Re-furbuishing Anodised Aluminium Windows

[David Schweizer]

Does anyone have any bright ideas on how to re-furbish anodised aluminium window frames?

 

We are having Helvetia re-painted later this year, and the boat painter has suggested we might like to take the windows home to re-furbish them. I have no problem with replacing seals and flock lined slides etc, but I have no idea how, or whether, the anodised frames can be tidied up.

 

Obviously any paint and dirt can be removed with care, but in a few places the anodised finish is a bit rough, having suffered from careless sanding by a previous owner. Also they are a bit dull, and whilst polish seems to re-juvinate them for a while, they soon return to dull.

 

Is there a propriety product that will return the shine, without compromising the anodised finish, or does anyone have any other ideas?

[JerryP]

You could try "solvol autosol" and a fine grade steelwool ,i've used it on rocker covers with very good results

[bizzard]

Does anyone have any bright ideas on how to re-furbish anodised aluminium window frames?

 

We are having Helvetia re-painted later this year, and the boat painter has suggested we might like to take the windows home to re-furbish them. I have no problem with replacing seals and flock lined slides etc, but I have no idea how, or whether, the anodised frames can be tidied up.

 

Obviously any paint and dirt can be removed with care, but in a few places the anodised finish is a bit rough, having suffered from careless sanding by a previous owner. Also they are a bit dull, and whilst polish seems to re-juvinate them for a while, they soon return to dull.

 

Is there a propriety product that will return the shine, without compromising the anodised finish, or does anyone have any other ideas?

We used to rejuvenate anodized dinghy masts by rubbing WD40 on them every so often.My windows i've painted,with an etch primer first and then black smooth Hammerite,it has stayed on well.

[koukouvagia]

You could try "solvol autosol" and a fine grade steelwool ,i've used it on rocker covers with very good results

 

Yes, I've used this on motorbike alloy wheels. However this seems designed for anodised aluminium windows. Not used it myself - just googling round in an idle moment.

[David Schweizer]

Yes, I've used this on motorbike alloy wheels. However this seems designed for anodised aluminium windows. Not used it myself - just googling round in an idle moment.

Yes I found the Everbrite site, but it is US based and refers to prrepartion products that I have never heard of. So far I have been unable to find a UK supplier.

Edited February 8, 2012 by David Schweizer

[bizzard]

Autosol is good,made for aluminium. You could have the frames re-anodized of course,and a different colour if you wish.

[Grace and Favour]

David,

As far as I can see, the only way to refurbish anodised aluminium windows id to re-anodise them

There's a great site here that takes one through the whole process

 

Could be an interesting project (!)

[richardf]

I know Phil Speight has spray painted them black in the past, but I can't remember what what he used. They did look rather good once done - and of course other colours are available. I'm sure John Sanderson will know.

[alan_fincher]

David,

 

As an aside, do you know how they are fastened in, and, if screws, what material they are ?

 

I ask, because Chalice had an unfortunate combination of metals, making the aluminium frames the sacrificila anode part of the equation.

 

Some of the screw holes proved by then to be a bit larger (!) than when manufactured, though fortunately not to the point of being unusable.

 

Hopefully your boat builder was more sensible about materials used, (assuming they are the original fastenings of course), but just something to be aware can happen.

[David Schweizer]

David,

 

As an aside, do you know how they are fastened in, and, if screws, what material they are ?

 

I ask, because Chalice had an unfortunate combination of metals, making the aluminium frames the sacrificila anode part of the equation.

 

Some of the screw holes proved by then to be a bit larger (!) than when manufactured, though fortunately not to the point of being unusable.

 

Hopefully your boat builder was more sensible about materials used, (assuming they are the original fastenings of course), but just something to be aware can happen.

The fastenings are stainless steel woodscrews through the steel cabin sides and into timber battens. Over the years I have had several windows out to cure leaks (The most recent being last year) and there has never been any sign of corrosion

[lexicon]

Hi folks

 

would brass screws cause any issues through ally frames into wood?

 

as i must get round to putting portholes into lexicon soon (its darker than a badgers lair atm)

[alan_fincher]

Hi folks

 

would brass screws cause any issues through ally frames into wood?

 

as i must get round to putting portholes into lexicon soon (its darker than a badgers lair atm)

YES!

 

Brass screws with aluminium frames will result in the frames giving up their metal, and the holes eventually getting too big.

[Rebotco]

Hi folks

 

would brass screws cause any issues through ally frames into wood?

 

as i must get round to putting portholes into lexicon soon (its darker than a badgers lair atm)

 

 

DONT use brass screws in ali frames. The copper element in brass will result in electrolytic action between the dissimilar metals. Otherwise known as corrosion!

 

My aluminium windows were re-anodised just before I bought the boat.

 

They had originally been installed with aluminium pop-rivets. They were reinstalled using stainless steel screws (to make it easier next time).

