stagedamager Posted November 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2012 Once again, many thanks Carl, you're a lifesaver!! Nice to meet you. Regards Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagedamager Posted November 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 So, here we go with part 2 of 3 of the rudder build, part 3 will be the cutting and chopping around when it doesn't fit fitting onto the boat, in a few weeks. This concentrates on finishing and pintles. Thanks to Carlt i have gained an original cast iron top rudder pintle, which is mentioned earlier on. A jolly up to Rugby to pick it up, with Lily-Mae in tow happened mid week, and then i set to work replacing the back end which had been cut off: The round bar added has been welded on with Nickel rods, and seems nice and strong. Just in case though, i have added a length of 10mm threaded rod through the middle. Now, this is too long, but i shall cut to length once fitted, rather than risk cutting too short, which is what i would probably do!! The other big job is making sure it is watertight. I do this by using an air compressor, which shows a couple of gaps in the welding. A bit of grinding and re-welding, and all seems to be good. But, just in case i have missed a hairline gap, i give the seams a cover of Marineflex, before giving the bottom half a nice coat of Bitumen. Whilst it is flat on the trestles, i also take the oppurtunity to highlight the lettering recessed into the rudder stock. Once flipped, the same is done to the other side, grinding, marineflex-ing, and bitumen-ing. Whilst this is drying, i take the time to do some work on the tiller. This was one we gained from Nurser's 'Hazel' which we raised in the early 90's when she had a section 8 notice on her. The rudder had been taken off, so no tiller was needed!! It had been built with a bizarre kick in the end of it: So, a bit of time with me, the tiller and a trusty bandsaw reshaped the end. Also, i fabricated a socket to weld in the stock once the rudder is hung on the boat and the cabin is on, so as to ensure the end of the tiller sits just higher than the cabin. The final job is the lower pintle. Now, i have always said that i would leave the pintles until it is fitted to the boat, but, knowing the distance from the top of the lower pintle socket to the bottom of the hull meant that i could attach it, with a tolerance for movement. As the lower pintle is mainly a guide as the top one takes the load, i reckon, this will work, and also help guide the rudder when trying to work out the position of the top pintle, as the sideways motion will all but disappear, leaving just the up and down position to deal with. The pintle is made with a couple of 4mm steel plates, some 50mm 5mm flat bar, bent round the plates, and some 30mm round bar. This is welded to the top plate, and passes through the bottom plate: So there we have it, all the parts are made, the rudder itself is primed, and ready to go on the hull, all that's needed is one of those arty farty shots mocking up what it may look like, when all bits are on.... (before anyone says, this was taken before the tiller had been painted!!) Also, i think the top pintle may need a bit of heat to slightly alter the angle, but we'll know more once we try it on the hull! One Rudder..... Done!! Regards Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timleech Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 (edited) Good work, but a couple of points - The top pintle will almost certainly be wrought iron, not cast, so no need for expensive nickel rods to weld it. It also means that it will be adjustable with a bit of heat, while 'adjusting' cast iron is rather tricky (can be done to a limited degree). The bottom pintle is the one which takes the weight, in every case that I have seen. Tim Edited November 14, 2012 by Timleech Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagedamager Posted November 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 Cheers Tim, i take your point about wrought vs cast, thank you for pointing it out, also regarding the pintles, have i just got this the wrong way round then? In which case i think i need to invest in a couple of cutting discs to make it a bit more accurate!!! Many thanks Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timleech Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 Cheers Tim, i take your point about wrought vs cast, thank you for pointing it out, also regarding the pintles, have i just got this the wrong way round then? In which case i think i need to invest in a couple of cutting discs to make it a bit more accurate!!! Many thanks Dan Yes, the bottom socket should take the form of a cup, to take the weight, while the top one is just a hole in the top of the stern post. If the top pintle takes the weight, it'll be dragging across the top of the stern post which you don't want. