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Battery Charging Routine Basics


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So here at last is my altenator. It's workign fine, as long as I give the engine a good rev at tghe start of charging. I was talking to somkeone from the local boatyard who said it's the same with all barus shires. Not sure how true that is, but at least it's not just me!

 

So should there be a little light attached to the plug thing?

 

img0337o.jpg

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If you have a Barrus standard panel you will have warning lights for engine and domestic alternators . If you have the deluxe panel you have a light in the panel for the domestic alternator and a small light in voltmeter. All clearly illustrated in the Barrus manual which you can download from thr Barrus website.

I think the white connector is for use when adding a charge controller, I querried this connector with Barrus and they said not to connect to anything.

Edited by Flyboy
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So here at last is my altenator. It's workign fine, as long as I give the engine a good rev at tghe start of charging. I was talking to somkeone from the local boatyard who said it's the same with all barus shires. Not sure how true that is, but at least it's not just me!

 

So should there be a little light attached to the plug thing?

 

img0337o.jpg

 

NO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

This fly lead is fitted specifically for external control if it is fitted onto the adjacent spade connector it bypasses the internal regulator and knackers the batteries the TV and eventually the alternator. Yes I was the one who found out the hard way although the circumstances weren't as straight forwarded as just making a mistake!

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Just going back to basics... are you confident in your voltmeter being pretty much accurate ? A long shot maybe, but without knowing correct readings all this good advice could be going astray a bit.

Even if you can borrow another to verify yours that would be good enough probably.

 

Nick

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So here at last is my altenator. It's workign fine, as long as I give the engine a good rev at tghe start of charging. I was talking to somkeone from the local boatyard who said it's the same with all barus shires. Not sure how true that is, but at least it's not just me!

 

So should there be a little light attached to the plug thing?

 

img0337o.jpg

 

That is a Barrus Alternator and it even has the Barrus clamp on it stating 110 amp on it. Its a Prestolite part no/model 35215315. In my discussions with Barrus about the fly lead/numpties connecting it up I was advised of the following B+ battery pos B- battery neg D+ to warning lamp W to tacho. I've got the wiring diagram but not the know how to put it on the site. In its standard fit it has a multi V belt fitted which squeals if its not tight when the engines started so beware with the single belt in the photo.

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That is a Barrus Alternator and it even has the Barrus clamp on it stating 110 amp on it. Its a Prestolite part no/model 35215315. In my discussions with Barrus about the fly lead/numpties connecting it up I was advised of the following B+ battery pos B- battery neg D+ to warning lamp W to tacho. I've got the wiring diagram but not the know how to put it on the site. In its standard fit it has a multi V belt fitted which squeals if its not tight when the engines started so beware with the single belt in the photo.

 

If you want to Pm me for my email ill gladly post it for you.

 

Edit: Found details on the net here

Edited by wonderdust
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If you want to Pm me for my email ill gladly post it for you.

 

Edit: Found details on the net here

 

It pays to shop around when buying replacement alternators, Barrus quoted £185 + vat + delivery I obtained mine from a local source new for £125 + vat (prestolite as shown)

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Details sent from mikevye

 

B+ > To Battery positive

 

B- > To Battery negative

 

D+ > To warning lamp via switch / ignition.

 

W > To Tacho, if used. If not needed then ignore.

The fly lead is for use with a 3rd party regulator, to bypass Prestolite regulator. If a 3rd party regulator is not used then this lead must be insulated and ignored.

 

untitled4.jpg

 

35215315.jpg

Edited by wonderdust
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  • 1 month later...
Lordy! I totally forgot this thread. So can I take it now that the warning light terminal is identified, light connected and alternator cutting in early? Is there still a problem with insufficient charge?

Forget my balls if they weren't in a bag!

 

er.. no :lol:

 

I can charge my batteries fine but I still have to give the engine some revs first. I can then stick it back to idling and it works fine. It's not too much of a problem tbh.

 

Still, I can live with that and I've been assured by someone else with a barrus that theirs does the same!

 

I can see from the diagram where the lampo should go. What bulb do I need and which wire do I connect where?

 

Now I look at it there looks like there's something connected to where it should go. :confused:

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er.. no :lol:

 

I can charge my batteries fine but I still have to give the engine some revs first. I can then stick it back to idling and it works fine. It's not too much of a problem tbh.

 

Still, I can live with that and I've been assured by someone else with a barrus that theirs does the same!

 

I can see from the diagram where the lampo should go. What bulb do I need and which wire do I connect where?

