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Batteries nightmare


Up The Creek

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I just found 115F on the www, which is 46C

I measure temperature on the battery case as I dont want to put my nice thermocouple into the acid, so a safety marging is good.

I am sure the thermocouple would be ok but I try to minimise acid contact since the brand new pair of trousers episode.

Our batteries are also in the engine room but the battery box sits right on the baseplate which helps to keep the temperature down.

The downside of this is lower capacity in the winter.

 

This is one of many good descriptions of equalisation on the www:

 

linky

 

Forgot to say...make sure that none of your electrical equipment is going to get upset by the higher equalisation voltage.

 

dave

 

Have taken on board points about safety, temperature, and danger of damaging electrical equipment. Thanks.

 

Will be pursuing further equalisation as soon as I can, but it's amazing how long the charger is taking to move from absorption to float (where I understand it needs to be before I can start the operation). After switching off the charger briefly while testing the ('fully charged') batteries, it took 8 hours to revert to float. Another thing to confuse me!

 

Bob

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Have taken on board points about safety, temperature, and danger of damaging electrical equipment. Thanks.

 

Will be pursuing further equalisation as soon as I can, but it's amazing how long the charger is taking to move from absorption to float (where I understand it needs to be before I can start the operation). After switching off the charger briefly while testing the ('fully charged') batteries, it took 8 hours to revert to float. Another thing to confuse me!

 

Bob

 

Well thats a good thing, most chargers go into float mode too soon rather than too late.

I am not familiar with the Victron charger as we are a lower-tech boat, but if you can manually start the equalisation process then do it sooner.

These things are really not that critical and as you believe (believed) that your batteries were dead you have little to loose and lots to gain.

Can you measure the current going into the batteries?

Its probably not ideal to go into equalisation while the charge current is still high (more than maybe 5 to 10 amps per battery????) but they are big lumps of lead so not that fragile.

...........Dave

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Well thats a good thing, most chargers go into float mode too soon rather than too late.

I am not familiar with the Victron charger as we are a lower-tech boat, but if you can manually start the equalisation process then do it sooner.

These things are really not that critical and as you believe (believed) that your batteries were dead you have little to loose and lots to gain.

Can you measure the current going into the batteries?

Its probably not ideal to go into equalisation while the charge current is still high (more than maybe 5 to 10 amps per battery????) but they are big lumps of lead so not that fragile.

...........Dave

If you are taking current for other services on the boat (lights, fridge etc) the the charger just sees this as current being taken by the battery and remains in absorption mode. To get it into float, and then do a satisfactory equalisation, you should turn off as much load as you can, preferably all of it.

 

Certainly on our Mastervolt you can only get it into equalisation mode if it is already in float mode.

Edited by nicknorman
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If you are taking current for other services on the boat (lights, fridge etc) the the charger just sees this as current being taken by the battery and remains in absorption mode. To get it into float, and then do a satisfactory equalisation, you should turn off as much load as you can, preferably all of it.

 

Certainly on our Mastervolt you can only get it into equalisation mode if it is already in float mode.

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Right. Did have a fairly small load on, but everything turned off now.

 

Monitor (reading 'I') has been showing amps going into battery as a constant zero today. That, I think I recall, is usually the case when it is also reporting the battery as fully charged; voltage reading (at absorption) is still showing 14.7.

 

Electrician at marina assures me what I am doing is not the cause of all my electrics tripping out three times this evening!

 

Bob

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Right. Did have a fairly small load on, but everything turned off now.

 

Monitor (reading 'I') has been showing amps going into battery as a constant zero today. That, I think I recall, is usually the case when it is also reporting the battery as fully charged; voltage reading (at absorption) is still showing 14.7.

 

Electrician at marina assures me what I am doing is not the cause of all my electrics tripping out three times this evening!

