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Captain Fizz

What have you fettled for the boat today?

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Two 120W CIGS panels fitted giving 240 W solar. And room to move down the roof.

 

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Replacing a deck light on HATFIELD, pleased there's only one to do but I have got it moving.  Interestingly this breakage was due to impact damage between the tug and a concrete edge on the offside. (No, not me at the helm) ?

 

I'll post a follow up later.

 

 

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Well, job done for the moment and I guarantee it won't leak but less than happy with it.  Knew they came in different diameters but didn't realise they were also different in thickness.  Had to get one of those diamond blades for the angle grinder and pare about 1/8" off the bottom flange.  The scarring left by this can be seen through the glass. 

Not one of my most successful jobs.....

 

 

 

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Replaced all the pipework connecting 3 rads to my (new) Webasto ThermoTop C, which was plastic (speedfit), with 22mm copper.  Worked at 2nd attempt at firing up, with no leaks. The Webasto itself was installed by Steve at Kings Lock and I have designed and installed 3 radiators and a blower and associated pipework (though I have not tried the blower yet). Early days I know, but dead chuffed!

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I am very interested in this. Could you say a little more about how the sumps, particularly for the gearbox, are obtained and fitted.

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1 hour ago, frahkn said:

I am very interested in this. Could you say a little more about how the sumps, particularly for the gearbox, are obtained and fitted.

With the help of RLWP I fitted a sump pump to my gearbox. Unlike Brian422 I have two separate pumps. The gearbox sump plug was replaced with an adapter made by Richard. The PRM 150 box has two different sump plugs, depending on age. https://www.prm-newage.com/  Photo 2.

 

The pump is your standard engine one available from most boaty sources.

 

Pirtek https://www.pirtek.co.uk/ made the hose with connections to suit. Photo 1.

 

As a belt & braces I fitted a butterfly shut off valve at the base of the pump.

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Edited by Ray T

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Ray T

 

Thanks very much, really helpful.

 

I might see if Richard would be interested in helping me with a similar arrangement.

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On 12/07/2019 at 14:46, NB Esk said:

Well, job done for the moment and I guarantee it won't leak but less than happy with it.  Knew they came in different diameters but didn't realise they were also different in thickness.  Had to get one of those diamond blades for the angle grinder and pare about 1/8" off the bottom flange.  The scarring left by this can be seen through the glass. 

Not one of my most successful jobs.....

 

 

 

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Bit late to this but hey-ho...

 

If you have access to a large sander or even just some wet and dry glued to a piece of glass you could spend an hour or so rubbing that glass down to make the ridge/flange even. 

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12 hours ago, WotEver said:

Bit late to this but hey-ho...

 

If you have access to a large sander or even just some wet and dry glued to a piece of glass you could spend an hour or so rubbing that glass down to make the ridge/flange even. 

 

Thanks, it's on my list of jobs.  I need to get the whole thing out to get rid of any corrosion under it and get some paint in there.  Need to source some of the correct screws, managed to remove and replace the other deck lights but this one defeated me.  (only temporarily)

 

 

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On 04/10/2019 at 10:56, frahkn said:

I am very interested in this. Could you say a little more about how the sumps, particularly for the gearbox, are obtained and fitted.

The only note to Ray T's photo is that because clearance between gearbox drain plug and hull is limited, I would suggest one end of high pressure hose has 90 degree connection.

 

Hydraulic Hose Fitting..jpg

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Nice sunny day so made a couple of brass stars for our boat and a brass plate for a lucky person with a RussellIMG_0876.JPG.c8af6401d57092164b822d6fe85294e0.JPG Newbery

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On several occasions I have been stopped whilst cruising on narrow canals by lock gates that I could not persuade to fully open due to detritus between the gate and the lock wall.  On one occasion C&RT were called out and turned up with no equipment, drained a short pound somewhat, and used my gangplank as a primitive lever to clear the obstruction.  I resolved to be better equipped, and a long time later, I now am, with the device below.  It consists of a trowel-shaped piece of metal welded on to a threaded collar taken from a roller-mop head which attaches to a standard 6' - 12' extension pole as used in the decorating trade. The specification for the trowel bit was that it should be able to lift a brick.  I don't remember how much the pole cost but I thought at the time it was cheap for the quality.  All I have to do now is find an opportunity to test it in a live situation.  I have no experience of kebs (?) but I wanted something that could shift silt.  It also had to come apart to make it easy to store.

