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Power Saving Tips


NB Alnwick

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Did you misread my original post perchance? I was talking about using solar lights as an alternative to using battery power for lighting the INSIDE of the boat. And no I'm not scared of the dark but a couple of solar LED's just adds a bit more illumination when I'm scrabbling my way to the loo. :lol:

 

On the topic of power saving (instead of pollution). LEDs produce approximately twice as much light per watt than compact fluorescents and 10 times more light than incandescents. They also last 30,000 to 50,000 hours and are available in a variety of flavours (warm or cold white as well as colours if you feel the need).

They are friendlier to the environment, very robust etc etc etc

 

Look here:- http://www.designrecycleinc.com/led%20comp%20chart.html

 

Mark

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  • 1 month later...

On the topic of power saving (instead of pollution). LEDs produce approximately twice as much light per watt than compact fluorescents and 10 times more light than incandescents. They also last 30,000 to 50,000 hours and are available in a variety of flavours (warm or cold white as well as colours if you feel the need).

They are friendlier to the environment, very robust etc etc etc

 

Look here:- http://www.designrecycleinc.com/led%20comp%20chart.html

 

Mark

Thanks, Mark. I had been looking for a site which compared light bulbs.

 

Alan

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not sure if this points already been made?

Most phones and tablet computers, iPads etc, will charge from a USB port. You can get devices to plug into a car cigarette lighter socket with 2 USB sockets in it. I'm not sure what an iPhone draws when it's charging from this but my clamp meter won't register it.

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On the topic of power saving (instead of pollution). LEDs produce approximately twice as much light per watt than compact fluorescents and 10 times more light than incandescents. They also last 30,000 to 50,000 hours and are available in a variety of flavours (warm or cold white as well as colours if you feel the need).

They are friendlier to the environment, very robust etc etc etc

 

Look here:- http://www.designrecycleinc.com/led%20comp%20chart.html

 

Mark

 

I wouldn't take those figures too seriously, CFL bulbs and LED bulbs are very similar in efficentcy for the same lumns and colour with LED only slightly better (def not double better!)

 

Ofcourse LED on a boat makes more sense due to a number of reasons but changing CFL bulbs in a house to LED doesn't as much.

Edited by Robbo
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  • 1 month later...

Whenever you make a brew pour the remaining hot water into a thermos flask and then use that water which could well be pretty hot (if you drink as much as I do) for your next brew rather than using new cold water.

 

Or, become very precise at estimating how much water you need for your tea.

 

I learned this growing up because my dad was obsessive about it, if he found there was water sitting in the kettle then he'd hold an inquest to find who was responsible. This made it very easy to avoid wasting power when I moved onto a boat.

 

Cheat way: fill the kettle using a mug to measure, or mark the exact right point on the side of the kettle with a pen.

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Solar garden lights are a great idea. We are using garden "rock" lights which you can keep on the roof then either use them to illuminate mooring pins at night or bring inside to light the cabin. Maplins make a solar powered security light. We haven't tried this yet but it seems that could work well if you set the angle right to help getting aboard when staggering back from the pub.

Another feature we use inside are battery operated flickering candles. They are very authentic, take two C batteries but last months. It's nice to have flickering candlelight with out the obvious fire risk of using the real thing.

Consider too the tiffany style solar lamps you can get (if thats your thing and you have the space). They use a bring LED light and charge up quite well even on overcast days (not always that well - in which case a standard AA battery will last a very long time).

Just a few of the things we've found useful on this infinite learning curve that is canal boating..... dry.gif

 

Just a quick thing, not sure if anyone in the country has POSSIBLY thought of this, and I may be a newbie, and I don't live aboard, (though I want to) but if you have trouble finding your way back to the boat and getting aboard safely at night after the pub:

 

TAKE A TORCH!

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  • 2 months later...

Just a quick thing, not sure if anyone in the country has POSSIBLY thought of this, and I may be a newbie, and I don't live aboard, (though I want to) but if you have trouble finding your way back to the boat and getting aboard safely at night after the pub:

 

TAKE A TORCH!

Your future on this forum is secure with such gems of innovative information.