 

Bob

Are you sure you are checking the current correctly? Your battery monitor may well be showing zero current, but that is current into/ out of the battery. If the battery is fully charged, the monitor will show zero even though boat services might be taking many amps. You should put the clamp-meter around the charger 12v lead (either +ve or -ve) to check what current the charger is having to produce. From the charger's point of view it cannot distinguish between batteries taking current because they are not yet fully charged, vs boat services taking current. Even though you think you have turned everything off, maybe you have forgotten something that takes enough current to keep the charger in absorption.

 

Alternatively, since I am not familiar with products other than Mastervolt, maybe you are still on the minimum time the charger stays in absorption regardless of current, something that can almost certainly be configured in the software. The default value for this in our MV charger is 45 minutes.

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I've read this thread a few times now, and I just wonder if the OP shouldn't hire an independent electrical engineer to perform a thorough check test and system evaluation. His/Her report could form the basis of any claim against builders, installers, suppliers, or even manufacturers. Given Chris Gibson's (Gibbo) experience, and trade, perhaps he would make a good independent choice, why not ask him directly?

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I've read this thread a few times now, and I just wonder if the OP shouldn't hire an independent electrical engineer to perform a thorough check test and system evaluation. His/Her report could form the basis of any claim against builders, installers, suppliers, or even manufacturers. Given Chris Gibson's (Gibbo) experience, and trade, perhaps he would make a good independent choice, why not ask him directly?

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Good idea. I had asked once for suggestions for an expert local to me (Thames, at Surbiton) who might be able to advise, but no recommendations were forthcoming. And yes, as has been said before, if/when action is taken against the builders, I will almost certainly need an 'expert report' by my side. I now have the equipment (hydrometer and multimeter) to take any necessary readings in advance.

 

I would like to first try to complete the equalisation operation (am in regular contact with Victron) and take on board some of the previous posts but, even if the condition of the batteries improves, I will still have very little faith in the stability of the electrical system, particularly if the recent spate of tripping/shut downs continues. Not sure where Chris Gibson is based (Midlands?), but hopefully he would be able to help, or at least suggest someone more local.

 

Thanks.

 

Bob

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Good idea. I had asked once for suggestions for an expert local to me (Thames, at Surbiton) who might be able to advise, but no recommendations were forthcoming. And yes, as has been said before, if/when action is taken against the builders, I will almost certainly need an 'expert report' by my side.

Maybe call a local BSS examiner, who might know someone in the trade. I've heard there's a one up river at Port Hampton, the BSS website should have a list of local ones.

 

I'm not that far away myself but don't do commercial work, anyway it sounds like it'd be hard to find out what happened exactly originally, now the batts are replaced and charger adjusted.

 

cheers,

Pete. ~smpt~

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Maybe call a local BSS examiner, who might know someone in the trade. I've heard there's a one up river at Port Hampton, the BSS website should have a list of local ones.

 

I'm not that far away myself but don't do commercial work, anyway it sounds like it'd be hard to find out what happened exactly originally, now the batts are replaced and charger adjusted.

 

cheers,

Pete. ~smpt~

 

Thanks for this, Pete, and for your previous posts. Yes, I think it will be very difficult ever to know what caused the overcharging last time but, although I will still pursue it, I am far more concerned about getting things sorted for the future.

 

Regards.

 

Bob

 

Are you sure you are checking the current correctly? Your battery monitor may well be showing zero current, but that is current into/ out of the battery. If the battery is fully charged, the monitor will show zero even though boat services might be taking many amps. You should put the clamp-meter around the charger 12v lead (either +ve or -ve) to check what current the charger is having to produce. From the charger's point of view it cannot distinguish between batteries taking current because they are not yet fully charged, vs boat services taking current. Even though you think you have turned everything off, maybe you have forgotten something that takes enough current to keep the charger in absorption.

 

Alternatively, since I am not familiar with products other than Mastervolt, maybe you are still on the minimum time the charger stays in absorption regardless of current, something that can almost certainly be configured in the software. The default value for this in our MV charger is 45 minutes.

 

Well it did get to float eventually this morning, after I had taken all the load off. Not sure I am using my (new!) clamp meter properly, but the amp reading I got from it was 0.8. Maybe, as you suggest, there is a default minimum to keep it at absorption so long. Have asked Victron.

