Fitout "good ideas"

[Alan de Enfield]

4 minutes ago, Jennifer McM said:

It would appear that since the installation of the 4 leisure batteries, our Victron software monitor showed a jump of approx 10% increase of charge rate from our solars. 

Yes - not surprising.

[Jennifer McM]

Plus of course, from March onwards the day's lengthened. 

 

Interesting comments, thanks guys ?

[Robbo]

19 minutes ago, Jennifer McM said:

I've asked 'him indoors' [she ducks] in my 'better half's words'..... 

 

The positive and neg take off from the battery bank, should be at the extreme ends of the bank. In our case to positive take off was connected to the third battery in the bank. In the opinion of the electrician, this reduced the charge to the fourth battery.  Since the connection was modified, the leisure battery bank has charged much quicker, and appears to deliver the full potential.

 

Here’s a full explanation of why the wiring was (and still probably is) not full balanced.  http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html

 

The end battery was still getting a full charge, and not reduced because the battery wasn’t basically needing as much.  The effect is basically this battery (and the middle battery) won’t have been used as much as the batteries that had the connections on causing them to age at different rates.  The end battery would have effectively had less cycles on it than the others.   It has no real effect on what amps the bank as a whole can give or take.

[Jennifer McM]

Just now, Robbo said:

Here’s a full explanation of why the wiring was (and still probably is) not full balanced.  http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html

 

The end battery was still getting a full charge, and not reduced because the battery wasn’t basically needing as much.  The effect is basically this battery (and the middle battery) won’t have been used as much as the batteries that had the connections on causing them to age at different rates.  The end battery would have effectively had less cycles on it than the others.   It has no real effect on what amps the bank as a whole can give or take.

Thank you Robbo! Will pass the link to my husband.

 

This reminds me of going to the hairdressers... "Who cut your hair for you last time", said the hairdresser with a horrified look on her face!

[WotEver]

7 minutes ago, Robbo said:

Here’s a full explanation of why the wiring was (and still probably is) not full balanced.  http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html

 

The end battery was still getting a full charge, and not reduced because the battery wasn’t basically needing as much.  The effect is basically this battery (and the middle battery) won’t have been used as much as the batteries that had the connections on causing them to age at different rates.  The end battery would have effectively had less cycles on it than the others.   It has no real effect on what amps the bank as a whole can give or take.

HOWEVER... the effect is pretty marginal. Gibbo’s optimisation is good but not earth shattering, particularly if the interconnects are of a decent size and well terminated. 

[Alan de Enfield]

20 minutes ago, WotEver said:

HOWEVER... the effect is pretty marginal. Gibbo’s optimisation is good but not earth shattering, particularly if the interconnects are of a decent size and well terminated. 

That's the important bit.

 

It is easy to get too 'technical' and trying to chase the last millivolt/milliamp. In real life it just doesn't matter.

Batteries are disposable - if you manage to make them last 1 day longer out of 3 years life - so what ?

[Jennifer McM]

44 minutes ago, Robbo said:

Here’s a full explanation of why the wiring was (and still probably is) not full balanced.  http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html

 

The webpage got a thumbs up, thanks! Just to say the batteries were connected as 'Method 1', and are now changed to 'Method 2'.

[ditchcrawler]

8 hours ago, Sea Dog said:

I know - I was trying to mimic closely the bit I quoted, so it wasn't meant to be Queen's English. Obviously it didn't really work for DC, who agrees despite disagreeing! 

Did you not expect me to do anything other than that?

[Sea Dog]

2 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Did you not expect me to do anything other than that?

I didn't not not expect nuffink, I didn't!

 

[TheBiscuits]

12 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Did you not expect me to do anything other than that?

And it's no, nay, never ...

[NewCanalBoy]

Some great ideas on this thread, especially for newbies like me !!

 

Like the umbrella/washing line combo, might be getting a boat soon that has no canopy/shade yet at either end so was thinking of a plastic pole, some cable ties, and a golfing umbrella to get me by until making something more permanent.

 

Interesting topic about the batteries too, although won't affect me with only a couple of batteries, always interesting to read it in the hope that it sticks in the back of the brain hoping that it might become useful later.

 

Any useful ideas for single handers ?

 

Was thinking about mooring lines. If I come into a mooring and theres a helpful person waiting, maybe if a bow line is being held/offered by something on the side of the boat they could just grab it , rather than lean in more/over to get a line that is just laying on the bow ? Maybe I am creating an issue that actually isn't really there in practice ?

[Alan de Enfield]

17 minutes ago, NewCanalBoy said:

Any useful ideas for single handers ?

 

Was thinking about mooring lines. If I come into a mooring and theres a helpful person waiting, maybe if a bow line is being held/offered by something on the side of the boat they could just grab it , rather than lean in more/over to get a line that is just laying on the bow ? Maybe I am creating an issue that actually isn't really there in practice ? 

