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Never overheat your engine again.


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Thought I'd enlighten some of you that may have cooling problems. As we all know water boils at 100c. This can be increased slightly by pressurizing the cooling system, hence the radiator cap in your car. My car has always been a problem with overheating so I've made simple changes and it is now perfect.

I no longer put water in the system. The stuff I use is a waterless based coolant. It doesn't boil till it hits 180c, which it never will. because of this the engine doesn't overheat, you can remove the radiator cap at running temperature and the stuff is reusable. As a bonus the system has very little pressure in it so is less prone to developing leaks. The stuff is a miracle in my view. Not cheap but doable if your skin tank is not coping.

Have a look on ebay for 'waterless coolant'.

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What temp. does it freeze at ?

 

edited .... just read the specs for Evans waterless coolant and it boils at 180c, freezes at -40c ... hmmmmmm.

Edited by Kwacker
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Thought I'd enlighten some of you that may have cooling problems. As we all know water boils at 100c. This can be increased slightly by pressurizing the cooling system, hence the radiator cap in your car. My car has always been a problem with overheating so I've made simple changes and it is now perfect.

I no longer put water in the system. The stuff I use is a waterless based coolant. It doesn't boil till it hits 180c, which it never will. because of this the engine doesn't overheat, you can remove the radiator cap at running temperature and the stuff is reusable. As a bonus the system has very little pressure in it so is less prone to developing leaks. The stuff is a miracle in my view. Not cheap but doable if your skin tank is not coping.

Have a look on ebay for 'waterless coolant'.

 

Ofcourse if you had a decent cooling system in the first place you wouldn't need a coolant that has a higher boiling point. It won't replace a undersized skintank, you still have to take the heat away and only physical size and structure can help here.

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logic says if you have a skin tank that is allowing water to overheat at max power running for a long period of time on a river then this should be a good solution.

However if overheating at canal speeds then if design is right something is wrong like sediment in skin tank.

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I am no engineer, but I thought that my engine had water coolant because it's design operating temperature is below the boiling point of that fluid. So although this miracle coolant will happily take 140oC, all that has happened is that my coolant isn't boiling, I'm still running my engine over hot. Won't that result in piston wear, oil degradation and other nasty stuff?

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I know people who use the stuff, and it does work apparently, although in the main should be required and as said, may lead to the engine running too hot, all be it not boiling over.

 

Wouldnt like to be near it when it does boil however....

 

 

Daniel

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As I understand it modern diesels are designed to run most efficiently at temperatures around 95 degrees, and will tolerate extended runs at over 100 degrees even if the coolant can't handle it, so there seems to be some sense in a product like this.

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I am no engineer, but I thought that my engine had water coolant because it's design operating temperature is below the boiling point of that fluid. So although this miracle coolant will happily take 140oC, all that has happened is that my coolant isn't boiling, I'm still running my engine over hot. Won't that result in piston wear, oil degradation and other nasty stuff?

 

Your engine doesn't run hotter just that the coolant can take the heat away better (higher boiling point).

Does this stuff transfer the same quantity of heat per litre pumped as water?

 

The closer you get to the boiling point the less heat it will be able to transfer.

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How much does this stuff cost? I thought it was mega expensive?

 

Most boat engines work well below 100 degrees and so the higher temperature handling is only of use when things go very badly wrong. The temperature will need close monitoring as otherwise you will miss developing problems. A good temperature gauge is probably advised.

 

...........Dave

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I dunno what this stuff is but I've used it on my car which always had overheating problems before but now it is fine. Proof of the pudding............

 

Is it though?

 

Do any engine manufacturers recommend that the coolant is "Evans waterless" coolant, or do they recommend normal antifreeze? I imagine there is a reason most engines are designed and built around a running temperature which is fine for normal coolant. Logic says that if the engine is still overheating, then there is a fault either with the engine or its cooling system, not a design fault with the specification of coolant (ok maybe some cars are more prone than others to overheat though...) and if its running at a hotter temperature, then the oil is also running hotter. Most cars these days have a dedicated oil cooler, and those that don't still gain a lot of oil cooling effect via the sump. So the oil will be taking more of the work of cooling the motor. So it will be degrading quicker.

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Is this propylene glycol ? MP -59C BP 188C. I can't find a figure for its thermal capacity.

 

2.49 KJ/Kg°C

 

vs 4.15 for water...

 

So, yes, it will go hotter without boiling, but it will transfer less heat than water. Mineral oil really doesn't like going above about 120 °C, and even straight 30 oil breaks down quite quickly above 130 degrees.

 

Fit a proper sized skin tank.. Or buy an air-cooled engine.

 

:)

  • Greenie 1
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My gearbox with an oil cooler has a maximum recommended running temp of eighty degrees.Struggling to see the point, if your coolant is getting remotely close to 100 degrees you have a problem you need to address.

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Your engine doesn't run hotter just that the coolant can take the heat away better (higher boiling point).

That's not true surely?

 

This stuff is only achieving anything useful if its temperature is rising higher than the normal water based coolant mix it is replacing.

 

If it is getting hotter, then so are the cooled parts of the engine.

If you have a calorifier, think of the effect coolant at above 100C circulating through the calorifier would have!

 

Quite!

 

I wondered when someone was going to raise that.

 

Without an effective mixer valve in the system, boiling water out of your taps or shower sounds a distinct possibility - steam even maybe!

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