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Morso Squirrel glass replacement


Machpoint005

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I have a new glass pane, the fabric tape to go around it, and a little bag of screws and brackets.

Before I start attacking the old window glass, has anyone any helpful advice? I'd rather not crack the new glass straight away. I'm doing the job at home before venturing back to the boat.

 

By the way, the stove door was getting stiffer and more difficult to latch closed, but it doesn't seem to be warped or distorted. Thoughts on that one would be appreciated too!

 

Ta

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spray the four clips that hold the glass in with wd40 or some other(I used the mutts nutts ) ,leave for an hour before attempting to move them.I gently twist two or more clips with pliers by enough to enable removal of old glass.Have a wire brush to clean the door.Most important make sure you warm the new glass slowly when you relight the fire.Have fun.

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To make it easier I lifted the door off and took it home and did it on my workbench on an old towel. Like Peasant I sprayed the existing screws with WD 40 but a few days beforehand.

 

At the same time I renewed the rope around the door. Check the your old rope has not come apart and doubled in thickness, this would make the door hard to close.

 

Steve

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To make it easier I lifted the door off and took it home and did it on my workbench on an old towel. Like Peasant I sprayed the existing screws with WD 40 but a few days beforehand.

 

At the same time I renewed the rope around the door. Check the your old rope has not come apart and doubled in thickness, this would make the door hard to close.

 

Steve

 

In my experience, the only problem is removing the old screws - I have sometimes found it necessary to drill them out and re-tap the holes - not something easily done if you have a fire burning in the grate. That is why we keep a spare pre-assembled door onboard . . .

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At the same time I renewed the rope around the door. Check the your old rope has not come apart and doubled in thickness, this would make the door hard to close.

 

Steve

 

Agreed. I did this a while back when we had the same problem with the door closure being difficult. Just give it the wire brush treatment where the rope sits before sealing in the new rope.

Make a note of the glass size so you can get a couple of spares cut. It'll cost less then buying from a swindlers.

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I have a new glass pane, the fabric tape to go around it, and a little bag of screws and brackets.

Before I start attacking the old window glass, has anyone any helpful advice? I'd rather not crack the new glass straight away. I'm doing the job at home before venturing back to the boat.

 

By the way, the stove door was getting stiffer and more difficult to latch closed, but it doesn't seem to be warped or distorted. Thoughts on that one would be appreciated too!

 

Ta

 

We had same problem. In the end we decided to let the experts help and took it to Uxbridge Boat Centre who did a fantastic job for a lot less than other quotes. I have no connection with them but am a satisfied customer. Door came back like brand new with everything done.

 

D

Edited by debbifiggy
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I recently replaced the glass and all the rope seal in my squirrel, after cracking the old glass with an over-large log.

 

Whilst waiting for the new glass to be delivered, I fitted a 4mm steel plate temporarily, which fitted nicely- perhaps a usable emergency alternative for people to consider.

 

In terms of the clips, I managed to sheer off two of them, despite having used the WD40 treatment- they were really gummed in! I had to drill and retap.

 

The seals were quite easy. Once you've removed the door- which just lifts off of the hinges- and removed the glass, you can wire brush away to your heart's content to clean up the surfaces. I changed all the rope seals while I was at it, and that was easy enough, it just took a while- I had to use a small hammer and a flathead screwdriver as an effective small chisel to remove all of the old seal, but it came off easily enough.

 

Filthy job, though!

 

I reckon the really big thing is to ensure that the surfaces you're going to glue the new rope onto are clean and clear. Pre-cut the rope to length, put on the glue, then the rope, then the glass and clips.

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I had to replace my old glass a couple of weeks ago . The screws were in so tight they had to be drilled out and the holes re-tapped by a friend. He then dipped the new screws in copper grease before inserting them. He says this will make it easier to remove them when I need to do so in the future.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...

Does anyone know what thickness of rope is required to be replaced with the glass?

 

 

There's no rope behind the glass, its a thin, flat woven glass tape, usually supplied with a self-adhesive backing. The tape is available from chandlers or stove centres. If you don't have the tape but do have the glass and its urgent, high temp silicone seems to work OK.

 

The seal round the outer edge of the door is 6 or 7mm glass rope. Stick this in with Calfire stove rope glue or similar

 

N

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As BENgo has said, you can get a flat tape for the glass - - - but I've used a standard 6mm rope with great success (and used Calfire rope cement) - and think it looks very good

 

Ah ok, brilliant. Rope is being used at the minute (took it apart this morning) but its falling apart so I think its time to replace both :) thanks!

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I would like to add a little something to this topic. Before you have the need to replace the glass or even if at that stage when you have removed said fixing screws take one to a proper nut and bolt shop and have them sell you replacements of the same size but stainless steel with allan key fitting. They will then come out next time without problem.

 

Tim

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I would like to add a little something to this topic. Before you have the need to replace the glass or even if at that stage when you have removed said fixing screws take one to a proper nut and bolt shop and have them sell you replacements of the same size but stainless steel with allan key fitting. They will then come out next time without problem.

 

Tim

 

^^^^

 

M4 x 10 mm long hex capscrews in A2 or A4 stainless are the thing to ask for. You may need 15mm long if you use stove rope behind the glass,instead of tape. For best results coat the threaded bit with copper grease before fitting.

 

N

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