Taking 1/2" pipe through a 10mm Alde bubble tester?

[blackrose]

What's the best way for me to get 1/2" pipe through a 10mm Alde bubble tester? (They don't come in 1/2")

 

Should I use 1/2" - 10mm couplings (if they exist) either side of the bubble tester and connect the tester witha short section of 10mm pipe, or my chandler has 1/2" to 1/4" BSP male fittings which he says I can use to connect my 1/2" pipe directly to the bubble tester after cracking the standard 10mm fittings off the bubble tester and using those instead. I'm a bit hesitant to crack the fittings off the bubble tester. Also I haven't seen the fittings he's recommending yet so I don't know what the internal bore is but I'd rather not reduce any more than necessary.

[alan_fincher]

I can't answer your question completely, Mike, but....

 

Calor Marine Shop (aka Calor Southampton) can supply an Alde bubble tester that has had it's metric fittings changed to 3/8" BSP.

 

http://www.calormarineshop.co.uk/acatalog/..._Detectors.html

 

It may be more sensible to attempt the all imperial 3/8" to 1/2" conversion, than a 10mm to 1/2" conversion.

 

As there should be only a minimal length of solid pipe between your regulator and the tester, there seems to be little reason not to do that short length in 3/8" pipe, as this is not going to restrict the flow any more than the fittings on the tester.

 

Then you only need to convert 3/8" to 1/2" for the long supply to your appliances, (I do this at the bulkhead fitting, where the supply exits the locker). It's a combination of the bore of the pipe and it's length that has an impact, so you certainly need the big pipe for the long runs.

 

That's how mine's done anyway, and with 4 hob burners, oven, grill, fridge & Morco all running, there is no noticeable weakening of any of the flames, (which pleased Mr BSS).

 

Alan

[nickelodeus]

I can't answer your question completely, Mike, but....

 

Calor Marine Shop (aka Calor Southampton) can supply an Alde bubble tester that has had it's metric fittings changed to 3/8" BSP.

 

http://www.calormarineshop.co.uk/acatalog/..._Detectors.html

 

It may be more sensible to attempt the all imperial 3/8" to 1/2" conversion, than a 10mm to 1/2" conversion.

 

As there should be only a minimal length of solid pipe between your regulator and the tester, there seems to be little reason not to do that short length in 3/8" pipe, as this is not going to restrict the flow any more than the fittings on the tester.

 

Then you only need to convert 3/8" to 1/2" for the long supply to your appliances, (I do this at the bulkhead fitting, where the supply exits the locker). It's a combination of the bore of the pipe and it's length that has an impact, so you certainly need the big pipe for the long runs.

 

That's how mine's done anyway, and with 4 hob burners, oven, grill, fridge & Morco all running, there is no noticeable weakening of any of the flames, (which pleased Mr BSS).

 

Alan

 

 

Hi,

 

I went through exactly the same dilemma earlier in the year. What I did in the end was to remove the 2x 10mm stud couplings that come attached to the bubble tester and replace them with 2x 10mm stud to 1/2" compression fittings. Make sure they are taper thread. Don't try boatyard chandleries cos the chances are they won't have them. I got mine from Aquafax - perfect. Seal the new fittings with a bit of gas tape.

 

Nick

[alan_fincher]

Hi,

 

I went through exactly the same dilemma earlier in the year. What I did in the end was to remove the 2x 10mm stud couplings that come attached to the bubble tester and replace them with 2x 10mm stud to 1/2" compression fittings. Make sure they are taper thread. Don't try boatyard chandleries cos the chances are they won't have them. I got mine from Aquafax - perfect. Seal the new fittings with a bit of gas tape.

 

Nick

That sounds even better, if you can get the bits. (Basically similar to how Calor Marine Shop are modiying to imperial, but their biggest size is 3/8" not 1/2").

 

As you say, it needs to be the PTFE tape designed for gas, not the normal water plumbing stuff.

 

I wish you had answered a similar query, when I was trying to do much the same thing as Mike!

[blackrose]

Thanks chaps, the 10mm stud to 1/2" compression fittings sound better than the ones I'm being offered.

 

Cheers - Mike

[Guest]

Bubble testers have a maximum allowable capacity of 12kw - most cookers are below that these days eg Stoves 500 DIT = 10.4kw so no worries. If you install one where there is a greater demand from appliances then you should fit the tester in a bypass section of pipework with isolators either side apparently.

 

Ask the Boat Safety Scheme Tech people.

[blackrose]

Bubble testers have a maximum allowable capacity of 12kw - most cookers are below that these days eg Stoves 500 DIT = 10.4kw so no worries. If you install one where there is a greater demand from appliances then you should fit the tester in a bypass section of pipework with isolators either side apparently.

 

Ask the Boat Safety Scheme Tech people.

 

Ah, I hadn't thought of that. Thanks.

 

My hot water heater has a nominal rated output of 9.4kw and a nominal rated input of 12.3kw (based on gross CV). Gas consumption is 1.05 kg/h

 

The gas fridge on the same run has a gas consumption of 12 - 15 g/h or 0.16 - 0.21 kw.

 

I'm not sure if I use the hot water heater's rated input or output? It's bound to be input and that would give me a total of about 12.5kw. Am I going to get away without a bypass?

Edited September 12, 2008 by blackrose

[alan_fincher]

Mike,

 

We have the full Monty...

 

4 Ring hob

Oven

Grill

Fridge

Morco

 

There is no discernible weakening of flames if everything is turned on together

 

We have no bypass on the Alde tester, and the gas run in the locker is in 3/8", only becoming 1/2" beyond the bulkhead.

 

Unless you are planning gas fired CH as well, I'm sure you will be fine.

 

Alan

[blackrose]

Mike,

 

We have the full Monty...

 

4 Ring hob

Oven

Grill

Fridge

Morco

 

There is no discernible weakening of flames if everything is turned on together

 

We have no bypass on the Alde tester, and the gas run in the locker is in 3/8", only becoming 1/2" beyond the bulkhead.

 

Unless you are planning gas fired CH as well, I'm sure you will be fine.

 

Alan

 

Thanks Alan, that's reassuring. I estimate your entire kw consumption would be around 20kw.

 

My run is in 1/2" for about 40ft (apart from where it goes through the bubble tester), and it reduces to 3/8 for the last 7ft to the water heater and fridge. I could do the bypass without too much trouble but it means going back to Uxbridge and getting more bits.

 

Any more of this and I'll have to think about a bypass for myself!

[blackrose]

Hi,

 

I went through exactly the same dilemma earlier in the year. What I did in the end was to remove the 2x 10mm stud couplings that come attached to the bubble tester and replace them with 2x 10mm stud to 1/2" compression fittings. Make sure they are taper thread. Don't try boatyard chandleries cos the chances are they won't have them. I got mine from Aquafax - perfect. Seal the new fittings with a bit of gas tape.

 

Nick

 

I keep hearing about Aquafax but I can't find anything in their catalogue. It seems very inadequate to me and my local chandler has a much better selection of gas fittings.

 

http://www.aquafax.co.uk/html/subcategories.asp?ID=11

 

Where are the 10mm (male) stud to 1/2" gas compression fittings mentioned above for example? Also I can't find a pedestal gas isolator tap of any description!

 

Am I looking at the wrong website or don't they publish the full range for some reason?

Edited September 14, 2008 by blackrose