Battery Type Info Required

[Jon]

FOR ORIGINAL THREAD, SEE HERE

[weeble]

Thanks to all for the great replies. Going to be a bit awkward to respond with your replies in the old forum, but here goes.--- Big thumbs up with the new forum BTW Jon.

 

I agree that the leisure batteries are likely to be the ones that are of the incorrect type, and at 5 years old I think I'll just go ahead and replace them with 3 x 110 aHr blocks. Although I was surprised at the low £40 cost you quote David. When I was looking around few weeks back I was experiencing £55-60 ish, could you give us details of make/source.

Interesting tip about making the field connection; as I only just fit down the engine 'ole I'm not looking forward to that

 

Point taken about adding the 3rd battery might increase the capacity to the point where I won't need the additional controller; however I'm also interested in getting a fast recharge due to the fact that I live some distance from my boat and during the winter months I'll only be visiting for a few hours every 2-3 weeks or so to give her a quick run.

 

Fortunately the starter battery seems OK. Usually I let the pre-heaters run for 10-15 seconds and the engine turns over first go. Although I have noticed that the cranking speed is not that great. But there won't be room to parallel up one of the existing leisure batteries with the starter battery without extending the battery tray if I get three new leisure ones fitted.

 

Point about the splitting diode also taken DOR, but now comes the next question:

 

I have a dual alternator system but have not seen reference to the Sterling unit being able to take two inputs (unlike the Adverc which I believe I read will accept two alternators). If this assumption is true I would consider leaving the starting battery system entirely "as is" because it's performing satisfactorily, and just install the controller on the leisure charging circuit. This would obviate the need for a diode and the possible setbacks. Is this what you'd also do, or would you lash out the extra for the Adverc (assuming it does take two inputs).

 

Cheers.... mike

[John Orentas]

Thanks to all for the great replies. Going to be a bit awkward to respond with your replies in the old forum, but here goes.--- Big thumbs up with the new forum BTW Jon.

 

I agree that the leisure batteries are likely to be the ones that are of the incorrect type, and at 5 years old I think I'll just go ahead and replace them with 3 x 110 aHr blocks. Although I was surprised at the low £40 cost you quote David. When I was looking around  few weeks back I was experiencing £55-60 ish, could you give us details of make/source.

Interesting tip about making the field connection; as I only just fit down the engine 'ole I'm not looking forward to that 

 

Point taken about adding the 3rd battery might increase the capacity to the point where I won't need the additional controller; however I'm also interested in getting a fast recharge due to the fact that I live some distance from my boat and during the winter months I'll only be visiting for a few hours every 2-3 weeks or so to give her a quick run.

 

Fortunately the starter battery seems OK. Usually I let the pre-heaters run for 10-15 seconds and the engine turns over first go. Although I have noticed that the cranking speed is not that great. But there won't be room to parallel up one of the existing leisure batteries with the starter battery without extending the battery tray if I get three new leisure ones fitted.

 

Point about the splitting diode also taken DOR, but now comes the next question:

 

I have a dual alternator system but have not seen reference to the Sterling unit being able to take two inputs (unlike the Adverc which I believe I read will accept two alternators). If this assumption is true I would consider leaving the starting battery system entirely "as is" because it's performing satisfactorily, and just install the controller on the leisure charging circuit. This would obviate the need for a diode and the possible setbacks. Is this what you'd also do, or would you lash out the extra for the Adverc (assuming it does take two inputs).

 

Cheers.... mike

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[John Orentas]

FOR ORIGINAL THREAD, SEE HERE

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Mike.

 

I think you have answered your own question. With a dual alternator system you should not need a controller on the starter circuit, even if there were a dual controller available you would loose some of the advantage in that the total independance of each system would be lost.

 

Be wary about using diode type split charge systems, they will only work satisfactorarilly with an alternator with a 'sense' output.

 

For your batteries contact one of the larger caravan / motorhome accessory shops.

 

John Squeers

 

(I DON'T KNOW WHY MIKES THREAD HAS BEEN REPEATED, DID I CLICK ON THE WRONG BUTTON ?)

[weeble]

I agree John, but in the article I read I think the advantage being put over was that you could run both alternators at their current limit and therefore achieve an even higher potential current and thereby faster charge rate.

Also, thinking about it, provided the regulator would keep going with one failed alternator it's actually achieved system redundancy -- i.e. if one alternator failed the remaining one could continue to charge BOTH battery systems (through a splitting diode of course) although at a reduced rate.

I assume that each alternator had independent field regulation but with voltage sensing coming from a common point, otherwise you'd need some form of load balancing which would add a level of complexity.

As I say, this may or may not be valid for the Adverc controller or for some entirely different device. Friend of mine brought back loads of literature from the Southampton Boat show last month and I think it must have read it from that.

 

Cheers.... mike

[Guest]

John O

I am about to fit a split diode and did,t know about the sensing alternator. How do I tell which alternator mine is? It is a new vetus engine with 90a alternator if that is a clue. Thanks.

[Oliver]

John

 

The trick is not to click on the Repy" which appears at the end of each person's post but to go down to the bottom of the thread where there are two more Reply buttons. If you use one of those then you don't get the reply of the other person as a quote before your reply.

[John Orentas]

Stan.

 

In my view by far the better method is to use a split charge relay, but it must be controlled from the 'charge lamp' output from the alternator. You must also use wiring, and relay switching capacity to cover the 'worst case sonario'.

 

The circuitry must be capable of taking the current flow when a bank of fully charged batteries are connected to a bank of totally flat ones. It WILL happen one day.

 

In practise this means at least 10 mm cable and 75 amp rated relay. You can use perhaps 2 industrial relays wired in parallel with all the contact also wired in parallel. The relays sold for the job in motor accessory shops and chandlers aren't up to it.

 

As you have a new engine, think twice before fitting an alternator controller or delving into the entrails of your alternator to connect sensing conductors, some engine manufacturers have been claiming that you are in breach of the warranty conditions.

 

John Squeers

[John Orentas]

Mike.

 

The fact remains that if you have a gismo which is connected to, or controlling both alternators, if that contraption fails it could leave you with no charging capacity at all.

 

I don't see it as any great benefit to run your alternators or anything alse at full capacity for extended periods.

 

In my view the cooling of alternators in narrowboats is marginal to say the least, but I think that is a topic on it's own, possibly for another thread.

 

John Squeers.

[weeble]

Mike.

 

In my view the cooling of alternators in narrowboats is marginal to say the least, but I think that is a topic on it's own, possibly for another thread.

 

Yup! as with many things it's not a black and white issue John.

 

Jon wanted some new threads posting...... so here goes....

 

Cheers... mike

[dor]

Now lets see if I can get the hang of this new forum ......

 

If you have twin alternators, I would really question whether you need an external regulator on your starter battery. Check what the output voltage of your new alternator is also, as there may be limited benefit.