Mikuni MX40 repair engineer

[davidc]

Does anyone have any recommendations for a Mikuni repair engineer in the Stafford/derby area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[nicknorman]

No, but might it not be something you can fix yourself? For example glowplugs are a "consumable" and don't last that long, easy to replace. In the black box of electronic tricks is an LED. When a fault is detected, this flashes a certain number of flashes. The manual allows you to decode this into a faulty item. Its not always foolproof but may give us an idea.

[George Kennedy]

I agree with nicknorman, the led indicator will tell you about any fault but consult their website for more info. http://www.mikuniheating.com/Marine.cfm

I have found them to be very helpful with spares and they also do a service whereby you disconnect and send your unit to them and they will service it and return it to you.

[Burgiesburnin]

Does anyone have any recommendations for a Mikuni repair engineer in the Stafford/derby area.

 

What seems to be the trouble?

[davidc]

What seems to be the trouble?

 

 

It was working fine then it just went through the start up and after a min or two stopped.

I had a the marina engineer have a look he said it was the main motor for the combustion and quote 250 for the parts and 200 for doing the job.

I just wanted to have a seconded opinion as it seems a bit high.

and of course he has disconnect the electrics so I cannot count the flashes on the switch.

 

#

[treborland]

hi try ed shears brill with any heating problems phone no 07922163072 he lives in Leek staffs

[steve hayes]

When I have had problems with our MX40 have been down to a lack of water / air lock. Be careful the flash codes on the control unit are a best guess at the problem, over temp was an air lock.

 

Get the electric back on and try and fire it up and listen / watch it carefully. The air supply is about the first thing to come on (after the water pump IIRC). Does it start the fire up procedure ? ticking of the fuel pump and white smoke from the exhaust ? It is normally at this point that if gets upset and stops.

 

If the air supply motor needs replacing it's bleeding expensive @£225 from Mikuni.

[Midnight Rider]

Aqua Narrowboats at Mercia Marina will do it.

[NMEA]

 

 

I had a the marina engineer have a look he said it was the main motor for the combustion and quote 250 for the parts and 200 for doing the job.

If you want to do it yourself or have somebody who can I have a couple of "known good" MX40 air motors and you can have one for a score and postage cost if it helps as I don't fit used parts. The cost quoted is about what I would charge. ie air motor, gaskets and stuff at 225 & four hours labour so not over the top. Be advised though that fitting an air motor will entail resetting the CO2 and the MX40 is awkward as it needs to be done with shims and you need access to an exhaust gas anayliser. The hearer will work if you don't do it but will probably eat glow plugs and or coke up early.

Edited October 31, 2013 by NMEA

[davidc]

If you want to do it yourself or have somebody who can I have a couple of "known good" MX40 air motors and you can have one for a score and postage cost if it helps as I don't fit used parts. The cost quoted is about what I would charge. ie air motor, gaskets and stuff at 225 & four hours labour so not over the top. Be advised though that fitting an air motor will entail resetting the CO2 and the MX40 is awkward as it needs to be done with shims and you need access to an exhaust gas anayliser. The hearer will work if you don't do it but will probably eat glow plugs and or coke up early.

Thank you

 

Have been in the engine hold and plug in the electric supply the red light on the unit is flashing five times

[Higgs]

Thank you

 

Have been in the engine hold and plug in the electric supply the red light on the unit is flashing five times

 

Don't know if you have the operational manual - if not, according to the operational manual, five flashes is 'motor circuit unusual'; Motor burnt out; Connectors out of place; Fuse blown. ??

[davidc]

 

Don't know if you have the operational manual - if not, according to the operational manual, five flashes is 'motor circuit unusual'; Motor burnt out; Connectors out of place; Fuse blown. ??

 

am assuming as it was checked by an engineer that the fuses are OK as well as the connectors

[NMEA]

Thank you

 

Have been in the engine hold and plug in the electric supply the red light on the unit is flashing five times

Classic pump fault.

[nicknorman]

Classic pump fault.

Why do you say "pump fault"? According to the manual, its 4 flashes for a pump fault and 5 flashes for an air motor fault. OP is reporting 5 flashes.

[NMEA]

Why do you say "pump fault"? According to the manual, its 4 flashes for a pump fault and 5 flashes for an air motor fault. OP is reporting 5 flashes.

Because I mistyped, was thinking about something else, I meant classic motor fault.

[nicknorman]

Because I mistyped, was thinking about something else, I meant classic motor fault.

Fairy nuff. Out of interest, do you know what the typical failure mode of the motor is, and are they repairable? - just thinking ahead to when mine goes, sometime in the future,

Edited November 3, 2013 by nicknorman

[NMEA]

They are pretty long lived given a reasonably damp free house to live in and not left standing idle for months on end. I am sure that given enough patience and the right equipment they can be given an extension to their life by repairing (if broken, what's to lose?) but frankly I would never bother as the cost of my time would approach a new unit with a guarantee.

[Boredrider]

When mine failed last year, and I got the quote of £250 ish for a new unit, I looked at replacing the bearings in the old unit. Pretty much impossible I would say, even for a competent DIYer. I replaced with new and it has been working fine ever since (touch wood!). I was in blissful ignorance of the need to reset the CO2 with shims.....................

 

This is a unit that is 12 years old, and AFAIK the air motor has been replaced twice in its lifetime.

[NMEA]

When mine failed last year, and I got the quote of £250 ish for a new unit, I looked at replacing the bearings in the old unit. Pretty much impossible I would say, even for a competent DIYer. I replaced with new and it has been working fine ever since (touch wood!). I was in blissful ignorance of the need to reset the CO2 with shims.....................

As I said you need the right kit, or at least access to it, but it really isn't worth the effort.

[davidc]

As I said you need the right kit, or at least access to it, but it really isn't worth the effort.

So a quote of 450 including labour to replace the unit is a fair price

[Higgs]

So a quote of 450 including labour to replace the unit is a fair price

 

May be they're just very slow at fitting.

[NMEA]

 

May be they're just very slow at fitting.

Not if it's done right, even if it's in the yard: Get to boat and remove heater, return to workshop and strip, stupid not to decoke it whilst on the bench, reassemble, run up on test rig and check CO2 and shim up if needed, return to boat and refit, bleed fluid and recheck CO2. Just whipping off the motor and bolting on a new one is not the way to do it right.

[Higgs]

It was working fine then it just went through the start up and after a min or two stopped.

Not if it's done right, even if it's in the yard: Get to boat and remove heater, return to workshop and strip, stupid not to decoke it whilst on the bench, reassemble, run up on test rig and check CO2 and shim up if needed, return to boat and refit, bleed fluid and recheck CO2. Just whipping off the motor and bolting on a new one is not the way to do it right.

 

If you forget the decoke and fit on the boat. ??

[NMEA]

 

If you forget the decoke and fit on the boat. ??

Then it would need a decoke sooner than if you did it whilst it was off, it would add less than an hour to the job so I would never not do one whilst the thing was on the bench anyway, just unprofessional really.

[nicknorman]

Not if it's done right, even if it's in the yard: Get to boat and remove heater, return to workshop and strip, stupid not to decoke it whilst on the bench, reassemble, run up on test rig and check CO2 and shim up if needed, return to boat and refit, bleed fluid and recheck CO2. Just whipping off the motor and bolting on a new one is not the way to do it right.

Sorry to be pedantic but you have repeatedly mentioned setting the CO2. Surely its the CO that you are testing / adjusting? Or is it that I don't understand what that step is for? There is going to be lots of CO2 from burning the diesel!