Braunston to London - Summer trip

[fer]

Hello all,
First time down the grand union and into London. And realising how little knowledge I have about that area, but very much looking forward to venture that way. Any recommendations most appreciated, both for nice places to stop while on the way, as well as interesting places to moor and explore while in London.

 

Since I work, I cruise during weekends and stay put during the week. So I can move a fair bit from place to place (16 to 20 hours) and I will ideally stop at places that are nice to explore and where I can moor for 5 days. As an example, Stone and Birmingham were great last year. Great atmosphere around the canal. 

 

Anyhow, canalplan suggest stopping in Leighton Buzzard, then West Watford, and then around Candem. Another option is South Milton Keynes,  Berkhamsted, Southall. I don't know any of those places, any to favour or avoid? Any other suggestions will be great too. 
And then... London is the big unknown. I guess I will be booking visitor moorings for the first week to make life easier. Then who knows, are there nice neighbourly places that I shouldn't miss? should I venture into the Lee, is that an easy cruise?

 

As you can tell, I'm a bit lost here..
 
 

[Tim Lewis]

16 hours ago, fer said:

Hello all,
First time down the grand union and into London. And realising how little knowledge I have about that area, but very much looking forward to venture that way. Any recommendations most appreciated, both for nice places to stop while on the way, as well as interesting places to moor and explore while in London.

 

Since I work, I cruise during weekends and stay put during the week. So I can move a fair bit from place to place (16 to 20 hours) and I will ideally stop at places that are nice to explore and where I can moor for 5 days. As an example, Stone and Birmingham were great last year. Great atmosphere around the canal. 

 

Anyhow, canalplan suggest stopping in Leighton Buzzard, then West Watford, and then around Candem. Another option is South Milton Keynes,  Berkhamsted, Southall. I don't know any of those places, any to favour or avoid? Any other suggestions will be great too. 
And then... London is the big unknown. I guess I will be booking visitor moorings for the first week to make life easier. Then who knows, are there nice neighbourly places that I shouldn't miss? should I venture into the Lee, is that an easy cruise?

 

As you can tell, I'm a bit lost here..
 
 

you will be luck to get a mooring around Camden!

[David Mack]

Anywhere north of Cowley Lock is fine to moor

and leave the boat for a few days. I wouldn't recommend Southall, although you do see some boats there. Next safe stop is probably Little Venice or Paddington Basin where you take your chance on a visitor mooring, or use the bookable moorings.

If you've come all the way from Braunston then a few extra locks to get to the Lee via either the Hertford Union Canal or Limehouse Basin shouldn't be a problem.

If you have time it's worth doing the Bow Back Rivers and cruising up the Lee to Hertford and Stort to Bishops Stortford.

[IanD]

There a plenty of places between Southall and Kensal Green where boats gather moored on the towpath, usually near transport links, and I assume these are reasonably safe. From Kensal Green on it's end-to-end boats...

[David Mack]

At one time I would have said the Black Horse at Greenford was a safe spot. But as the pub is now a burnt out shell, it has lost its appeal.

Yes there are other places between Southall and Kensall Green where you can moor and you would probably be fine. But many of the boats that are there are scruffy, and don't inspire the sort of confidence that I think a first timer boater in London (which I assume the OP is) would be looking for.

[junior]

As others have suggested, once near London inside the M25 you have to put a bit more though into your mooring places. I've stayed at West Drayton and Bulls Bridge (your approach route to London) without issues before. Once you turn left at Bulls Bridge to head into London it's a bit more interesting.

 

If you're happy to do bookable paid for moorings you've got Willowtree Marina or Highline Yachting at Northolt. That would be my first 'London' mooring, although it's on the outskirts. If you fancied stopping in this area but didn't want to pay/book, then you could take a chance of getting a space by the Willowtree park in Yeading. It's quite pleasant and on the offside, but is a popular spot. 