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagedamager Posted November 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 (edited) Hi Tim, I think this is where my confusion has come from. On the back end, the lower pintle socket is just a hole, not a cup: So should there have been an insert in there or originally, would the lower pintle bracket on the rudder have rubbed on the casting? Dan ETA: Ignore the BW push tug bashing!!!! Edited November 14, 2012 by stagedamager Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onionbargee Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 i'm interested why you didn't make the rudder out of wood, wouldn't it have been a lot easier ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timleech Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 Hi Tim, I think this is where my confusion has come from. On the back end, the lower pintle socket is just a hole, not a cup: Maybe they did things differently on the BCN, though if so I wasn't aware of it. Most of my experience in these matters has been with long distance boats, though I have dealt with the odd BCN type rudder including making a new (wooden) one but that was a long time ago, I might have just been confusing you. The only different style that comes to mind is some GU boats had a big threaded stud in the top of the stern post, with a nut to hold the rudder down. With the traditional style, with the weight on the bottom cup, it's important that the top pintle has significantly more engagement than the bottom one. This is so that if the rudder is dislodged - say by riding over a lump in the bottom of the canal - it comes out of the bottom but not the top, and hangs limply & hopefully suffers minimal damage. They would also often have a chain attaching them to the stern stud to stop the rudder being lost if both pins jumped out. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagedamager Posted November 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 i'm interested why you didn't make the rudder out of wood, wouldn't it have been a lot easier ? Possibly, but it was cheaper to buy the steel than the wood. And I fancied the challenge!! That and if in the future I decide to fit a small hydraulic drive for lock flights etc....the work involved is significantly less. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timleech Posted November 15, 2012 Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 Possibly, but it was cheaper to buy the steel than the wood. And I fancied the challenge!! That and if in the future I decide to fit a small hydraulic drive for lock flights etc....the work involved is significantly less. Dan On reflection, whatever the pin arrangement, I'd expect the weight to be taken on the bottom - though in your case on the top of the bottom socket. Also if you have a long bottom pin, you'll also want a long top pin, because the last thing you want is for the top to jump out and leave the rudder - its weight and any forces from movement through the water - to be twisting it around the bottom pintle. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagedamager Posted November 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 Thanks Tim, the pin was always to be chopped down once fitted, but it'll change it's position now anyway. I've got the jump chains, they just need to be cut to length. Regarding the weight, kilo for kilo there's only a few kilos in it compared to building out of wood!! Regards Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagedamager Posted March 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 Evening all, as its been a few weeks i thought i'd post an update. So we're still waiting for a slot on Dock for a new bottom and footings. i'm not really in that much of a rush as we still have 'Judith Anne' to finish, and also my wife is due to give birth in 3 1/2 weeks..... everything comes at once doesn't it!!!! Once the bottom and footings are done, i have a datum to work to. First job will be the gunnels. I have no option other than to use what is now there, as all original has gone. So this is my plan. I shall remove the spot welded angle, and run a catenary wire between the two sections of original gunnel that are left. By using thin steel wire rope (1mm) i can get more tension, the sag will be slight in the middle but by careful measuring i can work out the heights i need. The next job is to weld supports for the angle to sit on. I would like to think ultimately i shall have these in line with the knees, which have also, all but disappeared.... once the brackets are welded on i can reset the angle on top. Now there are two schools of thought for this. one is to have the inside edges flush, the other the outside. The hull is 1/4", the steel 10mm. i have opted to have the insides flush, and then bevel the bottom edge with a circ. saw and then blend in to replace the rubbing strake which is gone gone gone......... i can get 75x8 square edge convex bar but only in a 10 ton minimum order so this is the most feasable option.once this is done, i will get the trusty circ. saw, stick the fence on, and cut the hull 20mm below the bottom edge of the gunnel angle. This allows me to get rid of any gas axing residue, and i have a parallel strip to inset a piece of flat bar in. it's gonna be a bit of a bugger, but ho hum, such is life, i knew the work when i took it on..... once thats all done i can look at putting some bulkheads on, all before she is off dock. I'm also going to get them to pull her in a bit, as she is a bit wide.....! Here's some pictures to show you what i'm up against!!! Regards Dan Where's my knees gone?? More knee problems! The gunnel debarcle! More gunnel debarcle.. Back to knees... TEMPORARY recycled side cloths!! Let the fun begin!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chop! Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 A great job there Dan, make sure you've got a bloody good chain attached in case it comes unseated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagedamager Posted May 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 (edited) So, i finally have a date for dry dock!!! She will be going on after Whitsun bank holiday for bottom and footings, so i thought i would create a blog page to centralise all pages, should anyone wish to follow, it can be found here: http://nbbcn1645.wordpress.com/home/ Regards Dan Edited May 12, 2013 by stagedamager Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagedamager Posted May 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 The latest musings and ramblings from the blog... http://nbbcn1645.wordpress.com/2013/05/28/boats-beer-tents-and-missing-tools/ Regards Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagedamager Posted June 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 Works have commenced! There are some updates on my blog, of the first few days. Follow the link in my signature, and i'll update as and when i can! Regards Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagedamager Posted June 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 some more musings and ramblings: http://nbbcn1645.wordpress.com/2013/06/13/restoration-day-4/ http://nbbcn1645.wordpress.com/2013/06/14/restoration-day-5/ http://nbbcn1645.wordpress.com/2013/06/15/restoration-day-6/ Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagedamager Posted July 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 The latest musings and ramblings hot from the Langley Mill Dock!! http://nbbcn1645.wordpress.com/2013/07/01/braunston-boats-beer-and-a-bottom-for-sale-only-4-careful-owners/ Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagedamager Posted August 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Evening all! The latest blog update is here! http://nbbcn1645.wordpress.com/2013/08/04/a-waterproof-bottom-and-an-ell-of-an-ellum/ Including a brief sojourn onto the water and the hanging of the rudder at long last!!! Enjoy! Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagedamager Posted August 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 So after several weeks, she is finally rebottomed! Great work by Pete and Derek at Langley Mill, no more concrete, gunnels back up and a slightly narrower base plate!! Now the fun can really begin!! All photos copyright H Cauldwell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagedamager Posted June 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 Afternoon all, here's the latest from the blog! So, as mentioned a few months ago, we sadly put 1645 on the market and get the word out that she was for sale. Since then, and after little interest, we have recommenced work on her, after finding a way of funding her (work promotion!). Having said that, if the right offer came along and all that................ So, in March she went on dock with the wooden tug ‘Judith Anne’ which was being re-caulked. This gave us a chance to give her a good blacking and reinstate the ends of the guard irons at the front end. These had been removed years ago, and replaced with some rather crude imitation guard sections, so i fabricated some ends. They are basically 8mm plate and some tapered tube. So many times the blunt ended guards caught on things, so i’ve given them a bit of shape, to ensure no catching activities follow! We also gave her a quick lick of Gloss around the front and back end as psychologically it makes a big difference: Moving forward to a few weeks ago, and having re designed the layout, I decided to remodel the forecabin, as the girls will now be sleeping in the back cabin extension. We lost about 8″ off the height and 2′ off the length, so it follows the kick of the hull, no nice delicate sweep on this fore-end! Overall it is a better looking cabin than before, but slightly less practical for a fitout, nothing we can’t deal with though! We’ve also started putting some floors in the hold. These are reclaimed plywood sheets as a temporary floor, but actually, we quite like them so are going to keep them! The top planks have also been ordered from Hingley’s Timber Yard in Derbyshire, and i’m currently placing an order for a new set of cloths. The guys at Langley Mill boatyard are welding the rear cabin on for me, as, realistically, i haven’t enough time to do it myself. So, hopefully, in a few weeks she is going to look like a boat again! Regards for now, Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagedamager Posted June 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 As it's been a year, i thought i would post an update. Here's a link to the latest updates form the blog, feel free to visit and have a read! https://nbbcn1645.wordpress.com/ She is coming along nicely, and is now beginning to look like a boat again, little by little we're getting there!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bargemast Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 Excellent job Dan, you can be very proud of yourself for all this beautiful work, and it's even getting better all the time. Peter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bee Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 Seems a shame to put it on a beaten up joey, a bit of plate and some angle iron and you could have a new boat .... sorry only joking, good luck, its a worthy project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagedamager Posted June 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 It may be a beaten up Joey but it's our beaten up Joey. ;)I'd also need some non standard rivets for the new build too!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Featured Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now