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time between blacking.


tjderby

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Just after a bit of advice. The boat I'm purchasing was last blacked with 4 coats of bitumen in 2011 and also ad anodes replaced. Would it be ok to wait to have it blacked next year? Which gives me the extra cash now to get bit I need for onboard her and save up for blacking after Xmas? The reason I ask is I've had different opinions. Some say blacking should be done every 2 to 3 years, other say upto 5 years? Cheers

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Normally a 4 year blacking cycle - though I'm stretching mine to 5 this time round as it was last done in Sept 2009 by myself and I slapped on as much as I could and I had it out the water for a fair period (curing times). There's only a few waterline rust spots now appearing. Anodes will usually be the key though. You can go to 5 years (or more even) dependant on how well it was done previously and how much use the boat has had outside of sitting idle.

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Normally a 4 year blacking cycle - though I'm stretching mine to 5 this time round as it was last done in Sept 2009 by myself and I slapped on as much as I could and I had it out the water for a fair period (curing times). There's only a few waterline rust spots now appearing. Anodes will usually be the key though. You can go to 5 years (or more even) dependant on how well it was done previously and how much use the boat has had outside of sitting idle.

I don't think the boats had much use over the past year or so. It was done towards end of summer 11 so its just coming upto 3 years since last done. So I think it will keep till next march. Or even towards the end of this year.

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I don't think the boats had much use over the past year or so. It was done towards end of summer 11 so its just coming upto 3 years since last done. So I think it will keep till next march. Or even towards the end of this year.

If you see a lot of it 'flaking' around the waterline, or much rust spots then that is usually a fair decision point for many. Like a previous contributor said, what (as per your Surveyor) condition are your anodes in?? This is one of those subjects that will get many differing opinions as in many respects its relative to how well and who did it in the past. I've (like many) seen shite jobs that have had the blacking peeling off after 6 months (or less). Others have gone for 6 years or more. In September, mine will be more than ready for a damn good blacking and 6 anodes.

Edited by Orca
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How much do anodes cost? There's a lot of info about cost of blacking but not about anodes.

I think in the past - for six - I budgeted about £250-£300 (screw on type). I could be wrong, but that's what I'm expecting to pay in late Summer doing it myself.

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Well I just found a company at mercia that charge £11.20 plus vat per foot based on a boat upto 39ft. So mine's going to cost £510 inc vat and that includes dry dock hire. Plus £176 for 6 anodes. So that's going to be done straight after survey since its cheaper than I thought

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As you intent to CC for a bit, then when the money is all sorted go sit in a marina just going out for 4 weeks a year (as I believe you have previously posted) it should be good for 4 years or more, however, as has been said here look at the waterline, if you need to then shift all the weight to one side, slap on some blacking along the waterline then swap the weight and tart up the other side, it's the waterline margin you need to watch, anything above the waterline just throw some slap on it every time you hit something.

K

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Very unlikely you'll need anodes if it had them replaced in 2011. They often last up to 10 years.

 

£11.50 per foot is also quite costly for blacking. Give Paul Barber a call. Will save you a couple hundred quid. He's 15 minutes from Sawley, and will do a cracking job.

 

http://www.pjbarberboatbuilderltd.co.uk

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tjderby, on 02 Apr 2014 - 02:34 AM, said:

Well I just found a company at mercia that charge £11.20 plus vat per foot based on a boat upto 39ft. So mine's going to cost £510 inc vat and that includes dry dock hire. Plus £176 for 6 anodes. So that's going to be done straight after survey since its cheaper than I thought

 

Thats very expensive - dont rush in.

 

I have just booked my 45 footer in at Lenton for £400 all in (dry dock Mon-Fri, three coats of intertuf, VAT but not anodes)

 

That other £200 ish will get you some solar panels !!

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Not had the survey yet. Next week.

 

The survey of the hull means that many small patches of blacking would have to be removed back to clean metal (for the ultrasonic thickness testing).

 

Good to hear that you're having it done anyway, as it would need to be done after a hull survey (and seeing as most of the work is done anyway - pulling her out and cleaning).

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Where are you having it surveyed- TJ-can it be done at the same time / place- it'll save one set of dry dock / lifting out fees

 

Except that 1) its not his boat (at the time) and 2) if the survey reveals something significant, or the sale otherwise falls through, he's just paid for someone else's boat blacking.

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Very unlikely you'll need anodes if it had them replaced in 2011. They often last up to 10 years.