 

After that I'd be travelling right into London itself and not stopping before. There's bookable CRT moorings at Rembrandt Gardens which is right in the middle of Little Venice and a lovely place to stop. You could take a chance and get one of the free visitor moorings at the end of the Paddington Basin, but this is always a popular spot. 

 

Once moving on from there is go to the bookable mooring at the Canal Museum in Kings Cross. I think it's overnight only, but is safe and secure and guarantees you a place to stop. 

 

You could then make your next move from there to Limehouse Marina where there is a free visitor mooring along the outer wall where you could stop a few days. 

 

From there you can head up the River Lea. It'll be nose to tail boats for miles, so I'd just aim to get to somewhere like Cheshunt where it's a bit quieter and safer. If you're going this far I'd recommend going all the way up the River Stort if time allows. 

 

On the way back you could always repeat your journey and mooring places, but you'll have your own ideas by then as you'll have seen it all on your way through.

[magnetman]

1 minute ago, junior said:

 

You could then make your next move from there to Limehouse Marina where there is a free visitor mooring along the outer wall where you could stop a few days. 

 

 

Just out of interest the wall opposite Limehouse marina is now managed by Aquavista who run the marina as a 24hr mooring only. It is a slightly contentious issue as this is a CRT asset but the Aquavista do send staff out and get people to move. 

 

You could stay there a few days but will get hassled. 

 

Alternatively go round the corner into the refugee camp but bolt everything down as there are hardcore tea leaves don't ask me how I know but let's just say they -will- nick it. Don't ask me how I know this. It was not just once it was numerous times over a number of years on different Boats. They will nick everything. 

 

 

 

 

[Wafi]

I can't comment on the desirability of mooring around Southall, but if you do find yourself there I'd thoroughly recommend a stroll along the Uxbridge Road (heading East from the canal), especially if you like Asian food. Very lively/vibrant area, and a bit different to your typical UK high street.

[magnetman]

I have had 3 bicycles stolen, generator, entire inside of Boat stripped of valuable objects, inflatable dinghy stolen, outboard motor off another dinghy and various other things nicked on Limehouse cut. I even know someone who lifted his bike off the Boat and while he turned around to lock the door someone had already ridden off on the bike. Mad shit round there literally bolt it down. 

4 minutes ago, Wafi said:

I can't comment on the desirability of mooring around Southall, but if you do find yourself there I'd thoroughly recommend a stroll along the Uxbridge Road (heading East from the canal), especially if you like Asian food. Very lively/vibrant area, and a bit different to your typical UK high street.

 

Not many moorings around Southall and it is a terrible hellhole but a spot  I could tolerate when I had the misfortune to be there was opposite the permanent moorings at the beginning of the Paddington arm between Bulls bridge and the GWR rail bridge. 

Actually not a bad spot there. Also above Norwood top locks there are mooring rings but it's a bit shit there. 

 

 

[Mike Tee]

We have stopped at the  museum moorings a couple of times - land line available and very quiet and secure.

[Jonny P]

I’ve done this journey over the last week.

 

Moored at Weedon visitor moorings, Great Linford visitor moorings, on rings between bridges 129 and 130 at Marsworth, Apsley Mill visitor moorings, Cowley South visitor moorings and then into Paddington basin on a paid mooring. I considered a shopping stop at both Bulls Bridge and at Uxbridge Road, Southall where there were spaces on the visitor moorings although in the end I didn’t stop until at Alperton Sainsbury’s visitor moorings. Again there was space on rings. But all of those stops were just for one night.

 

The only visitor mooring I saw full was the Swan & Bottle at Uxbridge which is supposedly a 24 hour mooring. It’s a bit odd that all the other VMs around London are 7 or 14 days. Although if they aren’t enforced it’s irrelevant.

 

I wouldn’t leave my boat anywhere between Cowley and London. Didn’t much fancy leaving someone else’s expensive boat for long just to go shopping.

 

As stated above you can find a perfectly decent spot to moor - on stakes - at Old Oak albeit it might be a bit noisy from HS2 work but then there’s nothing until above Tottenham lock unless you pay for it or get lucky.

