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Eliis Heatmaster Gas Heating Boiler


David Schweizer

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On 11/04/2018 at 19:44, charles north said:

Thank you Chrisakak9.  I would be really grateful if you could send me a copy to albertcnorth@gmail.com

Thanks again

 Charles

Thanks very much Chris.  Our issue is that thermostat isn't working, so the water overheats and boils out through the expansion tank.  The manual will help us (as rank amateurs!) to at least understand the system and for servicing.

 
Cheers
 Charles
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On 13/04/2018 at 11:47, charles north said:

Thanks very much Chris.  Our issue is that thermostat isn't working, so the water overheats and boils out through the expansion tank.  The manual will help us (as rank amateurs!) to at least understand the system and for servicing.

 
Cheers
 Charles

Boiling can also occur if the pump is not working. The system should  may be fitted with a small 12v pump which operates when the boiler fires up.

Edited by Richard T
To remove confusion over the need for a pump
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1 hour ago, Richard T said:

Boiling can also occur if the pump is not working. The system should be fitted with a small 12v pump which operates when the boiler fires up.

That's not necessarily true. The vast majority of Ellis boiler installations, ours included, use the room thermostat simply to turn off the pump. The water stops circulating and then the boiler thermostat operates to turn off the gas. Result, no boiling.

If it is boiling over it is almost certainly a thermostat fault, though it just May be no more than that the sensor has pulled out of its hole; ours uses a wine bottle cork to hold it in place.

I understand that the thermostat is no longer available as a stand alone item, they only come ready-attached to the control unit. Speak to San Matts at Foxton, he's the expert on Ellis boilers and also he owns most of the remaining spares for them.

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As there seem to be several requests for the Ellis Heatmaster Instalation and Maintenance instructions, I am going to try and attach a copy. If it works perhaps the Moderators could add it ito the pinned files.

Well that failed, I will try again.

 

Edited by David Schweizer
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 Well it worked that time. However, they are displaying in reverse order.  The pages are numbered , so perhaps the mods could re-organize them into the correct order. It should also be possible to download them by right clickng on each page and saving them individualy.

 

page 13.jpg

page 12.jpg

page 11.jpg

page 10.jpg

page 9.jpg

page 8.jpg

page 7.jpg

page 6.jpg

page 5.jpg

page 4.jpg

page 3.jpg

page 2.jpg

page 1.jpg

Cover.jpg

Edited by David Schweizer
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17 hours ago, Richard T said:

Boiling can also occur if the pump is not working. The system should be fitted with a small 12v pump which operates when the boiler fires up.

The Ellis Heatmaster on our boat did not have a pump, it had 1" (28mm) pipes, as recommended by Ellis, and used natural convection to circulate the water.

16 hours ago, Keeping Up said:

That's not necessarily true. The vast majority of Ellis boiler installations, ours included, use the room thermostat simply to turn off the pump. The water stops circulating and then the boiler thermostat operates to turn off the gas. Result, no boiling.

If it is boiling over it is almost certainly a thermostat fault, though it just May be no more than that the sensor has pulled out of its hole; ours uses a wine bottle cork to hold it in place.

I understand that the thermostat is no longer available as a stand alone item, they only come ready-attached to the control unit. Speak to San Matts at Foxton, he's the expert on Ellis boilers and also he owns most of the remaining spares for them.

Yes, that is a real possibility, the sensor was held into its orifice by a small flat metal cable tie on our boat. One of the problems with the Heatmaster thermostat is that, unlike most domestic boilers where it is screwed in, the tube is soldered into control unit, and cannot be replaced if damaged or cut, making a new control unit the only solution.

Edited by David Schweizer
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17 hours ago, Richard T said:

Boiling can also occur if the pump is not working. The system should be fitted with a small 12v pump which operates when the boiler fires up.

Not if its a gravity system that is correctly designed and properly installed - it's not an Alde.

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9 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

Not if its a gravity system that is correctly designed and properly installed - it's not an Alde.

Interestingly the system installed on our boat was not gravity fed, but part of the engine cooling system, with flow being controlled by the engine pump when the engine was running. However, the water still circulated by convection when the engine was not running. It was fitted with a one way pressure valve to prevent backflow to the engine when using the boiler to heat the water.

Edited by David Schweizer
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31 minutes ago, David Schweizer said:

... the water still circulated by convection when the engine was not running. It was fitted with a one way pressure valve to prevent backflow to the engine when using the boiler to heat the water.

I’m surprised that a convection system would have sufficient force to overcome the pressure of a non return valve. I’m not doubting you, just surprised. Can you recall what valve it was because that might be of use to some members. 

Edited by WotEver
Errant worm.
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1 hour ago, Richard T said:

Our boat uses small bore pipes and an electric pump to circulate the hot water to the radiators. The boiler is on the opposite side of the boat to most of the radiators so a convection system would not work.

PDF of manual attached.

A1 Heatmaster.pdf

Richard, that is exactly what I would expect in your case but it's not what you said. You said "The system should be fitted with a small 12v pump " and that is misleading, especially to people who are less conversant in such things.

If you had said something along the lines of "the system might have a 12V circulation pump, if so check its working" then  that would have been good advice and not potentially confusing.

The down side of forums like this is that people with the best intentions in the world post advice that applies to their boat and perhaps not many others making it difficult for new members to work out what to take on board.

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6 hours ago, WotEver said:

I’m surprised that a convection system would have sufficient force to overcome the pressure of a non return valve. I’m not doubting you, just surprised. Can you recall what valve it was because that might be of use to some members. 

The boat did have a significant rise from stern to stem, which may have helped, and after a sunner of not being used, sometimes needed a bit of assistance frpm the engine pump to get the water moving, and sometimes bleeding, but usually only after the first autumn boiler firing.

The valve was a standard 15mm double check valve, available from Screwfix or any plumbers merchant. it was fitted into the flow pipe from the water pump to the radiators with the arrow facig towards the radiators.

image.png.ff70d31b8a7b7969b2ffac17d6d26c7e.png

 

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1 minute ago, David Schweizer said:

The boat did have a significant rise from stern to stem, which may have helped, and after a sunner of not being used, sometimes needed a bit of assistance frpm the engine pump to get the water moving, and sometimes bleeding, but usually only after the first autumn boiler firing.

The valve was a standard 15mm double check valve, available from Screwfix or any plumbers merchant. it was fitted into the flow pipe from the water pump to the radiators with the arrow facig towards the radiators.

image.png.ff70d31b8a7b7969b2ffac17d6d26c7e.png

 

Great, thanks :)

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On 13/04/2018 at 14:15, Richard T said:

Boiling can also occur if the pump is not working. The system should be fitted with a small 12v pump which operates when the boiler fires up.

Following Tonys comment I should have said may be fitted with a small 12v pump In my original post.

Apologies for any confusion caused.

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