Run your bow-line back to the helm position and you can just pass it to a 'helpful person'.

If no 'helpful person' is available, you can just step off the boat taking the bow line with you.

 

Alternatively use the centre-line in the same way.

 

Yes - you are looking for an answer to a problem that doesn't exist.

[bizzard]

Also if you have long centre ropes.  Largish loops spliced onto the ends of them to slip over your arm when climbing up or down lock ladders will leave hands free to grasp the ladder. I  usually chuck my windless up onto the lockside first too before climbing up.

[WotEver]

3 minutes ago, bizzard said:

I  usually chuck my windless up onto the lockside first too before climbing up.

If I tried that it would slip off, hit me on the head, break a side cabin window then snuggle down at the bottom of the lock. 

[bizzard]

1 minute ago, WotEver said:

If I tried that it would slip off, hit me on the head, break a side cabin window then snuggle down at the bottom of the lock. 

Take up Darts for practice.

[TheBiscuits]

1 hour ago, WotEver said:

If I tried that it would slip off, hit me on the head, break a side cabin window then snuggle down at the bottom of the lock. 

Which is why I stuff the handle of mine down the back of my neck and tuck the business end over my shoulder, leaving both hands free.

[Keeping Up]

2 hours ago, NewCanalBoy said:

 

Was thinking about mooring lines. If I come into a mooring and theres a helpful person waiting, maybe if a bow line is being held/offered by something on the side of the boat they could just grab it , rather than lean in more/over to get a line that is just laying on the bow ? Maybe I am creating an issue that actually isn't really there in practice ?

If you do that the helpful person will ALWAYS pull on the rope so that the stern goes out into the middle of the canal and you are then stuffed!

Edited June 14, 2019 by Keeping Up

[Sir Nibble]

Fitting out. A cheap fuse box screwed to a bulkhead by your electrical installation is a really obvious but excellent place to put spare fuses.

[system 4-50]

On 14/06/2019 at 19:58, bizzard said:

Also if you have long centre ropes.  Largish loops spliced onto the ends of them to slip over your arm when climbing up or down lock ladders will leave hands free to grasp the ladder. I  usually chuck my windless up onto the lockside first too before climbing up.

I have an aversion to loops of rope around any part of the body.  Admittedly an end in the hand is also a risk. 

[ditchcrawler]

On 14/06/2019 at 19:31, NewCanalBoy said:

 

 

Any useful ideas for single handers ?

 

Was thinking about mooring lines. If I come into a mooring and theres a helpful person waiting, maybe if a bow line is being held/offered by something on the side of the boat they could just grab it , rather than lean in more/over to get a line that is just laying on the bow ? Maybe I am creating an issue that actually isn't really there in practice ?

If you do come across one, there are a few about, then make sure you offer him the end of your centre line and nothing else.

[RollingFoggy]

On 29/11/2019 at 19:17, Sir Nibble said:

Fitting out. A cheap fuse box screwed to a bulkhead by your electrical installation is a really obvious but excellent place to put spare fuses.

I like this idea,

Rather than routing about in the bottom of a toolbox for an ancient tobacco tin my grandad gave me thirty seven years ago.

[LadyG]

Well deck has no fittings, I would like something to help step off the boat, was thinking phenol board up either side, anyone got ideas about fixing to hull, I am at a boatyard next week, and a boat fitters endofmonth.

PS I need new rear door linings, any ideas on cost?, I am Ok paying for things that "add value/look smart" , I suggested phenol board to boat fitter, he was sceptical!

Edited July 5, 2020 by LadyG

[LadyG]

On 29/11/2019 at 19:43, ditchcrawler said:

If you do come across one, there are a few about, then make sure you offer him the end of your centre line and nothing else.

Asking random person to take bow line will cause them to tie your bow tight, while your stern zooms out in to centre of canal.

 

[noone]

On 08/11/2004 at 19:40, Big COL said:

On the subject of floors, and just out of interest, how many of you have inspection hatches at the rear of your boat that enables you to periodically check for water in the dry bilge?.

If you haven't one then here is a little tip on a quick and easy installation.Select a suitable point between the bearers at the rear of the boat as close as you can to the steel bulkhead that divides the wet and dry bilges. Using a brass pumpout deck fitting drill the appropriate sized hole, clear as much ballast as you can, this may require you to hammer and chisel through a paving slab or a brick depending on what has been used for ballast (this doesn't mean a 14lb sledge hammer or kangos because if you do you won't need an inspection hatch to see if there's any water - you'll be standing in it). If it's steel ingots then you won't be able to remove any but don't worry, ideally its better if you can get down to the base plate. All you need to do now is hacksaw off the hosetail on the back of the pumpout fitting position it in place and screw it to the floor. For future inspections all you need to do is to unscrew the centre bung and with a torch you can see the base plate and any water present. Those who have steel ballast and couldn't remove any to see the base plate can feed a dry taper through as far as you can to see if there is water present. Should there be then you can pump it out from here until you find the cause. Before someone says it could just be condensation I am only providing the means for you to be able to see any water and not probable causes, that can be for another thread.