I went direct from Paddington to Waltham Abbey and then on to my destination at Roydon.

 

The Lee is also pretty grim until Enfield so if you go up there head to the top of both the Lee and Stort to make it worthwhile.

 

You may also struggle to get a decent spot for a longer duration at some places on the GU.

 

Edited June 5 by Jonny P

[Tim Lewis]

4 hours ago, Mike Tee said:

We have stopped at the  museum moorings a couple of times - land line available and very quiet and secure.

Electrical hook up rather than landline 😀

[fer]

Blimey, thank you very much all for all the great information. It sounds a bit grim on a first read, but I'm sure there will be some positives in there too!

So many places and names I don't know, I will need some time to digest it all.

Plan is to leave Braunston tomorrow after work and do locks and tunnel. Saturday forecast is a bit wet, so lets see how that works out. So likely to stop somewhere in Milton Keynes for the week. I will then have plenty of time to reread and plan the next couple of stops.

Looks like booking moorings in London is the way to go. And avoid Southall at all cost!

 

[fer]

Hello all,
Great start of the trip. Shared Buckby and Stoke Bruerne locks with a great friendly bunch in a hire boat. Got soaked both inside Blisworth tunnel and outside of it. And merrily made my way to Leighton Buzzard where a free space at Linslade visitor moorings was waiting for me. 7 days mooring, perfect.
Even shared part of the trip with a friendly duck!

 

On 05/06/2025 at 12:00, David Mack said:

Anywhere north of Cowley Lock is fine to moor

and leave the boat for a few days. I wouldn't recommend Southall, although you do see some boats there. Next safe stop is probably Little Venice or Paddington Basin where you take your chance on a visitor mooring, or use the bookable moorings.

If you've come all the way from Braunston then a few extra locks to get to the Lee via either the Hertford Union Canal or Limehouse Basin shouldn't be a problem.

If you have time it's worth doing the Bow Back Rivers and cruising up the Lee to Hertford and Stort to Bishops Stortford.

Thank you, hopefully Watford should be fine then, nice place to stop?  I work from the boat, so not planning on leaving the boat unattended unless to go out walking, pub meal, shopping etc. No first time boater, but first time in London.

 

On 05/06/2025 at 13:12, junior said:

As others have suggested, once near London inside the M25 you have to put a bit more though into your mooring places. I've stayed at West Drayton and Bulls Bridge (your approach route to London) without issues before. Once you turn left at Bulls Bridge to head into London it's a bit more interesting.

 

If you're happy to do bookable paid for moorings you've got Willowtree Marina or Highline Yachting at Northolt. That would be my first 'London' mooring, although it's on the outskirts. If you fancied stopping in this area but didn't want to pay/book, then you could take a chance of getting a space by the Willowtree park in Yeading. It's quite pleasant and on the offside, but is a popular spot. 

 

After that I'd be travelling right into London itself and not stopping before. There's bookable CRT moorings at Rembrandt Gardens which is right in the middle of Little Venice and a lovely place to stop. You could take a chance and get one of the free visitor moorings at the end of the Paddington Basin, but this is always a popular spot. 

 

Once moving on from there is go to the bookable mooring at the Canal Museum in Kings Cross. I think it's overnight only, but is safe and secure and guarantees you a place to stop. 

 

You could then make your next move from there to Limehouse Marina where there is a free visitor mooring along the outer wall where you could stop a few days. 

 

From there you can head up the River Lea. It'll be nose to tail boats for miles, so I'd just aim to get to somewhere like Cheshunt where it's a bit quieter and safer. If you're going this far I'd recommend going all the way up the River Stort if time allows. 

 

On the way back you could always repeat your journey and mooring places, but you'll have your own ideas by then as you'll have seen it all on your way through.

