My new old Narrowboat...

[Shandybass]

So, after receiving (more) good advice from the members on here, I'm starting a new thread for my new boat. 

[A quick precé: I originally bought a different boat, an old David Piper shell, with SABB engine, but for various reasons swapped it for this boat, which is (hopefully) a bit more like what I needed/wanted].

So, here's what I know/have been told:

she's a 38' Cruiser Stern

Built in Bath in 1978

No overplating, 1/2" baseplate, small amount of pit welding done on the rattling near the bow, 

Belonged to an elderly gentleman, who had her moored for the last 30 yrs in Stratford-upon-Avon.

His mooring bills weren't paid for some time, so the marina stopped pumping out his engine bilge for him, and she eventually sunk at the stern. And was then sold to pay his bill as per the mooring contract!

Looking at a search of the registration number, it seems it was extended from 33' to 38', and was a Brummagen Boat - not sure if that's a builder or an operator?

From the interior, it looks like the stern was completely underwater, with the water level lapping at the bottom of the bow doors.

Beta 25 marine engine, cooled via a mudbox.

The guys from Redhill that brought her up after refloating put a new starter and filters on, checked the engine over for water ingress etc, and got her running. But halfway back to Redhill the diesel ran out... 

I got it turning over last week, but it wouldn't catch, so I am going to bleed the fuel system through next week.

I am planning to get the engine running and sail her back to the Calder and Hebble, where I live, before refitting as necessary, using a mix of new stuff and whatever I can cannibalise from my caravan, which we no longer use.

Pictures to follow:

 

[Kingdom Isambard Brunel]

That's a challenge for you then!  Did it run out of fuel or is there water in the tank? You need to get that tank completely empty and clean to be sure else you will have diesel bug problems for ever and a day.

All the best!

[Arthur Marshall]

That's an old Villager Puffin stove, same as mine. Just thought I'd mention it.

[Shandybass]

16 minutes ago, Arthur Marshall said:

That's an old Villager Puffin stove, same as mine. Just thought I'd mention it.

No thats great, thank you. I was wondering what make it was

[matty40s]

Yes, with that nose it is a Brummagen boat, there is a fellow owners club somewhere....

And a good thread on here.

 

 

[MtB]

27 minutes ago, Arthur Marshall said:

That's an old Villager Puffin stove, same as mine. Just thought I'd mention it.

 

 

Really? I thought it might have been a brand new one!
 

  

[matty40s]

...be warned....that is the Field of Dreams at Red Hill...

....you can check out any time, but you can never leave....

[MtB]

5 minutes ago, matty40s said:

...be warned....that is the Field of Dreams at Red Hill...

....you can check out any time, but you can never leave....

 

 

Field of Broken Dreams, Shirley....

[merline]

5 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

 

Field of Broken Dreams, Shirley....

I did point this out on the other thread....😁

[Shandybass]

24 minutes ago, matty40s said:

Yes, with that nose it is a Brummagen boat, there is a fellow owners club somewhere....

And a good thread on here.

 

Thanks, I already saw the second one, and I've seen all stuff about brumtugs, but that's all, so this is really useful

 

14 minutes ago, matty40s said:

...be warned....that is the Field of Dreams at Red Hill...

....you can check out any time, but you can never leave....

There's actually some really good people down there, and a bar with greasy overalls great craic, haha. I went for a dawn wander around the field on Tuesday morning,(with my first hangover in about ten years) and it does feel like an elephants' graveyard, but I love it. Some of the crumbling hulks are actually wood built, and some are of indiscernible build - being entirely consumed by brambles. So evocative

[TheBiscuits]

On 21/08/2025 at 10:59, Shandybass said:

and it does feel like an elephants' graveyard, but I love it.

 

Hah.  Told you so.

 

 

[jonathanA]

looks like you have your work cut out there....  🙂

 

good luck hope and keep posting progress on here please !

 

I was intrigued by these fuses - you should be able to sell them to the steam punk fraternity, if  frankenstein doesn't want them back !

 

And what is going on with the nearly transparent blacking ?

 

 

 

[NB Saturn]

32 minutes ago, jonathanA said:

looks like you have your work cut out there....  🙂

 

good luck hope and keep posting progress on here please !

 

I was intrigued by these fuses - you should be able to sell them to the steam punk fraternity, if  frankenstein doesn't want them back !

 

And what is going on with the nearly transparent blacking ?

 

 

 

 

I was trying to decide if those were fuseholders, or something horrible lurking beneath gaffer tape.

[Tony Brooks]

I thought that were just Wylex type rewirable domestic fuses without their box and cover. Fairly normal for a boat of that age.