 

Have you patented that idea? :-)

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Leave the teenagers at home

We do and they cost us a fortune in utility bills. Bring back the old 'transportation' solution for these youngsters and let the Aussies sort them out!

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hi guys!

 

Having lived with the aim of reducing overheads for years and years now (financial restraints apply);

 

Energy is energy. Save it somewhere and it'll go somewhere else. Any power-take-off from the engine - be it heat or battery charging, shower, whatever - will make the engine work harder and the fuel consumption increase.

 

Even using a fire to heat hot water - typically a 5 kilowatt fire like the Morso Squirrel, if it has a back boiler it's only going to throw out about 3 kilowatts of heat, the rest goes on heating the water. You can get a larger stove but will need more fuel (and a dedicated vent, all stoves over 5 require one).

 

Using less of it is the only way to 'save it'.

 

Slow cookers don't use less, they just provide the means to cook very cheap meat cuts to melting softness while you do other things. My pressure cooker can do the same thing in 20 minutes what my slow cooker can do in 8 hours and will not use more or less energy to do this.

 

It depends where you get your energy from. Free energy - as in solar/wind - must be a premium.

 

Solar showers - where you put the bag in the sun and they warm up are brilliant. Having spent 5 years recently in a house with no hot water to the taps or GCH, I used one for a year until I could fit a shower. Navy showering saves energy too - wet all over, turn water off (a kink in the solar shower tube - which I extended with a bit out of my brewing kit - works well) soap, then turn on and rinse off. I could do me and three kids with one bag, heated on the bonnet of my car.

 

Slow cookers - most dishes, meat, can be cooked on high but if you wrap them up you should use the low setting for part of the process, once up to temperature or the meat will cook too fast - say for half the time. Saves energy. I throw a coat over mine!

 

Insulate any hot water masses retentively.

 

Fridges & freezers - if empty spaces fill the spaces with loosely screwed up newspaper. Keep ice boxes defrosted so they can work efficiently.

 

You can get tiny slow cookers at supermarkets, cost a tenner. Don't use pans bigger than you need, don't let the gas up the side of the pan when cooking and invest in a steamer if you eat veg.

 

Steamers are brill - one ring on it's smallest setting once boiling - stack your things up - starch in the water in the bottom (or the sauce for your fish wink.png ) protein on the top and veg in the middle. Presto, a meal for two in 20 mins. Cheep Cheep, too!

 

BTW, pasta - and I have Delia to thank for this: Bring water to the boil, drop the pasta in, bring back to the boil and put the lid on. Turn the gas off. 20 mins later your pasta will be al dente. Saved energy. Cook the sauce on the already hot ring (if electric). Use plastic dishes in the microwave. Sounds basic but you'd be surprised ...

 

Go solar. Wind also, you can get some nifty VAWT style marine turbines now. Small and very very low noise. Lots of batteries so you can make hay while the sun shines. Thin film pv is expensive but works better in cloudy conditions so if you're moored under trees ...

 

Insulate insulate insulate.

 

Free wood is the best wood of all. BTW, if you mix wood and coal, keep an eye on the condition of your stovepipe. Mixed, their emissions give off sulphuric acid which if water is involved, is quite capable of eating the mortar that holds chimneys together.

 

HTH

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Hi guys!

 

Having lived with the aim of reducing overheads for years and years now (financial restraints apply);

 

Energy is energy. Save it somewhere and it'll go somewhere else. Any power-take-off from the engine - be it heat or battery charging, shower, whatever - will make the engine work harder and the fuel consumption increase.

 

Even using a fire to heat hot water - typically a 5 kilowatt fire like the Morso Squirrel, if it has a back boiler it's only going to throw out about 3 kilowatts of heat, the rest goes on heating the water. You can get a larger stove but will need more fuel (and a dedicated vent, all stoves over 5 require one).

 

Using less of it is the only way to 'save it'.

 

Slow cookers don't use less, they just provide the means to cook very cheap meat cuts to melting softness while you do other things. My pressure cooker can do the same thing in 20 minutes what my slow cooker can do in 8 hours and will not use more or less energy to do this.

