How to remove tiller?

[tcp13]

I'm a new liveaboard working through some DIY renovations, and I could use some advice on this project...

 

The pre-purchase survey stated: "The top bearing was a flanged nylon bearing; it was in poor condition, and it is advised to replace it." This made sense (as the tiller can be wiggled horizontally about half an inch in any direction) and sounded like a simple fix. I'm picturing something like this which I just swap in based on size?

 

The trouble is I can't seem to remove the tiller!

 

 

With much effort, I was able to remove the 2 green bolts on the sides. I've also stripped the paint on top to clear (what I assume is) the groove where the swan neck and rudder stock meet. I've doused it in penetrating oil and tried shocking it a few times with a lump hammer to the sides. It's still stuck - does lift up a few inches, but the stock and rudder come with it.

 

Any suggestions? I don't have access to any sophisticated equipment, and this is being done while in the water (I did tie a rope through the top hole of the rudder for fear of losing it if unseated).

Edited January 18 by tcp13

[Tony Brooks]

It looks as if the rudder stock is parallel, so it is probably rusted, so plenty of penetrating oil (no WD40) applied every half hour or so. Then two metal blocs/wedges so you can lift the whole assembly a perhaps 6mm (not too far, or you will lift the stock out of the skeg) and wedge the raised boss against the bearing housing. Someone holds a soft metal drift against the top of the stock while you try to drive it down with a sledgehammer - or try using a decent puller. 

 

I fear it won't shift, so try a large blowlamp or oxyacetylene torch around the boss, but then you will have to repaint it.

 

When it starts to move you may have to lift a little more and rewedge & repeat.

[BEngo]

In extremis, split the collar with a small angle griinder and a zip disc.  Then tighten the two screws hard and release them before trying Tony's approach.

 

You will need to find someone to weld  up the collar before refitting it.

 

N

[Guyon]

Having spent a career messing around with rusty industrial equipment (fertiliser plants and animal feed are very harsh environments for instance) I found that the only non-destructive surefire way to get things apart was hydraulic pullers and possibly releasing agent like plus gas or a blowtorch. once you have the tiller arm off you could still have the same problem with the bearing. 
I know that isn’t what people want to hear, but sometimes it is less painful in the long run.

 

 

 

 

[magnetman]

Something like this after taking the bolts out.

 

https://tedbartinkerhire.co.uk/product/bearing-puller/

Might be best to get someone in to do it. 

 

 

Or ask a Boatyard. They might have a heavy puller for propellers. 

 

 

I seem to remember a topic about this where someone had cut through the stock in the gap then welded it up again after doing the bearing.  Not a good idea as it weakens the stock.

 

So definitely don't be tempted by this easy option.

 

. 

 

 

It would be quick for a welder with a grinder but a bit nasty. 

 

 

Edited January 18 by magnetman

[ditchcrawler]

1 hour ago, tcp13 said:

I'm a new liveaboard working through some DIY renovations, and I could use some advice on this project...

 

The pre-purchase survey stated: "The top bearing was a flanged nylon bearing; it was in poor condition, and it is advised to replace it." This made sense (as the tiller can be wiggled horizontally about half an inch in any direction) and sounded like a simple fix. I'm picturing something like this which I just swap in based on size?

 

The trouble is I can't seem to remove the tiller!

 

 

With much effort, I was able to remove the 2 green bolts on the sides. I've also stripped the paint on top to clear (what I assume is) the groove where the swan neck and rudder stock meet. I've doused it in penetrating oil and tried shocking it a few times with a lump hammer to the sides. It's still stuck - does lift up a few inches, but the stock and rudder come with it.

 

Any suggestions? I don't have access to any sophisticated equipment, and this is being done while in the water (I did tie a rope through the top hole of the rudder for fear of losing it if unseated).

You say one like this, is yours exactly like that ? most are on a taper.

[PaulJ]

Everything said above and also give it a good grunt sideways with the rudder fully over on the stops. Probably wont help but you never know it just might help break it free..

[agg221]

Whereabouts are you? On the offchance that you are somewhere on a reasonable route between Essex and Market Drayton then if you haven't solved it before next weekend then I do have a suitable bearing puller (10 ton hydraulic) and a MAPP torch, which might do the trick. It won't take long with the right kit, or it just won't work at all, in which case you will end up cutting it as above.

 

Alec

[Tony Brooks]

I am a bit wary about the possibility of using a puller unless the OP can assure us that the image is exactly the same as his, or it is his boat. The way the swan neck was shaped on our boat meant it was impossible to get a puller in place, the backward sloping part of the "upright part" fouled even a small puller so it was impossible to get a straight pull on it.

[magnetman]

7 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

I am a bit wary about the possibility of using a puller unless the OP can assure us that the image is exactly the same as his, or it is his boat. The way the swan neck was shaped on our boat meant it was impossible to get a puller in place, the backward sloping part of the "upright part" fouled even a small puller so it was impossible to get a straight pull on it.

 

I think it is his Boat.

 

2 hours ago, tcp13 said:

!

 

 

With much effort, I was able to remove the 2 green bolts on the sides. 

It's definitely his Boat Tony.

 

 

[Tony Brooks]

23 minutes ago, magnetman said:

 

I think it is his Boat.

 

It's definitely his Boat Tony.

 

 

 

Well, "I'm picturing something like this" seems rather less than definitive, as Brian suggest with his question, so I thought it best to post a warning that a puller MIGHT not be usable.

Edited January 18 by Tony Brooks

[tcp13]

 This is starting to sound like it's not a DIY job! Many thanks for the ideas - I'll keep trying at it.

