Top planks

[stagedamager]

Good evening all!

A question. Does anyone know of a sawmills / timber merchant that would have some 11 x 2 or 12 x 2 timber in stock suitable for top planks? i've tried several but it seems i may have to get them machined........

Thank you in anticipation

Dan

[Speedwheel]

Sandon Sawmill near Stone - might be a bit far for you though.

[stagedamager]

thanks, i'll have a look, anything around the MK or Langley Mill areas is ideal but i can get 16' on top of the car!

Dan

[Mike Tee]

Have you tried the one outside Towcester on the way to Silverstone?

 

http://www.linnellbros.co.uk/

 

and a plus, they deliver!

 

eta: if thats 50 x 300 they do 6 metre lengths

 

(no connection other than as a customer)

Edited June 6, 2013 by Mike Tee

[BenC]

Dan

Kensworth sawmills

www​.kensworthsawmills.co.uk

in bedfordshire, about 10miles north of Hemel Hempstead

Specilists in hardwood, always got a good price for oak trims, sure that they could cut you something sutable at a competive price and not that far from you either

Ben

[stagedamager]

Thanks Mike, i'll give them a call, the appear to do 12 x 2 unseasoned, but i'll see what they have!!

Regards

Dan

Thanks Ben, I seem to remember looking at Kensworth before, and i'd totally forgotten about them!

[carlt]

Bodleys in MK might be able to sort you out.

 

Personally I'd use Larch or Douglas Fir rather than a hardwood.

 

I always used John Hall near Newark (Tel. 01636 830427) for Larch and Oak and he delivered as far as Wolfhampcote and regularly to Charity but you'd have to ask if he'd go as far as MK.

 

He was very competitive indeed and knew old narrowboats and their owners' "ways".

[stagedamager]

I had softwood in mind, and as i'm at Langley Mill next week, Newark wouldn't be too bad, i might even have a jolly over when the weather turns, as it is bound to as i have alot of jobs to do!

[Timleech]

I had softwood in mind, and as i'm at Langley Mill next week, Newark wouldn't be too bad, i might even have a jolly over when the weather turns, as it is bound to as i have alot of jobs to do!

 

Yes softwood, hardwood too heavy, but something like Douglas fir rather than run-of-the-mill cabbage wood.

 

Tim

[alan_fincher]

Could it be worth talking to Pete Boyce at Braunston?

 

(I don't know the answer to that, other than he seems to source a loit of timbers from various places, but top planks I have no idea).

[stagedamager]

European softwood appears to be swamping the market, and the quality isn't the best i have found...... to say the least. I'll check out all these suggestions, thank you all so much, i hope i find something, otherwise i'll be a bit stumped.........

 

 

coat!

[carlt]

You could try Whitmores who should have what you want but won't be the cheapest.

[David Mack]

 

Yes softwood, hardwood too heavy, but something like Douglas fir rather than run-of-the-mill cabbage wood.

 

Tim

 

This has prompted me to dig out my IWM copy of a Big Northwich drawing. That shows the top planks to be made of deal, the stands of oak and the beams of Oregon pine. Why the mix of timers, and is this typical of other boatbuilders?

[Richard T]

What about http://www.johnbrookesawmillsltd.co.uk/timber-suppliers.php on A46 south of A52 junction

[carlt]

 

This has prompted me to dig out my IWM copy of a Big Northwich drawing. That shows the top planks to be made of deal, the stands of oak and the beams of Oregon pine. Why the mix of timers, and is this typical of other boatbuilders?

The stands tended to be oak for strength and stiffness, the top planks deal for light weight and the beams a better quality softwood for stability and flexible strength.

[stagedamager]

I would have thought it was a cost versus strength thing as the stand would take a greater load than the plank which would have been supported by quarters and the beam only had a short span so could have been a lesser quality timber. Could be totally wrong though!

 

ETA

 

BEATEN!!!!

Edited June 6, 2013 by stagedamager

[carlt]

I would have thought it was a cost versus strength thing as the stand would take a greater load than the plank which would have been supported by quarters and the beam only had a short span so could have been a lesser quality timber. Could be totally wrong though!

 

ETA

 

BEATEN!!!!