 

It depends where you get your energy from. Free energy - as in solar/wind - must be a premium.

 

Solar showers - where you put the bag in the sun and they warm up are brilliant. Having spent 5 years recently in a house with no hot water to the taps or GCH, I used one for a year until I could fit a shower. Navy showering saves energy too - wet all over, turn water off (a kink in the solar shower tube - which I extended with a bit out of my brewing kit - works well) soap, then turn on and rinse off. I could do me and three kids with one bag, heated on the bonnet of my car.

 

Slow cookers - most dishes, meat, can be cooked on high but if you wrap them up you should use the low setting for part of the process, once up to temperature or the meat will cook too fast - say for half the time. Saves energy. I throw a coat over mine!

 

Insulate any hot water masses retentively.

 

Fridges & freezers - if empty spaces fill the spaces with loosely screwed up newspaper. Keep ice boxes defrosted so they can work efficiently.

 

You can get tiny slow cookers at supermarkets, cost a tenner. Don't use pans bigger than you need, don't let the gas up the side of the pan when cooking and invest in a steamer if you eat veg.

 

Steamers are brill - one ring on it's smallest setting once boiling - stack your things up - starch in the water in the bottom (or the sauce for your fish wink.png ) protein on the top and veg in the middle. Presto, a meal for two in 20 mins. Cheep Cheep, too!

 

BTW, pasta - and I have Delia to thank for this: Bring water to the boil, drop the pasta in, bring back to the boil and put the lid on. Turn the gas off. 20 mins later your pasta will be al dente. Saved energy. Cook the sauce on the already hot ring (if electric). Use plastic dishes in the microwave. Sounds basic but you'd be surprised ...

 

Go solar. Wind also, you can get some nifty VAWT style marine turbines now. Small and very very low noise. Lots of batteries so you can make hay while the sun shines. Thin film pv is expensive but works better in cloudy conditions so if you're moored under trees ...

 

Insulate insulate insulate.

 

Free wood is the best wood of all. BTW, if you mix wood and coal, keep an eye on the condition of your stovepipe. Mixed, their emissions give off sulphuric acid which if water is involved, is quite capable of eating the mortar that holds chimneys together.

 

HTH

Slow cookers are very INEFFICIENT probably half the energy goes into space heating the boat. I wish I could find a cool to touch one.

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Slow cookers are very INEFFICIENT probably half the energy goes into space heating the boat. I wish I could find a cool to touch one.

 

Possibly, but even on our "minimalaist electrics" boat, one simmering away whilst we are actually boating means its fairly minimal power requirements are taken directly from the alternator, and I very much doubt I could measure the difference in diesel consumption during that day from one where it had not been running!

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Possibly, but even on our "minimalaist electrics" boat, one simmering away whilst we are actually boating means its fairly minimal power requirements are taken directly from the alternator, and I very much doubt I could measure the difference in diesel consumption during that day from one where it had not been running!

I agree, but we would like to keep ours on for a couple of hours after we moor up and I am sure a well insulated one would draw half the current as the ones on sale today and keep warm for a bit longer.

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I agree, but we would like to keep ours on for a couple of hours after we moor up and I am sure a well insulated one would draw half the current as the ones on sale today and keep warm for a bit longer.

Could you make a simple bubble-wrap or polystyrene insulation cup to cover it?...........I've done that with our calorifier using bubble-wrap insulation and it keeps the contents hotter for much* longer

 

 

 

(*I've not carried out statistically significant data research!)

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Could you make a simple bubble-wrap or polystyrene insulation cup to cover it?...........I've done that with our calorifier using bubble-wrap insulation and it keeps the contents hotter for much* longer

 

 

 

(*I've not carried out statistically significant data research!)

If we want to keep it hot we put the cold bag over it

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I have a Russel Hobbs 130W 3-litre slow cooker that was given to me in 1995, and it's still going. It's a large size but has a plastic outer and only the lid gets hot, it's well insulated and has a crock which you can put in the oven. A whole chicken takes about 7 hours on high. Try charity shops. I chuck something thick and heavy over, put it on auto instead of high, and it doesn't lose much. Traditionally, they use as much as a couple of lightbulbs. This was before the advent of LED of course. The small one with my lunch in now is 1.5 litre and uses 120W max.

