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I had a lot of trouble getting a completely watertight connection on a new accumulator, despite massive amounts of PTFE tape. The threads were parallel.

 

I was told they are designed to work with a tap connector, so seal with a fibre washer on the end, and the threads not then needing to seal.

 

That sounds right to me, and is how I would do another, with the advantage you could use a flexible tap connector and have flexibility in positioning it.

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I had a lot of trouble getting a completely watertight connection on a new accumulator, despite massive amounts of PTFE tape. The threads were parallel.

 

I was told they are designed to work with a tap connector, so seal with a fibre washer on the end, and the threads not then needing to seal.

 

That sounds right to me, and is how I would do another, with the advantage you could use a flexible tap connector and have flexibility in positioning it.

A tip top, top tip. Like it - lots.

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Sealing a parallel thread connection with tape will always be a bodge! As Alan says, it should seal on the end face so use a tap connector, but you don't necessarily need to use a flexible hose one - you can get plastic plumbing fittings that go from tap fitting straight into plastic pipe.

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Mine is now done with gas tape, but had a slight weep the first time I did it, even though I used loads. It now seals, having piled loads of tape on, but I wouldn't do it that way again.

 

If you do, and your threads are parallel, (which I think they will be), you need to try and build up a taper with the tape, so wind on a lot more ontto the end of the thread that will be screwing in last.

 

But I'd still buy a tap connector to fit, unless like me, you are at the boat, and want to try and make it work with existing materials, and not having to go somewhere to buy bits.

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unless like me, you are at the boat, and want to try and make it work with existing materials, and not having to go somewhere to buy bits.

 

OMG. If I had confessed to doing something like that, the forum would have castrated me and hung me out in public as an example of what happens to rebels...

 

clapping.gif

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OMG. If I had confessed to doing something like that, the forum would have castrated me and hung me out in public as an example of what happens to rebels...

 

clapping.gif

Again, I'm not sure I really have the proper tools for a castration, so I'm afraid this could be a bit of a bodge........

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Again, I'm not sure I really have the proper tools for a castration, so I'm afraid this could be a bit of a bodge........

I've got some rather effective cable cutters if you wish to borrow them - - - - -

 

They'll sort out 3/16" stainless cable without difficulty (not suggesting that anyone's appendages are connected with s.steel you understand - but it's just a reference point)

 

And thanks for your update on the plumbing question, Alan

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For sealing parallel threads I use Fernox LSX jointing compound, as directed, Loctite 55 is supposed to be good.

 

Using flexibles is a good tip, WRAS certified flexis are supposed to be better for potable water than the el-cheapo ones.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

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