 

After a further 3 hours equalisation today (4 hours in total), this is a summary of the changes which resulted:

 

Battery. SG Range. No. cells SG increase No. cells SG decrease

Old* New. of + 0.05. of + 0.05

1. 1.220-1.255. 1.225-1.250. 3. 0

2. 1.225-1.260. 1.235-1.245. 2. 2

3. 1.230-1.260. 1.240-1.260. 4. 1

4. 1.225-1.250. 1.240-1.250. 3. 0

5. 1.230-1.250. 1.240-1.250. 1. 0

6. 1.225-1.250. 1.245-1.250. 3. 0

 

* before equalisation.

 

So, a variable picture, mildly encouraging that in all batteries the minimum SG increased, but in some cells the SG actually went down after being equalised. In none did the maximum increase; in one case it decreased.

 

Re. voltage: after equalisation and taking the batteries off the shoreline for a few hours, the voltage readings dropped dramatically just as before (see my first post) i.e. from 12.65 down to 10.2 volts (using Victron Monitor) after drawing 80 amps (from fully charged) in just over 5 hours; each individual battery also gave exactly the same reading of 10.2v. Taking all load off then led to an increase in the Monitor reading to 12.37v, with each individual battery also reading 12.39v.

 

Any other interpretation would be interesting. Worth trying the equalisation for a few more hours? I feel I am flogging the proverbial dead (albeit happily equalised.......) equine.

 

Bob

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Hi,

 

I would look through all the instruction books related to your equipment in detail. Although you got your boat brand new from a builder faulty installations can still happen from new (I recently heard about a boat that had its exhaust outlet with no bend in it from new so when it rained water slowly trickled down the pipe and into the engine which made it overheat once the oil emulsified). A few things to look for to see if you have a faulty installation:

 

- Is your battery bank connected with the output +ve cable at one end of the bank and the -ve at the other end? If not this is bad practice.

- Were ALL the batteries replaced at the same time and type after the initial fault? You may need to look in the manual to ensure the jumpers are correct or software config as above from Biggles. If not again, blame the builder.

- Do you have any batteries in the bank that have an isolated supply being taken from them? For example it would be easy to power a bilge pump off one of the batteries in the bank. This would unbalance the charge in the bank and cause problems, again this would be the builder's fault.

- Get yourself a multimeter and measure the voltage across each battery one at a time when they are being used but not being charged and record each reading, looking for one with a very low load. If there is one with a marked low output then unfortunately that one is pulling the rest down with it. This would be a faulty battery and should be covered by the battery manufacturer. If this is the case insist they change ALL of the batteries in the bank as they will have all suffered by now.

- Sorry if this is patronising but it has to be asked - you are putting de ionised water in them right?

- If you have a twin alternator setup, has the engine ever been run with the domestic bank isolated off? An alarm should sound in this case but if that alarm fails it could happen. This could damage the alternator regulator.

 

 

In any case I used to work in warranties a bit (for an electronics company) and this is obviously difficult due to the number of well known parties involved. As I understand it a warranty is held with the manufacturer of the goods. So if you buy a Sony TV at Comet and it goes wrong within the warranty it is up to Sony to sort it out, although Comet should help you to get that done (if they still have any after service at all these days;). It is also fair to say that if your sony TV had a faulty capacitor manufactured by company xyz that you would not be expected to go after company xyz to get that capacitor fixed, that would be down to Sony. I think the product in this case is the boat and it should be up to the builder to rectify and he should make any claims necessary to his suppliers for faulty parts supplied to him. Check your contract with the builder as this obviously would not apply to things like light bulbs but the question is where is the line?

The only downside I can see to what has already happened is that the builder has compensated you to a degree and that may be seen in a court as a settlement that you have accepted for the problem, even though it is not a satisfactory one and you probably just wanted to get it sorted..

 

Good luck...

Has anyone mentioned the Sale of Goods Act yet?

