Water seepage along swim

[Ray T]

Whilst replacing a rotten panel in the engine room I have discovered the damage was caused by water seeping along the join between the top of the swim uxter plate and the side of the hull.

The water gets in via the engine hatch on the counter. Most of it drains into the bilge but a little follows the route described.

 

 

Obviously drilling holes to fit an angled bracket along the line of the shadow in the picture is out of the question!!!!

The next option is to have a lip welded to divert the water into the bildge.

 

An interim solution would be to araldite some "L" alloy angled strip across the swim uxter plate.

 

Any further solutions please?

 

And yes I am going to replace the crap insulation with Celotex.

Edited February 10, 2012 by Ray T

[eightpot]

Use "Chemical Metal" instead of Araldite. Goes off quicker and sticks like baby poo to the bedclothes. Also it doesn't need to be angle, a square section rod of suitable size will be sufficient. I had a bit glued to the gunwhale of my boat to divert rainwater. Did the job well.

 

Cheaper than hiring a tame welder to do the job and if you find it's in the wrong place, a hefty whack with a hitting implement should allow you to reposition.

[RLWP]

Whilst replacing a rotten panel in the engine room I have discovered the damage was caused by water seeping along the join between the top of the swim and the side of the hull.

 

<snip>

 

 

I'm not really sure what you mean. If water is coming in between the swim and the hull, your boat is sinking!

 

Richard

[RobinJ]

Whilst replacing a rotten panel in the engine room I have discovered the damage was caused by water seeping along the join between the top of the swim and the side of the hull.

The water gets in via the engine hatch on the counter. Most of it drains into the bilge but a little follows the route described.

Are you sure its not coming in through the vents on the side?

[Ray T]

I'm not really sure what you mean. If water is coming in between the swim and the hull, your boat is sinking!

 

Richard

 

The water runs along the inside of the top of the swim uxter plate.

 

 

 

My thoughts were to put a barrier across the swim uxter plate to divert the water into the bilge.

 

Some may be coming in via the vent but I cannot close this off as the batteries are just behind it and the vent allows air flow to help cool the engine bay and dissipate any battery charging gasses.

 

Thank you for the chemical metal suggestion.

Edited February 10, 2012 by Ray T

[Ryeland]

Are you sure it's not condensation? If it is, then a layer of insulation glued on to the hull will stop it.

 

To make a 'barrier' Marineflex or similar would be best. It's quite strong, but gives a bit unlike epoxy.

 

Richard

[Albion]

The water runs along the inside of the top of the swim

 

 

 

My thoughts were to put a barrier across the swim to divert the water into the bilge.

 

I had an identical problem with a boat of mine due to ingress from the deck down onto the swim. I solved the symptom (as it was impossible to cure the disease) by glueing and sealing some hardwood battens down on the top of the swim (at a slight angle) to divert any water ingress down into the bilge where it was dealt with like any other leakage. Your angle-section metal should work well too as long as you can get the sealant perfectly applied to sufficient height (doesn't need to be very high, of course) to force the water to divert into the bilge.

Roger

[Springer Skipper]

Another great stick stuff is Sikaflex 221,clean off your painted top or sand to metal,you get it in 310ml tubes gun applied. Itl stick,they make lorry bodies with it!

[Ray T]

Thanks for the ideas, keep 'em coming.

 

I have some "Gorilla Glue" I may give that a try.

[boaterbear]

i used silicon sealant and layed down a thick bead it stopped mine for a bit found most of mine was condensation are they heating pipes just above

[Ray T]

i used silicon sealant and layed down a thick bead it stopped mine for a bit found most of mine was condensation are they heating pipes just above

 

That's something I'd not thought about, thank you.

 

Have a greenie.

 

The pipes in the picture are the Eberspacher heating pipes, so that's a strong possibility, won't hurt to lag them.

Edited February 9, 2012 by Ray T

[blackrose]

The water runs along the inside of the top of the swim

 

 

 

 

But where is the water coming from?

 

I'm not sure if you're saying the welds are leaking or if you're saying the water is coming from above?

 

The point is to stop the ingress of water (or stop the condensation) - not simply divert it once it's in the boat.

Edited February 9, 2012 by blackrose

[Guest]

But where is the water coming from?

 

It sounds like you're saying the welds are leaking? Or are you saying it's coming from above?

 

The point is to stop the ingress of water - not simply divert it once it's in the boat.

 

Whilst replacing a rotten panel in the engine room I have discovered the damage was caused by water seeping along the join between the top of the swim and the side of the hull.

The water gets in via the engine hatch on the counter. Most of it drains into the bilge but a little follows the route described.

 

 

It's trickling along the top of the swims not seeping through is how I read it...

Edited February 9, 2012 by MJG

[Ray T]

But where is the water coming from?

 

It sounds like you're saying the welds are leaking? Or are you saying it's coming from above?

 

The point is to stop the ingress of water - not simply divert it once it's in the boat.

 

The gully at the stern where the engine hatch sits is not very deep and either rain water and / or water coming up the rudder tube, if I have to rev the engine hard in reverse, runs into the engine compartment. Most of this runs into the bilge but some runs along the top of the swim uxter plate and sits where I have arrowed.

 

Also the boat sits bow high in the water so rain water can sit in the gullies without running away, then overflow into the engine compartment.

 

Without major and expensive welding work, as Albion said, I cannot cure the disease but I can address the symptom.

 

I regularly clean the gullies and the overflows.

 

 

Another way of addressing the problem would be to put a couple of drain tubes from the gully into the bilge.

Edited February 10, 2012 by Ray T

[alan_fincher]

I can see exactly where Ray is coming from.

