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Candy Washing Machine Problem


Ian on Leo

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We bought a Candy 100F washing machine second hand for our narrowboat. In most respects it is ideal and even works with our 1600W inverter providing you turn the fridge off and run the engine. However it has a problem in that it carries on filling unless you turn the water supply off at the tap. It is plumbed in to the cold water supply on the boat.

 

When you run the machine it starts filling (as it should) but does not stop filling. Eventually the drum fills up to such an extent that some other function cuts in and runs the pump to empty the machine so that the machine is then simultaneously filling and emptying.

 

I've checked the pressure sensor that should tell it when to turn off the water coming into the machine. That sensor clicks when you blow up the pipe leading to it and the switches within it seem to work too. I've also tested the solenoid of the inlet valve and that seems to be fine too.

 

So could the problem lie with the main control board? I'm reluctant to spend money on replacing that if it will not cure the problem. Does anyone else have any experience of this problem with this machine?

 

Or we could simply carry on as we do by turning the water supply off for each fill, but this does mean ours is only a semi automatic washing machine, and that is inconvenient when going through locks while washing.

 

Thanks for any help or advice with this.

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A complete shot in the dark here, but years ago we had a brand new washer do that in the house(not a Candy.) When the engineer came to it, the fault was caused by the drain pipe from the machine being too low, and having some sort of siphoning effect. It was a long time ago so a bit vague, but raising the height of the drain did cure it.

Edited by Guest
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The level detector clicks when you blow into it, but have you blown the other way (down the pipe into the drum) ? These pipes do get clogged with detergent scum etc. and the sensor then doesn't know the drum is full.

 

Have you also tried blowing into the sensor whist the m/c is filling? It should stop. If it doesn't then either the sensor is not working, despite clicking, or the controller is not recognising/reacting to the sensor.

 

N

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It's normally reccomended to run the machine empty doing a maximum temperature wash every now and again to de-gunge bits like the detectors, filters, pipework and all that particularly if you normally use the cooler washing programs (or is it programmes).

K

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Ian, ask the moderators to change your username.i have reported your post to assist.

Otherwise, you will be spammed to oblivion.

 

Is your inverter pure or modified sine wave?

My Candy will only work properly when hooked up to landline, not through my MSW inverter.

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Have you also tried blowing into the sensor whist the m/c is filling? It should stop. If it doesn't then either the sensor is not working, despite clicking, or the controller is not recognising/reacting to the sensor.

Sometimes the level sensor has 2 outputs; for 'part full' and 'way toooo full!'

 

It then gets the levels for different programmes by timing how long it takes to reach part full and keep filling for a timed interval after that.

 

So best test on the cotton programme which uses least water, and don't blow too hard which will trip the overfull level output too.

 

Don't take the sensor apart unless you want to buy a new one or waste at least a few hours :)

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

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Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I have tried the suggestions of catweasel and BEngo but these did not find the source of the problem. I think BEngo might be right in saying that "the controller is not recognising/reacting to the sensor". If so the answer may have to be buying a new controller.

 

Any other suggestions before I take that step?

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Could it also be that the inlet solenoid output relay is stuck on?

 

On my AQ1000T if you switch off the water supply before starting a wash eventually it times out after 5 mins, switches off the inlet solenoid and goes into 'sulk mode' :). If yours keeps the solenoid on regardless then I'd suspect the relay or it's driving circuit.

 

The PCB is often at the back down the bottom, the best way to access is tilt the machine carefully (unplug first!) You may be able to see corrosion or dry solder joints on the board or it's connectors which can be fixed OK.

 

Also just a thought have you tried it on shoreline, could be worth a try before going further? Maybe it doesn't like the inverter power quality.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited by smileypete
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