Alternator Pulleys

[Ex- Member]

I have this Mondeo 90amp alternator (Bosch)

It has a large outer nut at the centre hub and a spline nut set inside that looks like it's set into he shaft. Anyone know how to remove this type fitting, or any special tools for doing so.

Also would a standard V Pulley fit the shaft to replace the grooved pulley.

I've searched the net and you tube and did find reference to this alternator having a 17mm shaft, but that's about all I can find. I would assume though that many different brand standard car/van alternators have the same shaft and pulley.

Edited July 30, 2012 by Julynian

[steelaway]

I have this Mondeo 90amp alternator (Bosch)

It has a large outer nut at the centre hub and a spline nut set inside that looks like it's set into he shaft. Anyone know how to remove this type fitting, or any special tools for doing so.

Also would a standard V Pulley fit the shaft to replace the grooved pulley.

I've searched the net and you tube and did find reference to this alternator having a 17mm shaft, but that's about all I can find. I would assume though that many different brand standard car/van alternators have the same shaft and pulley.

 

 

 

Hi

 

They seem to use an air driven socket gun that vibrates, just like the tyre fitters. See your local tyre fitter, hold the pulley in a vice and go for it.

You should get a pulley to fit at an industrial stockists, but I'm concerned whether it with line up with the crank pulley when the alternator is fitted to your mountings.

 

Alex

[Ex- Member]

Hi

 

They seem to use an air driven socket gun that vibrates, just like the tyre fitters. See your local tyre fitter, hold the pulley in a vice and go for it.

You should get a pulley to fit at an industrial stockists, but I'm concerned whether it with line up with the crank pulley when the alternator is fitted to your mountings.

 

Alex

 

Hi Alex, cheers for that. The alternator is going to be board mounted and run by a small Kubota diesel engine built into the engine room, so not an issue with mountings or needing to line up with existing engine.

 

I'll try ATS tomorrow cheers!

 

 

 

[bizzard]

The female splined hole in the shaft end is to hold it still whilst undoing the nut. If you have a long splined bit to fit this and a Melco type tube spanner to fit the nut. The spline tool needs to poke out of the end of the tube spanner so it can be held with a socket wrench whilst undoing the nut, their is a special tool for this really. But as Steelaway says take it to a garage and they'll rattle the nut off with an impact tool.

The shaft where the pulley sits will almost certainly be parallel. Single V groove pulleys are almost all tapered fitting to the old tapered alternator shaft end.

You may find you'll have to get the V type pulleys centre hole machined out from tapered to parallel and the key slot re-machined out to match the shaft end if you can't find one with parallel hole to fit.

There are parallel hole V belt pulleys about but i just can't remember from what or vehicle at the moment.

Edited July 30, 2012 by bizzard

[Ex- Member]

The female splined hole in the shaft end is to hold it still whilst undoing the nut. If you have a long splined bit to fit this and a Melco type tube spanner to fit the nut. The spline tool needs to poke out of the end of the tube spanner so it can be held with a socket wrench whilst undoing the nut, their is a special tool for this really. But as Steelaway says take it to a garage and they'll rattle the nut off with an impact tool.

The shaft where the pulley sits will almost certainly be parallel. Single V groove pulleys are almost all tapered fitting to the old tapered alternator shaft end.

You may find you'll have to get the V type pulleys centre hole machined out from tapered to parallel and the key slot re-machined out to match the shaft end if you can't find one with parallel hole to fit.

There are parallel hole V belt pulleys about but i just can't remember from what or vehicle at the moment.

 

 

Thanks Bizzard that's helpful, I've seen V pulleys on e-bay that just mention 17mm shaft, no mention of taper, so I'm assuming parallel, hopefully I can find a straight swap and the existing pulley is not tapered.

 

It's a shame I can' find grooved engine pulleys to match the current alternator pulley, but no luck anywhere. I still have to remove the 110v generator from the engine also, that might be tapered too.

 

 

I've undone the centre nut and 4 allen bolts and 4 outer bolts, which loosened the stator, so tried gentle tapping all around but to no avail so might invest in a puller.

 

 

[bizzard]

Thanks Bizzard that's helpful, I've seen V pulleys on e-bay that just mention 17mm shaft, no mention of taper, so I'm assuming parallel, hopefully I can find a straight swap and the existing pulley is not tapered.

 

It's a shame I can' find grooved engine pulleys to match the current alternator pulley, but no luck anywhere. I still have to remove the 110v generator from the engine also, that might be tapered too.