 

If a commercial vendor sells a purchaser goods that are not fit for purpose it is the vendor's part to make good the problem. So if you bought a telly with a faulty capacitor from Comet, it's Comet's problem. Whatever Comet might have to say about it.

 

I had to point out to Maplin's manager in Birmingham that their after sale policy was in breach of the same... I got my router exchanged! I expect most shops know this yet know it's not worth their while to uphold their statutory obligations.

 

:angry:

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Thanks for this, Pete, and for your previous posts. Yes, I think it will be very difficult ever to know what caused the overcharging last time but, although I will still pursue it, I am far more concerned about getting things sorted for the future.

 

Regards.

 

Bob

 

 

 

Well it did get to float eventually this morning, after I had taken all the load off. Not sure I am using my (new!) clamp meter properly, but the amp reading I got from it was 0.8. Maybe, as you suggest, there is a default minimum to keep it at absorption so long. Have asked Victron.

 

After a further 3 hours equalisation today (4 hours in total), this is a summary of the changes which resulted:

 

Battery. SG Range. No. cells SG increase No. cells SG decrease

Old* New. of + 0.05. of + 0.05

1. 1.220-1.255. 1.225-1.250. 3. 0

2. 1.225-1.260. 1.235-1.245. 2. 2

3. 1.230-1.260. 1.240-1.260. 4. 1

4. 1.225-1.250. 1.240-1.250. 3. 0

5. 1.230-1.250. 1.240-1.250. 1. 0

6. 1.225-1.250. 1.245-1.250. 3. 0

 

* before equalisation.

 

So, a variable picture, mildly encouraging that in all batteries the minimum SG increased, but in some cells the SG actually went down after being equalised. In none did the maximum increase; in one case it decreased.

 

Re. voltage: after equalisation and taking the batteries off the shoreline for a few hours, the voltage readings dropped dramatically just as before (see my first post) i.e. from 12.65 down to 10.2 volts (using Victron Monitor) after drawing 80 amps (from fully charged) in just over 5 hours; each individual battery also gave exactly the same reading of 10.2v. Taking all load off then led to an increase in the Monitor reading to 12.37v, with each individual battery also reading 12.39v.

 

Any other interpretation would be interesting. Worth trying the equalisation for a few more hours? I feel I am flogging the proverbial dead (albeit happily equalised.......) equine.

 

Bob

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Oops, sorry, the table did not appear as I had constructed it!

 

Try a different way. The numbers 1-6 refer to the individual batteries:

 

1. Old SG range: 1.220-1.255. New SG range: 1.225-1.250. No. cells which increased by more than 0.05: 3. No. cells which decreased by more than 0.05: 0.

 

2. Old SG range: 1.225-1.260. New SG range: 1.235-1.245. No. cells which increased by more than 0.05: 2. No. cells which decreased by more than 0.05: 2

 

3. Old SG range: 1.230-1.260. New SG range: 1.240-1.260. No. cells which increased by more than 0.05: 4. No. cells which decreased by more than 0.05: 1

 

4. Old SG range: 1.225-1.250. New SG range: 1.240-1.250. No. cells which increased by more than 0.05: 3. No. cells which decreased by more than 0.05: 0.

 

5. Old SG range: 1.230-1.250. New SG range: 1.240-1.250. No. cells which increased by more than 0.05: 1. No. cells which decreased by more than 0.05: 0.

 

6. Old SG range: 1.225-1.250. New SG range: 1.245-1.250 . No. cells which increased by more than 0.05: 3. No. cells which decreased by more than 0.05: 0

 

Apols.

 

Bob

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Oops, sorry, the table did not appear as I had constructed it!

 

Try a different way. The numbers 1-6 refer to the individual batteries:

 

1. Old SG range: 1.220-1.255. New SG range: 1.225-1.250. No. cells which increased by more than 0.05: 3. No. cells which decreased by more than 0.05: 0.

