Accumulators advice

[davidc]

The Water system on my boat only has water pump no Accumulators.

 

I have noticed during the day and night the pump comes on for a few seconds.

My question is should I put into the water system a accumulator and

1. What size would be best i.e. 2/5/10 litre

2. Where would be best to place it before water pump or after.

Advice please

[Higgs]

The Water system on my boat only has water pump no Accumulators.

 

I have noticed during the day and night the pump comes on for a few seconds.

My question is should I put into the water system a accumulator and

1. What size would be best i.e. 2/5/10 litre

2. Where would be best to place it before water pump or after.

Advice please

 

Fit the accumulator after the pump.

 

The accumulator should stop the pump coming on at periods, unless you have a small leak. The accumulator also cuts down on pulsating delivery when using water. Can't help with the capacity.

 

Just checked the capacity of mine, it's 5 ltrs. 60' boat.

Edited September 7, 2013 by Higgs

[Kwacker]

It is due to pressure loss in the system.

Check for leaks, if none, then strip down and clean the pump.

If there isn't a filter, fit one between the tank and the pump.

The accumilator is fitted after the water pump.

[Tony Brooks]

And/Or hot water in the calorifier contracting on cooling.

 

Just make sure you adjust the pressure to suit your pump. Set to about half the cut out pressure or better still a very few PSI above the cut in pressure.

[blackrose]

And/or water backing up through the pump from the high pressure side of the system to the low pressure side.

 

I happen to think that the accumulator should be set to 3 or 4 psi below the pump's cut-in pressure. Remember to switch the pump off and open a couple of taps to release the pressure in the system before setting the accumulator pressure.

 

You don't need a full filter between the water tank and the pump, but there should be a strainer.

Edited September 7, 2013 by blackrose

[smileypete]

Should be one rated for potable water, these can be had from Ebay quite cheaply sometimes, usually coloured blue or white.

 

Confusingly the red domestic ones are usually non-potable, but some £££ marine red ones are for potable and also have a replaceable bladder.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

[DHutch]

If its chirping up because the waters passing back through the pump or hot water is cooling, that's ok, if maybe a sign of age in the pump, if its chirping up because there's a leak, its worth finding it if you can obviously.

 

That say, I would also fit an accumulator, we only have a 2l one on emilyanne but its more than enough to remove the signs your seeing, reduce the effect of opening the kitchen tap on shower temperature, and allow you to pull a glass or two of water out of the tap overnight when you have turned the pump off (because its under the main bed) !

 

I found most of the online prices quite high when looking for a replacement, and or for a much large one that we required or had space for, and ended up going to ebay.

 

 

Daniel

[davidc]

Well I checked my whole water system, and found a weep not a full leak, tightened up the joint if it is still weeping do yours recommend I put on plumbers tape on the threads or do you recommend something else, also found I do have a accumulator but only 1 litre the water still pulses do I have to turn the knob on the top to change pressure and do you know how what one turn would equal

[Nightwatch]

I seem to have lost the pressure in our accumulator. One or two of the things mentioned above are happening.

 

How do you reset the pressure? And what should it be please?

 

Martyn

[blackrose]

....the accumulator should be set to 3 or 4 psi below the pump's cut-in pressure. Remember to switch the pump off and open a couple of taps to release the pressure in the system before setting the accumulator pressure.

It should have a valve so just pump it up with a bike pump

I really do have problems with this "new" style forum. Sometimes I can't seem to type a new message once I quote someone. I do appreciate the work that everyone put into it, but in my view it was completely unnecessary to update it, especially since it's now more difficult to use.

 

Edited September 8, 2013 by blackrose

[bottle]

Well I checked my whole water system, and found a weep not a full leak, tightened up the joint if it is still weeping do yours recommend I put on plumbers tape on the threads or do you recommend something else, also found I do have a accumulator but only 1 litre the water still pulses do I have to turn the knob on the top to change pressure and do you know how what one turn would equal

 

Never known an accumulator to have a knob on the top, are you sure it is a knob and not just a cover. See below.

 

I seem to have lost the pressure in our accumulator. One or two of the things mentioned above are happening.

 

How do you reset the pressure? And what should it be please?

 

Martyn

 

On the accumulator will be a valve (looks just like a car tyre valve or mountain bike tyre valve) it may be under a cover, it will at the opposite end to the water connections.

 

The pressure is tested with car tyre pressure gauge, it should be checked with the pump turned off (electrically) and one tap usually the cold tap in the kitchen (galley) sink turned on.

 

Just inflate with a bicycle pump, you will need it to be as others have said, personally mine is at 10psi and works fine for me.

[Nightwatch]

Thanks for that. We have no leaks and the accumulator is about three or four years old.

 

I have tried 'pumping it' with a car foot pump (with pressure gauge) but can't get any air to go in. Mind you I didn't know you had to have the system de-pressurised. I will try again when we're back onboard.

 

Once again thank you.

 

Martyn

[davidc]

using good old Google

 

My set up is a Shurflo

 

Model 4902 Series Pump/Accumulator Combination

 

It looks like the knob on the top is the value

[bottle]

If i am correct then this is a pump sat on top of the accumulator and would expect the valve to be at the opposite end to the water connection on the lower (accumulator) part.

 

bottom of page three of this PDF for instructions.

[davidc]

If i am correct then this is a pump sat on top of the accumulator and would expect the valve to be at the opposite end to the water connection on the lower (accumulator) part.

