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Anchor size?


Hawksey

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It does not matter how 'good' your boat is - a weld is an unknown. I have steel U-shaped bolts drilled through the deck with a steel plate bolted underneath. They only cost a few pounds at a chandlers. The good thing about them is you can confidently predict their strength.

Then tie off to some thing that either isn't welded (my dollies were 1' long bolted through 9" of oak) or double up.

 

The U-bolts are a sound idea, if you have inferior welded dollies.

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It does not matter how 'good' your boat is - a weld is an unknown. I have steel U-shaped bolts drilled through the deck with a steel plate bolted underneath. They only cost a few pounds at a chandlers. The good thing about them is you can confidently predict their strength.

 

 

At the front, in addition to the T-Stud, I also run the anchor rope through and under the gas locker lid hinges. That allows the load to be spread over more points. One failure will not mean loss of the anchor.

Spreading the load is of course a good idea and bolted fixings can be good but you are implying welds are inherently weak which is just not so. Otherwise I pity the ships that ply the oceans of this world or indeed the pressure vessels/ boilers that are held together by welds.

 

With a bolted structure you do need to take care that the bolts don't vibrate loose as a loose fitting (it only has to be very slight) can be severely weakened and will not take as much load. A lot of the strength of such fixings is in being held tightly to another structure.

Edited by churchward
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Spreading the load is of course a good idea and bolted fixings can be good but you are implying welds are inherently weak which is just not so. Otherwise I pity the ships that ply the oceans of this world or indeed the pressure vessels/ boilers that are held together by welds.

 

To be fair, boiler welds will be x-ray tested (or some other method) and are then known to be good. Our tee-stud was welded on to the best of the welders ability but I have no idea of it's capability.

 

Richard

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To be fair, boiler welds will be x-ray tested (or some other method) and are then known to be good. Our tee-stud was welded on to the best of the welders ability but I have no idea of it's capability.

 

Richard

That is true but it isn't the X-ray that makes the weld good it is the welder and the materials. A good weld is a good weld.

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That is true but it isn't the X-ray that makes the weld good it is the welder and the materials. A good weld is a good weld.

 

But my eyesight isn't good enough to be able to say if a tee-stud weld is good or not, no matter how pretty it is with it's paint and all.

 

Richard

 

Our previous tee stud I would have trusted. It was made of 1" bar drilled through and welded inside the gas locker as well as on the top. We pulled the top bar off in Tewkesbury lock by hanging the boat on the gate chains.

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Go for the biggest size anchor that the smallest member of the crew can handle. No point getting a 25 kilo anchor if only one person can move it; better a 20 or a 15kg, with plenty of chain.

 

I seem to recall, last time the topic came up, that a good idea is to drop a mudweight or something to slow the boat down before you deploy the anchor.

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I seem to recall, last time the topic came up, that a good idea is to drop a mudweight or something to slow the boat down before you deploy the anchor.

Personally, if I was in an emergency situation where the anchor had to be deployed, I would rely on the rope to absorb any shock from deploying the anchor, not a mudweight.

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I would think the T-Stud welder's intention was to give you a nice sturdy mooring fixture. "What do you mean you used it to stop 20 tonnes dead?! Of course it sheered off! What did you expect? It is for mooring!"

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Some of the readily available tee studs are manufactured from cast iron and therefore are not suitable for taking the high lateral shock loading from an anchor warp.

That's okay, the rocks at the bottom of the weir will have stopped the boat, before you've reached the bows, to open the locker and deploy the anchor :lol:

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Some of the readily available tee studs are manufactured from cast iron and therefore are not suitable for taking the high lateral shock loading from an anchor warp.

There is nothing wrong with using cast iron, or cast steel for mooring studs. They are used all over the world on docksides, ships and boats.

 

The problem with using mooring studs on narrow boats is that the weld may well not be strong enough to withstand the shockloads generated when anchoring, especially in emergency situations. A tee stud may well be suitable if it is fitted through the deck with an adequate backing plate to spread the load. Aternatively, a seperate dedicated fitting is best.

 

Howard

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Oh silly me, I forgot to mention the locker is open, with the anchor on top of the chain and warp.

 

I assume you are the forum Jester :lol:

Not at all!

 

I'd suggest going inside a boat, to run to the front, to deploy an anchor, in an emergency, if I was trying to be funny :lol:

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Not at all!

 

I'd suggest going inside a boat, to run to the front, to deploy an anchor, in an emergency, if I was trying to be funny :lol:

 

 

Its all about how you see things of course, the practicalities of deploying an anchor of say 20kg stored on the roof forward of the sliding hatch on a trad, sounds scary to me, clambering around on the exterior of a potentially slippy boat (could be raining you see) trying to launch off this hunk of steel without then getting caught up in the ensuing mayhem of chain and warp going overboard.

 

Nah go on you are the forum Jester. You are arn't you?

