remote control water filling

[dor]

see post no 7

 

Rather you than me!

Aha! Yes, exactly as I meant. I guess you edited it after my suggestion, to also include the pic (a picture is worth a thousand words, after all!!!!)

Yes I did add the picture after - your post suggested my original might not have been as clear as I thought.

click on.

click off.

 

that's how I roll.

 

(and if anyone ever sees me in a onesie, you have permission to commit me to the loonybin)

But what are you going to do when the hose freezes?

[Paul C]

Something like :

 

http://heating.danfoss.co.uk/xxTypex/208513.html

[Beaker]

At least you dont have to get up at the crack of dawn every day and walk 50 miles with a 250 litre container on your back whilst being dive bombed by killer mossies only to drink luke warm parisite infested water, eat the pet mongral, get all sorts of ailments along with being shot at by rebel soldiers with tracer rounds whilst dodgeing eastern europieans selling the big issue etc......only to discover that the water you went for had evaporated leaving just 1 litre between 860 people, and they send you back for more (with a new container of course)

 

Luxury!

[Phil Ambrose]

 

So realistically, you're after either:

 

- a valve similar to pictured, but motorised and weatherproof too

- adapting the boat to accept mains water, but have a (motorised) valve too, to fill the water tank, then use a 'batch' of water - to get round the problems with leaving mains water pressuring the boat's domestic water system. The inlet and valve and pipework could be located within a self-draining enclosure, just in case.

The kit already exists, made by Plastimo.

Phil

[RLWP]

Why a motorised valve? Plumb the hose to a hoselock connector, through a non return valve and straight into a tee on the outlet of the water pump. Turn the tap on and the boat runs at mains pressure

 

Richard

[Paul C]

Why a motorised valve? Plumb the hose to a hoselock connector, through a non return valve and straight into a tee on the outlet of the water pump. Turn the tap on and the boat runs at mains pressure

 

Richard

 

To avoid flooding and sinking the boat in case of a simple pipe/fitting failure, while it was unattended. Fills would be supervised.

[DeanS]

a remote.

talks to a small pc board. 12v powered.

which contains a relay contact.

which feeds power to a 12V solenoid valve

which controls the water flow.

 

1m hose from bollard to solenoid.

connect other side of solenoid to the boat.

 

click remote.

solenoid opens

boat fills.

 

click remote.

solenoid closes.

boat stops filling.

 

if you forget, water will overflow out the cratch holes when boat full.

 

In winter a quick 5 min burst every few hours or so should keep the ice forming. Pipes can be insulated (or left under the water level which is higher than freezing point.

 

All the electronics in a nice box. just the hose connections visible on the outside.

12V feed using clamp clips from boat batts to power it.

 

IM GONNA BUILD IT SOON..LOL

[RLWP]

 

To avoid flooding and sinking the boat in case of a simple pipe/fitting failure, while it was unattended. Fills would be supervised.

 

Turn the tap off when unattended

 

Like Dean turns the water pump off (bet he doesn't)

 

Richard

[dor]

a remote.

talks to a small pc board. 12v powered.

which contains a relay contact.

which feeds power to a 12V solenoid valve

which controls the water flow.

 

1m hose from bollard to solenoid.

connect other side of solenoid to the boat.

 

click remote.

solenoid opens

boat fills.

 

click remote.

solenoid closes.

boat stops filling.

 

if you forget, water will overflow out the cratch holes when boat full.

 

In winter a quick 5 min burst every few hours or so should keep the ice forming. Pipes can be insulated (or left under the water level which is higher than freezing point.

 

All the electronics in a nice box. just the hose connections visible on the outside.

12V feed using clamp clips from boat batts to power it.

 

IM GONNA BUILD IT SOON..LOL

Why do you need the solenoid valve at the bollard end. Wouldn't it be better (assuming your hose doesn't leak) to have the control at the boat end?

[DeanS]

Why do you need the solenoid valve at the bollard end. Wouldn't it be better (assuming your hose doesn't leak) to have the control at the boat end?

 

it needs a 12V supply from the boat batts at the stern. My stern is closest to the bollard which means it's simpler to put the box there, connect the 12V with a cable and 2 battery clamps...through an airvent hole. Connect bollard to box and normal hose from box to bow water tank.

[fudd]

Actually similar systems used to be available when we used to be caravanners. It was like a connection to mains water rather than drawing it from the aquaroll (or in this case the boats tank).

 

Perhaps Biz could knock you something up.

I had a similar idea until I realised that if it went wrong the boat could sink.

[Andy Todd]

click on.

click off.

 

that's how I roll.

 

(and if anyone ever sees me in a onesie, you have permission to commit me to the loonybin)

 

http://www.screwfix.com/p/surestop-remote-stop-cock-push-fit-15mm/48604 ?

[Phil Ambrose]

You are all over engineering this as the kit already exists, and yes I did have an issue on one occasion but after that I did as RLWP suggested and turned mains off as I passed on my way out.

Phil

[dor]

 

it needs a 12V supply from the boat batts at the stern. My stern is closest to the bollard which means it's simpler to put the box there, connect the 12V with a cable and 2 battery clamps...through an airvent hole. Connect bollard to box and normal hose from box to bow water tank.

Ah yes - I can see what you mean if you are on a pontoon moored stern in.