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thin plastic film 'double glazing'


silverbuttocks

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Hi All,

 

We have been thinking about fitting some of that cheap film that you can attach to window frames and then make taut with the use of a (12v) hair drier. Do any of you have experience with this? I've seen it used in a house, but the main issue I envisage on a boat is how to stick it securely to the wooden window frames. We want to use this on most - but not all - windows to reduce condensation and increase heat insulation. Any thoughts???

 

Cheers!

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We have tried the thin plastic film and it works fine, biggest problem was removing it at the end of the winter as the adhesive tape is very enthusiastic. We are using it again this year but next year will probably go for the rigid plastic option with magnetic tape but this means that the tape will be visible all the year.


I am experimenting with perspex sheets and velcro this year, however, as it is less hassle, once they have been cut to size.

How does the velcro work? I would have thought that to put a continuous strip of velcro to the plastic and the frame might make it very difficult to remove and would the double thickness of velcro be airtight, or is there another with the velcro?

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Hi,

 

I've used the film you're talking about on my windows, they are louvred panes in aluminium frames. I'm not sure how effective the film is at preventing condensation, having said thatI don't seem to suffer from condensation so far, so, perhaps it's really good!

What I've found is the film is really good at reducing the draft around the louvres. It took a few attempts to get the fit right as there wasn't much of the frame to stick the double sided tape to. I'd say it's worth a punt, though not sure how well the tape would stick to a wooden window frame.

 

I'm rarely at the boat in daylight hours, especially now the clocks have changed, so the curtains are usually closed when I'm aboard. The boat is 40ft and at the moment 1 bar of a 2 bar halogen heater is keeping the boat comfortably warm. I'm on an electric hookup at the moment, so not bothering with the wood burner for now, as I haven't mastered controlling it's temperature yet.

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It won't be airtight but should be insulating.

 

I.m experimenting with a layer of adhesive door insulation running around the perspex so I don't need a continuous run of velcro and to add to the airtightness. but, if it does fall off, I will use more velcro.

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Never used it myself but I know many people who swear by it. My portholes are fixed so are permanently D/G with rigid plastic and my 2 Houdini hatches are D/G with acrylic plastic sheet which comes down for summer.

I well remember louvre windows, very trendy in the 60's also very draughty!

 

Phil

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Two weeks ago i fitted perspex glazing inside my boat . Ordered it cut to size and 2 mm thick . Unscrewed the bars that retain the glass at the top of the windows and fitted magnetic strip to the frame & perspex . After the winter the perspex panels lift off and the magnetic strip stays on the frame so that next yr i just get the panels from behind the sofa and put them back up . im happy with the results and also made one for my hatch so i can have light but no breeze and also got discs for the portholes .

cheers

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We used Tesa film (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0038JE7X6/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) last year.

Works brilliantly and quite easy to remove when the warm weather eventually came!

Interesting. A couple of questions :

Does it fit ok around the window hopper supports which protrude more than the wooden frame?

Does the adhesive tape come off easily without leaving marks?. Thanks

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Interesting. A couple of questions :

Does it fit ok around the window hopper supports which protrude more than the wooden frame?

Does the adhesive tape come off easily without leaving marks?. Thanks

this is a problem i have come across and cant think of a solution except to replace the hopper supports during the summer.

the problem is that in the summer with the supports removed and the window open if it rains on a windy day the rain gets blown in at the sides.i would love to see a solution to this as i would not want the perspex up during the summer.paul

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I am also experimenting with magnetic Perspex sheets.

I sawed off the protruding part of the window hopper flush with the window surround.

The Perspex fits over nicely and enough hopper is left to still hold the glazing in summer.

The windows I have done get no condensation at all, the others can be wet through in the morning.

The problem I have is the adhesive on the magnetic tape keeps falling off the frame and the Perspex.

Where do get your magnetic strip from ?

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I don t know about how those who use the plastic film but i took the hoppers (?) out altogether as theyre held on with two screws . This means the window frame is level all the way around & makes my perspex secondary glazing fit easily . When the glazing comes after the winter i ll put the hoppers back in .

Sooty

 

My magnetic strip came from eclipse magnetics . it comes in 30 m rolls . i got the 10 mm " self mating " option . it sticks to itself . I ve had no probs with it s adhering to the the window frames mostly but have used a very small amount of contact adhesive on one of the window frames .

