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Beta spares...........Oouucchhhh


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Just bought a new thermostat and gasket from Beta. £37.06!!!!

 

Yikes....I never bought bits from beta. proper bits are easily available elsewhere for sensible money. I now have a Vetus who should be taken to court charged with fraud and extortion. :cheers:

 

Tim

Edited by mrsmelly
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Yikes....I never bought bits from beta. proper bits are easily available elsewhere for sensible money. I now have a Vetus who should be taken to court charged with fraud and extortion. :cheers:

 

Tim

 

That'll teach you to take the rip out of my reasons why one shouldn't boat in the North!

 

There obviously is (a)_ Poseidon

 

 

 

:lol:

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Try direct from a Kybota dealer ParT# 03THM1305 88degree

be much cheaper

 

Steve

 

Problem is you dont always have the part numbers and some parts might be different. I will search for a local Kybota dealer and ask some questions.

 

My problem is that the engine does not get any hotter than 155 degrees F (68 degree C). This can't be doing it much good, can it?

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How big is you skin tank and or Calorifer loops? Do you have any form of restriction into the hot water tank or can the water free flow through it?

 

If not you may want to put a ball valve on the inlet side of the engine to calorifer to sreduce the amount of heat thats being dumped into it.

 

hope this helps or gives you something to have a think on.

 

Sven

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I have two skin tanks, the total area is slightly larger than the size suggested by Beta. I also have two quite large hot water tanks however, I would have thought the engine would have warmed up to temprature before the water is circulated to skin tanks and hot water cylinders.

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My problem is that the engine does not get any hotter than 155 degrees F (68 degree C). This can't be doing it much good, can it?

You know some people would be glad <_<

 

When a thermostat goes, it normally stays closed? Are you sure the temperature gauge is working?

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I have two skin tanks, the total area is slightly larger than the size suggested by Beta. I also have two quite large hot water tanks however, I would have thought the engine would have warmed up to temprature before the water is circulated to skin tanks and hot water cylinders.

 

 

Not unless Beta have started fitting an extra "calorifier" thermostat. There is an ongoing discussion about the best way to plumb a calorifier.

 

Some say take the feed from between the thermostat and skin tank so the engine does warm up first. However this can make bleeding the calorifier circuit and getting the coolant to flow through that circuit more difficult. I (and I think Beta) take it from the cylinder head before the thermostat so the close stat helps force water through the calorifier This will extend the warm up times.

 

It is far from unknown for engines paired with a calorifier to have a 60 or 70 degree thermostat fitted to limit the maximum hot water temperature a little. I very much doubt the practical effect of running at 68 would be significant as long as you occasionally give it a good thrashing to rise the temperature of the cylinder walls etc.

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Surely it's good if your engine does not overheat? Mine runs at about 60 degrees centigrade and I'm quite pleased about that. Shouldn't I be?

Diesel engines should be more efficient the hotter they run, however an unpressurised system needs to run cooler than a pressurised one (since the pressure should stop boiling). Also you need a margin for when they are under load (when they generally produce the most heat). Petrol engines warm up quicker.

The thermostat will be between 72 and 85 and temperature will reach about 10 - 20 degrees about that, although each engine will have a designed running temperature.

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I have two skin tanks, the total area is slightly larger than the size suggested by Beta. I also have two quite large hot water tanks however, I would have thought the engine would have warmed up to temprature before the water is circulated to skin tanks and hot water cylinders.

 

You'll normally find the Beta engine's calorifier take off and return bypass the original thermostat... they certinally do on the 1305 &1505 and the 50hp.

 

Steve

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I very much doubt the practical effect of running at 68 would be significant as long as you occasionally give it a good thrashing to rise the temperature of the cylinder walls etc.

 

I have thrashed it on the River Lee several times and the temprature gauge never creeps above 155C. During the build I have run the engine whilst ashore, just above tick over for over an hour and the bugger still does not get hot!!

 

The general concensus is that it should not do any harm so at least that makes me feel a little better.

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How big is you skin tank and or Calorifer loops? Do you have any form of restriction into the hot water tank or can the water free flow through it?

 

If not you may want to put a ball valve on the inlet side of the engine to calorifer to sreduce the amount of heat thats being dumped into it.

 

hope this helps or gives you something to have a think on.

 

Sven

Good point Sven.

There is a quick and dirty check that can be performed, once the temperature gauge has been proved to be accurate.

Simply apply a restriction by squeezing one of the rubber hoses in the calorifier circuit. Mole grips would be ok,I'm not talking about crushing the pipe, just reducing the bore a little at a time to see if the two calorifiers are holding the engine temperature down.

If needed a gate type valve could be inserted in the calorifier ciruit. (gate valves are more common for this application, and are easier to wire lock in position once the optimum setting has been found)

Steve

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Good point Sven.

There is a quick and dirty check that can be performed, once the temperature gauge has been proved to be accurate.

Simply apply a restriction by squeezing one of the rubber hoses in the calorifier circuit. Mole grips would be ok,I'm not talking about crushing the pipe, just reducing the bore a little at a time to see if the two calorifiers are holding the engine temperature down.

If needed a gate type valve could be inserted in the calorifier ciruit. (gate valves are more common for this application, and are easier to wire lock in position once the optimum setting has been found)

Steve

 

 

Use brake pipe clamps instead of moles, its so easy to damage the inner core of flexible pipes.

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My understanding is that Beta fit a 71 degree thermostat as standard to stop, as they told me, the engine overheating if working hard on rivers.

 

I fitted an 82 degree stat over the winter but haven't been out on the boat since to see what effect that will have - I changed it in an attempt to get the calorifier water to stay hotter longer overnight (a long story discussed elsewhere hereon).

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Yikes....I never bought bits from beta. proper bits are easily available elsewhere for sensible money. I now have a Vetus who should be taken to court charged with fraud and extortion. :cheers:

 

Tim

Think you are being a bit unfair Tim, have you seen the price of that orange paint that they have to smother everything with? :)

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Think you are being a bit unfair Tim, have you seen the price of that orange paint that they have to smother everything with? :)

 

Hi Stan

 

I have to say the engine is performing very well at present :help:

 

 

Tim

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Yikes....I never bought bits from beta. proper bits are easily available elsewhere for sensible money. I now have a Vetus who should be taken to court charged with fraud and extortion. :cheers:

 

Tim

 

Try buying Volvo Penta bits if you think Vetus are expensive :rolleyes:

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Try direct from a Kybota dealer ParT# 03THM1305 88degree

be much cheaper

 

Steve

 

This puzzles me. Is there such a thing as a Kubota dealer? How does one find one?

 

Motor factors always ask you what vehicle the engine is in when asked for parts for a specific engine (e.g. BMS1500, Kubota, whatever) and go all vacant when you say it is in a boat.

 

Mike

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This puzzles me. Is there such a thing as a Kubota dealer? How does one find one?

 

Motor factors always ask you what vehicle the engine is in when asked for parts for a specific engine (e.g. BMS1500, Kubota, whatever) and go all vacant when you say it is in a boat.

 

Mike

 

I thought that Plant and Agricultural dealers were the place to buy Kubota bits

 

 

Such ashere

Edited by Grace & Favour
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Hi Stan

 

I have to say the engine is performing very well at present :help:

 

 

Tim

Don't tempt providence!! :) Glad it is behaving for you. I really like the Mitsu engine,it is one or two of the bolt on bits that let spoil it for me.

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