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What have you fettled for the boat today?


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My boat is in need of a repaint, paint is badly oxidised.

So I tried out some owaltrol polytol paint renovator before i forked out loads of money on a repaint.

It seemed to have worked, for how long? we will see. I've put the repaint of for a while now .

Before

IMG_6769.JPG.a20fa9cd31ce19369506103b80bf5e41.JPG

After

IMG_7006.jpg.d0d02e180e715bd05db085bc96bc931c.jpg

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11 hours ago, rustydiver said:

 

It seemed to have worked, for how long? we will see. 

I have had similar results with Autoglym and Bullit 357 Polish, but it's only lasted a matter of weeks even with carnauba wax on top. I suspect that was much harder work than Polytrol though - would that be right? Is Polytrol a "wipe on - wipe off" evolution? I'd be interested in your application experience, but of course also in seeing how it fares with time. 

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6 hours ago, Sea Dog said:

I have had similar results with Autoglym and Bullit 357 Polish, but it's only lasted a matter of weeks even with carnauba wax on top. I suspect that was much harder work than Polytrol though - would that be right? Is Polytrol a "wipe on - wipe off" evolution? I'd be interested in your application experience, but of course also in seeing how it fares with time. 

I was quite simple to apply.

Gave the boat a good wash first, left to dry the I found using a paint brush to apply was easier and it went further a 1 Ltr tin did all of my boat which is 58ft.

It says leave for up to 20 minutes, I found it set like glue and the cloth was sticking to it so did 5 to 10 mins depending on the weather, wiped off, it still left a sticky residue on it that dried after a while like a varnish coat.

IMG_6769.JPG.99b46060c76617cacb80846c0d1268fa.JPG

Now this patch I did about 6 weeks ago as a test and when I done all of the boat it was still fine. The small circle bit above the d was a carnauba wax, which disappeared after a week.

I will be interested in how it fares over the months. I will report back. But the paint now when you rub against it don't turn you green of when you wash it, it dont turn the water green.

I know I am probably delaying the fact it needs a repaint but at the moment £20 a tin to keep it looking better or 10k plus for a paint job. I will takes my chances even if i have to redo it before the winter.

 

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On 23/04/2019 at 08:43, dccruiser said:

I have used Mer in the past and it worked really well with a wax polish on top, the Mer is quite similar to T cut but not quite so aggresive

 

Rick

 

I used to use Mer when I had a Harley Davidson motorcycle, then I discovered an easier method......got shut of the Harley.

 

 

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2 hours ago, NB Esk said:

I used to use Mer when I had a Harley Davidson motorcycle, then I discovered an easier method......got shut of the Harley.

:D

 

Mer is great as long as you never want to repaint the boat - all that silicone makes it a nightmare. 

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Not the boat, but as the caravan is moored in the same marina as the boat :), Mrs.T and myself have just spent 4.5 hours on our backs fitting a motor mover.

 

Is this equivalent to a bow thruster.?

Edited by Ray T
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45 minutes ago, Ray T said:

Not the boat, but as the caravan is moored in the same marina as the boat :), Mrs.T and myself have just spent 4.5 hours on our backs fitting a motor mover.

 

Is this equivalent to a bow thruster.?

Yes, proper caravern's reverse it straight in with the tow car and park up right on the line

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Been on a mission to make my bote not smell of diesel.

 

Basically if you enter my bote for 15 mins you come away slightly humming of fuel in the clothes. I guess it's never been fully cleaned suffered from me sitting around in overalls etc and  I find diesel smell actually quite unpleasant but just lived with it. One of those pesky awkward jobs you never really get round to doing because you really need to do it all at once (strip down) to ensure the existing does not contaminate the newly washed.

 

As you know cleaned repainted engine, degreased and repainted bilge. Replace leaky exhaust manifold, piped crancase filter breather to outside (not inside engine room). So hopefully sorted the source.

 

Then took down 16 small curtains and two big curtains and washed them in nice smell wash. Sprayed with essential lavender oil a little.

Took every bit of clothing and anything material/towels etc out of bote  and washed them in nice smell wash.

Took out 20 – yes 20 stuffed foam seat/bench/bedding pieces which form the bedding/sets etc which really trap that fuel smell.

Took out the foam and washed the heavy cover material in nice smell wash. Sprayed with essential lavender oil a little.

The foam is unwashable so aired and sprayed with essential lavender oil a little. Left all out to air.

Ditto porthole bungs and 4 cushions.