 

 

I've undone the centre nut and 4 allen bolts and 4 outer bolts, which loosened the stator, so tried gentle tapping all around but to no avail so might invest in a puller.

If there is and end float in the crankshaft of the engine find or make a U shaped plate of an accurate tight fit or tap two slim bladed screw drivers between that flywheel fan and the crankcase and then whack the shafts centre with a hammer and soft metal drift.

[blodger]

It's a shame I can' find grooved engine pulleys to match the current alternator pulley, but no luck anywhere. I still have to remove the 110v generator from the engine also, that might be tapered too.

 

I have used a Ford Escort crankshaft pulley for similar purpose before; They are about 6" diameter. Depends what size you are after. I took it off when scrapping so scrapyards may be a source?

[Ex- Member]

It's a shame I can' find grooved engine pulleys to match the current alternator pulley, but no luck anywhere. I still have to remove the 110v generator from the engine also, that might be tapered too.

 

I have used a Ford Escort crankshaft pulley for similar purpose before; They are about 6" diameter. Depends what size you are after. I took it off when scrapping so scrapyards may be a source?

 

I believe it's a 1 inch shaft with 1/4 key way, I haven't removed the existing 110v generator yet though so it could well be a tapered shaft. I think most car engines are a bigger shaft than 1 inch though. The engine I have is a small Kubota diesel 6HP I've trawled the net with no luck, I might have to have one made up.

 

 

 

[OldGoat]

I believe it's a 1 inch shaft with 1/4 key way, I haven't removed the existing 110v generator yet though so it could well be a tapered shaft. I think most car engines are a bigger shaft than 1 inch though. The engine I have is a small Kubota diesel 6HP I've trawled the net with no luck, I might have to have one made up.

 

 

 

 

 

Have you tried taper lock bushes and pulleys. They come in a variety of sizes and inexpensive. Try Bearingboys on the web

[ditchcrawler]

Have you tried taper lock bushes and pulleys. They come in a variety of sizes and inexpensive. Try Bearingboys on the web

If you go down that route I have a pully in the garage that may do the trick that I took off my engine to fit a larger one.

[Arthur Brown]

If that was a Mondeo alternator with Mondeo pulley then a car breaker may well supply the Mondeo water pump pulley and crank shaft pulley. One of these may be suitable for fitting to the crank shaft of your Kubota. This should get you the correct pulley set and you may be able to fit the alternator(s) so that a Mondeo fanbelt is the best fitment -then it should fit the pulleys! (And be retail available).

[Ex- Member]

If you go down that route I have a pully in the garage that may do the trick that I took off my engine to fit a larger one.

 

Hi All I managed to remove the generator, I borrowed a puller from a local engineer, the puller removed the main generator but not he hub of it that remains on the shaft. The hub has 3 grub screws that screw on to the shaft their buried in t threaded hole. Unfortunately I can't undo them, turned 2 Allen keys into a barley twist, they just won't budge.

 

I didn't want to use the puller again whilst the grub screws remain in situ in case I damage something. How I'll get these screws out I just don't know.

 

The end of the shaft measures exactly 1 inch, so i think it is a parallel shaft. I've left the alternator pulley for now as I would like to get a 6 groove pulley on the engine shaft as these type pulley belts cope better with higher amp alternators. I could never be an engineer, it's too stressful

 

The pulley I need on the engine would be a 3 inch as it's a 2 inch on the alternator so would give me 5400 RPM just perfect and should produce around 75 amps according to the curve chart.

 

If I end up going for V pulleys, I'll probably make them bigger all round for extra grip, 3 inch on Alt and 4.5 inch on engine. Thanks for the offer ditchcrawler, might take you up on it yet.

 

So this is where I'm at.

 

 

 

 

So what are my options with the grub screws?

 

 

 

If that was a Mondeo alternator with Mondeo pulley then a car breaker may well supply the Mondeo water pump pulley and crank shaft pulley. One of these may be suitable for fitting to the crank shaft of your Kubota. This should get you the correct pulley set and you may be able to fit the alternator(s) so that a Mondeo fanbelt is the best fitment -then it should fit the pulleys! (And be retail available).

 

Hi Arthur, good thinking, although the engine pulley might be bigger than 1 inch, I'll check this out though and the w/p pulley, cheers!

 

 

 

Edited July 31, 2012 by Julynian

[bizzard]

Try flooding with penetrating oil. Place a drift on the screw heads and tap rapidly with a hammer, this will shake the thread up a bit. Try am Allan hex bit driven with a 3'8 drive socket and ratchet. Or cut off an inch of that Allan key and drive that with same. A quick waft up and down of oxy-acetylene on one side of the flange by the screw, the slight expansion would free the threads.

