Attaching a New Tiller Handle

[timetraveller]

We have just bought a new brass tiller extension together with a new wooden tiller handle. The wooden handle has a slit cut into the base where it would be driven into the brass extension tube and a small wedge has also been supplied.

 

So the question is what's the correct method for fitting the handle? - if the wedge is offered even slightly into the slit in the wooden handle it's impossible to insert the handle into the brass tube? Do we just ignore the wedge and the slit and just 'whack' the handle into the brass extension tube ? or does the handle have to be sanded down first so that it fits easily into the tube - and then the wedge driven in from the opposite end of the open brass tube with something like a large dowel?

 

What's the procedure.....help!

[koukouvagia]

We have just bought a new brass tiller extension together with a new wooden tiller handle. The wooden handle has a slit cut into the base where it would be driven into the brass extension tube and a small wedge has also been supplied.

 

So the question is what's the correct method for fitting the handle? - if the wedge is offered even slightly into the slit in the wooden handle it's impossible to insert the handle into the brass tube? Do we just ignore the wedge and the slit and just 'whack' the handle into the brass extension tube ? or does the handle have to be sanded down first so that it fits easily into the tube - and then the wedge driven in from the opposite end of the open brass tube with something like a large dowel?

 

What's the procedure.....help!

 

I just dunk mine in water for a second or two before setting off. The wood swells. Bingo

[Canalwatcher]

I just dunk mine in water for a second or two before setting off. The wood swells. Bingo

I had to first very slightly sand the end to be inserted into the tube. Then I only slightly put the wedge in then put the handle into the tube and then put the end of handle on a carpeted floor and with the tube vertical used a length of 1" square timber to drive the wedge in.

 

After that made a small countersunk hole in tube to fix a screw through tube and into handle

 

Mick

Edited March 10, 2010 by zodiak

[Albion]

We have just bought a new brass tiller extension together with a new wooden tiller handle. The wooden handle has a slit cut into the base where it would be driven into the brass extension tube and a small wedge has also been supplied.

 

So the question is what's the correct method for fitting the handle? - if the wedge is offered even slightly into the slit in the wooden handle it's impossible to insert the handle into the brass tube? Do we just ignore the wedge and the slit and just 'whack' the handle into the brass extension tube ? or does the handle have to be sanded down first so that it fits easily into the tube - and then the wedge driven in from the opposite end of the open brass tube with something like a large dowel?

 

What's the procedure.....help!

 

The method that I have seen used on Albion when the handle was turned by the fitter-outer was to get the shank of the handle a very tight fit into the tube, machine a slight undercut right up at the shoulder of the handle and then pull the handle into the tube with a sash cramp. The slit for the wedge should be opened out slightly at the mouth only so that the wedge can stick into the slot while the pulling operation is going on and than is driven fully into place by thumping the whole tiller bar assembly down onto a largish diameter rod inside the brass tube. The purpose of the undercut up at the shoulder of the handle is that, as the tight handle is pulled into the tube it naturally tends to shave off the outer surface of the wooden shank. If you've got the undercut these shavings fall away harmlessly just as the handle is nearly home. If you haven't got the undercut you'll end up with some unsightly shavings jammed between the end of the tube and the shoulder on the wooden handle.

Roger

[mayalld]

The method that I have seen used on Albion when the handle was turned by the fitter-outer was to get the shank of the handle a very tight fit into the tube, machine a slight undercut right up at the shoulder of the handle and then pull the handle into the tube with a sash cramp. The slit for the wedge should be opened out slightly at the mouth only so that the wedge can stick into the slot while the pulling operation is going on and than is driven fully into place by thumping the whole tiller bar assembly down onto a largish diameter rod inside the brass tube. The purpose of the undercut up at the shoulder of the handle is that, as the tight handle is pulled into the tube it naturally tends to shave off the outer surface of the wooden shank. If you've got the undercut these shavings fall away harmlessly just as the handle is nearly home. If you haven't got the undercut you'll end up with some unsightly shavings jammed between the end of the tube and the shoulder on the wooden handle.

Roger

 

It is probably worth adding that before you introduce the handle to the tube, you should ensure that;

• The tube is warm, so as to maximise its diameter,
  
• The wood is bone dry, so as to minimise any swelling.
  

That way, you are not going to lose any shavings that you want to retain.

 

Once the handle in in place, and the wedge driven in, stand it tube uppermost, and pour oil (should be linseed oil, but vegetable oil will do) down the tube. Leave it in position for as long as possible (days if possible) to allow the oil to penetrate, and permanently swell the wood.

[SLC]

I have a similar problem and not being confident in DIY find the simplest things confusing! It is called overthinking!

The wooden handle and brass tube have been separated successfully as the handle was inching it's way out in any case through use. There is a 1mm slot in the handle to accept a wedge which was soft wood, 25mm wide. The inside diameter of tube is 35mm.