 

bottom of page three of this PDF for instructions.

no

 

pump is separate and accumulator sits along side and if you notice on page 2 diagram 182-200 that's my set up

[davidc]

The joint is still weeping, as one side of the joint is the pump which is plastic I've tightened up the joint as much as dare and its still weeping not a lot, do yours recommend I put on plumbers tape on the threads or do you recommend something else.

[bottle]

no

 

pump is separate and accumulator sits along side and if you notice on page 2 diagram 182-200 that's my set up

 

In that case unless my eyes deceive me, the water connections are at the bottom of that diagram and the valve is at the top, that is where the pressure is set.

[blackrose]

The joint is still weeping, as one side of the joint is the pump which is plastic I've tightened up the joint as much as dare and its still weeping not a lot, do yours recommend I put on plumbers tape on the threads or do you recommend something else.

 

Try some PTFE tape on the threads. I like the thick gas PTFE tape in the yellow rolls and even use it for water. You only need a turn or two of the thick stuff. Put the tape on the threads in the direction of the threads going onto the joint so that the tape is not pushed off when you re-tighten the joint. If that makes any sense?

 

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p31336?utm_source=feed&utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_campaign=googleshopping&mkwid=J8PeMwew&pcrid=25046326343&gclid=CPrgvqmAv7kCFQbJtAodSz0Aig

 

Switch off the pump, depressurise the system (open a tap) and close the main water tank isolator before you start. Have a couple of old towels ready to mop up any residual water in the pipes.

 

Also, on a non-related issue, for anyone who lives aboard, if you don't have a handy switch for your water pump then fit one. Get into the habit of switching your pump off when you go out. If you're onboard and you have a leak you'll hear it, but if you're out you won't and you might come home to a flooded boat. Non-liveaboards often switch off their batteries when they leave the boat so they won't need to switch the pump off.

Edited September 9, 2013 by blackrose

[davidc]

Try some PTFE tape on the threads. I like the thick gas PTFE tape in the yellow rolls and even use it for water. You only need a turn or two of the thick stuff. Put the tape on the threads in the direction of the threads going onto the joint so that the tape is not pushed off when you re-tighten the joint. If that makes any sense?

 

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p31336?utm_source=feed&utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_campaign=googleshopping&mkwid=J8PeMwew&pcrid=25046326343&gclid=CPrgvqmAv7kCFQbJtAodSz0Aig

 

Switch off the pump, depressurise the system (open a tap) and close the main water tank isolator before you start. Have a couple of old towels ready to mop up any residual water in the pipes.

 

Also, on a non-related issue, for anyone who lives aboard, if you don't have a handy switch for your water pump then fit one. Get into the habit of switching your pump off when you go out. If you're onboard and you have a leak you'll hear it, but if you're out you won't and you might come home to a flooded boat. Non-liveaboards often switch off their batteries when they leave the boat so they won't need to switch the pump off.

good tip my water system has it own fuse at the distribution board, I think until I get the tape I'll turn off the fuse as the leek is between the pump and accumulator.

[blackrose]

Someone I know told me that advice saved him from a flood. He came back to the boat one evening, switched the pump on and found it wouldn't stop because a pipe had come loose and there was a leak. So he ended up with a gallon or two of water in the bilges, but imagine if the pump hadn't been switched off while he was out. His entire tank full of water would have been in the boat and the pump would have kept going until it burned itself out - possibly even causing a fire.

[sassan]

We have an accumulator and this still happens to us once a day in the evening as the pipes cool down. It is normal.

[DeanS]

I installed my own plumbing.

 

Water tank.

Isolation valve.

pipe to Jabsco pump.

pump to taps.

 

(no accumulator)

 

In the beginning it chattered a bit. I adjusted the pressure switch on the pump.

If the pump had to switch on for a few seconds now, and then off again, it would mean one thing. A LEAK.

I have zero water pressure issues...no spurting or air locks.

 

Although I don't have one fitted at the moment, a seperate 12V isolator switch is a good idea, so your pump doesn't self engage if you have a big leak while you're out the boat...

 

eta. DISCLAIMER.: We use gas heating for hot water...not engine heating.

Edited September 10, 2013 by DeanS

[blackrose]

I installed my own plumbing.

 

Water tank.

Isolation valve.

pipe to Jabsco pump.

pump to taps.

 

(no accumulator)

 

In the beginning it chattered a bit. I adjusted the pressure switch on the pump.

If the pump had to switch on for a few seconds now, and then off again, it would mean one thing. A LEAK.

I have zero water pressure issues...no spurting or air locks.

 

Although I don't have one fitted at the moment, a seperate 12V isolator switch is a good idea, so your pump doesn't self engage if you have a big leak while you're out the boat...

 

eta. DISCLAIMER.: We use gas heating for hot water...not engine heating.

 

But those with a calorifier and without an accumulator will find that their pump will switch on for a few seconds every time the calorifier cools down. This can happen with an accumulator in the system too, but it will happen less. I have an isolator valve fitted to my calorifier. If I suspect a small leak I just isolate the accumulator for a while and listen for the pump.

Edited September 10, 2013 by blackrose

[bizzard]

My accumulator is a Champagne bottle with a half inflated balloon inside. The pump only burps when the balloon occasionally goes off pop.

[SamKingfisher]

My accumulator is the air in the top of the hot water cylinder (horizontal) that I can't get rid of.

 

Suggestions that I get hung up in a lock, that we all stand on back deck holding elephants, that I drill and fit a bleed valve to get rid.

 

I quite like the effect, but it's working my pump too hard, too much leccy.

 

Going to try reducing the pressure on the pump.