new Morco D61-B suggest a minimum distance from flue terminal to fixed ventilator or open window.

They recommend a minimum distance of 300mm from flue terminal to fixed vent or open window.

Should I interpret this to mean "top" of flue terminal or "wall" of flue terminal or is it centre to centre?

I know the easiest thing to do would be to site the thing as far away from any opening as possible but as this is an aftermarket retro fit I have other internal factors to take into consideration.

 

I am now receptive to your mubblings.

 

In advance I thankyou.

 

 

I'd say from the wall of the flue tube sideways to the first bit of the vent grill. Given the range of ways the MI can be interpreted, you need to be conservative to avoid potential disputes with the next BSS inspector.

 

Personally I'm surprised the distance is stated as 600mm as in a house. The point of a decent separation distance is to prevent it's exhaust gas being drawn back into the boat in adverse wind conditions.

 

 

MtB

P.S. There is no maximum dimension, so perhaps fitting a new air vent somewhere else might be easier, provided it is not beyond an internal door.

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Hi

 

i shall follow this thread carefully as i ve got to get the same thing installed in the next few weeks so i hope i m not hijacking but can i ask a few questions as i ve read previous threads & just seem to be unable to pin down the best practice & like Jodans Gang its a retro fit .

Is the following true or false :

1) distance from top of morco to top of external flue is 600 mm

2 ) water going in is from the cold pipework

3 ) hot coming out is plumbed into the existing hot water pipwork & then i must fit a tap / valve to isolate the calorifier ?

4 ) Then i get a gas safe guy with the relevant endorsements to work on boats to run 12 " of pipe work to connect to the existing gas pipe that feeds my oven & hob ? OR is it that you complete the entire installation including connection to gas & have it TESTED by a gas safe engineer before use , OR either .

All my hot taps - bathroom sink , shower & kitchen are within 8 foot of where the Morco would go ( kitchen bulkhead ) so a morco could be ideal & theyre low tech reliable heaters which is what i need & once i ve ironed out these issues i ll order the bits .

Jodans gang - can i request humbly that you report back how you got on ? i d be very interested to hear how you found fitting it & plumbing it .

Thanks

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Chubby man don't do it.

After baking in the sun all afternoon I'm about 2mm off a 102mm hole through 6mm steel.

It's doing my bleeding cracker in.

I was just going to re-route my current hot water supply from calorifier through said boiler and pick up taps supply after morco. That is to say run the current hot water system through it.

Chances are that's all we'll ever use but if the mains 240v hot water was ever needed again, over and above gas, I figured I'd just allow the hot water to pass through the morco.

Christ only knows if it'll work and if it doesn't then I've been pratting about all afternoon with a crap drill and no doughnuts for nought.

I'll keep you posted.

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Jodans gang

 

Hang in there ! It ll be worth it i m sure . Only thing is im 99% certain that ive read in previous posts that the water going in to the morco must come from the cold side of your plumbing & not the hot ? & that you then fit a 3 way valve ..... somewhere (?) to " select " hot from morco " or " hot from calorifier " .

My roofs 4 mm so hopefully less of a struggle but i ll be interested to hear the outcome . How are you going about connecting it to the gas supply ?? I ve spoken to a gas safe engineer with boat endorsements etc & the word " illegal " came up & " may affect future BSSC inspections .... " so i think he s reluctant to take the job on of connecting it .

Are you having to replace existing gas pipework or just " T , ing " into the existing run ?

like i say i d be keen to hear how you got on & make you you ve a few cold ' uns for when youre done

cheers

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No problems squire.

I shall be carrying out my own gas work and I'm not too keen on messing about with diverter valves and the like. Water passing through the cylinder will be cold anyway as we shan't be using electric. When/if we do run 240v the hot must surely just run round the morco and back out?

I'll keep you posted.

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A mate of mine who did all the central heating at his home is coming over to help me fit the morco so i ll see how he feels about connecting to the gas pipes .... maybe . Then get a suitably qualified bod to check the work & conduct the

 

necessary tests to confirm if its as it should be .

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Ideally you need to have the work commissioned but we have a bubble tester fitted so that's half the battle. Providing the installation takes into account all the necessary requirements as suggested by morco then the rest should be easy.

It helps if you're qualified to work on such installations, which I also am.

I'll keep you posted.

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Common way to switch between Morco and calorifer is with an 'L' port valve to select between calorifier and heater outlet.

 

I wouldn't feed the Morco with hot water at all, risk of scalding plus the diaphragm, seals etc before the HE may not be designed to take it.

 

Any gas supply pipe must be adequately sized depending on length etc, the heaters don't exactly give a wonderful shower in winter and need all the gas they can get.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited by smileypete
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Cheers ,

 

These " necessary requirements " - are they listed on paperwork that comes with the heater ? My plan , if anything so vaguely half arsed could be described as such , is to install it myself - as in secure to bulkhead , fit flue , connect to plumbing & then get a gas man to connect it to the existing gas pipes that are about 12" below the location of the morco .

The gas guy i spoke to seems uncertain of the " rules " & is talking of it affecting my next bss in 4 years time .

