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Non slip roof and gunwales


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Hi Sid

 

There's a joke about gas but I expect you have heard it. :lol:

 

I believe the method is to paint the roof, then put the sand on, when all dry paint the roof again.

 

or

 

There is this Protecta-kote, I expect there are many other ways.

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Hi

Well what is the norm to create a non slip surface if any on the boats roof etc, I have seen sand mixed with paint, is that it???? I wondered if anyone has a preference on this matter :lol:

That is what used on the gunwales, but there is a bit more to it. First of all you need to mix the slip resistant paint. Some people use Sandpit sand because it has been washed and sieved, but I used normal building sand which I washed myself, dried (in the oven!) and then seived with the fine Kitchen sieve (this was done whilst the other half was away for a few days!) the sand was then added to a half full tin of top coat paint and mixed until the consistency was like treacle.

 

Now for the painting. The gunwale was painted normally with undercoat and one coat of gloss top coat, then the edges were masked off with tape, and the sand mixed paint was applied with a stiff short haired brush, using a stipple action, the sand qiuickly settles to the bottom of the tin, so regular mixing is essential. When the stippled coat is dry a second coat can be applied if necessary. When that is dry, remove the masking tape and paint the entire area with a further coat of normal top coat.

 

This method it more time consuming than the other method of painting with top coat and then sieving dry sand onto the wet paint, but in my experience is far more successful. I did my gunwales ten years ago and they are still fine.

Edited by David Schweizer
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Yes well very nice but all aload of crap, I have a brand new product which was designed for the non slip area's on US Navy gun ships, it can be done to any shade required by the normal pigment mixing, and the surface is guaranteed for a life time, the non slip chips are evenly spread and the finish is 100% level...the sand method is rubbish...I have done a couple of friends boats and they are over the moon, it does need some preparation before being applied but well worth it in the end, would anyone be interested in this product ? and if so let me know I am seriously thinking of setting up a service for boat owners because it is so good and advanced...any thoughts :lol:

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My boat had the gunwales etc finished in "non-slip" treated paint. I use the quotation marks intentionally. Whilst it was reasonable when dry, as soon as it got wet it was slippery s hell. i had it redone with kiln-dried sand in the traditional method and it has been fine. I quite happily walk along the wet gunwales and don't even feel the need to hold on to the hand rail.

 

The method is to put on normal undercoat and topcoat. Then mask off and apply a second coat of topcoat and add the sand whilst still wet. Apply another coat of topcoat over the sand.

 

One hears tales of the sand penetrating the base coats and causing corrosion but if done properly it will last for years and stay non-slip.

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Yes well very nice but all aload of crap, I have a brand new product which was designed for the non slip area's on US Navy gun ships, it can be done to any shade required by the normal pigment mixing, and the surface is guaranteed for a life time, the non slip chips are evenly spread and the finish is 100% level...the sand method is rubbish...I have done a couple of friends boats and they are over the moon, it does need some preparation before being applied but well worth it in the end, would anyone be interested in this product ? and if so let me know I am seriously thinking of setting up a service for boat owners because it is so good and advanced...any thoughts :lol:

 

How much would it cost to do a roof on a 60 ft boat tho

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Sorry, but am I missing something here, you ask for advice, you get it, you then tell those that offer it with the best intentions it's 'A load of crap' and then offer a service to do the self-same thing you asked advice for in the first place.

 

 

 

If you've got something that will do a good job why not state that in the first place.

 

Edited to add, thanks for the edit moderators, I was a bit OTT with that last remark, just a tad annoyed :lol: .

Edited by johnjo
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Yes well very nice but all aload of crap, I have a brand new product which was designed for the non slip area's on US Navy gun ships, it can be done to any shade required by the normal pigment mixing, and the surface is guaranteed for a life time, the non slip chips are evenly spread and the finish is 100% level...the sand method is rubbish...I have done a couple of friends boats and they are over the moon, it does need some preparation before being applied but well worth it in the end, would anyone be interested in this product ? and if so let me know I am seriously thinking of setting up a service for boat owners because it is so good and advanced...any thoughts :lol:

 

You are not a nice person, please go away.

Edited by David Schweizer
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Sorry, but am I missing something here, you ask for advice, you get it, you then tell those that offer it with the best intentions it's 'A load of crap' and then offer a service to do the self-same thing you asked advice for in the first place.

 

If you've got something that will do a good job why not state that in the first place.

I agree 100%

 

A completely bizarre sequel to the original posting.

 

Revolutionary new propeller, anybody ? :lol:

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Hi

Well what is the norm to create a non slip surface if any on the boats roof etc, I have seen sand mixed with paint, is that it???? I wondered if anyone has a preference on this matter :lol:

 

International Interdeck (well stirred, to get the sand mixed in) on the roof, rear deck, front cockpit floor, front locker tops. Applied (fast) with a mini roller (then you don't get unsightly edges)

Hand sieved sharp sand, dried in the kitchen oven and sieved with Mrs TNC's finest cooking sieves, (I did not get caught!) sprinkled on the second, masked off top coat on the gunwales, the painted over.

