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I'm pleased to have acquired a Samofa 2-S-108 twin cylinder diesel and 2:1 marine gearbox, removed as a runner from a small Dutch barge a few years ago. Mine's in a bit of a state but I'm told it's fundamantally sound. Mine looks rather like this:

 

 

 

 

And here's a nicely done up one:

 

 

Does anybody know much about these? In particular, mine has a 2:1 transmission but Googling shows they also came with 1:1 transmissions. The reduction gear is an extra bit bolted onto the tail of the gearbox, like in the first video. Removing it to convert mine to 1:1seems to require a different output shaft housing. Does anyone know of any Samofa specialists in the UK who might have such a part, and/or know how easy/difficult the conversion would be?

 

There seems to be a fair bit written about Samofas on the net, but it's all in Dutch!

 

 

MtB

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They seem to have some link with Mitsubishi Heavy Industries BV according to this page http://www.diamonddiesels.co.uk/samofa_ref.html where they are listed as the OEM for several engines in the Mitsubishi range. Diamond Diesels are the UK agent for Mitsubishi Heavy Industries BV. I'm not suggesting that they will have any current info on your engine but it might be a possible contact number to start to chase down info.

Roger

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They seem to have some link with Mitsubishi Heavy Industries BV according to this page http://www.diamonddiesels.co.uk/samofa_ref.html where they are listed as the OEM for several engines in the Mitsubishi range. Diamond Diesels are the UK agent for Mitsubishi Heavy Industries BV. I'm not suggesting that they will have any current info on your engine but it might be a possible contact number to start to chase down info.

Roger

 

That ties in with what I've read. Samofa were a Dutch diesel engine manufacturer taken over by Mitsubishi in the '80's. Check out this page.

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Fairly rudimentary Dutch engine held in some affection there as we do Lister JP2s. We come across them from time to time. Easy enough to restore but little or no parts support so can cost a bit to fix. The ones built for marine use from new are generally blue in colour. The grey ones are usually industrial variants which were popular on water pumps. They can be a bitch to start in cold weather. The electric start variants are the ones to have. Prone to smoke when even only slightly worn. But different to the usual Lister and Gardner blobs of grey and green. I like them. There are a couple in the warehouse in Holland where our future engines are kept. You could equate them to a Petter PH2 for example.

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Thanks for the info Martin.

 

Mine appears to be a marine version having the gearbox, but it is hand start only. The original paint is a delightful eau-de-nil green, followed by blue, then silver. I think I might paint it a nice shade of rich pink, like rhubarb and custard.

 

I'm sure it will start just fine in the cold with enough Ezystart and a blowlamp. It smokes like a good-un when ticking over (apparently) but is fine under load. But we'll see.

 

Interestingly it has no water pump or alternator. Even so I like it a lot, it's such a simple engine where you can see what the hell is going on. The antithesis of a modern sewing machine... :)

 

Now, I wonder who can I get to rebuild the Gleniffer...

 

MtB

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But I might not....



But I have succumbed to the GURL trait of naming cars, bikes, engines etc. The Samofa is officially called Samantha now.

 

Samantha the Samofa. Fits quite well with Jennifer the Gleniffer dunnit! What does the board think?

 

 

MtB

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It's spelled SAMOSA.

Dur, BOYS.

Funny you should say that Star. Leaking hot coolant-antifreeze from a hot engine smells just like Curry.

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But I might not....

But I have succumbed to the GURL trait of naming cars, bikes, engines etc. The Samofa is officially called Samantha now.

 

Samantha the Samofa. Fits quite well with Jennifer the Gleniffer dunnit! What does the board think?

 

 

MtB

Ah, the ever delightful Samantha.

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They seem to have some link with Mitsubishi Heavy Industries BV according to this page http://www.diamonddiesels.co.uk/samofa_ref.html where they are listed as the OEM for several engines in the Mitsubishi range. Diamond Diesels are the UK agent for Mitsubishi Heavy Industries BV. I'm not suggesting that they will have any current info on your engine but it might be a possible contact number to start to chase down info.

Roger

 

Hi Roger,

 

the co-operation between SAMOFA and MITSUBISHI started after these engines were made, and they were much faster running engines 3000n

 

The SAMOFA S-108 series single and twin cylinders gave 10 Hp per cylinder @ 1000n- 12.5Hp @ 1250n and max 15Hp @ 1500n.

 

The name SAMOFA stands for SA= samenwerkende= co-operative, MO=motoren=engines, FA= fabriek=factory

 

The engine factories that were responsible for the SA in SAMOFA, they were all wellknown famous Dutch engine builders :

 

BRONS - BOLNES - INDUSTRIE and KROMHOUT

 

My SAMOFA 2-S-108 that I had in the for sale section a while ago, and that's now in the back of my little Caddy van, on the way tomorrow to it's new owner in the very North of Holland has a starter ring gear, and could be started by hand or startermotor, I sold her for only 400 €, which is a bargain due to the lack of storage space.

 

Peter.

 

 

Edited by bargemast

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Hi Roger,

 

the co-operation between SAMOFA and MITSUBISHI started after these engines were made, and they were much faster running engines 3000n

 

The SAMOFA S-108 series single and twin cylinders gave 10 Hp per cylinder @ 1000n- 12.5Hp @ 1250n and max 15Hp @ 1500n.

