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Isuzu engine stop solenoid


stuart

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The one on your link appears to be a 3 wire "energise to run" type. I think the OP and others are looking for the somewhat elusive 2 wire "energise to stop" version.
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Seriously spoke to a isuzu dealer today who said a new solenoid was £404 !! Anyone able to shed any light on this matter, this seems outrageous for a stop switch... any advice much apreciated. Thanks

Are you sure there hasn't been any misunderstanding between you and the Isuzu dealer, he may have given you the price for a complete engine there.

 

Peter.

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Anyone know what the third wire does ? Am thinking to give it a go and see if it works. Don't want to waste £60 but definately cannot afford the isuzu dealer prices!!

First you will need a copy of the Isuzu maintenance/overhaul manual to show the the correct mechanical setting for the energise to run solenoid.

Second you will need to modify the wiring to suit the 3 wire solenoid.

The 3 wires are:

Battery negative.

"Pull in" the heavy current coil needed to initially move the operating rod/plunger. Should be connected to a timer activated by the starter circuit; but is commonly attached to the starter motor side of the starter solenoid (which can cause it to overheat/burn out in the event of excessive cranking).

"Hold in" the low current coil needed to hold the operating rod/plunger in the run position. Connected to an ignition switched supply.

 

The changeover from "pull in' to "hold in" is by an internal switch, made when the operating rod/plunger reaches the end of its travel. It is very important that the mechanical setting allows the operating rod/plunger to reach the end of its travel, otherwise the engine will start, but stop as soon as the key is released.

 

You should be able to change the connections on the key switch/panel to reuse the existing solenoid wiring as the battery neg and "hold in" circuit; a new wire from the starter will be needed for the "pull in" connection.

 

The stop button would be redundant; the engine would stop when the key is turned to the off position.

 

As mentioned earlier the engine would stop in the event of a flat battery.

 

Hope this helps

Steve (Eeyore)

 

PS I suppose you've checked for voltage at the existing solenoid connector when the button is pressed, sometimes the feed from the key switch to the stop button fails due to dirty contacts in the key switch.

Edited by Eeyore
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First you will need a copy of the Isuzu maintenance/overhaul manual to show the the correct mechanical setting for the energise to run solenoid.

Second you will need to modify the wiring to suit the 3 wire solenoid.

The 3 wires are:

Battery negative.

"Pull in" the heavy current coil needed to initially move the operating rod/plunger. Should be connected to a timer activated by the starter circuit; but is commonly attached to the starter motor side of the starter solenoid (which can cause it to overheat/burn out in the event of excessive cranking).

"Hold in" the low current coil needed to hold the operating rod/plunger in the run position. Connected to an ignition switched supply.

 

The changeover from "pull in' to "hold in" is by an internal switch, made when the operating rod/plunger reaches the end of its travel. It is very important that the mechanical setting allows the operating rod/plunger to reach the end of its travel, otherwise the engine will start, but stop as soon as the key is released.

 

You should be able to change the connections on the key switch/panel to reuse the existing solenoid wiring as the battery neg and "hold in" circuit; a new wire from the starter will be needed for the "pull in" connection.

 

The stop button would be redundant; the engine would stop when the key is turned to the off position.

 

As mentioned earlier the engine would stop in the event of a flat battery.

 

Hope this helps

Steve (Eeyore)

 

PS I suppose you've checked for voltage at the existing solenoid connector when the button is pressed, sometimes the feed from the key switch to the stop button fails due to dirty contacts in the key switch.

Sounds like when I use to work on the old "Flipper" pinball machines.

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Hi Steve (Eeyore) thanks very much for your detailed reply ! very very helpful. :)

I've just remembered that the stop button has a second set of terminals. The wires are currently on the normally open (NO) set of contacts. The quick and easy (no tools or cutting) way to convert the wiring is to move the wires to the normally closed (NC) set of contacts. The wire to the solenoid will now be live with the key switch in the on position; and you retain the functionality of the stop button which breaks the supply when pressed. The engine would of course still stop by turning the key switch to off.

I"ll scan you a copy of the wiring diagram, with the timer, when I'm back from the boat on Fri. You could have a look at the Barrus Shire download page where you will find handbooks with "energise to run" 3 wire wiring diagrams. The later Barrus engines have the third wire connected to the starter solenoid.

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Hi Steve, That would be great ! does that mean I could simple plug into my existing connection ? I have taken some photos of mine, I tried to remove it today but it seems very stuck it even seems to have been siliconed in place.

 

Look forward to hearing your comments on how I could go about replacing this one, the simpler solution the better tongue.png

 

 

post-26194-0-33404000-1480178187_thumb.jpg

post-26194-0-68891000-1480178212_thumb.jpg

post-26194-0-23014800-1480178257_thumb.jpg

post-26194-0-58682000-1480178334_thumb.jpg

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Hi Steve, That would be great ! does that mean I could simple plug into my existing connection ? I have taken some photos of mine, I tried to remove it today but it seems very stuck it even seems to have been siliconed in place.

 

Look forward to hearing your comments on how I could go about replacing this one, the simpler solution the better tongue.png

 

 

Sorry for the delay, printer/scanner failed.

Just collected a new one.