 

When we had NO heating, I used it in the living room uncovered to warm it up a bit. Not wasted heat then!

 

Oh, and I forgot to add, above - baths, if you have a hip or full sized bath, fill the gap under it with Rockwool. You would NOT believe the difference in how long the bath water stays hot. And then leave the bath to cool as it's basically a latent heat store. A good layer of bubbles insulates it too. Mine warms the whole landing and it's a long one, for hours. Next one I fit will have spray foam on the bottom, I think, which would work but still allow that all-essential storage you need on a boat.

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I have a Russel Hobbs 130W 3-litre slow cooker that was given to me in 1995, and it's still going. It's a large size but has a plastic outer and only the lid gets hot, it's well insulated and has a crock which you can put in the oven. A whole chicken takes about 7 hours on high. Try charity shops. I chuck something thick and heavy over, put it on auto instead of high, and it doesn't lose much. Traditionally, they use as much as a couple of lightbulbs. This was before the advent of LED of course. The small one with my lunch in now is 1.5 litre and uses 120W max.

 

When we had NO heating, I used it in the living room uncovered to warm it up a bit. Not wasted heat then!

 

Oh, and I forgot to add, above - baths, if you have a hip or full sized bath, fill the gap under it with Rockwool. You would NOT believe the difference in how long the bath water stays hot. And then leave the bath to cool as it's basically a latent heat store. A good layer of bubbles insulates it too. Mine warms the whole landing and it's a long one, for hours. Next one I fit will have spray foam on the bottom, I think, which would work but still allow that all-essential storage you need on a boat.

The RH sounds a lot better than ours which I think is about 250 W half going into the room.

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Energy is energy. Save it somewhere and it'll go somewhere else. Any power-take-off from the engine - be it heat or battery charging, shower, whatever - will make the engine work harder and the fuel consumption increase.

 

 

Doesn't that assume that the engine is working at 100% already ? I thought that much of the 'free' by-product of running the engine was just recapturing energy that would have been wasted otherwise... For example - the water heating is storing the heat that the engine generates in such a way that it helps to cool the engine and prevent overheating.... or have I missed something? Obviously that only applies when the engine is being run to move the boat.

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Doesn't that assume that the engine is working at 100% already ? I thought that much of the 'free' by-product of running the engine was just recapturing energy that would have been wasted otherwise... For example - the water heating is storing the heat that the engine generates in such a way that it helps to cool the engine and prevent overheating.... or have I missed something? Obviously that only applies when the engine is being run to move the boat.

 

You're talking about heat recovery, not direct heating. Most commendable. If the heat to heat your water was to an immersion heater via the alternator, it uses the fuel you poured in. You don't get energy from nothing!

 

Think about a car, doing 70mph and burning 35mpg. You put the air con on, and suddenly to do 70 still your consumption goes down to 31mpg.

 

Charging your batteries - car or boat - is doing the same thing but perhaps not quite so noticeably.

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You're talking about heat recovery, not direct heating. Most commendable. If the heat to heat your water was to an immersion heater via the alternator, it uses the fuel you poured in. You don't get energy from nothing!

 

Think about a car, doing 70mph and burning 35mpg. You put the air con on, and suddenly to do 70 still your consumption goes down to 31mpg.

 

Charging your batteries - car or boat - is doing the same thing but perhaps not quite so noticeably.

Since I use the aircon all the time I wouldn't notice - but as I get 68mpg at 60mph I am more concerned by the drop to 63mpg when I do 70mph :-)

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Since I use the aircon all the time I wouldn't notice - but as I get 68mpg at 60mph I am more concerned by the drop to 63mpg when I do 70mph :-)

 

68mpg.....?

 

Surely there's no need for air conditioning whilst riding a moped?

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Energy is energy. Save it somewhere and it'll go somewhere else. Any power-take-off from the engine - be it heat or battery charging, shower, whatever - will make the engine work harder and the fuel consumption increase.

