How to give the boat a basic facelift by painting? (One layer only)

[Sven...]

I am looking to paint my boat, but without doing the full monty... Could do with some advice though.

There are plenty of discussions here and elsewhere as to how to do a complete paint job: You blast off all the old layers, apply a primer, then add three or four layers of undercoat, and finish off with two layers of top coat. Sanding between each layer, controlling the temperature and humidity, using only the finest paint products, and so on and so forth... It takes a full Summer and no doubt can give a great result.

That is fine if you have just bought the boat and if you are going to keep it for the next decade....

But my situation is the opposite. I am selling the boat.

It does not look terrible, and there are no serious issues with rust. There is no need to change the colour. But it could do with a facelift. The paint is a bit faded and uneven, and there is the inevitable scratch and repair and so on.

The whole boat is a DIY job anyway, practical but not stunning. It is intended for living aboard 365 days a year, so the glossy holiday finish would be out of place. I think a budget job will be just fine.

So... I have a few weeks to spare, and some basic DIY skills. I am thinking, it should be possible to just give the whole boat a facelift by applying a single layer of paint... or perhaps two.

This would hopefully lift the overall impression enough so the boat is presentable, find a happy buyer, and look fine for a year or two or three. A more substantial treatment can be a consideration for another soul, another time.

Sadly there seems to be no information online as to how to achieve this. So I have been doing some guesswork. Below is my preliminary plan... But there are some open questions. Any comment would be welcome.

- Paint and equipment will be found at Homebase or B&Q.. no need for specialised boat paint

- I will aim to find colours as close as possible to the existing ones

- I will start small, treating a limited area before embarking on the whole boat. Hence will soon learn if the products and process be suitable and/or if the approach needs amending (How would I know if the new paint and the old paint are compatible?)

- First I plan to wash the surface thoroughly with soap (which soap?) to get rid of dirt

- I will use a metal scrape to get off any loose paint. I would aim to avoid getting to any exposed steel, as the boat has a number of layers from before

- Any rusty spots to be treated with Locktite or similar

- Then I will rub the surface lightly with sand paper, to ensure the new layer gets a good grip (which degree sand paper?)

- Painting to be done on a dry day, not sunny nor windy

- On the morning of the actual paint job, I will treat the surface with white spirit, to ensure it is totally clean again

- Painting, using the roll and brush tip off technique

- I will decide after the one layer, if another one is required

What do you think?

S.

[MtB]

My limited experience painting is that buying cheap household paint is a bad move. Multiple coats are usually necessary with cheap paint and the consistency is often awful.

 

I suggest you buy Rylards or Craftmaster in the right colour and just paint it on with a brush. Goes on a treat and usually only needs one coat for a relatively excellent, easy and fast result.

 

MtB

[Charlotte Burnett]

If the paint is sound but dull, you don't necessarily need to prime. I would skip B&Q/Homebase paint but you needn't use a chandlery either, Johnstones and Leyland metal glosses see a lot of use on the towpath and look pretty good to my eye. Both can be found in Leyland SDM and I think Screwfix/Toolstation have started doing them as well. B&Q paint is "amateur" paint and nothing like the quality of the "professional" paints of the same brands. Perhaps pick a semi-gloss.

 

If the new paint blisters/falls off it is not compatible, if it stays in place, you are all good.

You can sugar soap (B&Q, looks like raver juice, luminous yellow) to clean/degrease.

If you use metal to scrape, you will expose bare steel, sandpaper will do.

Locktite glues nuts and bolts together, it does not prevent rust. Furtan/Vactan is what you want. I'm sure you can buy this in places other than chandleries. Then overcoat with a zinc primer (Halfords/proper metal supply shop/Screwfix probably) and feather back to similar paint surface as old finish. For best results, overcoat these areas then with thinned topcoat and allow to dry before topcoating whole boat.