Thanks a lot. Booking sounds the way to go. At least on my way into London. Then, as you say, I can risk it on my way back, when I get a feeling about the place. Thanks for the recommendation about Rembrandt Gardens. Are the King Cross Museum moorings the Eco-Mooring Treaty St ones in CART web? Moorings are on the pricy side but hey ho, it is London after all.

 

On 05/06/2025 at 14:26, Jonny P said:

I’ve done this journey over the last week.

 

Moored at Weedon visitor moorings, Great Linford visitor moorings, on rings between bridges 129 and 130 at Marsworth, Apsley Mill visitor moorings, Cowley South visitor moorings and then into Paddington basin on a paid mooring. I considered a shopping stop at both Bulls Bridge and at Uxbridge Road, Southall where there were spaces on the visitor moorings although in the end I didn’t stop until at Alperton Sainsbury’s visitor moorings. Again there was space on rings. But all of those stops were just for one night.

 

The only visitor mooring I saw full was the Swan & Bottle at Uxbridge which is supposedly a 24 hour mooring. It’s a bit odd that all the other VMs around London are 7 or 14 days. Although if they aren’t enforced it’s irrelevant.

 

I wouldn’t leave my boat anywhere between Cowley and London. Didn’t much fancy leaving someone else’s expensive boat for long just to go shopping.

 

As stated above you can find a perfectly decent spot to moor - on stakes - at Old Oak albeit it might be a bit noisy from HS2 work but then there’s nothing until above Tottenham lock unless you pay for it or get lucky.

I went direct from Paddington to Waltham Abbey and then on to my destination at Roydon.

 

The Lee is also pretty grim until Enfield so if you go up there head to the top of both the Lee and Stort to make it worthwhile.

 

You may also struggle to get a decent spot for a longer duration at some places on the GU.

 

Fantastic. Great to hear how other boaters tackled the same trip. Seems that stopping for one week in London and then heading to the Lee and Stort is the way to go. Did you find the rivers easy to navigate? are there moorings opportunities for more than overnight stops? 

 

Thanks all for your replies.

 

[Mike Tee]

The museum mooring is in Battlebridge basin, as far as I am aware nothing to do with C&RT. Ring the museum to book.

[fer]

31 minutes ago, Mike Tee said:

The museum mooring is in Battlebridge basin, as far as I am aware nothing to do with C&RT. Ring the museum to book.

ah thanks. I see. I checked the web, and as commented, overnight stops only (when the museum is closed) With the longest stay being from 16:30 on Sunday till 10:00 on Tuesday.

Not sure I can make it work due to the 10am departure and my working hours. Looks like a great place to stop though.

[Jonny P]

3 hours ago, fer said:

Hello all,
Great start of the trip. Shared Buckby and Stoke Bruerne locks with a great friendly bunch in a hire boat. Got soaked both inside Blisworth tunnel and outside of it. And merrily made my way to Leighton Buzzard where a free space at Linslade visitor moorings was waiting for me. 7 days mooring, perfect.
Even shared part of the trip with a friendly duck!

 

Thank you, hopefully Watford should be fine then, nice place to stop?  I work from the boat, so not planning on leaving the boat unattended unless to go out walking, pub meal, shopping etc. No first time boater, but first time in London.

 

Thanks a lot. Booking sounds the way to go. At least on my way into London. Then, as you say, I can risk it on my way back, when I get a feeling about the place. Thanks for the recommendation about Rembrandt Gardens. Are the King Cross Museum moorings the Eco-Mooring Treaty St ones in CART web? Moorings are on the pricy side but hey ho, it is London after all.

 

Fantastic. Great to hear how other boaters tackled the same trip. Seems that stopping for one week in London and then heading to the Lee and Stort is the way to go. Did you find the rivers easy to navigate? are there moorings opportunities for more than overnight stops? 

 

Thanks all for your replies.

 

The Lee Navigation is essentially a big canal at the London end. It’s independent of the river (which is called the Lea). 

[Slim]

On 05/06/2025 at 11:52, Tim Lewis said:

you will be luck to get a mooring around Camden!