 

2. Old SG range: 1.225-1.260. New SG range: 1.235-1.245. No. cells which increased by more than 0.05: 2. No. cells which decreased by more than 0.05: 2

 

3. Old SG range: 1.230-1.260. New SG range: 1.240-1.260. No. cells which increased by more than 0.05: 4. No. cells which decreased by more than 0.05: 1

 

4. Old SG range: 1.225-1.250. New SG range: 1.240-1.250. No. cells which increased by more than 0.05: 3. No. cells which decreased by more than 0.05: 0.

 

5. Old SG range: 1.230-1.250. New SG range: 1.240-1.250. No. cells which increased by more than 0.05: 1. No. cells which decreased by more than 0.05: 0.

 

6. Old SG range: 1.225-1.250. New SG range: 1.245-1.250 . No. cells which increased by more than 0.05: 3. No. cells which decreased by more than 0.05: 0

 

Apols.

 

Bob

 

I had hoped and expected that equalisation would give a better improvement than this, but at least its all good learning.

I also hope that Gibbo might make a contribution.

I am a very experienced engineer but my knowledge of batteries is limited to what I have learned by facing issues similar to yours on my own boat.

(this is my contribution to the new forum policy on electrical honesty ????)

Gibbo has broader experience of batteries.

However it looks like terminal suplhation to me.

Are you confident about your hydrometer technique? its not easy to be accurate despite what many will say.

If you can keep your electrical demand down then you may be able to muddle through with these batteries whilst you gain a bit more knowledge and experience.

I try to avoid "political" type contributions but:

Use solitors as a last resort, and only if you are sure you have a strong case...from your previous posts I can see some potential holes in yours. .

Treat all experts, (both amateur and professional) as bullshitters till they prove otherwise (confidence is often inversely proportional to knowledge).

Accept that even real experts can have different views of boat electrics and don't make expensive changes unless you are sure that they are required.

 

..........Dave

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I had hoped and expected that equalisation would give a better improvement than this, but at least its all good learning.

I also hope that Gibbo might make a contribution.

I am a very experienced engineer but my knowledge of batteries is limited to what I have learned by facing issues similar to yours on my own boat.

(this is my contribution to the new forum policy on electrical honesty ????)

Gibbo has broader experience of batteries.

However it looks like terminal suplhation to me.

Are you confident about your hydrometer technique? its not easy to be accurate despite what many will say.

If you can keep your electrical demand down then you may be able to muddle through with these batteries whilst you gain a bit more knowledge and experience.

I try to avoid "political" type contributions but:

Use solitors as a last resort, and only if you are sure you have a strong case...from your previous posts I can see some potential holes in yours. .

Treat all experts, (both amateur and professional) as bullshitters till they prove otherwise (confidence is often inversely proportional to knowledge).

Accept that even real experts can have different views of boat electrics and don't make expensive changes unless you are sure that they are required.

 

..........Dave

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Thanks, Dave.

 

Yes, the hydrometer is a little more difficult to use than I had expected, but I'm fairly sure that only a very small percentage of readings would be out by more than an infinitesimal amount. Am usually quite good at spotting the bullshitters (inability to write coherent English is often one sign!) but, hey, they are all trying to help.........

 

Ref. solicitors, I had tried to get this taken forward as part of my insurance legal cover, but the company of solicitors refused to do so because the policy for legal cover was not taken out on the day the vessel was purchased (yes, you read that correctly). As my brokers say, with concern, to the BMF: "any of our clients that purchase this legal cover after purchasing their vessel - which a great many do - would not be covered". Worrying. The BMF were unable to help. Solicitors will not take this on a "no win, no fee" basis as the value of the claim would be less than £5,000. I am reluctant to take this forward at my own expense, until I am sure of my ground. What "potential holes" do you see? (Jay: I had mentioned the Sale of Goods Act - goods must be fit for purpose - in a previous post, and have reminded the builders of their responsibilities under it).