 

I believe the re-anodising was done by the original window manufacturer, Caldwell Windows.

[lexicon]

ok stainless screws it is then

 

thanks for the info folks.

[sharpness]

I have heard of someone who took their windows out and had them powder coated, might be worth researching a bit.

 

Steve

[Higgs]

My prefered long-winded way is best done with the windows out. Thoroughly clean window frames and rubber. Sand frame with fine paper. Straighten any kinks out with a rubber mallet. Wipe surface and de-grease.

 

Mask up window glass. Spray with etch-primer. Spray with auto paint of your choosing. Good for years, and you have a better range of colours than the few on offer as anodised finishes. If you really want to go mental - spray enough screw or rivets with same colour. The finish is well worth the effort - it's also very cheap.

 

Masking up - if you're not used to it. Lay a line of masking tape around the window first. Making sure you cover the rubber. It's then relatively easy to finish the rest without fiddling with being accurate.

 

The trouble with any anodised finishes is in the fitting. If the windows are over-tightened you will end up with stress marks around the screw holes.

Edited February 9, 2012 by Higgs

[bag 'o' bones]

A sign writer friend of mine uses weak nitric acid to clean off corrosion from aluminium extrusions used to frame his signs.

 

I m pretty sure you can buy a product used to clean aluminium truck bodies which is basically the same stuff. similar again to that of 'wonder wheels'

 

Powder coating sounds a good idea and not disimilar to the process used to paint alloy wheels I imagine.

[richardf]

In my opinion there is only one way to fix windows back in - and I know that John Sanderson does it this way.

 

The problem of leaking windows is often caused by the screw that holds them in being a clearance fit through the steelwork and then fixing to the wooden frames behind. In time the wood shrinks and the screws become loose (or not quite as tight as they were). The solution is to run a tap through the steel cabin and then attach the windows using stainless machine screws - they look much neater and will stay as tight as the day they were fitted. It's a bit long winded, but worth it.

[David Schweizer]

In my opinion there is only one way to fix windows back in - and I know that John Sanderson does it this way.

 

The problem of leaking windows is often caused by the screw that holds them in being a clearance fit through the steelwork and then fixing to the wooden frames behind. In time the wood shrinks and the screws become loose (or not quite as tight as they were). The solution is to run a tap through the steel cabin and then attach the windows using stainless machine screws - they look much neater and will stay as tight as the day they were fitted. It's a bit long winded, but worth it.

Or you could go round the boat and tweak the screws. Strangely, John Sanderson (who is painting our boat later this year) never mentioned his "preferred method" to me, but it might explain why he clarified that I had already got a supply of new Stainless Woodscrews (and window tape!).

 

I am bemused by your "look much neater" observation, countersunk machine screw heads are identical in appearance to traditional Woodscrerw heads.

Edited February 9, 2012 by David Schweizer

[Grace and Favour]

>>

 

I am bemused by your "look much neater" observation, countersunk machine screw heads are identical in appearance to traditional Woodscrerw heads.

 

Though they look even better if they are countersunk allen key machine screws

[sharpness]

Is the aluminium thick enough for countersinking, aren't the screws usually pan heads?

 

Steve

[Psycloud]

Or you could go round the boat and tweak the screws. Strangely, John Sanderson (who is painting our boat later this year) never mentioned his "preferred method" to me, but it might explain why he clarified that I had already got a supply of new Stainless Woodscrews (and window tape!).

 

 

Resurrecting this as will have ours out later this year when painting the boat. Am curious as to the requirement of "window tape" - where do you use this?

 

Thanks

 

David

[BEngo]

Resurrecting this as will have ours out later this year when painting the boat. Am curious as to the requirement of "window tape" - where do you use this?

 

Thanks

 

David

"Window tape" is the closed cell neoprene foam, sticky on one side only, that goes between the window frame and the boat to make a watertight seal when the screws are tightened. Seals Direct do it, as may various chandlers. An alternative which is handy where the sides are not flat is butyl sealant which is a goo that doesn't set and comes as either tape in various widths or as a gun-applied sealant. There is also Marineflex in various varieties, but I've not used that.

 

Silicone sealants are not suitable because the bed round a window is always too thin to produce a good long term seal.

 

N

[Psycloud]

Thank you - I know the stuff you mean (didn't realise that was it's name ). Will make sure I use that or the butyl depending on the state of the frames / surround when I remove them.

[smileypete]

Unless the sides are really flat and fair, I think I'd try a hybrid approach of window tape/neoprene foam strip AND decent goo like Sika 261 or Marineflex alongside alongside each other, some more details in this post:

 

http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=52754&page=2#entry989742

 

That way the tape will guarantee a minimum seam thickness and also make future removal easier, but the sealant will take up unevenness in the cabin sides and protect the tape even.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited May 11, 2013 by smileypete