Won't find it easy around Watford either.😱

[David Mack]

6 minutes ago, Slim said:

Won't find it easy around Watford either.😱

I had no trouble finding a space near Cassio Bridge a couple of weeks ago.

[fer]

Well... I'm liking this trip very much so far. What a nice canal, very scenic, very wide, nice easy locks. What's not to like.

 

Leighton Buzzard was quite pleasant. Having a Tesco, Aldi and Waitrose within five minutes meant no much excuse to try the local restaurants. I did venture to the Turkish though, which thought was quite good with way too generous portions.

 

Moving forward, I noticed the lack of hire boats (only saw one this whole weekend). Caught my attention having to leave one bottom gate paddle up in most locks, mostly because it meant they were against me!  And that even if most boats are on pins, they are very, very well tied up.

Loads and loads of weeds in Marsworth, had to go three times down the weed hatch. Berkhamsted looked fantastic and lively. I definitely shall stop there if I come this way again. And blimey, apart from in Stratford-upon-Avon, I never had so many people watching me going through a lock like today at Iron Bridge Lock. Mind you, that the lock took incredibly long to fill up, meant that more and more people were stopping by

 

On 08/06/2025 at 21:23, Jonny P said:

The Lee Navigation is essentially a big canal at the London end. It’s independent of the river (which is called the Lea). 

Indeed, thank you. Caught with other boaters I met at locks and all highly recommended making my way to both Bishop's Stortford and Hertford. One said that I better stop in Ware, since it is nicer and easier to moor there, which sounded like sensible advice.

 

On 09/06/2025 at 09:24, David Mack said:

I had no trouble finding a space near Cassio Bridge a couple of weeks ago.

Thanks for the tip. It was rather busy before Cassio Bridge lock, but plenty of mooring opportunities between Cassio Bridge and Common Moor.

[beerbeerbeerbeerbeer]

24 minutes ago, fer said:

Well... I'm liking this trip very much so far. What a nice canal, very scenic, very wide, nice easy locks. What's not to like.

good stuff,

glad you’re enjoying it,

 

a lot of places and stuff has been covered but I’ll add two places,

 

directly above Denham Lock (87) is a peaceful spot with a pleasant walk to the village pub and corner shops

 

and Dobb’s weir on the Lea is beautiful, 

 

I rushed my trip there and back and missed lots off stuff so I’ll be interested in getting some stop over suggestions from yourself when you’re done 👍 

 

 

 

 

[fer]

Hey, made my way to London. 
All comments spot on! thanks

 

On 15/06/2025 at 18:08, beerbeerbeerbeerbeer said:

I rushed my trip there and back and missed lots off stuff so I’ll be interested in getting some stop over suggestions from yourself when you’re done 👍 

More than an specific spot, It's the wide canal, clear waters, and interesting boats, that I liked. The mix of towns and countryside. The very tall trees. It felt like a river at times. 
For example, this is before Cassio Bridge Lock. A place like many others, which felt rather nice. 

 

I remember Grove Park looked good. Opposite to golf course. And regretted not stopping in Berkhamsted. 
It feels like I was up there many months ago, because places are starting to fade, or can't place them in the map anymore

Anyhow, carrying on... 
Mooring at Watford was great, but as towns go, I thought pretty boring, so moved to Rickmansworth. Glad I did, a much nicer place to walk and explore. Both places had a very lively canal community, with good vibes, which contributed to the good feeling. It is true that it is very busy with boats, but still a few moorings available here and there. Later I discovered they have tube station, which may well explain why they are so popular. 
As soon as I left Rickmansworth I was back in the countryside. Plenty of moorings in the middle of nowhere. Boats congregating around locks and bridges. Then, If I recall correctly, after Denham all boats disappeared! just a few dotted here and there. I found this a bit puzzling since the canal looked quite alright. I remember passing West Drayton train station and expecting loads of boats there. No boats.
After Bulls Bride, the Birmingham main line type of vibes start. Boring and lifeless. A place I just wanted to leave behind. There were some boats gathering here and there, but none felt like the type of mooring for a visitor. I saw the Black Horse at Greenford which gave me mixed feelings. And Willow Tree Park, which I had thought promising, was not very inviting, with some boats spreading their contents all over the place and mess left behind. Then suddenly, Kensal! Saw a couple of moorings on the first mile, then chock-a-block, and no chance. 
 