For sanding, depending on the finish you have, 120-320ish - but I would speak to the paint manufacturer and see what key it requires.....the smoother the sandpaper, the achier your arm, the better the boat looks. For a utilitarian paint job, 150 might be a good compromise.

 

Painting will, most likely not be done on a not sunny, not windy, not rainy, not humid day because life is not perfect but good luck with it nonetheless!

[kevinl]

I tart mine up with a single coat of paint every couple of years as it's red the sun fades it to pink in places making it look patchy. Get some panel wipe from a car shop, this clean the surface and gets rid of grease ect ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/panel-wipe-degreaser ) like this. Quick light sand to key the surface and 1 coat with a brush or 2 with a small roller. It's best if you stick with exactly the same paint as used previously and off you go.

Edited June 10, 2013 by kevinl

[Athy]

It's best if you stick with exactly the same pains as used previously.

 

 

Yes, my arm always hurts in the same places after I've finished a sanding-down job.

[Chalky]

If the basic paint is sound but faded why not T-cut it to bring up the shine? Locally repair the areas that need it and then when the paints dry use cutting compound to bring the whole lot up to a shine and a common colour. It's the approach used in the motor trade to restore faded paint work and a lot cheaper than a repaint.

[Athy]

.....and especially useful if you want to refresh the paint around your signwriting, where a slip of the hand/ brush could disfigure the writing.

[Higgs]

It doesn't really sound as if the job of painting, to the degree you want, is worth doing.

 

Wash it and tidy the boat. Some cleaning products will take away some of the dulling and lift the paintwork a bit. No paintwork is worth doing if the surface isn't keyed up. It will peel off in short time. If you aren't used to painting, then, the effect could be worse. You may not add any value to the boat at all.

 

If it is such an obvious touch-up job, it will cause suspicion. Leave it honest and a bit run down, because it might be just right for an enthusiastic buyer. No good dressing mutton up as lamb, as they say.

 

Hard to give an paint advise for the job you intend.

[Tesla]

Somebody recently suggested to me that yacht varnish does a great job of tarting up dull paint, anyone tried this?

[Higgs]

Somebody recently suggested to me that yacht varnish does a great job of tarting up dull paint, anyone tried this?

 

Yes, but it won't last that long. And, you still need to key the surface up to even stand a chance. I've some gloss base, without pigment in it. I managed to keep that for about four years. It needs doing again now. But, I used it on the signwritten panels, while the rest of the boat was getting a more thorough job.

 

Varnish will bring back the depth of colour, it's just the longevity that's an issue. Scotch pads can be used to finely rough up the surface, before application.

 

White spirits is not ideal for cleaning, prior to painting. You need a surface wipe that evaporates quickly.

Edited June 10, 2013 by Higgs

[Tesla]

If I could avoid a full repaint for another 4 years by applying a coat of varnish I would be happy

[Higgs]

If I could avoid a full repaint for another 4 years by applying a coat of varnish I would be happy

 

I wouldn't use varnish. If you can get hold of a gloss base, without pigment, you might get your four years. Varnish needs alot of upkeep and yearly applications.

[tafelberg]

Try baby oil. (on the paintwork, not yourself)

[Tesla]

I wouldn't use varnish. If you can get hold of a gloss base, without pigment, you might get your four years. Varnish needs alot of upkeep and yearly applications.

Sorry, missed that point, thanks. Will try and give it a go on a sample area at some point, any particular brand you would recommend?

[Higgs]

Sorry, missed that point, thanks. Will try and give it a go on a sample area at some point, any particular brand you would recommend?

 

Big names. I think one was dulux. I had two different 5 ltr cans. Nothing from everything a pound. The other one, I can't remember, and it's tucked away somewhere, another prominent make. Not really sure how I came by them, but for my boat, it was worth the experiment. The rest of my boat is Mason's, and I'm happy with that also.

