What finish on real wood floor?

[Matthew Dowson]

I am laying ash planks on LION and want some advice on durable finishes, and types of materials people have tried and tested. I was thinking oiling the wood and then using some flexible lacquer. I'd appreciate any helpful comments. Thanks.

[soldthehouse]

Hello Matthew I notice you are in or near Bradford. Shipley paints are suppliers of furniture laquers they will advise you, or Morrells who I used to deal with I think are from somewhere around there. I woulsd personally use a low sheen two pack AC laquer. PM me if you want to talk some more Regards Stuart

Edited February 21, 2010 by soldthehouse

[Ally]

I'd use Osmo wax oil, easy to apply, quick and easy to maintain!

[Richard T]

Use anything that effectively seals the grain. Ash (like wise oak) has an open grain which quickly gets dirt ingrained into it and then requires resanding and sealing. One way is to have a no outdoor shoes rule inside the boat.

[Bat & Frog]

Use anything that effectively seals the grain. Ash (like wise oak) has an open grain which quickly gets dirt ingrained into it and then requires resanding and sealing. One way is to have a no outdoor shoes rule inside the boat.

Is it possible to seal over a pre-oiled finish ? Thanks

[soldthehouse]

Is it possible to seal over a pre-oiled finish ? Thanks

Its a how long is a piece of string thing. An oily finish will not provde adhesion as many instructions will tell you to ensure all surfaces are clean and oil and dust free etc, however in practice with exposure to the enviroment oils dry out and unless really oily a quick degreasewith something like "sugar soap" or a quick run over with some solvent will make the surface acceptable. its all a matter of trial and error...

[Matthew Dowson]

Hello Matthew I notice you are in or near Bradford. Shipley paints are suppliers of furniture laquers they will advise you, or Morrells who I used to deal with I think are from somewhere around there. I woulsd personally use a low sheen two pack AC laquer. PM me if you want to talk some more Regards Stuart

Yes, Shipley paints are just down the road I will call in and talk lacquers with them, thanks.

[PaddingtonBear]

Use about 6 coats of Liberon Floor Oil, don't bother with any painted or sprayed finish no matter what the claims are.

[Osprey Sprinkler]

Agreeing with most of the replies above, you basically have to choose between a durable finish and a maintainable one.

 

A durable finish such as a lacquer or even a two-pack epoxy product will last longer than oil or wax. You might get a few years use in light traffic areas, especially if you ban shoes or wear braces so tight you hover, but you'd be lucky to get much more than a year's wear around the back door. When it does start to look scruffy, which it surely will, you then have a major job stripping and re-applying a durable finish.

 

Oil (or wax) will give you a natural looking finish that you will have to maintain by topping it up periodically, particularly in heavily used areas. But this topping up is just a wipe over with more oil using a rag, as long as you remember to do it in time. This gets my vote every time.

 

 

Regarding lacquer over oil - "it was decided" a while back that I should paint a door frame that was previously waxed wood. I have tried everything from sugar soap to meths and wire wool, plus a lot of sanding, and the paint still peels off if you so much as break wind in its general direction. Never again!

[PeteS]

I have used Liberon on my oak floor in the hall at home, excellent stuff.

 

We have a loose rule of shoe removal at the front door but are not manic about it and it's onlt required one recoat in a bout 6 years.

 

The best thing about it is that it dries much quicker than varnish and so a job involving many coats can be done quickly.

 

It must be applied thinly though

[John Orentas]

I am laying ash planks on LION and want some advice on durable finishes, and types of materials people have tried and tested. I was thinking oiling the wood and then using some flexible lacquer. I'd appreciate any helpful comments. Thanks.

 

 

I don't believe you could do better than use a traditional wax finish, very simple to accomplish too, for an oak floor I would do the following.

 

1. Sand down to a even constant texture.

2. A light stain, this is optional but it is needed to give some contrast for the grain.

3. Seal using a mat or eggshell varnish**, probably 2 coats sanded down between coats and after the final one.

4. Wax polish using a brand of your choice but you don't need anything more than the traditional stuff.. Repeat at least twice a year.

 

** Thin the varnish down with white spirit to encourage it to soak into the timber.

With this method you should get a deep wax finish, but not shiny or glossy, a patina will build up.

Edited February 23, 2010 by John Orentas