The stands and masts needed the stiffness of hardwood because they take the vertical weight of the top planks.

 

The top planks were the biggest lumps that were regularly man-handled so light weight was more important than strength, especially as they are supported every 3 feet.

 

The Beams are left in place when the boat is loaded so flexural strength is important as the cargo bounces off them hence the use of a stronger softwood than white deal but less stiff than a hardwood.

[Timleech]

The stands and masts needed the stiffness of hardwood because they take the vertical weight of the top planks.

 

The top planks were the biggest lumps that were regularly man-handled so light weight was more important than strength, especially as they are supported every 3 feet.

 

The Beams are left in place when the boat is loaded so flexural strength is important as the cargo bounces off them hence the use of a stronger softwood than white deal but less stiff than a hardwood.

 

Trouble is, these days 'you can't get the wood, you know'. You'd be very lucky to find ordinary softwood (deal) of the size and quality to make safe and serviceable top planks and which don't turn into bananas within a week or two - hence the suggestion of douglas fir or similar.

 

Tim

[Chris Pink]

In my opinion it's best to buy, wherever possible, unseasoned timber and then season it yourself.

 

Makes it a lot cheaper and the moisture content can be tailored to be more appropriate to canal use.

[Pluto]

 

Trouble is, these days 'you can't get the wood, you know'. You'd be very lucky to find ordinary softwood (deal) of the size and quality to make safe and serviceable top planks and which don't turn into bananas within a week or two - hence the suggestion of douglas fir or similar.

 

Tim

For more information about timbers, have a read of 'The Wheelwrights Shop' by George Sturt. Usage could depend upon whether the tree grew in a wood, where it was faster growing with fewer branches, to hedge grown, with many branches and less straight grain. The timber varied in individual hedge-grown trees, with the wood from the north facing side of the tree having growth rings closer together, making it harder. Technical detils are just a small part of the book, which is an evocation of life in timber-working trades in the early 20th century.

[carlt]

 

Trouble is, these days 'you can't get the wood, you know'. You'd be very lucky to find ordinary softwood (deal) of the size and quality to make safe and serviceable top planks and which don't turn into bananas within a week or two - hence the suggestion of douglas fir or similar.

 

Tim

If you see my first post in the thread I recommend Larch or Douglas Fir.

 

I wouldn't make a pallet out of most of the white deal available these days and cringe when a customer has "already got the wood" and spent more on matchwood than I would on real timber.

 

I was merely explaining why they specified the different grades of timber "back in the day".

[Timleech]

If you see my first post in the thread I recommend Larch or Douglas Fir.

 

I wouldn't make a pallet out of most of the white deal available these days and cringe when a customer has "already got the wood" and spent more on matchwood than I would on real timber.

 

I was merely explaining why they specified the different grades of timber "back in the day".

 

I wasn't disagreeing, just trying to explain why you & I both suggested something 'better' than the original spec.

 

My dry-dock stop planks were always 3" thick, but in recent years I've gone to 4" for safety because the quality of timber available at reasonable cost has declined so much.

 

Tim

[PaddingtonBear]

Why not ask Mick of ECDS, he or Chris knows everyone and everything in a 50 mile radius it appears. You may well get the planks top of the car but I doubt that it will carry the weight of 4 planks although as everyone says that I am always wrong don't take my word for it.

[magnetman]

there is a demolition yard in Berkhamsted which used to sell old roof timbers. its near crooked billet bridge (i think its called that)

 

might not be there now as last time I went there (for planking a tug deck) was about 8 years ago

 

they are close to the cut and wood was priced per foot.

[chris collins]

Hi, this may be a bit late or a bit far away but may be usefull for comparison.

The last time I bought Douglas fir for top planks I used ;

Ternex Ltd
27 Ayot Green,
Welwyn,
Herts
AL6 9BA
Fax: 01707 334371

The timber was home grown, fresh sawn and of good quality, the cost for 3 X 16ft lengths of 12" X 2" was (in 2010) a tad over £140.

The timber will weigh a minimum of 33lb per cubic foot ( 6 board feet to the cube)and if fresh sawn is more likely to be around 45 - 50 lb, 3 boards may make your car a bit wobbly at the knees.

lots of luck, Chris.