He s also talking of potentially replacing the existing run of gas pipe that goes from my gas locker to the shut off valves for my hob & stove . I thought you just T 'd into the existing pipes . I recently had a new BSS so i think i might call him to ask how any of this affects my safety cert .

Looking forward to hearing how you got on .

cheers again

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Find out the existing pipe dia, length, number of elbows, to the cooker, pass this info on the the gas bod. Then work out the extra length and number of elbows needed for Morco, pass this on too.

 

Also would help to have any details from the cooker like the model number and anything off the nameplate on the side/back/wherever.

 

The gas bod should be able to work it all out, the MI for the Morco won't cover this unfortunately. mellow.png

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited by smileypete
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Cheers again

 

I spoke to a fully registered boat gas safe chap & he s going to give me a quote for doing the whole job so i ' ll see what the price is & take it from there . I started looking into this & a backboiler system cos my eber had failed again but its working fine now ... i can hear it ticking away as i type !

 

But i don t feel confident about it for wintertime & i think that spending the money on hot water & central heating is a worthwhile modification . I had considered recently the idea of selling the boat & getting something slightly smaller but i ve decided against it & once some of these alterations are paid for i m definately keeping it ..... even if it drives me bonkers on a regular basis !

cheers

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Chubby, just an update on the morco fit. This evening I managed to cut through the roof. Having started the hole late Sunday afternoon and not bothering yesterday the best advice I can give is make sure you've got a. Lots of time. b. A good drill. c. A good cutter. And d. Cutting compound and ear plugs.

It's been a right sod.

I've filed, cleaned and painted the hole and I've also stuck on and sealed the roof plate with sickaflex. This was done after much measuring and faffing about.

Soon(ish), (hopefully), I'll mount the boiler 25mm off the bulkhead using a hardwood frame surface clad in aluminium. This is for fire/heat protection but you must remember to add the 25mm onto the measurement off the wall when you're marking up for the hole through the roof.

My gas supply off the regulator is in 10mm and I'll continue this all the way round to the boiler although a reducer is needed as the appliance comes standard with a 15mm compression coupling.

I will also have to cut another fixed roof vent (mushroom) in at some point as we'll need to increase our ventilation with the addition of another gas appliance.

I just went for it with the hole and I was lucky.

Having drilled through both outer and inner skin in one hit I didn't know what was between the layers. I know it's stupid but as I say I was lucky. 2 or 3mm nearer to the bulkhead and I'd have clipped a main roof support.

All in all, so far I'm well pleased and I'll keep you posted as I go.

Bye for now.

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This you must be very carefully to measure up and ensure that your not going to drill into roof beams, edge angle, wiring or any plumbing. If you have another opening like a roof vent nearby to where you want to cut a large hole, remove its grill and poke with wire rods, mirror and torch in all directions in the roof space checking for adequate clearance for your hole. When you've decided on the spot x mark the ceiling. Then with a long say 6mm pilot drill bit drill held perfectly vertically ''unless for some reason you need to angle it'', perfectly vertically straight up through the ceiling panel and out through the steel roof. This will ensure that the flue pipe will fit perfectly through through both ceiling and roof holes with a perfect clearance gap all around. Then with your large hole cutter with the same size pilot bit as the first drill the ceiling hole upwards . Then with same cutter with pilot bit or whatever size you want drill down from on top of the roof. If you haven't an ultra slow speed powerful drill and wish to jig saw the roof hole the pilot hole can be used as the central pivot point for a compass or peg string and pencil to scribe a guide circle.

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Soon(ish), (hopefully), I'll mount the boiler 25mm off the bulkhead using a hardwood frame surface clad in aluminium. This is for fire/heat protection but you must remember to add the 25mm onto the measurement off the wall when you're marking up for the hole through the roof.

I have been wondering about this as I have a morco boiler to mount soon. Is a 25mm deep (creating a 25mm air gap) hardwood frame suitable for the BSS? Does the BSS care that the sheet metal will conduct the heat to the hardwood producing a potential fire hazard, or is hardwood deemed fire resistant enough for this purpose?

 

Also, how do you size the sheet metal, does it need to be a certain amount larger than the appliance or can it simply be the same size as the appliances footprint on the wall?

 

If what you have suggested is BSS-compliant then that's good news because it makes the fabrication of the "hearth" (for want of a better word) for the boiler to mount onto quite simple.

 

Apologies if this has been answered elswhere.

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The manual recommends a minimum 25mm air gap at the back and mounting on a non combustible surface.

Open to interpretation I have concluded that provided there is sufficient air gap allowed to run through the framework then the fire barrier is achievable using a material such as aluminium.

I'm going to extend the hearth,as it were, by 50mm to either side of the unit and run the hearth from bottom back of front plate to ceiling so as that there is some degree of heat protection behind the flue.

I am going to run the inch by inch hardwood frame vertically leaving an equal void between each riser. Because the frame and the fire barrier will be terminated at the roof I was going to drill a series of linear 25mm holes to allow the air out.

I'll keep you posted.

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