 

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Edited by system 4-50
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10 minutes ago, system 4-50 said:

The specification for the trowel bit was that it should be able to lift a brick.

Don't those bricks come in 2-Pimples, 4-pimples, 6-pimples & 8-pimples.

Which was your specification written around ?

 

(Nice job by the way)

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Rebuilt the boat's central heating. Moved the pump from near the bed to the back to the boat to reduce noise. Added a fan heater connected into the central heating. Added a balancing valve to reduce the flow to the calorifier to get more flow to the radiators. Changed the antifreeze. Replaced the rubber hoses on the pump and the boiler. Relocated the header tank. 

Also moved the domestic water pump from the bottom of a cupboard to a more accessible location.

 

Now glad that I have finished trying to access plumbing that was built into very inaccessible areas, but not looking forward to the next job which is to do much the same for the engine cooling system. Currently there is neither a vent nor a drain on the skin tank and the pipe from the top of the tank runs down to near the baseplate before rising again at the engine, It is a nightmare changing the coolant and then getting the air back out!

 

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Vinyl flooring planks [£11/sq m], being laid on galley floor and on some bare 6ml cheapo ply, looking good .... so far .....

Edited by LadyG

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Finally after 5 years of kicking water down the waste and balancing on one leg I have replaced the shower tray and enclosure, it has been pxxxing us off since day one the shower tray outlet was at the front of the tray hence balancing on one leg to kick the water down the waste, the waste is now where it should of been in the first place at the rear of the tray, also the new shower enclosure has nano self cleaning glass and it actually does my better half is over the moon with it , this is the old tray 2nd picture is the old shower 3rd picture the new enclosure & tray 

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Edited by luggsy
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On 24/11/2019 at 14:29, LadyG said:

Vinyl flooring planks [£11/sq m], being laid on galley floor and on some bare 6ml cheapo ply, looking good .... so far .....

oops, laid one plank not tight enough to its neighbour. Tried to lift it and managed to delaminate a few inches. I have need of some of the top layer, but how do I get the thick sticky board up [easily].

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6 minutes ago, LadyG said:

oops, laid one plank not tight enough to its neighbour. Tried to lift it and managed to delaminate a few inches. I have need of some of the top layer, but how do I get the thick sticky board up [easily].

I have only fitted the non-sticky type. Despite the apparently simple "click" in the title, they do need tapping together once flat to complete the joint properly.  Not sure how well this works with sticky ones, or how you'd get this plank up without damaging it, but then the others are meant to float to allow for expansion which plastic can tend to do rather a lot. As I'm considering these on the boat, I'd be interested to hear how you get on with the sticky ones as I'm not closed minded to them if they work in the narrower width of the boaty application. 

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50 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

I have only fitted the non-sticky type. Despite the apparently simple "click" in the title, they do need tapping together once flat to complete the joint properly.  Not sure how well this works with sticky ones, or how you'd get this plank up without damaging it, but then the others are meant to float to allow for expansion which plastic can tend to do rather a lot. As I'm considering these on the boat, I'd be interested to hear how you get on with the sticky ones as I'm not closed minded to them if they work in the narrower width of the boaty application. 

They look really superior to any cheapo laminate, my floor is currently sort of wood strip parquet [cheapo] over ply. 

I sanded the bathroom floor , the galley seemed very level, I assume they will "absorb" a bit of "unlevelness", but not acute  edges. I have also used them on a vertical surface, had to use extra sticky carpet tape [double sided]. I am considering lining the cabin sides as T&G would be more work and more expensive.

They stick straight off, no second chance, I think it is better to align the long side at 90 degrees [stand then "up"] then drop down to fit.

 

Edited by LadyG

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6 minutes ago, LadyG said:

They look really superior to any cheapo laminate...

Yup.  I've done 2 bathrooms at home, more to do, and they look really good.  Important to put them over a decent base though. 

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12 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

Yup.  I've done 2 bathrooms at home, more to do, and they look really good.  Important to put them over a decent base though. 

I crossed my fingers somewhat [eeks], I will put them under the skirting board with clear silicon or that black marine stuff.

To do the job properly I would have hired a floor sander, but I decided to skimp on that ? [running out of energy/enthusiasm/time].

I will stop now for a month's trial., see if they look as good ?

Edited by LadyG

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1 hour ago, LadyG said:

how do I get the thick sticky board up [easily].

Heat gun. 

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