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Thatford flush leak


frogprints

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Our three years old Thetford c200 has started, occasionally, filling up with flush water. :) There is no constant drip from the flush tube but I guess an internal seal may be going.

Given the high price of the replacement valve has anyone had experience of replacing just the seal, is it feasible?.

From the manual the dissasembly to get to the valve seems to be a b*****r! so any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers David

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Thanks for the reply's.

 

We got back to the boat on Friday to find that the water gremlins had been busy & the bowl was overflowing, thankfully with clean water, despite having turned off the pump ( and opened a tap to reduce the pressure ) and turned off the stop cock in the circuit ( obviously not stop-cocking!).

 

So I have fitted another valve adjacent to the toilet as a temporary ( :P ) measure pending investment in a new flush valve.

 

Wishing you all 'dry mooring lines!' :P

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  • 2 years later...

Finally got round to replacing the flush valve - it finally stopped working <_<.

 

However, when I fitted the replcement valve and connect to a 12v supply, the component,( resistor? diode?) wired between the valve connections quickly heats up when the swith is pressed and starts smoking! :banghead:

 

The Thetford instructions/parts list does not show this item & I wonder at it's purpose and if it has 'failed'. . . . .

 

BTW to test I am using a battery charger as my 12v supply is this a problem?

 

Cheers

David

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Finally got round to replacing the flush valve - it finally stopped working <_<.

 

However, when I fitted the replcement valve and connect to a 12v supply, the component,( resistor? diode?) wired between the valve connections quickly heats up when the swith is pressed and starts smoking! :banghead:

 

The Thetford instructions/parts list does not show this item & I wonder at it's purpose and if it has 'failed'. . . . .

 

BTW to test I am using a battery charger as my 12v supply is this a problem?

 

Cheers

David

 

It's possibly a diode to suppress spikes from the valve solenoid coil, and you've connected the supply the wrong way round. Try reversing the polarity of the supply. (Though, if you've let the magic smoke out, all bets are off, really).

 

MP.

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It's possibly a diode to suppress spikes from the valve solenoid coil, and you've connected the supply the wrong way round. Try reversing the polarity of the supply. (Though, if you've let the magic smoke out, all bets are off, really).

 

MP.

 

Thanks for he quick reply - looks like that is the problem - though I was very careful about connecting it up :blush:

 

 

Just out of interest, what would be the result of the spikes not being surpressed?

 

Trip to Maplins called for!

 

Thanks again

David

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Just out of interest, what would be the result of the spikes not being surpressed?

The contacts on the flush switch might wear faster, I doubt it would be a big problem.

 

Note that the "cassette full" light is a LED and polarity sensitive too, as long as the cassette wasn't full or wasn't installed you won't have any problems, but just remember to check it once it's all back together.

 

MP.

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The contacts on the flush switch might wear faster, I doubt it would be a big problem.

 

Note that the "cassette full" light is a LED and polarity sensitive too, as long as the cassette wasn't full or wasn't installed you won't have any problems, but just remember to check it once it's all back together.

 

MP.

 

Thanks for that - I will bear that in mind :excl:

 

Cheers

 

David

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