Alan Dixon Surveys - Cheshire

[theguitardoctor]

If anyone is in need of a surveyor, I can highly recommend Alan Dixon of Middlewich, Cheshire....

 

http://www.leisurecraftmarineservices.co.uk/

 

He spent a day and a half on the boat we're in the process of buying, and was incredibly detailed in his findings. He even picked up that the 2 gas pipe clips either side of the shut off valve were spaced too far apart...

 

There were even 2 of them working together for the first day...(Alan + 1...not gas clips working together, before this gets misinterpreted... )

 

Not the cheapest out there, but very thorough and highly recommended.

Edited November 8, 2011 by theguitardoctor

[onionbargee]

some surveyors make their money, by giving you 4 pages of whaffle about gas pipe clip spacing, pattern on the curtains , and other irrelevant cobblers.

[LoneWolf]

some surveyors make their money, by giving you 4 pages of whaffle about gas pipe clip spacing, pattern on the curtains , and other irrelevant cobblers.

 

for 2 1/2 man days i'd want at least 10 pages

[onionbargee]

I wasnt refering to this particular surveyor, just in general.

[Guest Quo Vadis]

Both the surveyor and the Boat Safety guy involved in my boat purchase missed this!!!

 

 

It shows the fresh air inlet for the Alde boiler ripped to shreds. It was also mangled and torn at the lower joint as well, meaning that the boiler is breathing from inside the boat, not outside. The cobwebs on the ducting showed that this was a fairly old fault.

My faith in those "professionals" involved is now somewhat dented, and their names are never likely to appear in my cheque book.

[mrsmelly]

Wow, that's not good...!!

 

Alan picked up on the fact that our gas locker vents were actually below the waterline, so the gas locker had sludge in it. Consequently it needs welding and redrilling to be safe. Boat Safety passed it (already present)....along with the loose gas lines in the locker...!

 

Several boatbuilders over the years have made shells with gas locker vents below the waterline........

[Idunhoe]

When you do get the existing gas locker holes welded and new ones drilled dont forget to raise the floor of the locker itself as the regulations do require the gas drain holes to be at the lowest point of the locker

[WotEver]

Wow, that's not good...!!

 

Alan picked up on the fact that our gas locker vents were actually below the waterline, so the gas locker had sludge in it. Consequently it needs welding and redrilling to be safe. Boat Safety passed it (already present)....along with the loose gas lines in the locker...!

Nothing to do with safety. It's safe (and BSS compliant) now if the holes are at the bottom of the locker. If you raise the holes above the bottom it will fail its next BSS.

 

Tony

[Guest]

Nothing to do with safety. It's safe (and BSS compliant) now if the holes are at the bottom of the locker. If you raise the holes above the bottom it will fail its next BSS.

 

Tony

 

It will fail, it's not compliant as it is.

 

From the BSS guidelines -

All cylinder lockers must be fitted with a drain.

Cylinder locker drain outlets must be above the normal laden waterline.

 

They can be raised marginally though can they not -

Note – Drain openings on the side of cylinder lockers not greater than

25mm (1 in) above the bottom of the locker may be considered as at

the lowest point of the side.

 

So an inch might just do it??

Edited November 9, 2011 by MJG

[WotEver]

Slots would appear to be simplest.

 

If you weld up the bottom holes and the bottom of the locker remains where it is then it will become permanently full of water which is unable to drain and will rot.

 

Tony

[Timleech]

The idea is obviously to clean and dry out gas locker, paint locker and weld up current vents which are below the waterline, then pour in concrete or similar to allow gas bottles to sit higher. Then finally drill new holes/slots to allow gas to escape should it leak, thus making the whole thing as dry as it should be.

 

cold-pour 'tarmac', in bags from a builder's merchant, might be a better bet.

 

Tim

[WotEver]

Ok, I'll pass that on to the boat yard...I'm presuming in the same manner as blacking...it has water resistant properties that out perform poured concrete..??

I would guess that it's also less likely to cause corrosion to the steel.

 

Tony

[Albion]

Thanks for that, I did worry about the alkaline nature of concrete but expected that to deplete quite rapidly post setting (1 hour in the case of some mixes)...you don't think that is the case then...? My chemistry days are long gone...

 

Would the paint/blacking between the steel and concrete form a decent barrier.