 

Now I look at it there looks like there's something connected to where it should go. :confused:

 

It's best to start a cold engine off load anyway, let it idle for a minute before blipping throttle to energise alternator. But it's not good for engine to idle for long periods when cold, it needs some revs (1400+) and if possible some load until it reaches operating temp.

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Now I look at it there looks like there's something connected to where it should go. :confused:

Are you absolutely sure that there's no ignition light on your instrument panel?

 

Flyboy explained in post #77 where to look for it.

 

Tony

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If you have a Barrus standard panel you will have warning lights for engine and domestic alternators . If you have the deluxe panel you have a light in the panel for the domestic alternator and a small light in voltmeter. All clearly illustrated in the Barrus manual which you can download from thr Barrus website.

I think the white connector is for use when adding a charge controller, I querried this connector with Barrus and they said not to connect to anything.

 

 

Are you absolutely sure that there's no ignition light on your instrument panel?

 

Flyboy explained in post #77 where to look for it.

 

Tony

 

Missed that. I've got a deluxe panel so I'll look when I get home.

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  • 1 month later...

We are looking to replace our 6 batteries - 5 house and 1 crank - is there any advice on where to buy, or what to buy?

I have looked at BatteryMegastore and they seem reasonable - just got a new car battery from them.

 

Is it better to use more 100AH batteries, or to use 1/2 the number of 200AH batteries?

The Sonnenschein Gel batteries appear to give you more AH/£ than the Tojan ones?

 

What about these on eBay?

They reckon you can run them down to 80% discharge a 1000 times, with a 5yr guaruntee?

 

I need to make a decision soon, as we need some power on the boat without keeping the genny or engine running all the time.

 

How to best look after your batteries? - I am very tempted to get a SmartGuage - is it worth it for the cost?

I guess if we are leaving the boat for any period, we should leave the batteries charged?

 

We are now CC'ing and just invested in a 60w Solar Kit from Maplins for £200 (minus the £15 free email voucher), to keep her topped up whilst we are shore-bound.

We also have a Honda 2kw genny - is it better to use this to charge the batteries through the 30AMP 240v charger, than using the engine?

(Benefit of the engine is it makes hot water at the same time!)

 

The other thing I need some help with is we have an LCD TV/DVD thing, which takes a 12v supply. I thought I could run this straight from the batteries, but sometimes (especially if running the charger) the voltage at the TV socket it over 14volts, which it does not like - where can I get a regulator from?

 

Another tip I am looking for is the best way to replace Halogens with LCD lighting - all help appreciated - thanks.

 

There is some fantastic knowledge on here...

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What about these on eBay?

They reckon you can run them down to 80% discharge a 1000 times, with a 5yr guaruntee?

If you use the Forum Search facility to look for Elecsol batteries (or Elecsols) you will find many discussions about them.

 

Once upon a time Elecsols had a good reputation; we used them very successfully for years. But I wouldn't buy them now.

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If you use the Forum Search facility to look for Elecsol batteries (or Elecsols) you will find many discussions about them.

 

Once upon a time Elecsols had a good reputation; we used them very successfully for years. But I wouldn't buy them now.

And if you still intend to buy them after you read everything about them get the Guarantee saying 5 years on a boat in writing (if you can)

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Another tip I am looking for is the best way to replace Halogens with LCD lighting - all help appreciated - thanks.

 

There is some fantastic knowledge on here...

 

Depends on your fittings. My deckhead boat lights were mainly BA15d sockets for which there are adaptors on Ebay for g4 leds or mr11/16 spotlight leds. I bought from China via EBay some 21/36 led bulbs but the pins are not in line so do not fit ba15d sockets. I soldered leads on these and spliced them into the lights (in twos) thereby utilising and achieving luminance above the previous 10 watt halogens. I have tried the softer 6smd and 15led g4 offerings (in the adapters) purporting to be equivalent to 15 watt halogens but they are not' though adequate and worth it for the power consumption saving.

 

I have five wall lights with BC22 bus bulb sockets and am looking to maybe araldite new mr11/16 connectors (50p each for 12 from EBay China) therein. The 60 led mr16s are pretty goos at 4Pouns each, less than the 10 watt halogens they will be replacing!

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SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.

Is it better to use more 100AH batteries, or to use 1/2 the number of 200AH batteries?

Get the 200Ah batteries but buy the same number as you would 100Ah, you will then have a large battery bank.

Of course these will still need to be recharged, remember as a guide the batteries need to receive 1.5 times that, that has been taken out of them.

 

The Sonnenschein Gel batteries appear to give you more AH/£ than the Tojan ones?

Honestly do not know which is the better but the advice on here and from others I have asked is to fit wet cell batteries unless for other reasons gell or AGM are needed.