 

£11.50 per foot is also quite costly for blacking. Give Paul Barber a call. Will save you a couple hundred quid. He's 15 minutes from Sawley, and will do a cracking job.

 

http://www.pjbarberboatbuilderltd.co.uk

But don't just compare prices - quality also matters and this is where reputations are important as there is not a lot else to go on.

 

This country has become bedevilled by the 'race to the bottom' with the built in assumption that we should always opt for the cheapest.

 

Much will depend on the care exercised in preparing for the blacking - something which you cannot immediateoy see once the paint has been applied but which will determine how long it lasts.

 

Others may add a comment but some people suggest that anodes are more important and are consumed quivcker if in a permanent marina as a result of stray current from other boats immediately around - although I have never seen an evidence-based full proof explanantion.

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I think the answer must just be -- it depends. Some waters are more damaging to blacking than others (acidic or corrosive?) and there is more stray electrical current in some places than others to eat up anodes. The way in which the boat is used also has a bearing -- more use implies more blacking scraped off in more places. Connection to a shoreline might cause more electrical activity and thus corrosion.

 

I agree that the anodes should be fine after less than 3 years, though. Ours are the same ones that were on there in 2007 and although the boat has been out of the water three times since then (last time being August 2013) they are still absolutely fine. Bear in mind that rough looking anodes are doing their job, provided that there is still plenty of metal to go, but always with a thought about the next time the boat will be out of the water.

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But don't just compare prices - quality also matters and this is where reputations are important as there is not a lot else to go on.

 

 

 

Correct - I have just had to book almost 10 weeks in advance to get my boat blacked by a yard with a good reputation.

I could have saved £70 at a yard I didnt know, or I could have paid over £300 more in a yard that lifted, jet washed, blacked and put back in - all in the same day.

 

Its a bit like buying 'tools' Its "better to pay a bit more and only buy it only once"

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But don't just compare prices - quality also matters and this is where reputations are important as there is not a lot else to go on.

 

This country has become bedevilled by the 'race to the bottom' with the built in assumption that we should always opt for the cheapest.

 

Much will depend on the care exercised in preparing for the blacking - something which you cannot immediateoy see once the paint has been applied but which will determine how long it lasts.

 

Others may add a comment but some people suggest that anodes are more important and are consumed quivcker if in a permanent marina as a result of stray current from other boats immediately around - although I have never seen an evidence-based full proof explanantion.

Totally agree. I was recommended Paul Barber by several folks ( including several on here) as a very good place to get work done on my boat, including blacking. He talked me through what he does and why. He leaves the boat out of the water for 3 days after the last coat for it to harden properly before going back in the water, amongst other things.. He also charges a very reasonable rate, which is a bonus, but was not top of my list of priorities. I'd rather have a proper job done than save a few quid. However, I don't want to pay over the odds for a shoddy job either.

 

Local folklore is that anodes corrode quickly in Sawley due to it being an ex gravel pit, thus high levels of acidity. Whether that's true I've no idea, but I've heard it several times. It's easy enough for even a novice to see how much their anodes have corroded, and a good boatyard will advise whether they need replacing or not.

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I bought my boat around 30/11/2012 and had a full survey. It had a good survey, so paid the money and immediately had it blacked and new anodes fitted while on the dry dock. On a 50ft trad it cost:

blacking using international intertuff £450.00

Repaint counter bands £95.00

Supply and fit 4x anodes £190.00

 

If I find employment I will have it done again, and most likely do it myself as would prep the waterline more as it's a bit rusty in places beneath the green algae! I fancy doing it myself and sharing the dock with my friends boat.

I personally am not impressed with blacking as after 7 months rust started to form on the waterline.

Jamesclapping.gif

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Very unlikely you'll need anodes if it had them replaced in 2011. They often last up to 10 years.

 

£11.50 per foot is also quite costly for blacking. Give Paul Barber a call. Will save you a couple hundred quid. He's 15 minutes from Sawley, and will do a cracking job.

 

http://www.pjbarberboatbuilderltd.co.uk

Bare in mind that includes the dry dock for the duration of the time its being blacked.

And its using rylards premium bitumen

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Bare in mind that includes the dry dock for the duration of the time its being blacked.

And its using rylards premium bitumen

Most places that do the blacking include the cost of the dock in the price, look on the bright side, your anodes may still be good until next time or you may only need the back ones done.

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