[jonathanA]

1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

I thought that were just Wylex type rewirable domestic fuses without their box and cover. Fairly normal for a boat of that age.

I don't think its an old wylex type domestic consumer unit with out the cover, but rather individual fuseholders either rewirable or possibly 1.25" glass type fuses. Can't remember who would have made them years ago, possibly wylex, MK or maybe Bulgin.  A fairly rare sight these days i would say.  

 

It was a slightly tongue in cheek comment, no offence meant for Shandybass 

[Shandybass]

None taken, but thanks. 

I will get around to having a look but I've been prioritising the jobs. 

So far I've put the hopper windows back in temporarily to keep the weather out, put the potholes back in temporarily (brass set screws on order) and I had to have a trip to midland chandlers to buy 3 new porthole glass panes. (Thanks to Matt at Willington Midland Chandlers for all your assistance).

While there I picked up a new tin of 2 pack Jotun - the swim is still bare metal and the rest, as sometime mentioned looks very thin.

 

I have yet to locate the original vents, but "someone knows someone who thinks he knows where they are" , so hopefully that will be the cabin weatherproof on the next week or two when I've fitted the windows properly - I'm thinking sikaflex? Or should I use CT1?

 

Then I'm going to dig out the engine bilge so my feet aren't stunning into the stinking mud while I try to bleed the fuel system though empty the separators and rig up a bypass to an oil drum full of water for the raw water pump, before trying to get the engine to catch. 

I thought I would just install new starter system electrics, so I know what's what, rather than trying to figure out someone else's system and identify what cable is going where ..

I have new filters, vee belt and impeller to fit also.

Assuming I get the engine going I then need to test the alternator output.

I might fit a larger propeller - I downloaded the chart from beta marine today, but haven't had a chance to look yet. 

 

After that I need to clean it the bathroom and see if I can get the pumps toilet to work, although I might wait until I'm lifted in, so I can pump out the tank - also I believe it uses raw water to flush.

 

I've the ignition panel to sort out - got a new battery and key coming, and the instruments and starting signal need connecting to the engine.

Other 12v electrics I need to fit are navigation and tunnel lights and horn.

 

Then I have my ridiculously large solar panel to fit - anyone know what the name of the black plastic handled M8 screw is that fits through the tilting bracket into the actual panel frame? I've got a solar controller to fit and the leisure batteries to fit and connect up to the solar and to the alternator. 

That's roughly the order I'm which I'll be doing things - I'll probably bypass them old cause panel for now, but I would actually like to include it and use it if possible.

10 hours ago, jonathanA said:

 !

 

I was intrigued by these fuses - you should be able to sell them to the steam punk fraternity, if  frankenstein doesn't want them back !

 

 

Here's a better picture of the fuse panel.

What is with the round plug pin holes?

[Tony Brooks]

9 hours ago, Shandybass said:

'm thinking sikaflex? Or should I use CT1?

 

I would use neither. You can get either close cell, self-adhesive foam neoprene tape or mastic tape. I think Midland stock the mastic stuff.

 

The type of sealer that you mention will make it difficult to get the item out/off if/when it eventually develops a leak.

Edited August 23, 2025 by Tony Brooks

[merline]

9 hours ago, Shandybass said:

None taken, but thanks. 

I will get around to having a look but I've been prioritising the jobs. 

So far I've put the hopper windows back in temporarily to keep the weather out, put the potholes back in temporarily (brass set screws on order) and I had to have a trip to midland chandlers to buy 3 new porthole glass panes. (Thanks to Matt at Willington Midland Chandlers for all your assistance).

While there I picked up a new tin of 2 pack Jotun - the swim is still bare metal and the rest, as sometime mentioned looks very thin.

 

I have yet to locate the original vents, but "someone knows someone who thinks he knows where they are" , so hopefully that will be the cabin weatherproof on the next week or two when I've fitted the windows properly - I'm thinking sikaflex? Or should I use CT1?

 

Then I'm going to dig out the engine bilge so my feet aren't stunning into the stinking mud while I try to bleed the fuel system though empty the separators and rig up a bypass to an oil drum full of water for the raw water pump, before trying to get the engine to catch. 

I thought I would just install new starter system electrics, so I know what's what, rather than trying to figure out someone else's system and identify what cable is going where ..

I have new filters, vee belt and impeller to fit also.

Assuming I get the engine going I then need to test the alternator output.

I might fit a larger propeller - I downloaded the chart from beta marine today, but haven't had a chance to look yet. 

 

After that I need to clean it the bathroom and see if I can get the pumps toilet to work, although I might wait until I'm lifted in, so I can pump out the tank - also I believe it uses raw water to flush.

 

I've the ignition panel to sort out - got a new battery and key coming, and the instruments and starting signal need connecting to the engine.

