Glennifer

[jake_crew]

Mike,

 

The box and manual are in Yorks (DN7) , I'm going up there at the BH w/e so can get the manual then.

 

I'm sure you'd be welcome to visit (its at my brothers farm) if you wish, but clearly its a bit of a hike for you.

 

The 'box we have appears identical to that in the sky-net link.

 

IIRC you drain the oil, loosen the "bell housing" bolts and pull the BH back as far as it will go. With it in a gear (poss rev), you slacken the tension on the springs which hold the clutches in fwd or rev. They toggle fwd and back to engage the correct clutch, and are on a spider which slides up & down a spiral on the input shaft from the engine. This spiral action provides the extra "thrutch" that holds the box 'in gear.

 

Its f'ing heavy, 2 cwt at least, and you need probably 18" space behind to pull the assembly off the spiral.

 

Let me know if I can help more.

 

Colin

Edited August 16, 2011 by jake_crew

[MtB]

Mike,

 

The box and manual are in Yorks (DN7) , I'm going up there at the BH w/e so can get the manual then.

 

I'm sure you'd be welcome to visit (its at my brothers farm) if you wish, but clearly its a bit of a hike for you.

 

The 'box we have appears identical to that in the sky-net link.

 

IIRC you drain the oil, loosen the "bell housing" bolts and pull the BH back as far as it will go. With it in a gear (poss rev), you slacken the tension on the springs which hold the clutches in fwd or rev. They toggle fwd and back to engage the correct clutch, and are on a spider which slides up & down a spiral on the input shaft from the engine. This spiral action provides the extra "thrutch" that holds the box 'in gear.

 

Its f'ing heavy, 2 cwt at least, and you need probably 18" space behind to pull the assembly off the spiral.

 

Let me know if I can help more.

 

Colin

 

 

Hmmm yes indeed, York is a helluva hike from Reading!

 

Helpful description, many thanks.

 

Tim is going to send me a scan of the pages in his manual for the bigger, similar box too. The bad news is we don't have the 18" space you estimate is needed to get it off. We have about 3" space to a low level steel bulkhead which will have to be cut or the engine unbolted and lifted from the engine beds to clear the bulkhead. Either way the bed 'ole will have to be dismantled too. Richard Milligan is booked to do this for us next week hopefully.

 

If it turns out it can't be fixed then the original plan was to graft a PRM260 onto the engine instead, but from your description of how it comes apart I'm concerned as to whether we'll be able to get it off at all with it seized in reverse... On the other hand a partial splitting 'may' reveal the reason for the jamming then we can stick it all back together again without a full rebuild. Ok, fat chance! I'd be very grateful for a copy of the manual as and when you get a chance.

 

And yes, I'd already estimated the weight of it to be "f'ing heavy" too. Thanks for confirming

 

Cheers, Mike

[MtB]

Mike,

 

The box and manual are in Yorks (DN7) , I'm going up there at the BH w/e so can get the manual then.

 

I'm sure you'd be welcome to visit (its at my brothers farm) if you wish, but clearly its a bit of a hike for you.

 

The 'box we have appears identical to that in the sky-net link.

 

IIRC you drain the oil, loosen the "bell housing" bolts and pull the BH back as far as it will go. With it in a gear (poss rev), you slacken the tension on the springs which hold the clutches in fwd or rev. They toggle fwd and back to engage the correct clutch, and are on a spider which slides up & down a spiral on the input shaft from the engine. This spiral action provides the extra "thrutch" that holds the box 'in gear.

 

Its f'ing heavy, 2 cwt at least, and you need probably 18" space behind to pull the assembly off the spiral.

 

Let me know if I can help more.

 

Colin

 

 

Col,

 

I think our problem is there are supposed to be three nuts and bolts holding the gear change lever onto the arm which moves the yoke back and forth, but one of ours is missing! Assuming all three were present originally, the missing one will have fallen directly down into the gearbox workings. Not good. So Richard Millgan and I commenced dismantling yesterday.