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I agree 100%

 

A completely bizarre sequel to the original posting.

 

Revolutionary new propeller, anybody ? :lol:

 

 

ditto

 

 

 

BTW, I used to use WIKES masonry paint on the deck of Emblem.....excellent textured surface and very hard wearing.

 

Not sure how well it would stick to a metal gunnel though

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ditto

 

 

 

BTW, I used to use WIKES masonry paint on the deck of Emblem.....excellent textured surface and very hard wearing.

 

Not sure how well it would stick to a metal gunnel though

 

interesting been painting some steel skips with masonary textured paint and it seems to stick well

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Sorry if some got my post the wrong way, I am a nice person how dare you judge...anyway it's obvious that I'm wasting my time explaining this great product to anyone on a forum. I'm taking it straight to the boatbuilders and self fitout guys out there, if anyone would like any further information PM me as I'm not prepared to argue with folk on a forum, Saltysplash if you wish I could arrage a sample for you to test. bye for now

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Sid

 

It is good of you to apologise and I thank you for that.

 

You may well be the nicest guy on the planet but many of us do not like being 'conned'.

 

I have no doubt your intentions were good, you just made the mistake in your presentation.

 

Do take your 'paint' elsewhere, if it is any good then it will eventually get into the public domain.

 

We shall see, good luck with your venture if you decide to go forward with it.

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Sorry if some got my post the wrong way, I am a nice person how dare you judge...anyway it's obvious that I'm wasting my time explaining this great product to anyone on a forum. I'm taking it straight to the boatbuilders and self fitout guys out there, if anyone would like any further information PM me as I'm not prepared to argue with folk on a forum, Saltysplash if you wish I could arrage a sample for you to test. bye for now

I will dare what I like. You submitted a post asking for advice asking how to do something on a boat. I responded with a detailed explanation of a susuccessful method. You replied stating that my suggestuion was "a load of crap" and "rubbish" merely in order to advertise something which you are trying to market, and claim to be superior. I take people as I find them, and I found your approach to be indicative of someone who is not very nice, hence my comment.

 

Oh and by the way if this product you are promoting is as you claim, how have you managed to circumnavigate the stringent MOD exclusive product licencing regulations? or is it such an old product for the licence to have expired? In which case, why are the Manufacturers not seeking to market it to the Boating World. Smoke and Mirrors, or Emperor's new clothes?

Edited by David Schweizer
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Oh and by the way if this product you are promoting is as you claim, how have you managed to circumnavigate the stringent MOD exclusive product licencing regulations? or is it such an old product for the licence to have expired? In which case, why are the Manufacturers not seeking to market it to the Boating World. Smoke and Mirrors, or Emperor's new clothes?

"I don't believe you have a business there, so I'm out!"

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I've used aquarium sand - I think this is sometimes called silver sand. It usually has a nice even grain size and doesn't affect the paint colour.

 

Another "cunning plan" is to mix ordinary household sugar with two-pack epoxy. When the epoxy has set and it gets wetted by rain, the sugar dissolves out, leaving an exceptionally abrasive finish. When I sailed dinghies a friend of mine did this with two-pack epoxy varnish, and it took the knees out of his wetsuit and left him bleeding!

 

P.S. I don't sell sugar, aquarium sand, or two-pack epoxy paint.

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I've used aquarium sand - I think this is sometimes called silver sand. It usually has a nice even grain size and doesn't affect the paint colour.

 

Another "cunning plan" is to mix ordinary household sugar with two-pack epoxy. When the epoxy has set and it gets wetted by rain, the sugar dissolves out, leaving an exceptionally abrasive finish. When I sailed dinghies a friend of mine did this with two-pack epoxy varnish, and it took the knees out of his wetsuit and left him bleeding!

P.S. I don't sell sugar, aquarium sand, or two-pack epoxy paint.

Ouch

 

The finish on my front well gunwales is not disimilar, although a couple of coats of paint has sotened it a bit. A friend of mine commented that it was like tarmac, which suited me as it can often be quite a high step up onto the bow, and the last thing you want to do is loose your grip.

Edited by David Schweizer
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I've used aquarium sand - I think this is sometimes called silver sand. It usually has a nice even grain size and doesn't affect the paint colour.

 

Another "cunning plan" is to mix ordinary household sugar with two-pack epoxy. When the epoxy has set and it gets wetted by rain, the sugar dissolves out, leaving an exceptionally abrasive finish. When I sailed dinghies a friend of mine did this with two-pack epoxy varnish, and it took the knees out of his wetsuit and left him bleeding!

 

P.S. I don't sell sugar, aquarium sand, or two-pack epoxy paint.

 

 

What about wetsuits though? :lol:

 

Kayak!

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We used International interdeck and it didn't seem to be waterproof as we had a lot of rust on our roof very soon afterwards.

Sue

Did you paint the roof with a coat of Gloss first? I was told by someone that if you must use Interdeck,which is what I plan to use on our boat roof, you should prepare the roof as one would for the sides (ie two coats of undercoat/primer and at least one coat of topcoat) and then apply two coats of Interdeck on top.

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