For those of you that are at the ballasting stage this is the time to select your spot and leave a clear area then the fitting is easier. The idea of using a brassfitting is that you can polish it if it's in view, it's also neat and unobtrusive and eliminates the need to construct carriers that would be needed if it was a removable drop-in hatch,as I have said very easy at build stage, and quite easy on existing boats. Hope this helps some of you

 

All the best

Colin

Fit a bilge pump there maybe?..Most boats are only protected by a bilge pump under the sterngear.

Fine if water comes in from the stern,useless if it comes in via the bow!.

On 08/11/2004 at 19:40, Big COL said:

On the subject of floors, and just out of interest, how many of you have inspection hatches at the rear of your boat that enables you to periodically check for water in the dry bilge?.

If you haven't one then here is a little tip on a quick and easy installation.Select a suitable point between the bearers at the rear of the boat as close as you can to the steel bulkhead that divides the wet and dry bilges. Using a brass pumpout deck fitting drill the appropriate sized hole, clear as much ballast as you can, this may require you to hammer and chisel through a paving slab or a brick depending on what has been used for ballast (this doesn't mean a 14lb sledge hammer or kangos because if you do you won't need an inspection hatch to see if there's any water - you'll be standing in it). If it's steel ingots then you won't be able to remove any but don't worry, ideally its better if you can get down to the base plate. All you need to do now is hacksaw off the hosetail on the back of the pumpout fitting position it in place and screw it to the floor. For future inspections all you need to do is to unscrew the centre bung and with a torch you can see the base plate and any water present. Those who have steel ballast and couldn't remove any to see the base plate can feed a dry taper through as far as you can to see if there is water present. Should there be then you can pump it out from here until you find the cause. Before someone says it could just be condensation I am only providing the means for you to be able to see any water and not probable causes, that can be for another thread.

For those of you that are at the ballasting stage this is the time to select your spot and leave a clear area then the fitting is easier. The idea of using a brassfitting is that you can polish it if it's in view, it's also neat and unobtrusive and eliminates the need to construct carriers that would be needed if it was a removable drop-in hatch,as I have said very easy at build stage, and quite easy on existing boats. Hope this helps some of you

 

All the best

Colin

Fit a bilge pump there maybe?..Most boats are only protected by a bilge pump under the stern gear.Which is fine if water comes in from the stern,useless if it comes in via the bow!.

On 08/11/2004 at 19:40, Big COL said:

On the subject of floors, and just out of interest, how many of you have inspection hatches at the rear of your boat that enables you to periodically check for water in the dry bilge?.

If you haven't one then here is a little tip on a quick and easy installation.Select a suitable point between the bearers at the rear of the boat as close as you can to the steel bulkhead that divides the wet and dry bilges. Using a brass pumpout deck fitting drill the appropriate sized hole, clear as much ballast as you can, this may require you to hammer and chisel through a paving slab or a brick depending on what has been used for ballast (this doesn't mean a 14lb sledge hammer or kangos because if you do you won't need an inspection hatch to see if there's any water - you'll be standing in it). If it's steel ingots then you won't be able to remove any but don't worry, ideally its better if you can get down to the base plate. All you need to do now is hacksaw off the hosetail on the back of the pumpout fitting position it in place and screw it to the floor. For future inspections all you need to do is to unscrew the centre bung and with a torch you can see the base plate and any water present. Those who have steel ballast and couldn't remove any to see the base plate can feed a dry taper through as far as you can to see if there is water present. Should there be then you can pump it out from here until you find the cause. Before someone says it could just be condensation I am only providing the means for you to be able to see any water and not probable causes, that can be for another thread.

For those of you that are at the ballasting stage this is the time to select your spot and leave a clear area then the fitting is easier. The idea of using a brassfitting is that you can polish it if it's in view, it's also neat and unobtrusive and eliminates the need to construct carriers that would be needed if it was a removable drop-in hatch,as I have said very easy at build stage, and quite easy on existing boats. Hope this helps some of you

 

All the best

Colin

Fit a bilge pump there maybe?..Most boats are only protected by a bilge pump under the stern gear.Which is fine if water comes in from the stern,useless if it comes in via the bow!.

[Alan de Enfield]

12 minutes ago, Leggers do it lying down said:

Fit a bilge pump there maybe?..Most boats are only protected by a bilge pump under the sterngear.

Fine if water comes in from the stern,useless if it comes in via the bow!.

Fit a bilge pump there maybe?..Most boats are only protected by a bilge pump under the stern gear.Which is fine if water comes in from the stern,useless if it comes in via the bow!.

Fit a bilge pump there maybe?..Most boats are only protected by a bilge pump under the stern gear.Which is fine if water comes in from the stern,useless if it comes in via the bow!.

 

Resurrection - replying to a 16 year old post !