 

"Chalice" has had similar issues recently, both because the design of the back cabin doors are less than fully watertight (when closed) against driving rain, and because (probably) there has been some leakage through weed hatch seals.

 

Whilst I knew that some of this small amount of unwanted water dripped down from the uxter plate and into the normal catchment area under the stern tube, I hadn't realised that some was running forward further on the uxter plate, and being wicked into insulation under the linings at that point, (and hence getting at the wood from the "invisible", side).

 

A bit of a mess when we did pull it apart.

 

I have simply stuck hardwood strip to the uxter using one of those Sikaflex type products at the point I don't want any unwanted water to go forward of, (I've also put new seals on the weed hatch - but can't easily solve the inadequacies of the back doors!).

 

I believe the ridge formed by this strip is more than sufficient to divert any small amount of water into the area where a bilge pump can deal with it. Perhaps not perfect, but the £1 solution, rather than a lot of welding work to remodel the doors!

[Chertsey]

 

 

And yes I am going to replace the crap insulation with Celotex.

That sounds like a big and possibly unnecessary job. There's nothing wrong with polystyrene.

[blackrose]

The gully at the stern where the engine hatch sits is not very deep and either rain water and / or water coming up the rudder tube, if I have to rev the engine hard in reverse, runs into the engine compartment. Most of this runs into the bilge but some runs along the top of the swim and sits where I have arrowed.

 

Also the boat sits bow high in the water so rain water can sit in the gullies without running away, then overflow into the engine compartment.

 

Without major and expensive welding work, as Albion said, I cannot cure the disease but I can address the symptom.

 

I regularly clean the gullies and the overflows.

 

 

Another way of addressing the problem would be to put a couple of drain tubes from the gully into the bilge.

 

I see. So the water in the hatch gutters is meant to run out and overboard via channels under where the doors are in that picture?

 

Why not just cut a hole and get a 19mm OD steel hosetail pipe welded into the widest part of the gutter at the back? Then you can attach some hose with stainless hose clips, the other end of which would go to a brass hosetail skin fitting in the side of the boat (10" above the waterline).

 

Having a hosetail pipe welded into that gutter isn't going to cost a fortune and the rest you can do yourself for about 20 quid.

Edited February 9, 2012 by blackrose

[Radiomariner]

Another way of addressing the problem would be to put a couple of drain tubes from the gully into the bilge.

 

Or better still divert it overboard.

 

I see. So the water in the hatch gutters is meant to run out and overboard via channels under where the doors are in that picture?

 

Why not just cut a hole and get a 19mm OD steel hosetail pipe welded into the widest part of the gutter at the back? Then you can attach some hose with stainless hose clips, the other end of which would go to a brass hosetail skin fitting in the side of the boat (10" above the waterline).

 

Having a hosetail pipe welded into that gutter isn't going to cost a fortune and the rest you can do yourself for about 20 quid.

You beat me to it.

 

Edited to add: I had trouble understanding the OP untill I saw the pictures and realised that by "Swim" he meant the "Uxter or Counter Plate" Is it normal nowadays to call this the swim?

Edited February 9, 2012 by Radiomariner

[blackrose]

Edited to add: I had trouble understanding the OP untill I saw the pictures and realised that by "Swim" he meant the "Uxter or Counter Plate" Is it normal nowadays to call this the swim?

 

I don't think so? He said the top of the swim so I guess he was nearly there.

[Radiomariner]

I don't think so? He said the top of the swim so I guess he was nearly there.

Good, I am glad I am not so much out of touch!

[Ray T]

Good, I am glad I am not so much out of touch!

 

 

When I typed the original piece I had a "senior" moment and couldn't remember what the uxter plate was called!!!

 

Yes the water is supposed to drain away through the channels beneath the doors.

[blackrose]

Cutting a hole in the rear gutter and making a hose downpipe that drains through a skin fitting in the side of the boat is your best bet. Then the water can either drain through that or forward via the front channels to the sides. You'll have to keep the downpipe clear of leaves, etc, with a wire coat hanger or piece of stiff cable, so use clear braided PVC hose and you'll be able to see if there's any crap building up in it. It's interesting to note that contrary to popular belief, it's not just owners of cruiser sterns who have to deal with this issue.

Edited February 10, 2012 by blackrose

[Radiomariner]

Cutting a hole in the rear gutter and making a hose downpipe that drains through a skin fitting in the side of the boat is your best bet. Then the water can either drain through that or forward via the front channels to the sides. You'll have to keep the downpipe clear of leaves, etc, with a wire coat hanger or piece of stiff cable, so use clear braided PVC hose and you'll be able to see if there's any crap building up in it. It's interesting to note that contrary to popular belief, it's not just owners of cruiser sterns who have to deal with this issue.

 

 

Yes. As an examiner I have seen lots of boats with unnecessary internal rust because drain gully is not kept clear.

Point of interest: I have seen a number of newish boats which appear to have such a drain of steel pipe going straight down and through the bottom plate. Might be OK now, but will be a matter of concern as the boat gets older.

[tosher]

My bet would be condensation, especially if the engine is run in these sub zero temperatures. If it is a leak then the source must be identified.

[MoominPapa]

Point of interest: I have seen a number of newish boats which appear to have such a drain of steel pipe going straight down and through the bottom plate. Might be OK now, but will be a matter of concern as the boat gets older.

A good idea a saw somewhere is to lead the drain pipe to the side of the weed-hatch trunk, above the water level. That avoids the flooding risk you're worrying about, and keeps the inevitable rusty stain from the pipe from being visible on the side of the boat.

 

MP.