 

The last time I bought 5ltrs of Mason's, it was about £100.00. A few years ago. You could try other suppliers and ask them to leave the pigment out. They might think you're crazy, but as long as you're paying, they probably will oblige and refuse any guarantee, at the same time.

Edited June 10, 2013 by Higgs

[Tesla]

Big names. I think one was dulux. I had two different 5 ltr cans. Nothing from everything a pound. The other one, I can't remember, and it's tucked away somewhere, another prominent make. Not really sure how I came by them, but for my boat, it was worth the experiment. The rest of my boat is Mason's, and I'm happy with that also.

Try baby oil. (on the paintwork, not yourself)

Not sure I could face buying litres of baby oil but how long does it last out of interest?

[PaddingtonBear]

'Touching up' only makes the blemishes look worse and it always looks as though you are hiding something, so give it a good scrub and 'spiv' up and it will look an honest proposition.

[peterboat]

A couple of years ago I met with a boat that only ever cleaned his boat with diesel and oil! it looked great and hadnt been painted in years so maybe baby oil will do the same?

 

 

Peter

[blackrose]

If you want to use "domestic" paint rather than marine then choose a good brand.

 

http://www.international-paints.co.uk/products/info/10_year_exterior_gloss.jsp

 

http://www.dulux.co.uk/products/weathershield-exterior-gloss

 

Cheap gloss paints are not flexible and will crack.

[Odana]

After several experiments with reasonably priced paints for diy paint jobs I found Dulux Weathershield excellent. Satin finish not gloss makes it clean and tidy and doesn't highlight any imperfections like gloss does. Sugar soap, sand to key, wash off. Apply with roller. It is water based from b&q etc . Easy to work with and always lasted a good few years.

[Jigsawged]

After several experiments with reasonably priced paints for diy paint jobs I found Dulux Weathershield excellent. Satin finish not gloss makes it clean and tidy and doesn't highlight any imperfections like gloss does. Sugar soap, sand to key, wash off. Apply with roller. It is water based from b&q etc . Easy to work with and always lasted a good few years.

Don't roll up and down in straight lines or you will get tracks that no amount of laying off with a brush will remove. Move the roller in all directions to spread the paint then lay off up and down with a good brush and a light touch, keep the wet edge going (possibly with a conditioner, Owatrol is good). Panel wipe (suggested earlier) is a great product for final prep and not expensive, extensively used in the motor trade, it removes dust and grease and dries in seconds.

 

At the end of the day, if a job's worth doing, etc...but good luck anyway.

[pquinn]

when laying off do people have the brush dampened in white spirits.mine seems to have ridges.maybe i am going at it to hard but i either end up with orange peel or ridges.i am using about 100 mil. of owatrol to 2.5liters of paint and not painting inhot sunlight but cant seem to achieve a consistant smooth finish.maybe i am using too much paint.it is red. any help appreciated.

[Guest]

My limited experience painting is that buying cheap household paint is a bad move. Multiple coats are usually necessary with cheap paint and the consistency is often awful.

 

I suggest you buy Rylards or Craftmaster in the right colour and just paint it on with a brush. Goes on a treat and usually only needs one coat for a relatively excellent, easy and fast result.

 

MtB

I've never tried Craftmaster, but agree Rylards is good for amateur work. I would add that I used International Ten year house paint on our cabin sides, and has been fine to date. I agree that using a brush is OK; I don't seem to get along with rollers. I like Wilkinson's paint brushes (red handled ones) which are excellent for the money.

[Higgs]

when laying off do people have the brush dampened in white spirits.mine seems to have ridges.maybe i am going at it to hard but i either end up with orange peel or ridges.i am using about 100 mil. of owatrol to 2.5liters of paint and not painting inhot sunlight but cant seem to achieve a consistant smooth finish.maybe i am using too much paint.it is red. any help appreciated.