 

Chris: although both the electrician here at the marina, and another Forum member, feel that the cabling/connections are not the source of the problem, it's a fair point about absence of photos which I said I would post. I use an IPAD (no flash), and have no PC Internet connection at present, and don't think it's possible to post photos with that combination (?). My problem, but that's the reason for the delay.

 

Last point, as I think we are coming to the end of the road on this (sound of cheering all round!): may I offer a heartfelt 'thank you' to all who have tried to help me with this problem, and particularly to Dave, Nick and Tony, who gave so much of their free time. It really has cheered me up to find so many kind people willing to offer their expertise to those who are 'challenged' in this area. If any of you happen to be on the Kingston part of the Thames, there are some excellent pubs around here, and the drinks are most certainly on me!

 

It's good to be part of this Forum.

 

Bob

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Thanks, Dave.

 

Yes, the hydrometer is a little more difficult to use than I had expected, but I'm fairly sure that only a very small percentage of readings would be out by more than an infinitesimal amount. Am usually quite good at spotting the bullshitters (inability to write coherent English is often one sign!) but, hey, they are all trying to help.........

 

Ref. solicitors, I had tried to get this taken forward as part of my insurance legal cover, but the company of solicitors refused to do so because the policy for legal cover was not taken out on the day the vessel was purchased (yes, you read that correctly). As my brokers say, with concern, to the BMF: "any of our clients that purchase this legal cover after purchasing their vessel - which a great many do - would not be covered". Worrying. The BMF were unable to help. Solicitors will not take this on a "no win, no fee" basis as the value of the claim would be less than £5,000. I am reluctant to take this forward at my own expense, until I am sure of my ground. What "potential holes" do you see? (Jay: I had mentioned the Sale of Goods Act - goods must be fit for purpose - in a previous post, and have reminded the builders of their responsibilities under it).

 

Chris: although both the electrician here at the marina, and another Forum member, feel that the cabling/connections are not the source of the problem, it's a fair point about absence of photos which I said I would post. I use an IPAD (no flash), and have no PC Internet connection at present, and don't think it's possible to post photos with that combination (?). My problem, but that's the reason for the delay.

 

Last point, as I think we are coming to the end of the road on this (sound of cheering all round!): may I offer a heartfelt 'thank you' to all who have tried to help me with this problem, and particularly to Dave, Nick and Tony, who gave so much of their free time. It really has cheered me up to find so many kind people willing to offer their expertise to those who are 'challenged' in this area. If any of you happen to be on the Kingston part of the Thames, there are some excellent pubs around here, and the drinks are most certainly on me!

 

It's good to be part of this Forum.

 

Bob

 

Hello Bob

 

I don't think Ive got the energy to re-read this entire thread, so forgive me if I'm wrong....

I think you have already accepted some payment or discount relating to the first failure so that probably prevents further claim on that one.

I also think that you said that You specified your high spec electrical system. It is possible that it could be argued that it is then your responsibility to make sure that you know exactly how to use it and that all its sub components are compatible. It depends if it was your request, or an option recomended by the builder that you agreed to?????.

You have also said on this public forum that you have not isolated your batteries when leaving the boat?????

 

On the big scheme of boating your losses so far are small (sinking, burst poo tank, total engine failure etc etc spring to mind) so move on and enjoy the boat. If we ever meet for a drink we will tell you some of our history, including buying a boat that is too wide to get into one or two locks!!!!!

Take care with legal action, the cut is a small place and staff do move from yard to yard...you don't want to find that other yards don't want to work for you in the future because you have an (unjustified) bad reputation.

 

By the way, I never could spell and I do not know my tables....but that does appear to be common in engineering!!!!!!

(also cant get my spell checker to work on this formum....that is much more worrying)

 

...........Dave

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Thanks, Dave.

 

Yes, the hydrometer is a little more difficult to use than I had expected, but I'm fairly sure that only a very small percentage of readings would be out by more than an infinitesimal amount. Am usually quite good at spotting the bullshitters (inability to write coherent English is often one sign!) but, hey, they are all trying to help.........

