Cutting out a bulkhead

[Chris-B]

So there I was scratching my head last night trying to work out the best way to do this ;

we have a non structural pywood bulkhead in Coronation that we need to remove as part of the refit

This has been fitted pior to the cabin upper and lower walls so the wall boards fit snug to it

The bulkhead in quiestion has some very nice painted artwork so I do not want to destroy it as I will use part of it in a different place later on

The crux of the matter is how to cut the bulkhead out as flush as possible to the adjoining wall surfaces !

If I use a jigsaw this will leave the width of the sole plate proud, like wise with a routher etc

Fienn tool not over acurate on a lot of long cuts ?

Has anybody got a bright idea or am missing the blindingly obvious !

Not had to do this for ages ......

Can supply pics etc if required

cheers

Chris

 

[Kae]

Personally I would cut it with a Fein tool as you call it, then use a piece of decorative trim to "make good". I don't think there's a way to get a better finish.

[Chris-B]

sanding back and decorative trim is not a problem Kae , all part of the end idea

Its more a case of trying to cut as flush as possible to reduce sanding etc

Chris

[Paul C]

Is it necessary to cut it out at all? As in, if its non-structural, it might be secured using screws etc which can be removed to remove the panel. You may need to remove a lot of the surrounding panelwork to allow this though.

 

A Dremel with a large circular saw tool could cut very close to the edge of another panel if it really needed cutting, but it would take a while and I'd strongly advise to wear safety glasses since the cutting implement can become loose or break up etc.

[RLWP]

'I got a sort of feeling - if we remove the ceiling....'

 

What's wrong with an old-fashioned saw

 

Richard

[MtB]

How about removing the cabin wall boards to get it out in one piece with no cutting?

 

Or if the cabin boards are long and impractical to remove them whole, how about making a vertical cut in the cabin wall boards a couple of feet back from the precious bulkhead panel, and removing just two feet width of cabin wall boards?

 

A photo would be good to understand the exact problem more clearly!

 

 

MtB

[koukouvagia]

I'd use a Fein with a wide blade. I've used this method to cut out all the rotten floorboards in a corridor (in a house) flush with the skirting board. Worked a treat.

[FadeToScarlet]

I'd use a Fein with a wide blade. I've used this method to cut out all the rotten floorboards in a corridor (in a house) flush with the skirting board. Worked a treat.

I'd do the same, if you're running the blade along the existing walls either side it should cut flush and straight.

[Chris-B]

Yes we have a fein tool so I think some new wide blades will be the best way

I dont relly want to remove the wall boars unless I have to

right this weekend is cutting time

photos and elestoplast to follow

c

[Mike Jordan]

Some fit outs include partial bulkheads that are cut with a big sweeping curve that removes most of the material to make a feature. Doing that might look better than trying to remove it completely. You would need to put a decent edging on the cut edge. If you are not happy with the result you could always return to plan A.

Its always difficult to take something out without making it obvious.

[Ex- Member]

Use a large Japanese saw 0 set, you'll be able to cut perfectly flush to the boat sides the saw blade is 0 set so will not mark the paneling either side. These saws are very sharp and cut on the pull action. It will be time consuming but you would need to take your time what ever method you use.

 

Option 2 cut close with a hand saw, then set a large flat cutting router across the overlap, eventually set it 0.1mm short of the paneling. Perfect flush finish any decent trim would cover nicely.

[David Schweizer]

Being someone who underrtakes all woodwork projects with tools that my Great Grandfather would recognise, I see no problem with using a traditional panel saw, although a Disston D8 finger hole saw (which I have) would be ideal, as the hole allows you to use the saw backwards into a corner, steadying it with your thumb in the hole.

 

Edited September 30, 2013 by David Schweizer

[alan_fincher]

photos and elestoplast to follow

c

Before you start......

 

If things go badly, can you type with just one hand, because we are definitely keen to know how it went......

[Neil2]

I suppose one of those flush cut saws that they use for trimming plugs etc is too fine for the job? It sounds like what you need if you want to do it by hand, depends on how thick the ply is perhaps.

[Ex- Member]

I suppose one of those flush cut saws that they use for trimming plugs etc is too fine for the job? It sounds like what you need if you want to do it by hand, depends on how thick the ply is perhaps.

 

You'll be surprised, the larger bladed saws will cut pretty thick timber. I've cut off the bottom of fixed door frames off with one then slid laminate flooring underneath for a perfect finish. They're a really handy saw to have around for all sorts of jobs. Really sharp too.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140899195143&item=140899195143&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466

 

I have this type 10 inch blade.

http://www.yandles.co.uk/ice-bear-japanese-hassunme-crosscut-saw-250mm/p876

[blackrose]

sanding back and decorative trim is not a problem Kae , all part of the end idea

Its more a case of trying to cut as flush as possible to reduce sanding etc

Chris

 

I'd plane whatever's left before/rather than sanding.

[Chris-B]

Alan

If and Only If I manage to injure myself with the saw, it will be the hand I open my wallet with so you will have to supply me with beer at the banter, ( when you are laughing at the damage I have done)

Fear not ..........Lise and I have a cunning plan ( and I am strictly NOT allowed to use a chainsaw inside)>>>(anymore)

Chris

 

I'd plane whatever's left before/rather than sanding.

yeah good point BR 'all depends on whats left

I will be able to get a good flush finish with the router before a decorative capping

Chris