 

The brush isn't dampened with white spirits. The brush should be constantly refreshed with the colour and excess removed for laying off. This refreshing helps to keep the hairs of the brush in order. Loose or sticking out hairs should be removed. I think that trying to coat an area with a brush, prior to laying off, will be more difficult for the casual painter; it takes so much more time and speed to do.

 

A well flooded 7" gloss foam roller will adequately cover about 3 feet width by the height of an average cabin side. With painting, it is more practical to add layers than to try and wack a thick coat of paint on in one go. Orange peel is usually seen if the paint goes on too thick or the roller pattern hasn't been brushed out effectively. The paint should not feel sticky as it is applied, it should feel easy to apply. The roller should help in coating an area evenly before laying off.

 

When the paint area is applied lay off quickly and lightly, from the dry area edge, horizontally into 3" of the previous area. Then, lay off from the bottom to the hand rail edge, lightly - you don't want to be scooping paint too much. If the piant is 'wet' enough, you shouldn't need alot of pressure to lay off. Don't go over your painting to try and remove the brush marks - let the paint and gravity do its stuff - move on and don't be tempted to fiddle.

 

Your brush should have a decent spring in the hairs and want to return to a straight position when lifted off. Some brushes are hollow inside the bristle body and are weaker and may not spring back to shape. Brushes require a bit of bedding in. Bristle length of around 4".

 

I don't think it is necessary to use Owatrol. You'll never know what the piant can do if you mix unnecessary additives to a product that is already suitable for painting. You may just have to get used to the paint to get the best from it; and of course, take care with the prep work. Give the paint a flat clean surface.

 

It is not so easy controlling the environment without a workshop and Owatrol can retard the drying time in hot weather. As an x painter, there were times when I've gone home in the afternoon and come back to do the job later in the day, when conditions were better, but rarely used Owatrol.

Edited June 27, 2013 by Higgs

[pquinn]

 

The brush isn't dampened with white spirits. The brush should be constantly refreshed with the colour and excess removed for laying off. This refreshing helps to keep the hairs of the brush in order. Loose or sticking out hairs should be removed. I think that trying to coat an area with a brush, prior to laying off, will be more difficult for the casual painter; it takes so much more time and speed to do.

 

A well flooded 7" gloss foam roller will adequately cover about 3 feet width by the height of an average cabin side. With painting, it is more practical to add layers than to try and wack a thick coat of paint on in one go. Orange peel is usually seen if the paint goes on too thick or the roller pattern hasn't been brushed out effectively. The paint should not feel sticky as it is applied, it should feel easy to apply. The roller should help in coating an area evenly before laying off.

 

When the paint area is applied lay off quickly and lightly, from the dry area edge, horizontally into 3" of the previous area. Then, lay off from the bottom to the hand rail edge, lightly - you don't want to be scooping paint too much. If the piant is 'wet' enough, you shouldn't need alot of pressure to lay off. Don't go over your painting to try and remove the brush marks - let the paint and gravity do its stuff - move on and don't be tempted to fiddle.

 

Your brush should have a decent spring in the hairs and want to return to a straight position when lifted off. Some brushes are hollow inside the bristle body and are weaker and may not spring back to shape. Brushes require a bit of bedding in. Bristle length of around 4".

 

I don't think it is necessary to use Owatrol. You'll never know what the piant can do if you mix unnecessary additives to a product that is already suitable for painting. You may just have to get used to the paint to get the best from it; and of course, take care with the prep work. Give the paint a flat clean surface.

 

It is not so easy controlling the environment without a workshop and Owatrol can retard the drying time in hot weather. As an x painter, there were times when I've gone home in the afternoon and come back to do the job later in the day, when conditions were better, but rarely used Owatrol.

thanks higgs. so if i understand correctly when laying off, the brush should not be dry.i think i am using to much paint also.

thanks higgs. so if i understand correctly when laying off, the brush should not be dry.i think i am using to much paint also.

i am using a good brush.a purdy and have done a lot of prep and degreasing the underlying paint is fairly sound throughout.