 

Even using a fire to heat hot water - typically a 5 kilowatt fire like the Morso Squirrel, if it has a back boiler it's only going to throw out about 3 kilowatts of heat, the rest goes on heating the water. You can get a larger stove but will need more fuel (and a dedicated vent, all stoves over 5 require one).

 

Fridges & freezers - if empty spaces fill the spaces with loosely screwed up newspaper. Keep ice boxes defrosted so they can work efficiently.

 

 

Hello Ship's Cat,

 

It is commendable that you are concerned about wasted energy and the inherent costs incurred, but I feel that some of your points are not valid. In particular, energy take-off in the form of heat from the engine can be put to efficient use if designed well. We have a three port electrical diverter valve incorporated in our engine coolant system, that during the winter months allows the engine to heat our central heating radiators in the boat, at no extra cost in fuel as the running temperature remains at it optimum setting during this process. This is an efficient means of heating the boat whilst cruising.

 

Also, you make mention of the Morso Squirrel with a back boiler. Ours is rated at 4.6kw and without the backboiler, in order to warm the bedroom at the furthest point from the stove, we would have to have it burning at its optimum output causing an uncomfortable temperature in the saloon where the stove is mounted. By incorporating a back boiler we can distribute the heat throughout the boat without raising the stove's temperature and thus using more fuel. This is by far more efficient and cost effective. Also, we have our kettle resting on the top of our stove in winter months, so that when we require hot water for drinks or even washing purposes we can utilise this ready heated facility.

 

With regard to fridges and freezers, I agree with your view on filling empty spaces as a packed cooling compartment, once it's temperature has been attained, will require less energy from the unit's compressor to maintain that temperature. But by fitting timer switches in the electrical supply to these appliances and having them shut down overnight, you can also make them more energy efficient. Most of their energy consumption is due to the opening of the respective doors and allowing the room temperature to enter food (or beer) compartments. Overnight they retain their temperature setting far better and will only increase in temperature by a couple of degrees depending on the efficiency of the insulation material employed.

 

One method of saving fuel energy that's so obvious, is the inane habit of many boaters who race from one lock in a short pound to the next one, then throw the gearbox in reverse to avoid hitting the gate(s) whilst waiting or their mate to catch up and open it for them! Surely, a child would even realise that if they coast out of the first lock and allow time for their mate to walk up and prepare the next one for entry, they will save not only on fuel, but also in embarrassment when they make such a mess of hovering around the lock entrance battling against a weir or bye-wash.

 

We see this happen on a daily basis where we moor on line.

Edited by Doorman
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The RH sounds a lot better than ours which I think is about 250 W half going into the room.

That sounds like quite a lot of power for a slow cooker!!

 

We have a cheap Tesco branded slow cooker and on high power it is only 120W! (3 litre pot)

 

We use it pretty much every weekend on the boat and dont find it uses much power even when we are moored up. Although by the time we are moored up it is usually switched to low power.

I have a Russel Hobbs 130W 3-litre slow cooker that was given to me in 1995, and it's still going. It's a large size but has a plastic outer and only the lid gets hot, it's well insulated and has a crock which you can put in the oven. A whole chicken takes about 7 hours on high. Try charity shops. I chuck something thick and heavy over, put it on auto instead of high, and it doesn't lose much. Traditionally, they use as much as a couple of lightbulbs. This was before the advent of LED of course. The small one with my lunch in now is 1.5 litre and uses 120W max.

 

When we had NO heating, I used it in the living room uncovered to warm it up a bit. Not wasted heat then!

 

Oh, and I forgot to add, above - baths, if you have a hip or full sized bath, fill the gap under it with Rockwool. You would NOT believe the difference in how long the bath water stays hot. And then leave the bath to cool as it's basically a latent heat store. A good layer of bubbles insulates it too. Mine warms the whole landing and it's a long one, for hours. Next one I fit will have spray foam on the bottom, I think, which would work but still allow that all-essential storage you need on a boat.

7 hours on high for a chicken!

 

We find that an hour on high at the start and beginning of the cooking process and the rest on low is more than ample to cook a medium sized bird.

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