 

Ref. solicitors, I had tried to get this taken forward as part of my insurance legal cover, but the company of solicitors refused to do so because the policy for legal cover was not taken out on the day the vessel was purchased (yes, you read that correctly). As my brokers say, with concern, to the BMF: "any of our clients that purchase this legal cover after purchasing their vessel - which a great many do - would not be covered". Worrying. The BMF were unable to help. Solicitors will not take this on a "no win, no fee" basis as the value of the claim would be less than £5,000. I am reluctant to take this forward at my own expense, until I am sure of my ground. What "potential holes" do you see? (Jay: I had mentioned the Sale of Goods Act - goods must be fit for purpose - in a previous post, and have reminded the builders of their responsibilities under it).

 

Chris: although both the electrician here at the marina, and another Forum member, feel that the cabling/connections are not the source of the problem, it's a fair point about absence of photos which I said I would post. I use an IPAD (no flash), and have no PC Internet connection at present, and don't think it's possible to post photos with that combination (?). My problem, but that's the reason for the delay.

 

Last point, as I think we are coming to the end of the road on this (sound of cheering all round!): may I offer a heartfelt 'thank you' to all who have tried to help me with this problem, and particularly to Dave, Nick and Tony, who gave so much of their free time. It really has cheered me up to find so many kind people willing to offer their expertise to those who are 'challenged' in this area. If any of you happen to be on the Kingston part of the Thames, there are some excellent pubs around here, and the drinks are most certainly on me!

 

It's good to be part of this Forum.

 

Bob

Well paragraph one has nailed me well and truly.

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Given that way back in the mists of this thread Gibbo made a guess about terminal connections, how come you have neither described or photographed these?

 

Apologies if you did.

 

And what did the solicitor say?

 

What Chris said!

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Just my 2pence worth.....

 

The S.G. readings given are not typical of a fully charged wet lead acid leisure battery, after a proper equalisation charge you should be able to get the S.G. to 1270 or above (depending on the grade of acid used by the battery manufacturer). We have got some up as far as 1290 +

 

If you have a battery specialist local to you, it may be worth taking the set off and asking if they could fully charge and check the set for you, it is likely to cost you something for them to do it, but it might allow you to use the set for another year or so if they are given a clean bill of health. As mentioned by some on here, I don't believe a "proper and full" equalisation charge can be done with a normal marine automatic charger, as by their nature they will always reside on the side of caution when an equalisation charge requires extended periods of higher than normal charge inputs.

 

Of course the equalisation setting is always only going to be as good as the way the set is wired up... I assume it has been done correctly...

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Just my 2pence worth.....

 

The S.G. readings given are not typical of a fully charged wet lead acid leisure battery, after a proper equalisation charge you should be able to get the S.G. to 1270 or above (depending on the grade of acid used by the battery manufacturer). We have got some up as far as 1290 +

 

If you have a battery specialist local to you, it may be worth taking the set off and asking if they could fully charge and check the set for you, it is likely to cost you something for them to do it, but it might allow you to use the set for another year or so if they are given a clean bill of health. As mentioned by some on here, I don't believe a "proper and full" equalisation charge can be done with a normal marine automatic charger, as by their nature they will always reside on the side of caution when an equalisation charge requires extended periods of higher than normal charge inputs.

 

Of course the equalisation setting is always only going to be as good as the way the set is wired up... I assume it has been done correctly...

 

Could it be that either the original electrolyte was of an incorrect S.G. or subsequent to that it has either been topped with acid/water mix, or has lost acid/water mix and been topped with water only ?

 

Is electrolyte ever drained and refilled with the "correct mix" ? I imagine that is virtually impossible to do though, as you don't necessarily know what state of charge the plates are in...

 

Nick

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The last job I had in teaching (I am an Aircraft Electrical Engineer) was battery systems and battery technology at the Sultan of Omans Airforce Technical College. I wouldn't answer this OPs post and I am well qualified, though a little rusty, to do so. One or two of the comments here are laughable. If the boat is within warranty its back to the builder. All the volts amps and connections mentioned are not important.

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