Rambling Posted June 24, 2012 Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 I am going from the shallow River Wey, then down the Thames to Oxford. Is a 10mtr rope and 2 mtr chain long enough for my anchor? Is one anchor enough (40ft NB) considering the river conditions of Thames at the moment?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilR Posted June 24, 2012 Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 You will be going UP the Thames to Oxford. If you really needed to deploy an anchor in an emergency you would probably need a minimum of a 15 Kg Danforth, 10 metres of chain and 20 metres of nylon rope to have any holding power. Best to moor up when the red boards are up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grace and Favour Posted June 24, 2012 Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 I am going from the shallow River Wey, then down the Thames to Oxford. Is a 10mtr rope and 2 mtr chain long enough for my anchor? Is one anchor enough (40ft NB) considering the river conditions of Thames at the moment?? No - it certainly isn't. You want a chain at least 10 metres long, and about 30 metres of rope. (and your anchor should weigh about 15Kg absolute minimum) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rambling Posted June 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 thank you.. blimey. Hopelessly too short then. thank you.. blimey. Hopelessly too short then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eveen Posted June 24, 2012 Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 Good advice, also needed to know thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grace and Favour Posted June 24, 2012 Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 thank you.. blimey. Hopelessly too short then. thank you.. blimey. Hopelessly too short then. ISorry - but the chain and rope you have is only suitable for a limpid pool . . . . . . (I don't mean to sound harsh - - but an anchor is deployed in times of emergency - and in such times of emergency it simply has to work - - - It's important that it is more than capable of handling the worst conditions you could possibly envisage - If it's deployed - you are doing it to possibly save your life! Either buy, or borrow, and anchor, chain and rode - - - and enjoy your travels, safely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tree Posted June 24, 2012 Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 morning all, I too like Rambling am interested in knowing about how much chain and rope that I will need for my boat. I have already bought a 20kg Danforth anchor but am unsure on how much chain and rope to get ( my boat is a 38ft cruiser-style), plus where do I attatch it too ??? Also where is the best place to buy the rope and chain ??? many thanks Lorraine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilR Posted June 24, 2012 Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 morning all, I too like Rambling am interested in knowing about how much chain and rope that I will need for my boat. I have already bought a 20kg Danforth anchor but am unsure on how much chain and rope to get ( my boat is a 38ft cruiser-style), plus where do I attatch it too ??? Also where is the best place to buy the rope and chain ??? many thanks Lorraine Your anchor will be fine for the job. I'll leave others to recommend where to buy rope and chain. The method of deployment and attachment is, of course, paramount. Welded T studs are not usually up to the job and it is better to rely on a substantial through bolted eyelet or similar. It is also essential to have the anchor ready for deployment in an emergency. One method is to have the chain and warp coiled up in a plastic bucket with the rope firmly attached to a through-hull fitting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tree Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 (edited) Your anchor will be fine for the job. I'll leave others to recommend where to buy rope and chain. The method of deployment and attachment is, of course, paramount. Welded T studs are not usually up to the job and it is better to rely on a substantial through bolted eyelet or similar. It is also essential to have the anchor ready for deployment in an emergency. One method is to have the chain and warp coiled up in a plastic bucket with the rope firmly attached to a through-hull fitting! Thank you PhilR for the advice now I have noted on here that some folks advocate the placing of the anchor at the stern and others the bow, as I will be cruising singlehanded , it would be best for me to have my anchor sited at the stern ??? as easier for me to deploy of needed ????? plus how easy is it to get a 'through bolted eyelet or similar' fitted ?? dont mean to highjack the OP thread, but am unsure Edited June 25, 2012 by tree Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rambling Posted June 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 no it's good. I want to know these thing too. Bow or stern and wher to buy full kit already attached so no mistakes. Hope you are well tree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timleech Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 What is the maximum depth of the Thames, above the Wey confluence? Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 Thank you PhilR for the advice now I have noted on here that some folks advocate the placing of the anchor at the stern and others the bow, as I will be cruising singlehanded , it would be best for me to have my anchor sited at the stern ??? as easier for me to deploy of needed ????? plus how easy is it to get a 'through bolted eyelet or similar' fitted ?? dont mean to highjack the OP thread, but am unsure Have the Anchor tied off in the bow, run the rope back along the roof to the stern,(ensuring it wil be 'free flowing' and not get caught up on mushrooms, poles etc) have the anchor, excess rope and chain in a bucket / plastic tote box tucked away at the stern. If 'disaster' happens you have immediate access to the anchor and can still try to restart your engine, try and steer etc whilst deploying the anchor. The boat will end up being anchored 'correctly' with the pointy end into the flow. Yes you might have too-much rope out as you cannot judge your depth (as you have had to tie it off in advance) but better too much than not enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_fincher Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 What is the maximum depth of the Thames, above the Wey confluence? Tim Good question, and one I have tried to find an answer to in the past. Much of what I did find, indicated that once on the non-tidal part, it is generally not that deep at all, but I'd be interested to know the most it ever is, (and where). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timleech Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 Good question, and one I have tried to find an answer to in the past. Much of what I did find, indicated that once on the non-tidal part, it is generally not that deep at all, but I'd be interested to know the most it ever is, (and where). Yes, it's relevant to the OP's question, and to others (including myself). Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proper Job Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 In general, the river Thames is a lot shallower than most people would think. The trouble is that it varies considerably. As a general rule, if it's wide, it's relatively shallow and vise versa. The EA gives the following with respect to navigational draught: Lechlade to Oxford - 0.9m or 3'0" Oxford to Reading - 1.2m or 4'0" Reading to Windsor - 1.3m or 4'6" Windsor to Staines - 1.7m or 5'6" Staines to Teddington - 2.0m or 6'6" As a general rule, I would say that allowing for a depth of 10' - 15' would suffice. There are deeper 'pockets' but these are few and far between. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_fincher Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 As a general rule, I would say that allowing for a depth of 10' - 15' would suffice. There are deeper 'pockets' but these are few and far between. So, based on that, what is the normal recommendation for how much chain and rope ? (Yes, I realise it might not be enough for other rivers - but for someone just interested in the Thames.....) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickhlx Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 I am quite surprised people are suggesting a length of 40+ metres of Rope+Chain... I can see it is necessary to err on the side of caution but that long ? That would put the far end of the boat some 50+ metres away from the anchor Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grace and Favour Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 I am quite surprised people are suggesting a length of 40+ metres of Rope+Chain... I can see it is necessary to err on the side of caution but that long ? That would put the far end of the boat some 50+ metres away from the anchor Nick No - - - 1// It all depends on how much of the rode you let out 2// It depends upon the depth of the water you're on at the time 3// Even if you were in 20m depth of water - the function of the chain is to lie on the bed to ensure the anchor bites, and the rode will take a curved path up to the boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickhlx Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 No - - - 1// It all depends on how much of the rode you let out 2// It depends upon the depth of the water you're on at the time 3// Even if you were in 20m depth of water - the function of the chain is to lie on the bed to ensure the anchor bites, and the rode will take a curved path up to the boat I understand the principles but Proper Job provides information that the part of the Thames in question is apparently mainly no more than 7 feet deep. Even allowing for say 12 feet depth, times 5 = 60 feet, which suggests around 20 metres would be adequate. You can also enhance the performance of an anchor ( reduce warp length too) with the use of an anchor weight positioned around the join of the rope to chain... Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proper Job Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 No - - - 1// It all depends on how much of the rode you let out 2// It depends upon the depth of the water you're on at the time 3// Even if you were in 20m depth of water - the function of the chain is to lie on the bed to ensure the anchor bites, and the rode will take a curved path up to the boat Who's going to be in 20m depth of water? That's 65 feet! We're talking about the non tidal Thames in flood conditions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickhlx Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 Who's going to be in 20m depth of water? That's 65 feet! We're talking about the non tidal Thames in flood conditions. Perhaps it is a pretty serious flood ? Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 On the upper Thames with those shallowish depths i'd use all chain,this will ensure only the necessary minimum length is deployed. If you have miles of rope and chain laid out the boat will swing and range around all over the shop in a fairway despite a strong stream if there are strong beam winds blowing making it possible for your boat to strike ie moored boats,the bank,islands,passing boats ect ect. To help prevent this ranging about a kedge anchor or for a muddy bottom like the upper Thames a simple mud weight deployed over the stern end like a 56lb weight or an old gearbox on a rope will keep the boat stationary with the bows heading into the stream. All nice and snug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proper Job Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 Ok……. Before I get shot down in flames, I’m not saying don’t have an anchor/chain/rope if you’re going to use the Thames/any other river/tidal waterway. Any insurance company would take a dim view if you didn’t have one and something went wrong. But…………. For most of the part of any trip up the river it’s a very low risk. For 98% of your cruising time if something went wrong with the engine, you’d drift quietly in to a bank or a tree or some other obstruction. Even if it was in flood. The highest risk time is entering or leaving the head of a lock and passing in front of the weir. Suddenly, and without warning, your engine cuts out! Panic set in. I’d suggest that by the time you deployed your anchor, you’ll probably be on the safety ropes/piles across the weir steam entrance. Even if you deployed your anchor, 10m of chain and 30m of rope, you’d probably be on the safety ropes/piles before it bit and stopped the boat. An anchor, chain and rope set up may be a requirement of your insurance and give you peace of mind. But more than anything…. Make sure that your engine is well maintained and running properly. The fuel filters are clean/recently changed. Check for water in the fuel. If there’s any doubt about the reliability of your engine, get it sorted before your trip. Take the advice of local lock keeper. If in doubt, moor up and wait for conditions to return to something more reasonable for navigation. Oh…… and all of this talk about length of chain is meaningless. What grade of chain? 5m of heavy duty chain is way better than 30m of bog chain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 Ok……. Before I get shot down in flames, I’m not saying don’t have an anchor/chain/rope if you’re going to use the Thames/any other river/tidal waterway. Any insurance company would take a dim view if you didn’t have one and something went wrong. But…………. For most of the part of any trip up the river it’s a very low risk. For 98% of your cruising time if something went wrong with the engine, you’d drift quietly in to a bank or a tree or some other obstruction. Even if it was in flood. The highest risk time is entering or leaving the head of a lock and passing in front of the weir. Suddenly, and without warning, your engine cuts out! Panic set in. I’d suggest that by the time you deployed your anchor, you’ll probably be on the safety ropes/piles across the weir steam entrance. Even if you deployed your anchor, 10m of chain and 30m of rope, you’d probably be on the safety ropes/piles before it bit and stopped the boat. An anchor, chain and rope set up may be a requirement of your insurance and give you peace of mind. But more than anything…. Make sure that your engine is well maintained and running properly. The fuel filters are clean/recently changed. Check for water in the fuel. If there’s any doubt about the reliability of your engine, get it sorted before your trip. Take the advice of local lock keeper. If in doubt, moor up and wait for conditions to return to something more reasonable for navigation. Oh…… and all of this talk about length of chain is meaningless. What grade of chain? 5m of heavy duty chain is way better than 30m of bog chain. Bog chains are useful to have though as without them you'd have to climb up onto the seat and yank the lever down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proper Job Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 (edited) Bog chains are useful to have though as without them you'd have to climb up onto the seat and yank the lever down. A good point well presented. I'd hate to have to change the ball valve on the cistern with it 30m up though edit: ......... and that'd be a hell of a scouring action with 30m head on the flush water. You'd need an anchor to hang on Edited June 25, 2012 by Proper Job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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