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Coming to a halt - can't find the thread


rubblequeen

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Hi there was a thread recently about the best way to come into the bank to moor up which I meant to print off. Although I manage it OK this had some good hints about how it shoud be done properly. So if some kind person could either point me in the right direction or tell me again that would be very much appreciated.

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I don't remember the thread but I can describe the "normal" way I do it:

 

1. Slow right down

2. Once you're slowed down and going about 1/4 the cruising speed, steer a shallow angle towards the bank

3. Just before the nose hits the bank, steer away from the bank (so the boat goes more/less parallel to it)

(You might find that bit hard to judge and 'kiss the bank' - if you do, it will straighten the boat up anyway)

(If you're too far from the bank, steer a bit more to bring the back of the boat closer to it, to make getting off possible)

4. Use reverse to take the final amount of speed off and slow the boat to a halt, with the boat about 9 inches from the bank and parallel to it.

5. Step off with the centre line if its windy/if there's a shelf/if you need more time to find mooring pins etc etc. Otherwise just tie up front and back. If you have another crew member, get them to secure front first because if the back does drift out, you can drive it back in - and you can do the back as soon as they've done the front

 

Beware that in step 4, if you use lots of reverse the water you've moved around, will push the boat away from the bank again. Hence why you'd take most of the speed off in step 1

  • Greenie 1
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Unless you know that there's deep enough water to include the ''deeper'' stern end of your boat by the particular bit of bank you want to moor at, I would nose the bow end in and bring the boat to a ''stop'' then shove the tiller over with a bit of forward gear revs to bring the stern in. If you have forward motion on and try to come alongside parallel and it happens to be shallow you are liable to tilt the boat over and perhaps become grounded.

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Hi there was a thread recently about the best way to come into the bank to moor up which I meant to print off. Although I manage it OK this had some good hints about how it shoud be done properly. So if some kind person could either point me in the right direction or tell me again that would be very much appreciated.

Hi

 

There are many ways to come alongside and it may well be different in each location. Things to consider are depth of water, flow of water is a major point when on rivers, the wind again a major factor. Single handed or with crew, experience and ages of crew etc. Length of boat and beam also enters the equation, number of propulsion engines. I think practice is the only real way to define the methods any particular person will use. There are several correct ways to do it.

 

Tim

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Unless you know that there's deep enough water to include the ''deeper'' stern end of your boat by the particular bit of bank you want to moor at, I would nose the bow end in and bring the boat to a ''stop'' then shove the tiller over with a bit of forward gear revs to bring the stern in. If you have forward motion on and try to come alongside parallel and it happens to be shallow you are liable to tilt the boat over and perhaps become grounded.

 

Quite true. I didn't want to overcomplicate it though! (And our boat isn't deep drafted, so tends not to get stuck).

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bring in the bow at a shallow angle grab center rope and pull in,then jump back on quickly because its still in gear then stick it in reverse and rev hard which will bring the boat across the canal.again jump off and pull really hard for 10 mins and the boat will be moored

Edited by mickp
  • Greenie 2
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Unless you know that there's deep enough water to include the ''deeper'' stern end of your boat by the particular bit of bank you want to moor at, I would nose the bow end in and bring the boat to a ''stop'' then shove the tiller over with a bit of forward gear revs to bring the stern in. If you have forward motion on and try to come alongside parallel and it happens to be shallow you are liable to tilt the boat over and perhaps become grounded.

 

If you have crew stepping off the front with a line, see if you can get them to let the line run slack while you bring the stern in. I'm trying to train my crews to do this so I'm not trying to turn the boat against them pulling on the line

 

bring in the bow at a shallow angle grab center rope and pull in,then jump back on quickly because its still in gear then stick it in reverse and rev hard which will bring the boat across the canal.again jump off and pull really hard for 10 mins and the boat will be moored

 

This is our normal method, tried and tested blush.png

 

Richard

Edited by RLWP
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If you have crew stepping off the front with a line, see if you can get them to let the line run slack while you bring the stern in. I'm trying to train my crews to do this so I'm not trying to turn the boat against them pulling on the line

 

 

This is our normal method, tried and tested blush.png

 

Richard

You can try teaching crews that till the cows come home. I wouldn't jump off with it still in gear! especially if solo. If you trip a--e over apex and let go the rope your boat is liable to arrive at your destination before you, or back where you started from.

  • Greenie 2
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One dodge that works on some boats when trying to slow in reverse.

 

As has been said, doing this often causes the stern to be pushed out from the bank by the prop wash. To help avoid this, try pushing the tiller over away from the bank at around 45 degrees. The exact angle needs trial and error for any given boat.

 

It doesn't work on all boats, and won't work if you rev too hard in astern, but is pretty reliable on my boat and some others I've tried.

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One dodge that works on some boats when trying to slow in reverse.

 

As has been said, doing this often causes the stern to be pushed out from the bank by the prop wash. To help avoid this, try pushing the tiller over away from the bank at around 45 degrees. The exact angle needs trial and error for any given boat.

 

It doesn't work on all boats, and won't work if you rev too hard in astern, but is pretty reliable on my boat and some others I've tried.

 

Does your boat steer in reverse?

 

I have found that at certain speeds, I can steer the boat in reverse, by using a lot of rudder, its a very weak steering effect though.

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Hi Paul. Yes, our boat does steer in reverse, it also steers when drifting forwards with no power. I think both these facts are connected, and are probably also connected to the "dodge" I referred to in my previous post.

 

I'm unsure what characteristics of the shell make the difference between boats that are good in these ways and ones that are not. I think a properly balanced rudder is probably one factor, and I guess that good, long swims fore & aft are relevant too.

 

Our boat was built by the son of an old boatman, from a family of working boaters, that may be relevant too!

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  • 3 months later...

Reposted from 'Using a bow spring'. Have started to use a single handed 'reverse parking' technique that involves stopping the boat with the bow pointing about 30° away from the bank about 1/2 to 3/4 of a boats length forward of where I want to be. Engage reverse bringing the stern into the bank, putting the tiller hard over towards the bank to keep the rudder from catching on any obstructions, then slide backwards along the bank to your final position, which brings the bow in as you go. A touch of forward to stop, then step off with centre and stern lines in hand. Touch up the paintwork on the stern. No bollards, rings, hooks or springs required. Seems to work pretty well even with shallow waters, moderate offshore wind, or getting into a tight mooring spot. Not so good if you're headed by wind or current. Once alongside I often use a centreline as a spring with the boat in forward trickleover and the tiller lashed over towards the bank as a temporary mooring on a lock landing or in a wide lock.

Edited by Peter & Maureen H
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