 

The name SAMOFA stands for SA= samenwerkende= co-operative, MO=motoren=engines, FA= fabriek=factory

 

The engine factories that were responsible for the SA in SAMOFA, they were all wellknown famous Dutch engine builders :

 

BRONS - BOLNES - INDUSTRIE and KROMHOUT

 

My SAMOFA 2-S-108 that I had in the for sale section a while ago, and that's now in the back of my little Caddy van, on the way tomorrow to it's new owner in the very North of Holland has a starter ring gear, and could be started by hand or startermotor, I sold her for only 400 €, which is a bargain due to the lack of storage space.

 

Peter.

 

 

Agreed Peter, that's why I only suggested that it was a starting point to track down sources of information (and a bit of a long shot at that!). I don't think anyone could believe that Mitsubishi would have had any link with the design of engine that we're talking about in this thread. happy.png

Roger

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Fairly rudimentary Dutch engine held in some affection there as we do Lister JP2s. We come across them from time to time. Easy enough to restore but little or no parts support so can cost a bit to fix. The ones built for marine use from new are generally blue in colour. The grey ones are usually industrial variants which were popular on water pumps. They can be a bitch to start in cold weather. The electric start variants are the ones to have. Prone to smoke when even only slightly worn. But different to the usual Lister and Gardner blobs of grey and green. I like them. There are a couple in the warehouse in Holland where our future engines are kept. You could equate them to a Petter PH2 for example.

 

 

On the Dutch SAMOFA site : www.samofa.nl there was a question about the color of the engines : the answer was :

 

De S108 serie 1 & 2 cylinder hebben als standaard kleur groen (hamerslag groen).= standard color is green (hammered green)
Het kan zijn dat de eerste jaren “gewoon” groen gebruikt werden. = It's possible that during the first years "ordinarry" green was used.
Op verzoek van de klant werden ook andere kleuren gebruikt (o.a blauw) = At clients request, different colors were used (e.g.bleu)

 

64cedf5154063c4872ae77d26f614ea6.jpg

 

6106e60deb33532a9fecbb1dc3d8bab2.jpg

 

Peter.

Edited by bargemast

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Does anyone have any info about the injector pump on this?

 

Lifting out the tiny oil level dipstick on the side of it reveals an orange blob of rusty oil or water on the end, so I'm imagining I'll need to dismantle and clean it at least. I'd like to find a manual for it ideally.

 

Here are some pics of it...

 

 

NewImage5_zps42174b30.jpg

 

NewImage3_zps9ebf9f79.jpg

 

NewImage2_zps8fd95edb.jpg

 

 

The two data plates don't reveal anything meaningful for me to Google.

 

Am I going to get into deep trouble taking it off and to bits? I suppose I'm most concerned about capturing the timing setting, and getting the timing right when putting it back on really...

 

MtB

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How about giving it to Tony Redshaw to rebuildrolleyes.gif

 

The engine or the governor?

 

I don't think Tony does much work now which, I'm told, is why their reputation is waning.

 

Or were you havin a larf? I'd ask RLWP as first choice actually...

 

 

MtB

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I would take the pump/governor assembly to a fuel injection specialist, one that still understands older kit, it should then be 'right' but might not be cheap.

 

Tim

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I would take the pump/governor assembly to a fuel injection specialist, one that still understands older kit, it should then be 'right' but might not be cheap.

 

Tim

 

Thanks Tim, but I'm not sure I like that word 'should' in there....

 

I might just try replacing the orange water with oil and see if the engine fires up, having now rigged it up on a trolley with a fuel tank and the Dynastart mounted.

 

Or should the oil be diesel?

 

MtB

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Does anyone have any info about the injector pump on this?

 

 

Am I going to get into deep trouble taking it off and to bits? I suppose I'm most concerned about capturing the timing setting, and getting the timing right when putting it back on really...

 

MtB

 

Externally it's very similar to a CAV BPE pump with a governor. Try googling Bosch PE diesel injection pump- there's quite a bit of info there albeit not all of it is in English!.

 

 

Internally, since it's a Bosch and they invented diesel injection control by the rotated helix groove, it will work like a CAV pump. CAV parts might even fit, but if not there will be pattern parts out there. Any decent diesel injection specialist should be able to take it apart and re-assemble it. (Try SMS in Buckingham 01280 816 090 or Peter Slater if you don't have a favourite already). I don't think it is a good idea to take it apart yourself because the post assembly tests need some quite specialist kit to check that the relative timing is right (the absolute timing is done on-engine and is easy if you know what it should be) and the elements are delivering the same amount on each injection, for examples.

 

If you don't know what the engine timing should be you can ( if the pump is internally good enough to pass/hold diesel) spill time the engine and then make a timing mark on a suitable rotating part.

 

In the meantime I'd drain and refill the oil reservoir to the top with diesel. That should stop anything getting worse.

 

Seaward engineering might rebuild the Glennifer.

 

N

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The 2-S-108 has a standard Bosch injector pump and should be straightforward to recondition. We get lots of Bosch injector pumps from Kromhouts done without any problems. Expect to pay around £250 to £300 to get a pump overhauled properly.

 

Samofas are like buses and all come along at once. We have a 2-S-108 en route to us this month to be marinised which makes a change from Gardners and Lister JPs. We have also had a guy trying to sell us eight of them which he has squirrelled away.

 

Be careful when overhauling them as parts are not easy to get and can be expensive. It is easy to spend more than the engine is worth when doing a full restoration.

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Hi Mike

 

Dick Goble, the Kelvin guru, uses the sort of injector specialist that Tim refers to, they serviced our injector pump some years back. It cost about £180, I think. PM me if I can help further

 

Cheers

 

Dave

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