[Pretty Funked Up]

The hub has 3 grub screws that screw on to the shaft their buried in t threaded hole. Unfortunately I can't undo them, turned 2 Allen keys into a barley twist, they just won't budge.

 

As Bizzard said you need the correct sized one of these (ebay )...

[nb Innisfree]

Impact screwdriver on above socket is probably the best option after soaking a la Bizzard.

 

We have twin 13mm V belts on a 24v 100A alternator with 3" pulley and 6" engine pulley. No slip and only needs adjusting once when it's near the end of its (long) life.

Edited July 31, 2012 by nb Innisfree

[ditchcrawler]

The pulley I need on the engine would be a 3 inch as it's a 2 inch on the alternator so would give me 5400 RPM just perfect and should produce around 75 amps according to the curve chart.

 

If I end up going for V pulleys, I'll probably make them bigger all round for extra grip, 3 inch on Alt and 4.5 inch on engine. Thanks for the offer ditchcrawler, might take you up on it yet.

 

 

I think my offering would be far to big for you in that case, I didn't realise your engine was that fast.

[Ex- Member]

Try flooding with penetrating oil. Place a drift on the screw heads and tap rapidly with a hammer, this will shake the thread up a bit. Try am Allan hex bit driven with a 3'8 drive socket and ratchet. Or cut off an inch of that Allan key and drive that with same. A quick waft up and down of oxy-acetylene on one side of the flange by the screw, the slight expansion would free the threads.

 

Hi all

 

Cheers for the tips, the only problem is the grub screw is 1 inch inside the thread so I can't get a socket or impact punch near it unless there's on available with a 1 inch end. Really annoying how deep it's set.

 

Or cut off an inch of that Allan key and drive that with same.

Ahh just spotted that, good un, cheers bizzard

 

 

We have twin 13mm V belts on a 24v 100A alternator with 3" pulley and 6" engine pulley. No slip and only needs adjusting once when it's near the end of its (long) life.

That's good to know, leaves me more options, appreciated.

Thanks for all input chaps

[Pretty Funked Up]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8PC-1-2-LONG-MALE-HEX-SOCKET-BITS-SET-ALLEN-KEY-140mm-/270563188999

found these longuns, way too cheap for my liking, they might be ok though

 

They do come in a few lengths, the longer ones are weaker though obviously. Those traditional bent bits of metal 'allen' keys (blooming allen, whos allen?) are next to useless compaired to these things.

 

they even come in ultra long nutter (I'd go with the shortest one that will reach)

Edited August 1, 2012 by Pretty Funked Up

[Ex- Member]

http://www.ebay.co.u...m-/270563188999

found these longuns, way too cheap for my liking, they might be ok though

 

They do come in a few lengths, the longer ones are weaker though obviously. Those traditional bent bits of metal 'allen' keys (blooming allen, whos allen?) are next to useless compaired to these things.

 

they even come in ultra long nutter (I'd go with the shortest one that will reach)

 

 

Hi pfu

 

Nice set, that particular one though the smallest is 5mm, the grub screw i have is 3mm. Anyway I've given up, on removing it.

 

I'm going to keep the hub that's attached and get a pulley made to fit the hub. Just sent the details to a local engineering shop, they have all sorts of pulley types for drilling &milling. all they need to do is supply is a 120 to125mm pulley with a 35mm centre bore and drill 4 x 6mm holes to line up and affix the pulley to the hub. Surely that can't cost too much.

 

I managed to get the grooved pulley removed from the alternator, although the garage had the correct tool to remove these spline type fixings, the mechanic simply used an air gun and socket directly on the nut and gripped the pulley in his hand, came straight off, Apparently the snatch speed of good air guns usually enough to remove these nuts without holding the spline. Clever stuff I said, tricks of the trade he said

 

I found this pulley on e-bay for the alternator just £12.50

 

The engineers can match the pulleys 13mm v as it's standard, so hopefully I might have this sorted soon. Also received the alternator mounting bracket today, it's pretty solid 6mm steel originally from a DAF truck, once this is bolted down It won't be going anywhere, also the 4 12mm fixing bolts are set in slotted holes giving me about 10mm of side to side adjustment which will be really helpful when lining it all up.

 

 

Also picked up this adjuster tensioner so can hopefully get it all to link up with a bit of jiggery pokery.