 

We moved the engine forward, cut a hole in the rear bulkhead to make some clearance, and split the box at the flange in the middle. Couldn't get the rear section of the box to move more than half an inch off the studs though. The instructions Tim emailed me (for the RC and RCR Gleniffer which seems to be the same but possibly larger) say to remove the output shaft drive flange. It's 2 3/16" nut, but we didn't have a socket and it was too tight to turn with a hammer and drift and heat. It was getting late so we packed it in for the day.

 

I'm concerned about getting this flange off as I don't think there is enough clearance inside the flange around the big nut for a socket to fit, so we make have to track down a 2 3/16" box spanner, or grind down a socket.

 

I notice on reviewing your outline of your dismantling proceedure you don't mention the output shaft flange having to come off. Do you remember if you needed to remove yours? Would be a pain if we spend a lot of time and trouble removing ours then find it was not necessary...

 

Cheers, Mike

[jake_crew]

I must say the procedure I outlined was the best I could remember from 6 months ago. I do remember looking at the O/S flange - and the bolt was hand tight !

 

Can't quite remember whether we took the flange off tho' (sorry).

 

But a nut you KNOW to be missing is deffo bad news - there doesn't seem to be a massive sump it can get lost in (and stay safely out of the way).

 

I'm up to Yorks on Friday so will get the manual then.

 

If you PM me your postal address (or an email to which I can send attachments), I'll get the data to you a s a p.

 

Colin

[MtB]

I must say the procedure I outlined was the best I could remember from 6 months ago. I do remember looking at the O/S flange - and the bolt was hand tight !

 

Can't quite remember whether we took the flange off tho' (sorry).

 

But a nut you KNOW to be missing is deffo bad news - there doesn't seem to be a massive sump it can get lost in (and stay safely out of the way).

 

I'm up to Yorks on Friday so will get the manual then.

 

If you PM me your postal address (or an email to which I can send attachments), I'll get the data to you a s a p.

 

Colin

 

 

 

Indeed. It's not just the nut missing but the bolt as well! Would explain the loss of 'ahead' gear a few weeks ago which I fixed by slightly increasing the available travel on the gear linkage. I now think that's when the bolt fell out. Anyway we'll have the gearbox off one way or another eventually and find out for sure.

 

If it turns out to have suffered terminal damage Richard's then suggestion is to fit a Velvet Drive hydraulic transmission. I'm more inclined to crate it up and send it off to Andy at Seaward Engineering who says he can probably make from scratch a duplicate of pretty much any damaged part inside the Gleniffer box. I'll be impressed if he can make one of those crownwheel gears, should it turn out necessary!

 

Mike

 

 

Edited to add, PM'ed you my addresses a few minutes ago. Many thanks!

Edited August 23, 2011 by Mike the Boilerman

[Timleech]

Col,

 

 

 

I'm concerned about getting this flange off as I don't think there is enough clearance inside the flange around the big nut for a socket to fit, so we make have to track down a 2 3/16" box spanner, or grind down a socket.

 

 

 

Almost certainly 1 1/2" BS Whitworth. A 56mm socket should do it, turned down to fit the bore.

Let me know if you're stuck, I'll see what I can find.

 

Tim

[jake_crew]

Mike,

 

PDF scans of the 'box section of the manual sent to your personal email.

 

I hope it all helps.

 

Note that the two "full cross section" diagrams show upper and lower halves of the mechanism at right angles. I O W, the upper half diagram is the vertical section above the main shaft, the lower half diagram shows one side of a horizontal section. It takes a bit of getting your head round. The springs that toggle between fwd & rev gears I mentioned before are items 62 to 66.

 

Colin

[MtB]

Right, I have finally remembered to take some pics of the Gleniffer when visiting Reginald....

 

Gleniffer DB2

 

Sounds a bit like a Gardner when running, only nicer : D

 

Mike