 

From what has been in the news recently about concrete failure on bridges with steel reinforcing rods I would be cautious about using concrete against steel no matter how well you think you've separated the two materials. If they can't always get it right on road bridges then it might also be dubious on your boat. Also you won't be able to see what is going on underneath the concrete until it is too late. I think Wotever's suggestion of vertical slots might be better. Friends of mine have Hudsons which frequently have water in the gas locker but I cannot remember now whether they are permanently submerged or it just occurs under cruising conditions.

Roger

[carlt]

Friends of mine have Hudsons which frequently have water in the gas locker but I cannot remember now whether they are permanently submerged or it just occurs under cruising conditions.

 

The girth of the surveyor/examiner may be relevant, on small boats.

[WotEver]

Vertical slots would be a good idea, but the current ones, even if made larger, would still be taking on water...whether this is a concern or not with gas bottles I'm not sure...Maybe I should fit anodes to them... just to be safe...

See 7.3 here.

 

Tony

[AlanH]

Ok thanks for that...I think welding up the old holes and lining the bottom of the locker with something else non-corrosive is the answer.

 

Vertical slots would be a good idea, but the current ones, even if made larger, would still be taking on water...whether this is a concern or not with gas bottles I'm not sure...Maybe I should fit anodes to them... just to be safe...

The vent at the bottom of our gas locker is about 2" above the waterline. It is always wet inside but it is blacked and the fact that it is wet doesn't matter a jot.

Hoe about lining it with polythene at the bottom and then using concrete?

[Timleech]

One thing to bear in mind is that if your locker vents are very close to, or partially below, the water line then the locker should be treated as part of the hull in terms of inspection and maintenance.

 

Tim

[Guest]

One thing to bear in mind is that if your locker vents are very close to, or partially below, the water line then the locker should be treated as part of the hull in terms of inspection and maintenance.

 

Tim

 

Worth noting - I know ours are very close when the water tank is full/nearly full and accordingly we do get some water in them especially if pushing hard on a river.

[WotEver]

Isn't most ballast concrete (loose or poured)...

Nope.

 

Paving slabs, engineering bricks, slabs of steel and other metals, all of those are common. Concrete is rare because of the associated corrosion.

 

Tony

[sociable_hermit]

How easy is it to get beneath the floor?

 

Might be easier to remove some ballast from the front end so the bow sits higher, exposing the gas locker vents.

 

Or just never fill your drinking water tank right up, and keep the diesel tank brimmed!

[WotEver]

In the end, I think the best option is to go gas free.....

Madness.

 

Tony

[Thewatchmaker]

cold-pour 'tarmac', in bags from a builder's merchant, might be a better bet.

 

Tim

 

Surely with the concentrated weight of the cylinders they will sink into it?

[Chris-B]

Yes, that might be an option as they're only just under the waterline but I think it would be quite a job to get to the front ballast now as there are solid oak floorboards laid down.

 

Do you think the raised bow would affect stability on the cut? ...it's not a mod I've ever undertaken or had a before/after experience of. The boat seems to sit fairly high anyway and has a kosher style bow.

 

I should mention that the massive toilet tank is pretty full pulling the stern down and we're still vents underwater, so I think it would have to go the way of the ballast removal or weld up, etc.

 

I hope it tastes ok

[cloggy]

Cant you just cut new holes above the water line leaving the existing ones open. This way you wont have to raise the floor level. Both of our boats have fairly wet gas lockers, suggest you clean out your locker and give it a good coat of blacking and dont worry about it.

Dont forget raising the floor with concrete will add a hell of a lot of ballast to the front end putting it deeper in the water.

 

Hope this helps (and is correct advice)

[Guest]

Cant you just cut new holes above the water line leaving the existing ones open. This way you wont have to raise the floor level. Both of our boats have fairly wet gas lockers, suggest you clean out your locker and give it a good coat of blacking and dont worry about it.

Dont forget raising the floor with concrete will add a hell of a lot of ballast to the front end putting it deeper in the water.

 

Hope this helps (and is correct advice)

 

The problem is the vents can be no more than 1 inch above the lowest point of the locker, otherwise the gas which is heavier than air won't 'spill' out the vents and will build up.

 

 

see post #12

Edited November 11, 2011 by MJG