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Squirrel boiler


fudd

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The boiler is held in place by two large nuts on the inlet and outlet pipes, which clamp the boiler to the back of the stove.

The stove is not drilled to take the boiler. I just wasn't sure if it mattered if the boiler sat on the bottom of the grate or if it needs to be suspended as such.

Thanks.

Would it be ok to use heatproof silicone rather than fire cement to seal it?

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You got to drill the holes out with a hole saw. Gutted when I found that out.

They do one with the holes already drilled. But alas, I didn't find that out until I'd parted with my cash.

The boiler slots in on top of the grate. No need (or room) for the rear fire brick.

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You got to drill the holes out with a hole saw. Gutted when I found that out.

They do one with the holes already drilled. But alas, I didn't find that out until I'd parted with my cash.

The boiler slots in on top of the grate. No need (or room) for the rear fire brick.

Seems like I did the same then. What did you seal it with?

Thanks

Why do you want to boil squirrels?

I suppose I did ask for that!

I'm going to get the flue today. What is the best size. I've seen one with an adaptor to take it down to 4".

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Had a new one fitted for me yesterday.

 

Assuming you have a new squirrel with the heat shield on the back you need to

Remove the heat shield - this is not required with a back boiler

Locate the dimples on back of stove that mark position for the boiler pipes

Remove back firebrick and baffle plate -these are not required with a back boiler

Drill holes with a hole saw

Fit boiler ( found this was easiest by removing top from stove first)

Seal around pipes - my installer used something like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/VITCAS-Black-Fire-Cement-1250/dp/B004646CLM

Tighten nuts

 

Hope this helps

 

Rik

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A new, boiler fitted,Squirrel comes without any sealant at all round the holes- there should be a large washer under each of the boiler pipe securing nuts.

 

The boiler sits about 1/4 -3/8 inches above the grate support plate and back against the back plate of the stove.

 

Installing the boiler is easy if you take the top off, (4 bolts, replace them with hex socket capscrews in stainless so you can get it apart again) but otherwise requires the ability to solve Rubik's cube in under 3 minutes, whilst simultaneously doing origami.

 

N

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  • 2 weeks later...

We have 2 300x800 single rads and one 600x450 double. On wood it gets roasting within half an hour. I can't believe how well it works. I took Mike's (Black Rose) advice in using all four tappings on the rads and it works unbelievably well. The stove uses a bit more fuel but then it would, it's heating the whole boat now.

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Got the rads in. Can't believe how well it all works. Boxed in the pipes. I think it's neater, not very boaty though

That looks neat. Our pipes are exposed and heat the whole length of the boat. We like them like that though.

I can't help but feel you will be wasting some heat by boxing them away?

But I hope you have a cosy winter.

 

Edit: remove superfluous picture redisplay.

Edited by kendo
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The pipes are behind the panelling and in front of the insulated lining of the boat. The panelling will get warm in front of the pipes but it will only serve to help direct the heat to where I want it. ie. where I placed the rads. I don't think I will be losing any heat at all really. As I said, its not 'boaty' but neither is central heating. It's neat and tidy though, and it works.

I didn't do the calorifier in the end. To much upheaval and we have three options of hot water anyway.

Edited by fudd
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We have 2 300x800 single rads and one 600x450 double. On wood it gets roasting within half an hour. I can't believe how well it works. I took Mike's (Black Rose) advice in using all four tappings on the rads and it works unbelievably well. The stove uses a bit more fuel but then it would, it's heating the whole boat now.

 

Around 6,000btu then. You could add another small rad if neededcheers.gif

You can't beat a gravity heating system. I pump the circuit to the calorifier under the bed when I want hot water and switch the rads off.

 

Jamescheers.gif .

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  • 1 month later...

Help needed.. Struggling to remove my back boiler from morso squirrel. Any tips? Is it not really tricky taking to top off? What happens to the chimney if you do that? Sorry bit of a novice in this regard.

Thanks in advance

Chris

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Help needed.. Struggling to remove my back boiler from morso squirrel. Any tips? Is it not really tricky taking to top off? What happens to the chimney if you do that? Sorry bit of a novice in this regard.

Thanks in advance

Chris

Top comes off with 4 bolts, but you have to remove the flue first. You will probably have to grind the bolt heads off. The flue will probably go straight up if you clean out the gaps next to the top and bottom collars.

 

If that's too much then remove the door, the stove firebricks, the riddling grate and its supports then the big flat plate that supports the grate support. The boiler will then come out of the door hole. As I have said before, it helps if you can solve Rubiks cube in under 3 minutes whilst simultaneously doing origami.

 

N

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Thanks for the tips, will try the origami approach but must admit I am feeling scared. One of the pipes from the boiler has sheered off. Do you think I could get this repaired safely?

Chris

 

The water-carrying pipe has sheered off?

 

That's bad news!

 

I wouldn't bother trying to get it repaired. If it's failed that spectacularly, it's time for a new one.

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Top comes off with 4 bolts, but you have to remove the flue first. You will probably have to grind the bolt heads off. The flue will probably go straight up if you clean out the gaps next to the top and bottom collars.

 

If that's too much then remove the door, the stove firebricks, the riddling grate and its supports then the big flat plate that supports the grate support. The boiler will then come out of the door hole. As I have said before, it helps if you can solve Rubiks cube in under 3 minutes whilst simultaneously doing origami.

 

N

So I have managed to take out fire bricks - in pieces - riddling grate and supports but can't move the flat plate that supports the grate support. Is this bolted in or does it just lift out and will it come out through the front door?

Cheers

Chris

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