Thanks for the pictures; I'll wonder down to the local hire base for a better look at some Isuzu engines, just to be sure of what I'm talking about?. It's just down the road.

Edited by Eeyore
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Hi Steve, no rush! I really appreciate your help. Haha are you serious to go and have a look, massive thanks if so.

 

I just noticed the following one on ebay does state its for a 4LE1 engine, which mine has stamped on the side of the engine itself, so perhaps its a straight forward swap?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Shutoff-Solenoid-Replaces-8973295680-for-Isuzu-3LD1-3LD2-4LE1-3LB1-4LB1-/371774994363?hash=item568f8437bb:g:4FkAAOSwS7hXAlQj

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Hi Steve, no rush! I really appreciate your help. Haha are you serious to go and have a look, massive thanks if so.

 

I just noticed the following one on ebay does state its for a 4LE1 engine, which mine has stamped on the side of the engine itself, so perhaps its a straight forward swap?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Shutoff-Solenoid-Replaces-8973295680-for-Isuzu-3LD1-3LD2-4LE1-3LB1-4LB1-/371774994363?hash=item568f8437bb:g:4FkAAOSwS7hXAlQj

Don't order anything just yet; I'll be having a conversation with someone on Monday re the original part.

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The current part number for the two wire version is: Hitachi MV1-77 897209-1141

They are available from Engines Plus through their dealer network, which supports the Isuzu marine product.

I was given a price of about £208 by the local dealership.

So they are available, with a price that seems about right for something "almost unique".

 

It seems that these solenoids just screw in without need for setting (unlike the similar looking Mitsubishi item). Sealing compound/mastic seems to be the order of the day to stop the oil leaking past the threads.

 

I've had another look at the 3 wire solenoid install, and have arrived at a "novel" solution.

The pull in coil is recommended to be energised for no longer than 3 seconds by most manufacturers; which is why they recommend timer modules.

However if you leave the existing wiring in place the feed to the white pull in lead is controlled by the "stop" button, just press for a second or two to set the solenoid in the run position. You just need to run an additional wire from the same terminal on the key switch to the red hold in wire on the solenoid (you will need one female lucar/spade connector which will fit in the unused position in the existing white nylon connector block). Change the label on the stop button if you like, or leave it as a "security" feature.

post-6331-0-42965300-1480348931_thumb.jpeg

Edited by Eeyore
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  • 1 month later...

Hi Steve,

 

Thanks very much for your reply ! sorry for taking so long to get back to you... It was a bit of a hectic christmas period for me :/ but things are better now.

 

I really appreciate you taking the time to look into the different options for me, could you clarify is it just a large spanner I need to undo the current solenoid and if replaced with the same model from Engine plus it wouldn't need any sealant??

 

Think I will give Engine plus a call.

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Hi Steve,

 

Thanks very much for your reply ! sorry for taking so long to get back to you... It was a bit of a hectic christmas period for me :/ but things are better now.

 

I really appreciate you taking the time to look into the different options for me, could you clarify is it just a large spanner I need to undo the current solenoid and if replaced with the same model from Engine plus it wouldn't need any sealant??

 

Think I will give Engine plus a call.

A suitable size open ended spanner would seem to be best. The hexagon on the solenoid is quite shallow, and ring spanners have a "lead" on them which means they will not grip the full width of the hexagon. Remove any excess sealant from around the old solenoid to ensure the open ended spanner gets a grip across the full width of the hexagon.

Engine Plus will advise on suitable sealant for the new solenoid.

Steve (Eeyore)

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Did you manage to source an Isuzu stop solonoid ? mine has gone :(

Try these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Shutoff-Solenoid-Replaces-8973295680-for-Isuzu-3LD1-3LD2-4LE1-3LB1-4LB1-/391649745566

 

Contact them if different model required

 

Edited to add

Sorry missed a couple of posts so didn't know you were sorted out still may be a useful link for others

Edited by reg
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A suitable size open ended spanner would seem to be best. The hexagon on the solenoid is quite shallow, and ring spanners have a "lead" on them which means they will not grip the full width of the hexagon. Remove any excess sealant from around the old solenoid to ensure the open ended spanner gets a grip across the full width of the hexagon.

Engine Plus will advise on suitable sealant for the new solenoid.

Steve (Eeyore)

 

I had to remove the solenoid on a Perkins generator, which is a similar screw in item, although it only has one power connection. It was impossible to get any sort of tool to grip the hexagon and gripping the body with pipe grips only resulted in the solenoid body rotating. I ended up levering the solenoid body off, which allowed the grips to get at the hexagon.

 

The solenoid was rebuilt and the body casing secured by drilling three depressions on the end piece, and centre punching the solenoid body to keep it in place. That solenoid is now only hand tight! (OiI tight, though!)

 

IMG 3028smal

 

The solenoid is on the left of the picture.

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  • 4 years later...

I have just got around to checking out a 4LE1 (new) engine a bought as a spare. Unfortunately it is fitted with the 3 wire stop solenoid that needs to be kept energised to keep the engine running. I would much prefer to change it for the simple 2 wire type that only operates to stop the engine so that it is fail safe. These don't seem to be available so easily.

Anyone have a source for these a at reasonable price?

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