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I've got the shakes


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Increase the area of the rudder forward and then run it just in case its worse. Don't weld something that might have to be dismantled.

I considered bolting a wide piece of flat iron on then as you quite rightly say,if a failure it can be dismantled maybe even from the tender. If however it is a success, I can weld it pigeon sh1t style next time I drydock. Although my photo doesn't show, I have never thought that the main rudder area looked very big.

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Other than it appears to have a wooden notice fixed to it with a bungee strap that probably will not stay attached too long. :lol:

 

On the other hand, (even allowing for the angle of the shot) I'd say the prop-shaft is too long, resulting in the weight of the prop being on more unsupported shaft than is sensible.

 

I think previous threads concluded that the shaft showing between stern tube bearing and prop should not be more than about 1.5 times shaft diameter. I may have got that wrong, but I think that was consensus).

I agree if that is the normal position of the shaft and prop it is extending too far beyond the bearing. It may be thought that the boat is being worked on requiring the shaft to be pushed back for gearbox fitting or some other reason.

 

I would say the rudder looks good.

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  • 12 years later...
On 16/09/2009 at 16:49, robkg said:

Have I missed a joke or are you genuinely suggesting the anode should be painted?

 

If you are then you are incorrect, once painted it will not work.

Apologies for resurrecting such an elderly thread but - just been discussing this with the boatyard currently blacking the boat for us. They say, it makes no difference. Can't find much on google but we've always made sure not to get bitumen on the anodes as far as is possible. Any thoughts?

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1 minute ago, wandering snail said:

Apologies for resurrecting such an elderly thread but - just been discussing this with the boatyard currently blacking the boat for us. They say, it makes no difference. Can't find much on google but we've always made sure not to get bitumen on the anodes as far as is possible. Any thoughts?

 

For as long as I have known anything about boats I have always understood the anodes should be left unpainted. Painting them will protect them and they are supposed to be sacrificial.

 

Somebody will be along with the science shortly.

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2 minutes ago, wandering snail said:

Apologies for resurrecting such an elderly thread but - just been discussing this with the boatyard currently blacking the boat for us. They say, it makes no difference. Can't find much on google but we've always made sure not to get bitumen on the anodes as far as is possible. Any thoughts?

Mmmm, its a thought.

Perhaps they will then dissolve more from the unpainted back until the mag falls off the steel strap?

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I can only comment on the zinc ones attached to my lumpy water prop hub, which dissolve almost an entire anode in a season (small anodes and salty water for you). If I don't mask them off when antifouling then the very small part of the anode which has antifouling on it is usually still standing proud when the boat comes out at the end of the year ie it hasn't dissolved. Since wasting away the anode rather than the surrounding material is the whole point of it, I would say painting them is a really bad idea!

  • Greenie 2
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1 hour ago, Ray T said:

The rudder / elum shakes could always be put to music. :D

 

 

 

 

I never understood why they always wore suits when they were called The Swinging Blue Jeans". 

 

It seemed obvious to me as a brat they should always be in jeans. 

 

 

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