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One other thing . It was on this forum that i found the method of making my perspex glazing - it certainly wasn t an idea of my own . I cannot remember exactly but im sure i found it on a thread " good fit out ideas " or use the search facility using " double glazing " perhaps . The bright spark who did think of it also put up two photos .

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One other thing . It was on this forum that i found the method of making my perspex glazing - it certainly wasn t an idea of my own . I cannot remember exactly but im sure i found it on a thread " good fit out ideas " or use the search facility using " double glazing " perhaps . The bright spark who did think of it also put up two photos .

That was probably Roger Gunkel

Interesting. A couple of questions :

Does it fit ok around the window hopper supports which protrude more than the wooden frame?

Does the adhesive tape come off easily without leaving marks?. Thanks

Yes to the adhesive tape removal.

Our boat doesn't have protruding thingies!

Re Roger G, he links to his original post in this thread http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=43934&page=1, but the link doesn't work for me now.

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Plastic film has worked fine for us for years. Sometimes we've left it on some windows through the summer and a second winter.

We are lucky that our builder made the wooden framing deep enough that the hopper heads don't get in the way.

We get no condensation at all and much less cold down draught from fitted windows.

I'm working on a mod to the windows to allow me to fit film to the fixed part only, leaving us able to open the hopper. I'd like to leave a couple of hoppers openable in our saloon.

Wilko usually sell kits about this time of year, and Aldi are currently selling one, very cheap but with less material.

The only problem is that the double sided tape does leave some residue on our varnished timber frames. This collects dirt, looks unsightly and prevents the next lot from sticking properly when autumn comes along again. It's imperative to get it off, therefore, and the most effective method seems to be scraping with a Stanley blade. None of the solvents tried seem to work on it, including thinners, white spirit and meths.

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That was probably Roger Gunkel

Yes to the adhesive tape removal.

Our boat doesn't have protruding thingies!

Re Roger G, he links to his original post in this thread http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=43934&page=1, but the link doesn't work for me now.

 

Linky here:http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=25464&st=0

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We used the film last year. Made a massive difference to heat/condensation and when tight it is invisible. Only thing is when a bit pulls and it starts to wrinkle - looks tatty. And the tape is a B******* to get off the frames - I am part way through trying to remove years worth so I can varnish one cabin. I was considering the perspex method this year - I reckon that if you cut the perspex to fit tight within the window frame it would wedge in without need for tape, magnetic or otherwise. Has anyone tried this? I also thought about drilling holes and using a small set of lugs to attach it - though not as airtight.

 

And in late spring I suspect you can use it to protect your seedlings - though John has said I am not allowed to reuse it like that.

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We used the film last year. Made a massive difference to heat/condensation and when tight it is invisible. Only thing is when a bit pulls and it starts to wrinkle - looks tatty. And the tape is a B******* to get off the frames - I am part way through trying to remove years worth so I can varnish one cabin. I was considering the perspex method this year - I reckon that if you cut the perspex to fit tight within the window frame it would wedge in without need for tape, magnetic or otherwise. Has anyone tried this? I also thought about drilling holes and using a small set of lugs to attach it - though not as airtight.

 

And in late spring I suspect you can use it to protect your seedlings - though John has said I am not allowed to reuse it like that.

no,but it sounds like a good idea and would like to know if it works.i have more of a noise problem than heat or condensation.

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I removed last years tape with "sticky stuff remover" & elbow grease, works best if you get the spray one ( aldi sell it) give a spray & leave to soak for a few mins.

 

 

Edited to make sense

Edited by Jamboat
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Another vote for the secondary film...but the downside is the double sided tape that will not come off my wooden frames. I was told to attach the film with pritt stick? Instead. Never tried it, might be a load of old tosh, but if it holds and comes off at the end of winter that will do me very well.

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Two weeks ago i fitted perspex glazing inside my boat . Ordered it cut to size and 2 mm thick . Unscrewed the bars that retain the glass at the top of the windows and fitted magnetic strip to the frame & perspex . After the winter the perspex panels lift off and the magnetic strip stays on the frame so that next yr i just get the panels from behind the sofa and put them back up . im happy with the results and also made one for my hatch so i can have light but no breeze and also got discs for the portholes .

cheers

That sounds a perfick solution for my situation right now, do you mind telling me where you got the stuff.

 

tankies :)

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