 

Yes, the photo is of my boat. The "something like this" is a link to the nylon bush part I think I need.

 

47 minutes ago, agg221 said:

Whereabouts are you? On the offchance that you are somewhere on a reasonable route between Essex and Market Drayton then if you haven't solved it before next weekend then I do have a suitable bearing puller (10 ton hydraulic) and a MAPP torch, which might do the trick. It won't take long with the right kit, or it just won't work at all, in which case you will end up cutting it as above.

 

That's a very kind offer, Alec!! I'm at Barton Maria currently. If that's feasible, send me a direct message here (I'm not allowed to initiate since I'm too new on the forum) and I'll give you my mobile number to coordinate?

Edited January 18 by tcp13

[magnetman]

11 minutes ago, tcp13 said:

 This is starting to sound like it's not a DIY job! Many thanks for the ideas - I'll keep trying at it.

 

Yes, the photo is of my boat. The "something like this" is a link to the nylon bush part I think I need.

 

 

That's a very kind offer, Alec!! I'm at Barton Maria currently. If that's feasible, send me a direct message here (I'm not allowed to initiate since I'm too new on the forum) and I'll give you my mobile number to coordinate?

I think it's 5:posts so you can just add two or three more short ones and that should open the message option.

 

When you said the bolts were difficult presumably they came out without breaking off. 

 

 

 

18 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Well, "I'm picturing something like this" seems rather less than definitive, as Brian suggest with his question, so I thought it best to post a warning that a puller MIGHT not be usable.

That was about the bearing.

[matty40s]

The other way to do this without lifting tiller out of cup is to measure the distance between top of rudder and bottom of counter and jam a piece of wood(with a long piece of string or rope securing) in the gap so the rudder cannot lift when you are trying to move tiller. If you do this when the rudder is at its left or right limit against the counter, the full lever of the tiller can be used to free up the joint( after a good dose of penetrating oil.

Edited January 18 by matty40s

[tcp13]

45 minutes ago, matty40s said:

jam a piece of wood(with a long piece of string or rope securing) in the gap so the rudder cannot lift

Oh, I like that idea!

 

  

48 minutes ago, magnetman said:

When you said the bolts were difficult presumably they came out without breaking off. 

Yes, though a bit bent now, so probably best to replace them once I'm ready to reassemble.

[magnetman]

1 hour ago, matty40s said:

The other way to do this without lifting tiller out of cup is to measure the distance between top of tiller and bottom of counter ...

Top of the rudder blade. 

 

 

[David Mack]

22 minutes ago, tcp13 said:

Yes, though a bit bent now, so probably best to replace them once I'm ready to reassemble.

And use shorter bolts so they dont stick out so much. Or use socket head grub screws for a much neater finish.

[magnetman]

1 hour ago, David Mack said:

And use shorter bolts so they dont stick out so much. Or use socket head grub screws for a much neater finish.

Yes.

 

Using horizontal bolts like that is a bit of a bodge way to do it. Bit of a risk of it rotating unless there is a corresponding hole or a flat on he rudder stock. Maybe there is but they might just be bearing against the side. If they were and the parts are forcibly separated it might be a bit awkward when reassembling to get the correct tightness. 

 

I guess it's just corrosion but that area there looks a bit suspicious. Almost as if someone has done something to try to stop it tending to rotate. It looks a bit like two drilled holes. 

 

 

 

 

[agg221]

For the sake of completeness, there was enough clearance to remove the swan neck using a 10T hydraulic bearing puller and a MAPP torch.

 

Alec

[Jen-in-Wellies]

On 18/01/2026 at 20:06, magnetman said:

On 18/01/2026 at 19:53, tcp13 said:

I think it's 5:posts so you can just add two or three more short ones and that should open the message option

Ten posts now. Blame all the bots and spammers in the world trying to join the forum. Or so it seems to us moderators. 

[tcp13]

4 hours ago, agg221 said:

For the sake of completeness, there was enough clearance to remove the swan neck using a 10T hydraulic bearing puller and a MAPP torch.

 

Alec

You forgot to mention the most important step... tea was consumed!! It was lovely to meet you, Alec - thanks again for your kindness!

 

With the swan neck off, I was able to unbolt the bearing. I'm now just trying to convince the nylon bit to leave its housing. It seems to be intact, but hopefully replacing it fixes the wobble.

 

[BEngo]

Thread a coarse hacksaw blade through the centre and make a couple of cuts about 10mm apart. 

Saw slowly so the nylon does not melt.

 

Lever out the small piece and collapse the big bit inwards.

The bush itself may be black nylon or ot may be MoS2 loaded.

.

 

 

[hughc]

For anyone faced with a similar problem  I have found that Liquid Moly Pro-Line Injector and glowplug dismantling fluid is highly effective. Whilst working on  a variety of vintage engines , some of which were in a very rusted condition , I have used a variety of methods. Prior to using Liquid Moly the best commercial product has been Plus Gas but this is better. I have no connection with this company other than has a retail customer but I am very, very impressed with this product. However it's not cheap.

 

[ditchcrawler]

4 hours ago, hughc said:

For anyone faced with a similar problem  I have found that Liquid Moly Pro-Line Injector and glowplug dismantling fluid is highly effective. Whilst working on  a variety of vintage engines , some of which were in a very rusted condition , I have used a variety of methods. Prior to using Liquid Moly the best commercial product has been Plus Gas but this is better. I have no connection with this company other than has a retail customer but I am very, very impressed with this product. However it's not cheap.

 

Not that bad at a tenner, I will get a tin and soak my tiller, I have tried soaking in plusgass but that didn't get down the taper