Question  is how to reassemble! Answers above i.e. a little screw, linseed oil etc., but what type of wedge? Where do I get one from? Wood or metal? If wood, what type? OP had a wedge. I don't.

I don't want the handle coming out again as the helmsperson gets irritated!

[bizzard]

58 minutes ago, SLC said:

I have a similar problem and not being confident in DIY find the simplest things confusing! It is called overthinking!

The wooden handle and brass tube have been separated successfully as the handle was inching it's way out in any case through use. There is a 1mm slot in the handle to accept a wedge which was soft wood, 25mm wide. The inside diameter of tube is 35mm.

Question  is how to reassemble! Answers above i.e. a little screw, linseed oil etc., but what type of wedge? Where do I get one from? Wood or metal? If wood, what type? OP had a wedge. I don't.

I don't want the handle coming out again as the helmsperson gets irritated!

Easy to make a wedge. Carve-whittle it out of soft wood with a sharp knife. Put wood glue on the wedge and start it in the slot, poke it into the tube. Turn tube vertical with the wooden handle standing on the ground and with a wooden pole, broom handle even a square long stick poke it in the top of the tube and whack it with a hammer to knock the wedge firmly in to expand the slot.

[SLC]

My concern regarding softwood is that it will compress or break up / snap as I hit it with my broom pole! Overthinking again!

[bizzard]

2 minutes ago, SLC said:

My concern regarding softwood is that it will compress or break up / snap as I hit it with my broom pole! Overthinking again!

Just tap, tap, tap and you'll feel it going in.

[MtB]

3 minutes ago, SLC said:

My concern regarding softwood is that it will compress or break up / snap as I hit it with my broom pole! Overthinking again!

 

No I think you're right to be concerned. I'd be inclined to make a wedge from a decent bit of hardwood such as teak or mahogany.

 

 

A new handle would normally be supplied with a suitable wedge anyway.

 

[Rincewind]

You could use a metal wedge. They can be bought from ironmongers, usually used for fixing hammer shafts.

[SLC]

I have tried to whittle wood before and have the scar to prove it. It is an identifiable mark on my body which was on my passport!

I have no wedge now as it was destroyed when I removed the handle, not that it was very good. I have seen tiller handles on Ebay with a metal wedge bit I think first I will try and fine some hardwood.🤞

[Ray T]

5 hours ago, bizzard said:

Easy to make a wedge. Carve-whittle it out of soft wood with a sharp knife. Put wood glue on the wedge and start it in the slot, poke it into the tube. Turn tube vertical with the wooden handle standing on the ground and with a wooden pole, broom handle even a square long stick poke it in the top of the tube and whack it with a hammer to knock the wedge firmly in to expand the slot.

This is the method I've used, works a treat.

The wooden handle was made for me by a retired working boater.

Also, I made a bit of poser bling from a short length of tiller tube for when moored up. 😁

Obviously, I take it off at night and when the boat is unattended.

 

Edited September 29 by Ray T

[blackrose]

6 hours ago, SLC said:

I have a similar problem and not being confident in DIY find the simplest things confusing! It is called overthinking!

The wooden handle and brass tube have been separated successfully as the handle was inching it's way out in any case through use. There is a 1mm slot in the handle to accept a wedge which was soft wood, 25mm wide. The inside diameter of tube is 35mm.

Question  is how to reassemble! Answers above i.e. a little screw, linseed oil etc., but what type of wedge? Where do I get one from? Wood or metal? If wood, what type? OP had a wedge. I don't.

I don't want the handle coming out again as the helmsperson gets irritated!

 

Assuming it's a reasonable fit, if it was me I'd just put some Stixall around the wooden part that goes into the brass tube and shove it in. Wipe off the excess and 24 hours later you won't be able to separate them. 

[SLC]

Thanks to everyone! Handle fitted, screw inserted, jobs a good one!

Reality. Screw head broke off just below brass tube! Pilot hole too small! Knocking wedge in by inserting broom handle up tube and hammering it pushed the handle out 1cms! Yes, the tube was vertical with handle on the floor so goodness knows how that happened. Anyhow, pushed back, screwed a second time. I said I was useless but job done in about 1 hour!

[jacko264]

Not on bonus then 👍

[beerbeerbeerbeerbeer]

On 29/09/2024 at 10:57, bizzard said:

Easy to make a wedge. Carve-whittle it out of soft wood with a sharp knife. Put wood glue on the wedge and start it in the slot, poke it into the tube. Turn tube vertical with the wooden handle standing on the ground and with a wooden pole, broom handle even a square long stick poke it in the top of the tube and whack it with a hammer to knock the wedge firmly in to expand the slot.

…some things are so obvious when pointed out!

I do consider meself quite a practical person but failed to think of tapping the wedge with a pole/wooden batten or whatever down the tube,

tomorrows job 😃,

Ive had trouble with mine coming loose and I’m kind of paranoid it’ll come out as I lean with the tiller hard over and I’ll go splosh and the unmanned boat’ll go over me.