 

Then before putting all in the bote – went to bote and wiped down every surface including ceiling with surface cleaner with a nice smell/oil. Even washed the cratch cover inside.

Sprayed essential mist oil into every cupboard, bed 'ole and nook and cranny. And on engine and exhaust lagging.

 

Hung back all curtains and will assemble all the foam cushions (nightmare getting the stiff sponge back in the stiff material) and put those back.

Restock the clothes etc and make effort to keep rags etc, in a sealed container.

 

It’s taken, in little bites – about a week but now the boat smells like a fancy candle shop.  :unsure:   

 

We will see how long it lasts.

 

 

Edited by mark99
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  • 2 weeks later...

Yesterday I changed  props with the boat in the water - with the assistance of chest waders and a step ladder , and thankfully a shallow depth mooring . Sorry no pictures of me  in the water but the  props (with the boat out of the water) look like this.

20180415.jpg

The outdrive legs tilts up but with the boat in the water the props remain submerged . I only needed to change the props on one leg  due to my mistake of fitting mis matching props when fitted last time the boat was out of the water.

I had greased the splines well when last fitting the props so it made removal easier than I had expected. 

Not a job for a winter day - the warm sun yesterday was welcome and the water temperature , although chilly , was tolerable.

 

As the job of changing props (if done by the marina) normally involves a crane, at great expense, the effort of getting into the water and inevitably getting  slightly wet was well worth the trouble.

 

 

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4 hours ago, MartynG said:

Yesterday I changed  props with the boat in the water - with the assistance of chest waders and a step ladder , and thankfully a shallow depth mooring . Sorry no pictures of me  in the water but the  props (with the boat out of the water) look like this.

20180415.jpg

The outdrive legs tilts up but with the boat in the water the props remain submerged . I only needed to change the props on one leg  due to my mistake of fitting mis matching props when fitted last time the boat was out of the water.

I had greased the splines well when last fitting the props so it made removal easier than I had expected. 

Not a job for a winter day - the warm sun yesterday was welcome and the water temperature , although chilly , was tolerable.

 

As the job of changing props (if done by the marina) normally involves a crane, at great expense, the effort of getting into the water and inevitably getting  slightly wet was well worth the trouble.

 

 

We do ours on the slipway. Reverse boat onto slipway mooring, lift leg as far as it will go. Get a load of ballast (usually a few people around to help with this) on the bow, drag boat backwards up the slipway until it won't go any further. 

 

Usually means you are only ankle deep in water while you change the props.

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We decided to go down to the boat after work last night to finish building up the stern drive. This time the oil seals were absolutely fine and slid onto the second shaft no problem. 

 

Total rebuild time to fit the shaft, fit new anodes, refit the props and refill with oil was 35 minutes. 

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59 minutes ago, Nightwatch said:

You're going to miss the boat aren't you?

 

id certainly miss ours. (would have nowhere to live for starters!).

We are. But we wont miss all of the maintenance that is involved!

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A miserable afternoon on the roof, but it was sunny.

 

Finally got a good day to change the second Houdini hatch over. After 30 years the sealing on the glass had failed on both the 50cm x 50cm hatches.

The first one was replaced last year now it was the turn of the shower room one.

Removed the old one without too much trouble, sixteen 5mm nuts and bolts hidden inside by the lining came out fairly easily, thankfully they were stainless steel.

 

New hatch is fractionally larger, same with the other one, so angle grinder and make a mess. Then I discovered that none of the 16 holes lined up with the holes in the steel work!

Had a few out of line last year but this one is ridiculous, some well out of line I could redrill the steel for but most were just half a hole wrong.

 

Why could they not drill all the holes in the frame on a jig so that they are all the same?

 

4 hours drilling, filing and tapping ensued, broke my 60 year old tap wrench too, the ally casting gave out. Got cramp on the roof, very painful.

 With the larger holes to cover I used 6mm stainless dome head allen screws.

 

But its done and last night's rain stayed outside, hurray!

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10 hours ago, Naughty Cal said:

We decided to go down to the boat after work last night to finish building up the stern drive. This time the oil seals were absolutely fine and slid onto the second shaft no problem. 

 

Total rebuild time to fit the shaft, fit new anodes, refit the props and refill with oil was 35 minutes. 

Was it possible to refurbish the damaged shaft?

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18 minutes ago, Naughty Cal said:

Yes. It has been refurbished. 

 

It was on the limit of what they would repair though.

All caused by the fishists leaving their lines behind. Not just machinery they damage but wildlife too. Just fed a swan a little bread. He had fishing line hanging from his beak which is not an unusual sight.

 

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