I stayed a couple of days in Little Venice pre-bookable moorings, and a couple in Paddington. Both very interesting. Expect boats to breast in Little Venice, as it can get quite busy.  Paddington was calmer, apart from the insane wind! And I very much enjoyed the open space and sight of high illuminated modern buildings above me. You don't get in many other places. By the way, moorings by Station, Pontoons and end of arm, are all pre-bookable mooring now. I didn't see any free VM there.
I had booked Rembrandt Gardens initially, but my occasional boating companion has reduced mobility, and the path shelf and uneven ground would have been a bit of a struggle. Wish CRT gave better information about these moorings. 

 
Moving on. Into the Regents canal. 
Turns out most of the towpath is concreted with no rings/bollards. The few and afar opportunities through central London are taken by double moored boats. There was a spot before Camden, but being 62foot and not knowing the etiquette for breasting against two small boats, I gave it a pass. I didn't spot any other opportunity after that. Kings Cross pre-bookable moorings looked good, I may stop there on my way back. As in the grand union, Locks are fun and gentle so no problem for a singlehandler. You soon will get an audience and mess it up while loads of phones are pointing at you! Everybody is super curious and affable.  

Saw a mooring in Victoria Park, but as soon as I approached to double moor, a guy came out of the boat shouting all types of excuses why I shouldn't, so carried on to Mile End Park, where i moored. Nice place.

 

Plan for next weekend was to go to Limehouse,  and then up the Lee Navigation, but having walked that stretch today, I wonder if I should give it a pass. It had interesting bits that I would like to do with the boat, and the bow back sounds interesting, but Limehouse cut was rather grim and barren. ah, and loads of weed. Must be my boat, but I have been down the weed hatch every single day.. more than once!

Then up to Hertford, but with the Ware Boat Festival being that weekend, I wonder if mooring will be a struggle. Anybody there already? Does it get very busy?

 

[beerbeerbeerbeerbeer]

Great write up 👍

cheers,

good to hear positive stuff.

 

if you haven’t already, see if you can push your way onto a mooring at Hackney Wick and hang about for awhile,

it’s quite an experience to see what’s going on there,

if you’ve not been into Limehouse then I reckon you shouldn’t miss the chance too see it while you’re in the area. 
 

yes, Bow back sounds interesting and I wish I’d done a bit of research before hand regards exploring it. 
Maybe when I go down next year fingers crossed 🤞 

 

 

[Phoenix_V]

it

10 hours ago, fer said:

Then up to Hertford, but with the Ware Boat Festival being that weekend, I wonder if mooring will be a struggle. Anybody there already? Does it get very busy?

The lower Lee has a certain character which is not to everyone's taste but persevere it really does get better. its busy all the way to Hertford but there are spaces to moor away from the train stations, pot luck actually getting one of the limited moorings in Hertford but worth it to say you have reached the terminus should be space in Ware on the outskirts away from the festival (or they might take a late booking to join the festival). If you have come all this way do visit the Stort, one of the prettiest  rivers and usually lots of space in Bishops Stortford.

[MartinC]

On 08/06/2025 at 20:28, fer said:

ah thanks. I see. I checked the web, and as commented, overnight stops only (when the museum is closed) With the longest stay being from 16:30 on Sunday till 10:00 on Tuesday.

Not sure I can make it work due to the 10am departure and my working hours. Looks like a great place to stop though.

When I last used the mooring at the museum I met one of the "organisers" of the residential moorings in the Basin. He said that they do temporary moorings when residents taken their boats "on holiday". Sorry I no longer have his mobile number but might be woirth checking.