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My 2lw needs a bit of engineering work, head and block skimming, rebore, valves overhauling, the whole top end crack testing.

 

I'd like to use a Gardner specialist if at all possible, who's best?

 

All stripped and ready to be delivered I just need to know who I can trust, or perhaps who to avoid!

 

Paul

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My 2lw needs a bit of engineering work, head and block skimming, rebore, valves overhauling, the whole top end crack testing.

 

I'd like to use a Gardner specialist if at all possible, who's best?

 

All stripped and ready to be delivered I just need to know who I can trust, or perhaps who to avoid!

 

Paul

 

 

Not sure where you are based, but my 2L2 will go back to Redshaws in Braunston when it needs a bit of TLC.

 

edited to add - How do you know when you need the above sort of works carrying out??...overheating, oil pressure or other.....

Edited by matty40s
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My 2lw needs a bit of engineering work, head and block skimming, rebore, valves overhauling, the whole top end crack testing.

 

I'd like to use a Gardner specialist if at all possible, who's best?

 

All stripped and ready to be delivered I just need to know who I can trust, or perhaps who to avoid!

 

Paul

 

I believe Walshs are supposed to be Ok but I've never had any direct experience (see: http://www.gardnerdiesel.co.uk/index.html)

 

Edited to add that I should have mentioned Danny Williamson but he's semi-retired these days and may also be out of the country at the moment.

Roger

Edited by Albion
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My 2lw needs a bit of engineering work, head and block skimming, rebore, valves overhauling, the whole top end crack testing.

 

I'd like to use a Gardner specialist if at all possible, who's best?

 

All stripped and ready to be delivered I just need to know who I can trust, or perhaps who to avoid!

 

Paul

 

Another vote for Tony Redshaw. Not cheap but then you probably wouldn't want him to be.

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My 2lw needs a bit of engineering work, head and block skimming, rebore, valves overhauling, the whole top end crack testing.

 

I'd like to use a Gardner specialist if at all possible, who's best?

 

All stripped and ready to be delivered I just need to know who I can trust, or perhaps who to avoid!

 

Paul

 

 

If anywhere near the North West:-

 

I take all my stuff like that to Micro Precision Engineering just outside Warrington.

Not Gardner specialists but they're well used to all sorts of old engine stuff that I (and others) bring them.

 

Tim

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I have heard good reports of the following three:

 

Cotes Park Commercials at Alfreton on 01773 521211

IIRC the contact is Rob Knowles.

They also have a very good service man who works freelance for them when required.

 

Jim Evans, owner of Gazelle, speaks highly of Richard Mulligan.

He lives on a boat but I don't have his mobile to hand.

Does anyone have his number?

 

You could also try Steve Gray at Stourbridge on 01384 827745

He is editor of the Gardner owners club mag and his wife is treasurer so their knowledge or committment can't be questioned.

 

EDIT to add:

Charles Mills at Poynton on the Macc. 07712 052635

Edited by andywatson
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I have heard good reports of the following three:

 

Cotes Park Commercials at Alfreton on 01773 521211

IIRC the contact is Rob Knowles.

They also have a very good service man who works freelance for them when required.

 

Jim Evans, owner of Gazelle, speaks highly of Richard Mulligan.

He lives on a boat but I don't have his mobile to hand.

Does anyone have his number?

 

You could also try Steve Gray at Stourbridge on 01384 827745

He is editor of the Gardner owners club mag and his wife is treasurer so their knowledge or committment can't be questioned.

 

EDIT to add:

Charles Mills at Poynton on the Macc. 07712 052635

 

 

Richard Milligan - cracking engineer and a nice bloke as well!

07973 826260

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edited to add - How do you know when you need the above sort of works carrying out??...overheating, oil pressure or other.....

 

 

Many thanks for all the suggestions, much appreciated.

 

 

The engine has always had a problem with water getting into the front cylinder when left standing. Whilst the boat was left standing (pre my time) the water sat in one cylinder for a while and has marked the bore. Hence the rebore/hone requirement. The seller I bought it from took the cylinder head off and replaced the gasket and water gallery seals/sleeves. This did not cure the problem so I took the head off to take a look last year, there were enough faults with the headkasket fitted to make me think it might still be the problem (a big lump of muck under one egde and a sleeve was crushed) so I did a better job and reassembled, the engine worked fine enough for a month or two then the water started to get in again. So this time i've decided to take the lot apart and get the head and block skimmed and get a judgement about the cylinder. That, along with crack testing, I hope will sort it all out. It runs so well it's a shame to take it all apart, but the chance of hydraulic lock at some point is enough for me to take some action now I'm on winter moorings.

 

I'm down on the k&a so braunston would be handy but I've no issues travelling anywhere for the right expertise

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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Richard Milligan - cracking engineer and a nice bloke as well!

07973 826260

 

That's him and thanks for the phone number.

He came to a breakdown at a boat moored behind me a couple of years ago.

He worked his butt off and charged reasonably so I asked for his card which I left behind on my last boat.

Recently his name popped up again when I was talking to Jim Evans who has also used him and swears by his work.

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You are very wise although cheap and good might not be the same thing :) or in the words of Red Adair 'If you think it is expensive to hire a professional to do a job, wait until you hire an amateur'

 

 

I totally agree, by saying cheap, I was hoping that either the head or block isn't cracked.

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You are very wise although cheap and good might not be the same thing :) or in the words of Red Adair 'If you think it is expensive to hire a professional to do a job, wait until you hire an amateur'

Very true my 3LW came supposedly rebuilt from a company now based in Braunston and was in the end totally rebuilt in the boat by Richard Milligan, now probably the most expensive 3LW ever.

Believe me you can find many tales like this concerning this company. Avoid

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Very true my 3LW came supposedly rebuilt from a company now based in Braunston and was in the end totally rebuilt in the boat by Richard Milligan, now probably the most expensive 3LW ever.

Believe me you can find many tales like this concerning this company. Avoid

There are several excellent people in Braunston who re-build Marine engines, and who have a lot of very satisfied customers, but by making an anonymous statement about one company, you risk tarring them all with the same brush.

 

May I suggest that that in order to avoid bringing unjustified mistrust of the good engineers, you either name the company you are complaining about, or at least name the people who are not the one you are referring to.

Edited by David Schweizer
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There are several excellent people in Braunston who re-build Marine engines, and who have a lot of very satisfied customers, but by making an anonymous statement about one company, you risk tarring them all with the same brush.

 

May I suggest that that in order to avoid bringing unjustified mistrust of the good engineers, you either name the company you are complaining about, or at least name the people who are not the one you are referring to.

Redshaw's "rebuilt" mine.

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I can assure you David, there are several others, it's just that you've not heard them.

Roger

I agree the victims list is quite long.

Another one to avoid at all costs is Mike Manville in whatever guise he appears in next or has appeared in, multiple bankcrupt lying con man.

At least I put him out of business no doubt he will reappear again to rip off the next batch of victims.

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It would probably be a better idea to fit a new liner if you are intending to take the block off. Pressing them in and out isn't difficult.We get our local machine shop to cut the valve pockets and skim the block and head when they finish bore the liners. I wouldn't mind betting that the block and/or head isn't flat hence the water ingress.

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