 

How to best look after your batteries? - I am very tempted to get a SmartGuage - is it worth it for the cost?

I have a Smartgauge and it does what it says on the packet.

 

I guess if we are leaving the boat for any period, we should leave the batteries charged?

Yes if possible or use solar panels, shoreline etc. to keep them topped up.

 

We also have a Honda 2kw genny - is it better to use this to charge the batteries through the 30AMP 240v charger, than using the engine?

Depends on the type of charger, a cheap car battery charger is not good a three stage charger would be.

An engine mounted alternator needs to be run at 3,000rpm [engine speed 1,000rpm if the pulley ratio is three to one] or above to get its bets output and that will not be near its rated amount, again learnt on here.

 

The other thing I need some help with is we have an LCD TV/DVD thing, which takes a 12v supply. I thought I could run this straight from the batteries, but sometimes (especially if running the charger) the voltage at the TV socket it over 14volts, which it does not like - where can I get a regulator from?

Maplins ?

 

Another tip I am looking for is the best way to replace Halogens with LED lighting - all help appreciated - thanks.

Search google for LED lighting, couple of links:

 

http://www.atenlighting.co.uk/home.php

 

http://www.bedazzled.uk.com/

 

Edited by bottle
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What about these on eBay?

They reckon you can run them down to 80% discharge a 1000 times, with a 5yr guaruntee?

 

I need to make a decision soon, as we need some power on the boat without keeping the genny or engine running all the time.

 

How to best look after your batteries? - I am very tempted to get a SmartGuage - is it worth it for the cost?

I guess if we are leaving the boat for any period, we should leave the batteries charged?

 

We also have a Honda 2kw genny - is it better to use this to charge the batteries through the 30AMP 240v charger, than using the engine?

(Benefit of the engine is it makes hot water at the same time!)

 

Use cheap wet cells and expect 18 months to 3 years use. Stated no of battery cycles means cycles down to 50% SOC so a bank of 5x110ah (550 ah) with a claimed 300 cycles on an average liveaboard without shorepower will, in theory, last 635 days. (50% of 550ah x 300 cycles = 82,500ah /130 ah per day)

 

Though as has been said you need to put 1.5 time the energy into charge batts this is only if you charge to 100%. Up to approx 80% SOC charge efficiency is nearly 100% i.e. 100 amp charge rate will replace 100ah in just over 1 hour. If you start off with new 100% charged batts and charge for say an hour each day untill batts are down to 60% SOC (partial state of charging) then do a full 100% equalising charge it will optimise battery costs against fuel costs but this is assuming you can choose engine running time. Having said all this the nearer to 100% SOC you can charge batts the longer they will last, several hours cruising for instance will give a longer charge which is better for batts.

 

We prefer charging with main engine as it sounds less manic and when doing a bulk charge it's just as economical as a generator + as you say a bonus is hot water. We use our 2kW genny to do a weekly 8 hr equalising charge via onboard Victron 3 stage charger.

 

The only way to get a reliable % battery SOC reading is to use a Smartgauge, shunt based monitors become increasingly inaccurate needing a regular 100% recharge to reset themselves.

Edited by nb Innisfree
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Thank you for the help thus far... OK so how about Lucas batteries?

 

Again there is an eBay offering;

£85 for 113 A/H (75p/Amp) or £145 for 180 A/H (81p/Amp)

A link, supposedly 500 cycles at 70% discharge on the 113 a/h ones as this is supposed to be next gen technology, the 180 a/h batteries are different, does anyone have any experience?

 

Money is, as always, in limited supply.

 

Also on eBay there are some ex-UPS batteries - 100A/H for £45 or 105 for £50 - would they be any good? - Link

 

Or please - tell me where a good place to buy is and what to ask for :lol: Thanks

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Thank you for the help thus far... OK so how about Lucas batteries?

 

Again there is an eBay offering;

£85 for 113 A/H (75p/Amp) or £145 for 180 A/H (81p/Amp)

A link, supposedly 500 cycles at 70% discharge on the 113 a/h ones as this is supposed to be next gen technology, the 180 a/h batteries are different, does anyone have any experience?

 

Money is, as always, in limited supply.

 

Also on eBay there are some ex-UPS batteries - 100A/H for £45 or 105 for £50 - would they be any good? - Link

 

Or please - tell me where a good place to buy is and what to ask for :lol: Thanks

 

The Wharf at Norbury (tel 01785 284292) are doing 110ah wet cells for £64.99 + 10% discount if more than four are purchased.

Edited by nb Innisfree
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