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Putting in a stove


Chrisy

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Hi all,

 

Having had several problems with my heating I have decided to put in a multi fuel stove.

 

All the stuff I think I need has now arrived but having never put in a stove I am at a bit of a loss with parts.

 

Can anyone tell me the correct way to put together the flu kit and stove. Its really the joints that i'm not sure what to do with.

 

The flu kit has

 

chimney collar for the roof

some lagging

sealent

reducer

and flu

 

I think my question really is which bits do I put the sealent on and what has the lagging ????

 

Sorry if this is a basic question but I only want to do it once :unsure:

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Most people slot the pipes into the collars and then pack with glass fibre rope to make a gas tight seal. The next stage is open to discussion. Many then pack the remainder of the joint with fire cement but i find it tends to crack with pipe expansion and contraction. I use high temperature silicon that may not be rated for the temperates a runaway stove could reach but many of us have had no problems using it. I packed above and below the roof collar.

 

I would be more concerned about how you intend to "fire proof" the areas around the stove and also the the roof lining. I have cut a square out of the roof lining giving at least 6" clearance between chimney and any wood. I replaced the roof insulation in that area with rockwool/glass fibre and then use a fireproof board to make a new ceiling.

 

If the stove is not on legs then I would be concerned about the stove setting the floor on fire. A single layer of tiles over a combustible board is not enough.

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For the back of the stove I am putting a 30mm air gap then heat board then tiles.

For the bottom I anm putting an air gap then heat board, then a cement board and tiling.

 

I have purchased a brass collar for the internal roof lining and intend to cut back the insulation at least 3 inches from the hole and repack with something like fire proof natural wool (if I can source it.

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For the back of the stove I am putting a 30mm air gap then heat board then tiles.

For the bottom I anm putting an air gap then heat board, then a cement board and tiling.

 

I have purchased a brass collar for the internal roof lining and intend to cut back the insulation at least 3 inches from the hole and repack with something like fire proof natural wool (if I can source it.

 

 

Natural wool can never be fireproof. Just find some loft insulation of the rockwool variety. It might melt but it can not catch fire. I got mine from a skip where renovations were being done.

 

I looked the the brass rings for the roof and felt they did allow enough gap[e between wood and pipe for my liking, but many people use them.

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Natural wool can never be fireproof. Just find some loft insulation of the rockwool variety. It might melt but it can not catch fire. I got mine from a skip where renovations were being done.

 

I looked the the brass rings for the roof and felt they did allow enough gap[e between wood and pipe for my liking, but many people use them.

 

Someone had mentioned the wool but your way seems much better. Thank you very much for the advice.

 

Now to cut a hole in the roof :rolleyes:

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[quote name='Tony Brooks' timestamp='1351351384' post='963952'

 

Just find some loft insulation of the rockwool variety. It might melt but it can not catch fire. I got mine from a skip where renovations were being done.

 

 

I used some 1" thick rockwool bats that I got from wickes. Being like boards they were easier to fit which lining out and less likely to sag. I used them to insulate the boat round the stove, the rest was done using fire retardant polystyrene.

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Someone had mentioned the wool but your way seems much better. Thank you very much for the advice.

 

Now to cut a hole in the roof :rolleyes:

 

Woah, before cutting a hole check that there are no cross members or other braces behind the head lining or you might end up cutting through them as well

 

Phil

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Thanks for that. I have been using the soliftec guide but It has still left me a bit unsure about the sealent and lagging on the joints.

Would think the important sealing job was to get the collar sealed to the roof.

If thats wrong you will have to take everything out to get to it!

Plus the location of the hole might be important too - angle and bends in the flue?

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  • 9 years later...

I had my stove on runaway tonight. It was quite windy outside, but not the worst ever, the fire was a log on top of coals, not abnormal, but fire went red hot.

I put two fire blankets over the door, also closed the vents. I had a kettle on top of stove to retain fire blankets. Soon boiling. 

Not sure what more I could do to close down the fire obviously some oxygen was getting in, but once it gets hold is there another blanket type, or similar to use. 

I did not fancy opening door to throw on a sandbag, I don't have a sandbag, the sandbag would have to be the exact dimensionof the stove presumably. 

PS I don't leave fire unattended with a log on top of coals for this very reason, and never leave boat having newly stoked the fire. 

Edited by LadyG
N
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18 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I did not fancy opening door to throw on a sandbag, I don't have a sandbag, the sandbag would have to be the exact dimensionof the stove presumably. 

 

To avoid opening the door, cut the sandbag and poor the contents down the chimney. This will smother the fire in the same way as opening the door and covering the fire with ash (the normal procedure). 

 

Don't go to sleep until the stove has cooled. 

 

Edit to add: 

Don't do this if your stove still has the baffle plate in position.

Edited by MtB
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16 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I had my stove on runaway tonight. It was quite windy outside, but not the worst ever, the fire was a log on top of coals, not abnormal, but fire went red hot.

I put two fire blankets over the door, also closed the vents. I had a kettle on top of stove to retain fire blankets. Soon boiling. 

Not sure what more I could do to close down the fire obviously some oxygen was getting in, but once it gets hold is there another blanket type, or similar to use. 

I did not fancy opening door to throw on a sandbag, I don't have a sandbag, the sandbag would have to be the exact dimensionof the stove presumably. 

PS I don't leave fire unattended with a log on top of coals for this very reason, and never leave boat having newly stoked the fire. 

Cant have been that serious dredging up a 2012 thread.

When my fire gets spicy, I shut all vents fully, and if necessary,(only had to do it once), stick  chimbly cap on for half an hour, killed it dead.

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1 minute ago, matty40s said:

Cant have been that serious dredging up a 2012 thread.

When my fire gets spicy, I shut all vents fully, and if necessary,(only had to do it once), stick  chimbly cap on for half an hour, killed it dead.

 

Trouble with that is, the carbon monoxide will leak out into the boat if there are any leaks or gaps in the flue.

 

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It was the only thread about runaway stoves, I don't have a chimney cap, but I will get some sand, tx. 

There must be a leak to allow oxygen in, so that could also allow CO to escape in to boat, sand sounds better. 

Edited by LadyG
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15 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

To avoid opening the door, cut the sandbag and poor the contents down the chimney. This will smother the fire in the same way as opening the door and covering the fire with ash (the normal procedure). 

 

Don't go to sleep until the stove has cooled. 

 

Edit to add: 

Don't do this if your stove still has the baffle plate in position.

On every stove I've owned it would sit on top of the baffle plate and most likely block the chimney without damping the fire. Not a great idea!

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2 hours ago, LadyG said:

I had my stove on runaway tonight. It was quite windy outside, but not the worst ever, the fire was a log on top of coals, not abnormal, but fire went red hot.

I put two fire blankets over the door, also closed the vents. I had a kettle on top of stove to retain fire blankets. Soon boiling. 

Not sure what more I could do to close down the fire obviously some oxygen was getting in, but once it gets hold is there another blanket type, or similar to use. 

I did not fancy opening door to throw on a sandbag, I don't have a sandbag, the sandbag would have to be the exact dimensionof the stove presumably. 

PS I don't leave fire unattended with a log on top of coals for this very reason, and never leave boat having newly stoked the fire. 

 

What sort of stove is that?

 

If I shut down my vents it shuts down the stove even if it's really windy outside. Without an oxygen supply it can't continue burning hard. Your vents must be very loose and you've probably got gaps around the doors. Consider fixing it or just replacing it with a better quality stove in summer 

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