Other 12v electrics I need to fit are navigation and tunnel lights and horn.

 

Then I have my ridiculously large solar panel to fit - anyone know what the name of the black plastic handled M8 screw is that fits through the tilting bracket into the actual panel frame? I've got a solar controller to fit and the leisure batteries to fit and connect up to the solar and to the alternator. 

That's roughly the order I'm which I'll be doing things - I'll probably bypass them old cause panel for now, but I would actually like to include it and use it if possible.

Here's a better picture of the fuse panel.

What is with the round plug pin holes?

Possibly a 12v socket 

Was once common to use these 

[Shandybass]

1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

I would use neither. You can get either close cell, self-adhesive foam neoprene tape or mastic tape. I think Midland stock the mastic stuff.

 

The type of sealer that you mention will make it difficult to get the item out/off if/when it eventually develops a leak.

Ok thanks. Just to be clear, I'm going to have to put some sort of caulking or sealant in the 2 - 3mm between the edge of each round piece of glass and the inside edge of the brass porthole frame to stop it rattling around, and also some sort of sealant between the cabin side and the flat of the porthole frame.

You are saying that I shouldn't use CT1 or Sikaflex for either? 

Also it occurred to me that I might want to put some sealant in each tapped bolthole into the cabin side as I screw them in, as they fully penetrate the metal.

 

Edited August 23, 2025 by Shandybass

[Kingdom Isambard Brunel]

Mmmm. Slidelock cartridge fuse holders, not seen those for a long time. I bet that they are corroded inside but still work.

Obviously owned by someone who had not a clue,  "Battery Isolating VALVE"???   " Shower plug" ???

The volt meter is knackered!

Edited August 23, 2025 by Kingdom Isambard Brunel

[Shandybass]

1 hour ago, merline said:

Possibly a 12v socket 

Was once common to use these 

Thanks. I thought it might be, but it's just the 'archaicness' of them that I was amused by, I guess. 

I would actually like to use the fuseboard if I can get good contracts still. I do want to clean all those specks of paint spray off. They are even worse on the guage and starter panel (pic attached) - can anyone advise a easy to get the paint off that won't abrade the plastics and metals too much?

6 minutes ago, Kingdom Isambard Brunel said:

Mmmm. Slidelock cartridge fuse holders, not seen those for a long time. I bet that they are corroded inside but still work.

Obviously owned by someone who had not a clue,  "Battery Isolating VALVE"???   " Shower plug" ???

The volt meter is knackered!

Yeah ,- I like the retro feel and look of them. 

I wonder if they would meet BSS standard, if I Emery the contacts and obviously replace all the ring/spade connectors and wire loops?

Edited August 23, 2025 by Shandybass

[alan_fincher]

On 21/08/2025 at 10:14, Arthur Marshall said:

That's an old Villager Puffin stove, same as mine. Just thought I'd mention it.

 

You may mention it, but what is pictured is surely a Villager Heron rather than a Villager Puffin?

[David Mack]

24 minutes ago, Kingdom Isambard Brunel said:

Mmmm. Slidelock cartridge fuse holders, not seen those for a long time. I bet that they are corroded inside but still work.

Obviously owned by someone who had not a clue,  "Battery Isolating VALVE"???   " Shower plug" ???

The volt meter is knackered!

But all the screw slots are in line!

[TheBiscuits]

22 minutes ago, Shandybass said:

I thought it might be, but it's just the 'archaicness' of them that I was amused by, I guess. 

 

That's exactly why people use them!  It stops other people plugging hairdryers into them ...

[Shandybass]

35 minutes ago, alan_fincher said:

 

You may mention it, but what is pictured is surely a Villager Heron rather than a Villager Puffin?

Interesting. [EDIT : it must be an old-style Heron, the catch is on the top]

But this brings me to a confession, and then a question...

 

So, after an early morning walk around the field of dreams to clear a thick head, thanks to the bar at Redhill marina the night before (God only knows how I didn't break my neck climbing that rickety ladder platform into the well deck that night - I have a vague memory of it swaying wildly left and right as I tried to step over the gunnel..  ...I discovered next morning that one of the 4 feet is missing it's last 5 inches).

Anyway, my socks and shoes got wet from the long, dewy grass so I thought I would see what state the subs interior was in. 

The door catch was stuck fast, so I put a shifter on it and promptly sheared it off.

I will drill it and screw something in to get the catch turned, but I need to know: which way does it turn to release? 

Is it the usual "rightly tighty, lefty loosey' arrangement? Or is it the other way round, which would explain the shearing.

I have to choose between a normal set screw, with a right hand thread, or my left-hand threaded stud extractors...

 

Edited August 23, 2025 by Shandybass