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Its all about how you see things of course, the practicalities of deploying an anchor of say 20kg stored on the roof forward of the sliding hatch on a trad, sounds scary to me, clambering around on the exterior of a potentially slippy boat (could be raining you see) trying to launch off this hunk of steel without then getting caught up in the ensuing mayhem of chain and warp going overboard.

 

Nah go on you are the forum Jester. You are arn't you?

I would lean forward and push it overboard. The rode would be coiled and arranged to deploy neatly, as it is emergency equipment it is something I would take extra care with.

 

Your patronising digs won't win you the argument, btw, they just make you look silly.

Edited by carlt
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I would lean forward and push it overboard. The rode would be coiled and arranged to deploy neatly, as it is emergency equipment it is something I would take extra care with.

 

Your patronising digs won't win you the argument, btw, they just make you look silly.

 

 

My appologies, obviously hit a nerve or 2, we all shouldn't make assumptions should we?

 

I have a vivid image of your proposed anchor deployment, not sure many boat owners would want the concequencies of your suggested action. Push it overboard, 20 kg of angry steel crashes into the cabin side...............

 

I'm sure you mean well, I would imagine your suggestions are read and dismissed, oops there I go again, making assumptions.

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My appologies, obviously hit a nerve or 2, we all shouldn't make assumptions should we?

 

I have a vivid image of your proposed anchor deployment, not sure many boat owners would want the concequencies of your suggested action. Push it overboard, 20 kg of angry steel crashes into the cabin side...............

 

I'm sure you mean well, I would imagine your suggestions are read and dismissed, oops there I go again, making assumptions.

If you read through the thread you'll note that most of the comments dismiss the mad dash to the front of the boat.

 

Given the choice between losing the boat and, potentially, being trapped inside, whilst trying to reach the anchor, 60 feet away; or scratching my cabin side, as I deploy the anchor in a few seconds, I know which one I'd pick.

Edited by carlt
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If you read through the thread you'll note that most of the comments dismiss the mad dash to the front of the boat.

 

Given the choice between losing the boat and, potentially, being trapped inside, whilst trying to reach the anchor, 60 feet away; or scratching my cabin side, as I deploy the anchor in a few seconds, I know which one I'd pick.

 

YAWN ok I went through the lot, consensus has it anchor at bow.

 

You really are not a very funny Jester

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YAWN ok I went through the lot, consensus has it anchor at bow.

 

You really are not a very funny Jester

I'm not trying to be funny, but I am right.

 

Suggesting that someone go below decks, in an emergency, is sheer folly.

 

Suggesting that emergency equipment is stowed at the furthest point, from the person controlling the boat, is stupidity.

 

Trying to reinforce it with patronising crap, fortunately, highlights your error.

 

Your deliberately patronising tone has turned, what was a reasoned debate, into stupid row.

 

I've had enough, the stage is yours....

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I'm not trying to be funny, but I am right.

 

Suggesting that someone go below decks, in an emergency, is sheer folly.

 

Suggesting that emergency equipment is stowed at the furthest point, from the person controlling the boat, is stupidity.

 

Trying to reinforce it with patronising crap, fortunately, highlights your error.

 

You are right. In your oppinion. Well done that man !

 

My oppinion is not an error, the safest route from stern to bow, where the majority of anchors are tethered, ( read the posts) is through the boat.

If you have in mind to deploy an anchor it is inherrently safe to go through the boat.

If it is not safe to go through the boat then the anchor is going to do diddly to save you or your boat.

 

 

Edit to say

INTERESTING. IS Carlt an administrator, am I treading on toes. His last post has been added to with no mention of an edit ???

Edited by international_boatbuilder
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That's a good point about the anchor at the rear and of course essential if you are a single hander at least.

 

One other point to the OP is that it is best to consider the anchor and chain as a one shot throw away item. It can be very difficult to retrieve anchors depending on what is on the bottom of the river and can mostly only be done if held fast (as you hope it will be!) by pulling directly upward or a little back from the way it went in.

 

In any case if you can't get it back it will likely to have been £100 or so well spent as it could save your boat, you and your loved ones.

 

The point about anchors being a throw away item is true up to a point , however down on the Broads we make a lot of use of mudweights which will not snag but do provide stopping power and control. We are tidal down here and depending were you are it moves a good pace 4 or 5 knots at times our 40ft X 12ft live-aboard "Tupperware" has a 20kg mudweight plus a 15kg plough anchor, sort of belt and braces.

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The point about anchors being a throw away item is true up to a point , however down on the Broads we make a lot of use of mudweights which will not snag but do provide stopping power and control.

I too use 56lb mudweights, in essex, though I wouldn't want to try to hold my boat, with one.

 

Then again, I had a lobster pot, weighed down with a 2.5kg mushroom, on 8mm rope, once, and I couldn't pull it free using both engines.

Edited by carlt
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