Jump to content

2lw data?


GSer

Featured Posts

Just picked up my head and block, all sorted and ready for assembly.

 

One problem is that i cant find my gardner book to confirm cylinder head torque values and valve clearances, i don't suppose anybody has a book handy?

 

The other question is about the injectors, when i took the head for testing the injectors were in place, when i collected the head the injectors had been removed and there seems no indication as to the nature of seal used between the head and the injector body,normally a copper washer but nothing looks obvious in the gasket set?

 

Cheers

 

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just picked up my head and block, all sorted and ready for assembly.

 

One problem is that i cant find my gardner book to confirm cylinder head torque values and valve clearances, i don't suppose anybody has a book handy?

 

The other question is about the injectors, when i took the head for testing the injectors were in place, when i collected the head the injectors had been removed and there seems no indication as to the nature of seal used between the head and the injector body,normally a copper washer but nothing looks obvious in the gasket set?

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

 

Torque half inch BSF nuts 11.5kg/m.

3/8ths BSF nuts 4.0kg/m.

 

Valve clearance cold .005" inlet, .011" exhaust.

 

I can't find anything in service book covering injector replacement and my spares list is on the boat. If no-one has answered by Sat teatime I should have the answer by then.

 

George ex nb Alton retired

Link to comment
Share on other sites

According to the info I have (operating manual, page 39, section 69-1) the sprayer is tapered and the cyclinder head has a straight hole.

When the sprayer is in place the sprayer is sealed by carbon build up in the "annulus" (my word)

 

NB - I quote- "it requires realtively little screw pressure to make a tight joint on the conical seat"

 

 

 

If you get "cornered" please call me and I'll read the entire section to you.

Edited by andywatson
Link to comment
Share on other sites

According to the info I have (operating manual, page 39, section 69-1) the sprayer is tapered and the cyclinder head has a straight hole.

When the sprayer is in place the sprayer is sealed by carbon build up in the "annulus" (my word)

 

NB - I quote- "it requires realtively little screw pressure to make a tight joint on the conical seat"

 

 

 

If you get "cornered" please call me and I'll read the entire section to you.

 

 

That is handy and would explain the lack of suitable washer/seal in the gasket set. Does it mention a torque setting for the injector nuts?

 

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is handy and would explain the lack of suitable washer/seal in the gasket set. Does it mention a torque setting for the injector nuts?

 

Paul

 

Gardners used to supply a special tube spanner with a very short tommy bar for the injector nuts, to reduce risk of people overtightening them. The conical seat puts stress on the head if overtightened, lots of them are cracked across the injector seat although this isn't always a major problem - they can run for years like that if the crack isn't too bad.

 

Tim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gardners used to supply a special tube spanner with a very short tommy bar for the injector nuts, to reduce risk of people overtightening them. The conical seat puts stress on the head if overtightened, lots of them are cracked across the injector seat although this isn't always a major problem - they can run for years like that if the crack isn't too bad.

 

Tim

 

 

My old head was cracked by the injector hole and from the waterjacket into no1 inlet gallery

 

 

I'll have to take special care tightening the injectors down, i wonder how long the t bar was on the special tool?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My old head was cracked by the injector hole and from the waterjacket into no1 inlet gallery

 

 

I'll have to take special care tightening the injectors down, i wonder how long the t bar was on the special tool?

 

Something around 2.5" I think.

I'll put up a pic later.

 

Later engines has an undersize hexagon on the injector nuts, also to discourage overtightening.

 

Tim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

According to the info I have (operating manual, page 39, section 69-1) the sprayer is tapered and the cyclinder head has a straight hole.

When the sprayer is in place the sprayer is sealed by carbon build up in the "annulus" (my word)

 

NB - I quote- "it requires realtively little screw pressure to make a tight joint on the conical seat"

 

 

 

The head has a conical seat to match the conical nut on the sprayer.

Another Gardner special tool was a seat reamer, made to clean off carbon etc from the conical seat.

 

 

 

 

My old head was cracked by the injector hole and from the waterjacket into no1 inlet gallery

 

 

I'll have to take special care tightening the injectors down, i wonder how long the t bar was on the special tool?

 

Here's a pic, this one is for the older nuts with a full-sized hexagon:-

 

Sprayerkey-1.jpg

 

The brass label reads:-

"Sprayer key.

Tighten the clamp nuts only with this key.

If the nuts are screwed up too tightly the sprayer cannot work properly"

 

The tommy bar is 2 3/8" long

 

 

Tim

Edited by Timleech
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Tim

 

I ended up using a snap-on palm rachet, i think it would be almost impossible to overtighten with one of those.

 

Looks like i need to keep an eye out for a few special gardner tools

 

All up and running now

 

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Torque setting for the sprayer clamp is 80lb-in (5/16W)

 

I normally just nip them up and before starting with the rocker cover off squirt some oil around the sprayer, then start the engine,it will then be apparant if they are not tight enough. It is also essential that the clamp is not distorted as this will affect the way the nut pulls down.

Most times it is neccessary to straighten the clamp as they become bent very easily, (Brummagem screwdriver does the job very easily)

 

Steve

Edited by Split Pin
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Tim

 

I ended up using a snap-on palm rachet, i think it would be almost impossible to overtighten with one of those.

 

Looks like i need to keep an eye out for a few special gardner tools

 

All up and running now

 

Paul

 

 

That's good news, I hope that your engine problems are over now to enable you to continue with the rest.

 

Cheers,

 

Peter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, still got a bit to do, not too bad though, i hope to have most of it finished by easter, motivation is now my biggest problem, almost at the Stage where i'll have a comfey chair and a warm fire, work rate may suffer then :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just picked up my head and block, all sorted and ready for assembly.

 

One problem is that i cant find my gardner book to confirm cylinder head torque values and valve clearances, i don't suppose anybody has a book handy?

 

The other question is about the injectors, when i took the head for testing the injectors were in place, when i collected the head the injectors had been removed and there seems no indication as to the nature of seal used between the head and the injector body,normally a copper washer but nothing looks obvious in the gasket set?

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

If you have had the block refaced dont forget to get the piston crown to block face height right. to large a gap and the compression ratio will be down and depending on how far cause smoke and poor starting and too tight and you will end up with rather worrying piston/valve contact closely followed by a failed engine.

 

Clearance should be nominal 0.444", max 0.514", min 0.384"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have had the block refaced dont forget to get the piston crown to block face height right. to large a gap and the compression ratio will be down and depending on how far cause smoke and poor starting and too tight and you will end up with rather worrying piston/valve contact closely followed by a failed engine.

 

Clearance should be nominal 0.444", max 0.514", min 0.384"

 

 

Yes, although the 'squish' clearance wasn't checked, much beyond confirming the valves had plenty of clearance and that the engine turned ok, the dimensions of the block were checked and remained well within gardner tolerances. The engine starts very easily but does show a whif of smoke on tickover, i'll wait untill the bores have had a chance to bed in before worrying too much about that.

 

Up untill now she wouldn't have been out of place protecting covoys from attack by creating a smokescreen :D

 

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.