 

 

I'm also wondering weather I could fit an additional pulley on the end of the shaft as there's a 12mm bolt that screws 40mm into the shaft centre. Could possibly run an additional alternator of lower amperage ?

 

 

 

 

[Grace and Favour]

 

 

 

I'm also wondering weather I could fit an additional pulley on the end of the shaft as there's a 12mm bolt that screws 40mm into the shaft centre. Could possibly run an additional alternator of lower amperage ?

 

 

 

 

 

Or maybe a candyfloss machine for entertaining guests?

[bizzard]

Hi pfu

 

Nice set, that particular one though the smallest is 5mm, the grub screw i have is 3mm. Anyway I've given up, on removing it.

 

I'm going to keep the hub that's attached and get a pulley made to fit the hub. Just sent the details to a local engineering shop, they have all sorts of pulley types for drilling &milling. all they need to do is supply is a 120 to125mm pulley with a 35mm centre bore and drill 4 x 6mm holes to line up and affix the pulley to the hub. Surely that can't cost too much.

 

I managed to get the grooved pulley removed from the alternator, although the garage had the correct tool to remove these spline type fixings, the mechanic simply used an air gun and socket directly on the nut and gripped the pulley in his hand, came straight off, Apparently the snatch speed of good air guns usually enough to remove these nuts without holding the spline. Clever stuff I said, tricks of the trade he said

 

I found this pulley on e-bay for the alternator just £12.50

 

The engineers can match the pulleys 13mm v as it's standard, so hopefully I might have this sorted soon. Also received the alternator mounting bracket today, it's pretty solid 6mm steel originally from a DAF truck, once this is bolted down It won't be going anywhere, also the 4 12mm fixing bolts are set in slotted holes giving me about 10mm of side to side adjustment which will be really helpful when lining it all up.

 

 

Also picked up this adjuster tensioner so can hopefully get it all to link up with a bit of jiggery pokery.

 

 

I'm also wondering weather I could fit an additional pulley on the end of the shaft as there's a 12mm bolt that screws 40mm into the shaft centre. Could possibly run an additional alternator of lower amperage ?

Mmm, go easy, think of the extra side load going onto the engines main bearing. the further away from it the the load on it increases. Ordinary V belts should be ok though, if they were the tighter multi-groove belts i'd be thinking twice about it.

Maybe fix another pulley and alternator to the other end of the engine to even up the load.

Edited August 1, 2012 by bizzard

[ditchcrawler]

Or maybe a candyfloss machine for entertaining guests?

I like that one. :cheers:

[Pretty Funked Up]

http://www.toolbox.co.uk/teng-hex-s2-socket-bit-38in-0-98656?utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=GB&utm_campaign=GoogleBase (pic is just for show)

 

3mm one with 49mm of reach (length)

 

You've found a work around so no matter

Edited August 1, 2012 by Pretty Funked Up

[Ex- Member]

Mmm, go easy, think of the extra side load going onto the engines main bearing. the further away from it the the load on it increases. Ordinary V belts should be ok though, if they were the tighter multi-groove belts i'd be thinking twice about it.

Maybe fix another pulley and alternator to the other end of the engine to even up the load.

 

Cheers bizzard

 

Hopefully the 90 amp I'm going to use on it's own will be fine, The engine's 6HP

 

I also wondered if it was possible to put an alternator on direct drive, or candy floss machine There's plenty more power available although I don't know how many of the HP a 90 amp alternator uses. A direct drive addition would spin a charger at 3600 rpm or possibly something like a PM wind charger type motor. Or put an alternator opposite to even up stresses. Just thinking out loud.

 

 

 

 

http://www.toolbox.c...aign=GoogleBase (pic is just for show)

 

3mm one with 49mm of reach (length)

 

You've found a work around so no matter

 

Hi pfu

 

cheers, I did find one following your last post, thanks for the tip even though no needed now.

 

I'm tempted to get a full set of those though, Allen keys are useless.

 

 

 

[bizzard]

Cheers bizzard

 

Hopefully the 90 amp I'm going to use on it's own will be fine, The engine's 6HP

 

I also wondered if it was possible to put an alternator on direct drive, or candy floss machine There's plenty more power available although I don't know how many of the HP a 90 amp alternator uses. A direct drive addition would spin a charger at 3600 rpm or possibly something like a PM wind charger type motor. Or put an alternator opposite to even up stresses. Just thinking out loud.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi pfu

 

cheers, I did find one following your last post, thanks for the tip even though no needed now.

 

I'm tempted to get a full set of those though, Allen keys are useless.

They're not bad for shorter screws as long as they're high quality high tensile steel.